Cub Cadet ZT2 goes slow in forward

tbmmbt

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does yours have a separate throttle control and choke? If so is the throttle lever all the way forward and the choke off? The manual implies some have these controls and some do not.
Yes I have the throttle control and set it to 75% +- of full throttle when running with the choke knob pushed in after starting.
 

bertsmobile1

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Bad thing to do
Throttle must always be at 100%
Running a hydro at less than full speed will do damage to the drive & pump plus not allow the mower to reach full speed .
So try running flat chat and see if your forward speed increases
The speed control simply opens a valve further to allow more oil to pass through
However if there is not enough oil pressure this can not happen
It also facilitates damage to the valve plate & cylinder block by allowing more oil to bypass the passageways & leak out the sides .
 

tbmmbt

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Apr 5, 2022
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Bad thing to do
Throttle must always be at 100%
Running a hydro at less than full speed will do damage to the drive & pump plus not allow the mower to reach full speed .
So try running flat chat and see if your forward speed increases
The speed control simply opens a valve further to allow more oil to pass through
However if there is not enough oil pressure this can not happen
It also facilitates damage to the valve plate & cylinder block by allowing more oil to bypass the passageways & leak out the sides .
Ok. Next time I get the mower out I will push the lever to full and mower that way and see if there is an improvement. Thanks a lot.
 

tbmmbt

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Apr 5, 2022
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Bad thing to do
Throttle must always be at 100%
Running a hydro at less than full speed will do damage to the drive & pump plus not allow the mower to reach full speed .
So try running flat chat and see if your forward speed increases
The speed control simply opens a valve further to allow more oil to pass through
However if there is not enough oil pressure this can not happen
It also facilitates damage to the valve plate & cylinder block by allowing more oil to bypass the passageways & leak out the sides .
Decided to just take the mower to a dealer close to the house and go ahead and get the first oil change done since it has 14 hours on it even though the dealer said 10 is the time to do it and let them go over the mower and make sure everything is the way it needs to be. From then on I will change the oil every 50 hours and when the hours are the right time for the hydros will change that oil and the filters as well. Was told 100 hours on the hydros for the first time and then 200 from then. Does that sound about right?
 

bertsmobile1

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About that
The time of the season is more important than the number of hours
And the number of hours for both engine & hydro are very very conservative
I advise all my customers to change the oil at the end of every season immediatly after their last mow .
Thus over winter when corrosion will happen & sludges form the engine is siting there with a belly full of fresh clean oil
As for the hydros similar story
Clean the hydro thouroughly on the second last mow of the season so when you do the change you can clean it quickly so the oil remains hot
Change the hydro oil every leap year ( so you remember to do it )
 

tbmmbt

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Joined
Apr 5, 2022
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About that
The time of the season is more important than the number of hours
And the number of hours for both engine & hydro are very very conservative
I advise all my customers to change the oil at the end of every season immediatly after their last mow .
Thus over winter when corrosion will happen & sludges form the engine is siting there with a belly full of fresh clean oil
As for the hydros similar story
Clean the hydro thouroughly on the second last mow of the season so when you do the change you can clean it quickly so the oil remains hot
Change the hydro oil every leap year ( so you remember to do it )
I know this will open a can of worms, but what would be the oil I should use (name and grade) for an oil change. The last time I change the hydro oil in my other mower I used Mobil 15w-50 as I couldn't find the 20w-50 anywhere around where I live.
 

StarTech

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Dino oil used is SAE20W50 or you can use Full Synthetic 15W50.
 

captchas

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i have the same machine, my OM reads 10w30 or 10w40 for air temps of minus 4 to plus 90 F , while not necessary due to where i live has air temps reaching above 100F in the summer , i use Kawasaki KTECK 10w40 oil as it still has zinc in it that helps reduce wear in the engine
throttle wise i personally have had the cable slip under the clamp on the engine sevaeral times from my own over gellus pushing of the lever and found both stop bolts ,stopping the lap levers set to far in limiting the forward movement slowing the machine in forward
 

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captchas

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PS
what is important is the oil meeting the api service specs of sf/sg/sh/sj/sl
 
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