Cub Cadet LT1040 CVT Drive Belt

ILENGINE

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
41
Messages
10,622
With how the belt is now, when i push the accelerator it feels like Im pushing the break, the belts get decently tight
There is also this belt guide bolt Im worried about too
The belt to the right seems ok but the one on the left seems like it would rub badly
attachment.php

With tension on the belt it shouldn't make contact with the bolt but will be real close and the bolt may show some signs of contact causing a polished appearance.
 

Jmac1976

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
9
Maybe the guide bolt doesnt matter lol
See the groove on my old belt?
Thats right where the head of the guide bolt would have went
A1DB7B2A-9543-42E3-A880-B286BC53DDAD.jpg
 

Jmac1976

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
9
With tension on the belt it shouldn't make contact with the bolt but will be real close and the bolt may show some signs of contact causing a polished appearance.
Yeah i saw a shiny spot on it and then looked at the old belt
Alright so maybe i had it right all along and my sleepless night was all for nought lol
Im giving it a go ??
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,968
The first run as has been previously stated was correct.
If the belt guide bolt head rubs on the belt, get a longer bolt.
There should have been 3 of them all the same length.
Occasionally you get a belt that runs a bit lower for some reason I have never bothered to work out.
Nothing special about the belt guide and when the belt touches it there is no tension in the belt so it should just slide over it.
On the Troy Bilt I just finished that bolt got replaced with a longer one.
I used 2 pieces of tube, one inner for the bolt to tighten up against and a second outer that was loose for the belt to rub against.
Double check that the drive pulley is fully home against the PTO shaft.

And just checking, are they genuine Cub belts you are running ?
They look a bit like standard 5/8" belts and not the original L profile belts.
 

Jmac1976

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
9
Not sure about the actual Cub Cadet belt. Its an MTD belt which I thought made CC now.
I thought id get it started but I killed the battery from not starting it for so long and my charger just isnt doing it. The battery is 8 years old though so thats not bad at all
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,968
Not sure about the actual Cub Cadet belt. Its an MTD belt which I thought made CC now.
I thought id get it started but I killed the battery from not starting it for so long and my charger just isnt doing it. The battery is 8 years old though so thats not bad at all

That's fine ,if it has the same part number it will be fine the Troy Bilts run the same belts.
The one I just finished had been running standard B section belts which had done a lot of damage.
The DPO had fitted a guide on the drive side of the belt, an idler to the under side of the rear belt tensioning arm , cut off the keeper around the variable pulley and bent the 3 keepers around the engine pulley back so far they broke when I tried to restore them to the propper position all to accomodate the different shape belt .
All this because the original belt was $ 175 and a std B belt is $ 55 It also meant that they could not use the the slowest or fastest positions cause one of the belts bottomed out on the variable speed pulley which meant they had to replace the belts almost every season.
 

Jmac1976

Forum Newbie
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
9
Got new battery in today and things worked great. I appreciate the help everyone.
Now if I can just figure out why the right side doesnt cut how its supposed to
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,968
The discharge side cops a beating.
Usually that is the first blade to wear out, the first bearing to go & the pulley that wears out the soonest.
 
Top