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Many times on this site , I've seen members / visitors asking for help concerning an electrical issue /starting problem , but they cannot supply the informatin that is needed for electrical diagnosis.
I can see no reason ........ ( at some very cheap prices ) someone cannot have this basic tool . I've included a few examples and a brief tutorial on this essential item.

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter

Sears.com

Sears.com



If someone knows how to copy this post into each engine forum OR its proper forum PLEASE do so .... might make life a little easier for all members/visitors, Thanks .... Boobala

Boobala said:

Many times on this site , I've seen members / visitors asking for help concerning an electrical issue /starting problem , but they cannot supply the informatin that is needed for electrical diagnosis.
I can see no reason ........ ( at some very cheap prices ) someone cannot have this basic tool . I've included a few examples and a brief tutorial on this essential item.

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter

Sears.com

Sears.com

View attachment 25782

If someone knows how to copy this post into each engine forum OR its proper forum PLEASE do so .... might make life a little easier for all members/visitors, Thanks .... Boobala

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Just to be the Devils advocate,
I find getting some one who is not familiar with DMM's to give me any meaning full information next to impossible.
Numbers get people very confused and in most cases are totally insignificant the exception being alternator out put testing.
In reallity a simple test lamp works better and is less confusing because in most cases we simply need to know if there is continuity or voltage and both can be done better with a piece of wire a globe & a clip.

Thanks Boobala

I've known licensed electricians that wouldn't touch DC systems because they didn't understand them.:laughing:

Another thing I've found is poor instruction being conveyed from those that can do to those that can't do and don't understand. An example is: On the meter there are 2 leads but those that don't understand need to know EXACTLY where to place those 2 leads and that information is often lacking.

bertsmobile1 said:

Just to be the Devils advocate, I find getting some one who is not familiar with DMM's to give me any meaning full information next to impossible. Numbers get people very confused and in most cases are totally insignificant the exception being alternator out put testing. In reallity a simple test lamp works better and is less confusing because in most cases we simply need to know if there is continuity or voltage and both can be done better with a piece of wire a globe & a clip.

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I agree with you.
A simple test light works just fine.

I see it a lot on here. Complicating testing safety switches. It is not that complicated of a system.

People that come here asking for help. Want to hear from someone like them that has done it.
They don't want to go out and buy special tools they will never need again. Because there really is no special tool that you need.

Carscw said:

I agree with you.
A simple test light works just fine.

I see it a lot on here. Complicating testing safety switches. It is not that complicated of a system.

People that come here asking for help. Want to hear from someone like them that has done it.
They don't want to go out and buy special tools they will never need again. Because there really is no special tool that you need.

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Not quite right.
My take out electrical tools consist of a colortune, in line spark tester, test lamp , analog volt meter ( old car tune up dwell meter ) and a hand full of jumpers with a variety of terminals on them.
I used to have a 2" DVM which was handy as it sat in the tool box but no clip means you need 4 hands to use it and being auto ranging it jumped all over the place making it difficult to use.
While cleaning out some shelves to make room for another truck load of close down stock I cam across it & was going to toss it out.
Then when the Gremlins had hidden th big DVM I grabbed it and found it worked a whole lot better so now when I am at trash treasure sales I keep an eye out for old analogue meters.

Just done a big job on a JD LT155 which caused me to buy the manual.
In their 498 pages they never give a number, except for testing the current draw of the starter and output of the generator.
All the other tests which we do daily simply say "Continuity" or " Battery Voltage".
Numbers just confuse people.

Good on 'ya boobala for suggesting. My take on this forum is that is "can be" educational for some so why not expose people to new ideas. Even if only 10% benefit it is worthwhile.

A major barrier is the language used in electronics. To me it is like the "latin" used by lawyers which scares people into spending $millions they could have saved if they just had the English translation and the system was not rigged so much (no , I do not want to eliminate the law, and there are some fine lawyers:laughing BUT, in electronics, the "strange" language is necessary . Yep OHMS LAW.. You have probably seen it expressed many time in little formulas. If you have not tuned out yet read on.

The face of the DMM (digital multi meter) also known as the DVM (digital volt meter) and its sister the "analog meter" is plastered with candy store variety of abbreviations and options you can select in your troubleshooting. Anyone interested enough to pursue more information should consult any beginning "electronics for dummies" book (no offense) or tutorials on line. I have looked at them and interested parties CAN learn this stuff. Test lights are good, but you will be greatly satisfied if you spend some time on DC (direct current ) theory. Usually there are simple test questions to help you . Armed with your newly acquired test meter you will be an ELECTRONICS WARRIOR next time your lawn mower needs help. Stop being put off when people say "voltage," "current," "resistance," (as in corrosion). These words will help , not confuse you!!

Not argueing with you as such,
But how many times do you see things here like I only have 11.62 V at the solenoid or the coil resistance is 6.375 Ω and the book says it should be 6.2 Ω.
For people who know it is not a problem but for a lot of others they just can;t get their head around that it could be any where between 5 Ω & 7 Ω and the fact that they are doing the reading through a rusty contact which might alter the numerical value takes a lot of explaining.
These are lawn mowers not space shuttles so a simple globe, light on = good, light off = bad is some thing most can grasp.
Explaining why the solenoid trigger has 10.72 V but still works when it should be 12 just makes a confused owner even more confused.
Remember the KISS principle.

I find the only problem with a test light is most will light at 8 volts , some even less, at least a DMM will read the true voltage of the battery ...... knowing I have a GOOD battery saves a lot of headaches. If I have suspected wiring or switch promblems I " jumper " right from the battery to the starter , of course thats AFTER checking oil, fuel and spark plug for spark . My DMM has a continuity beeper ( very handy ) and has been really helpful in many cases especially when checking a wire end to end ( can't do that with a test light unless you have voltage present ) . But I'm not here to "try" anybodys knowledge or skills ......... I simply want to help others ..... AND ESPECIALLY ..... the MEMBERS OF THIS SITE , who are trying to help all those that are seeking answers.
The tutorial in my original post covers the basic operation of a DMM , BUT then it does start getting into the "SCARY " part for most novices Actually .... voltage & continuity are about all I use that meter for , come to think of it !! Anyway ...... GENTLE - men ..... ya'll have a FANTASTIC day ...... Boobala .......:2cents:

By the way folks , check the prices on those DMM's in my original post , so ya do without a few beers , better to have the tool and not need it , than sit there wishing you DID have it , it's NOT a bank breaker and most people can get one easily .

I've never used one in small engine repair but I own two. Very handy for auto repair and home wiring work. Would love to own a Fluke but I can't justify the expense :thumbsup:
Trying to track down a parasitic draw on my truck when I have a spare moment. DVOM is definitely a handy tool.

When I am trouble shooting a electrical problem the very first thing I use is a test light. I say always start on the small fast things first. Then if I have get any deeper into the repairs I bring out the DVM and a wiring diagram. A test light and DVM both has its place and don't under estimate what you can do with a test light.

Boobala said:

I find the only problem with a test light is most will light at 8 volts , some even less, at least a DMM will read the true voltage of the battery ...... knowing I have a GOOD battery saves a lot of headaches. If I have suspected wiring or switch promblems I " jumper " right from the battery to the starter , of course thats AFTER checking oil, fuel and spark plug for spark . My DMM has a continuity beeper ( very handy ) and has been really helpful in many cases especially when checking a wire end to end ( can't do that with a test light unless you have voltage present ) . But I'm not here to "try" anybodys knowledge or skills ......... I simply want to help others ..... AND ESPECIALLY ..... the MEMBERS OF THIS SITE , who are trying to help all those that are seeking answers.
The tutorial in my original post covers the basic operation of a DMM , BUT then it does start getting into the "SCARY " part for most novices Actually .... voltage & continuity are about all I use that meter for , come to think of it !! Anyway ...... GENTLE - men ..... ya'll have a FANTASTIC day ...... Boobala .......:2cents:

By the way folks , check the prices on those DMM's in my original post , so ya do without a few beers , better to have the tool and not need it , than sit there wishing you DID have it , it's NOT a bank breaker and most people can get one easily .

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yeah,
Some times you do need to know the vactual voltages but for at least 75% of the enquires we get here a yes/no is more appropriate as the owner is oft not mechanically literate which is why they are here in the first place.

And then the phrase "high impedance" is brought up with DMMs!!!!:confused2:
One guy asked me what a high impudent multi-meter was!!! :mur:
I wanted to say that it was a meter that misbehaved too often, but I didn't want to insult him!!:laughing:

Mackie. Like I said the high Latin such as "impedance" etc is very frightening to novices. So they should stay with DC (direct current ) to start, That means ignore the setting on the DVM which say AC and has the little squiggle sign . Electricians use some different instruments than tractor mecanics, like the clamp on (lobster claw) current meters. Novices , don't look at the forest , just the tree in front of you to start.:smile:

Used to you could get by with just a test light. Now with EFI and electronic control modules used in safety systems etc. you do need a good digital meter. Even a good laptop in some cases. I taught small engine mechanics part time for 20 years and some students would show up in class with new $300 Flukes without any knowledge about what the meters would do. And some of the instruction books that came with the meters seemed to be written by rocket scientist. When it came to electrical, we always tried to teach the "why" part first and it seemed to make the "how" part a little easier to understand for the students. It takes a little practice in diagnosing electrical problems. Your not going to learn to play a violin by reading a few paragraphs. Some of the posts on here simply want to know "what color wire goes where". That might be easy for someone who is familiar with that particular equipment. But for the rest of us, it takes a little thinking and a little practice.

cashman, Well said. For instance many probably wonder why the current measurement is different from voltage. Answer after a little reading, "current" moves, voltage is a kind of pressure point measurement. Also good point on those with EFI (electronic fuel injection) where the trouble shooting guides will put out some voltage values to look for at certain connectors, and like Berts has told us , getting a current reading on a PTO to see if it is ok . By the way a Fluke is great , but for home use you can get by with a $25-$35 DMV and it may even have temperature probes thrown in (Harbor Freight has a couple units which get good reviews, even by pros) I do not endorse all the HF stuff and do not own stock.:laughing:

You can get a simple VOM free at Harbor Freight occasionally with a coupon and often with any purchase. A VOM across the posts of a battery with engine running will tell you if alternator is working properly while a test light won't. I virtually never use a test light anymore.

Walt Conner

Re getting readings that vary a little from a value in a factory manual..such slightly different results will be understood after a little experience. Nothing is absolute just as in everyday life. Also a little motivator for those without the DVM. Although I suggested not to worry about the AC part of the DVM switch settings you can use that setting to check household electrical outlets by placing a the ground probe tip (black) on the metal base and the other into the bayonette connector contacts. So the DVMs have more than one use. On the continuity setting (ohms-beep sound) you can check out a suspect switch by wiggling the contact lever or simply observing an "open" where you expect "continuity." An internally corroded battery cable: Should have almost no "resistance"... check it with the ohm setting. On and on. As stated you do not have to spend over $35 for a decent DVM. I have used the freebies H Frt has and they might be enough to get a newbie started (even though they lack decent current measurement range.)