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Ok Ive looked everywhere. I need to find an image or video of how the drive belt is supposed to be positioned on my lawn mower
Cub Cadet LT1040 CVT
Model 13AX10CG709
I got the new belt at tractor supply.
Got the part number from the cub cadet page 754-0467
I have the belt positioned on the back and front pully correctly its just in between there where i get confused especially under the steering plate since i cant see behind it
One way i tried when i pushed on the accelerator it just stayed down no tension
Tried the other way and it felt like I was pressing down on the brake
Neither time was the mower running though
Also the old one just broke off so my only help is looking for wear marks on the metal and that only helps some

From your picture the belt looks correct. While looking under the mower move the go pedal with your hand and see if the belt tensions up correctly and isn't rubbing anything that could cause belt damage. Also those belts should always be replaced in pairs since the two belts need to sync to work correctly. Wear on one belt will cause the other belt to not work correctly.

With how the belt is now, when i push the accelerator it feels like Im pushing the break, the belts get decently tight
There is also this belt guide bolt Im worried about too
The belt to the right seems ok but the one on the left seems like it would rub badly

The belt looks like it should go on the other side of the pulleys just opposite of what you have them. Also look to see if you have a spring that maybe missing.

https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/Cub-Cadet-LT1040-Manual

Down load this for everything you need to know about your mower
Tom

Thanks for the parts diagram guys, I do have them though. It looks like its just the mirror opposite of the way its supposed to go
If i put the belt that doesnt go through the pulleys to the left side theres all sorts of springs in the way
So the picture they give isnt exactly my scenario for some reason
By the way the transmission belt and blade belt have been replaced, hence why this one finally snapped. But it was old too

Luffydog said:

The belt looks like it should go on the other side of the pulleys just opposite of what you have them. Also look to see if you have a spring that maybe missing.

Click to expand...

Im wondering if i have a spring connected wrong
This is how i have it now and it looks to be safe from the bolt guide
Just the pedal doesnt come back up when i push it down and it loses all tension on the belt
First picture is pushing pedal, second one is not pushing the pedal

The way you had the belt in your first post is correct, your last post the belt is reversed on the pulleys. the belt normally splits that bolt that you have in one of the pictures. one side of the belt on each side.

ILENGINE said:

The way you had the belt in your first post is correct, your last post the belt is reversed on the pulleys. the belt normally splits that bolt that you have in one of the pictures. one side of the belt on each side.

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Makes more sense the first way i had it, just worried about the head of that guide bolt

Also either way i put the belt on the pulleys the guide bolt splits the belt

Jmac1976 said:

With how the belt is now, when i push the accelerator it feels like Im pushing the break, the belts get decently tight
There is also this belt guide bolt Im worried about too
The belt to the right seems ok but the one on the left seems like it would rub badly

Click to expand...

With tension on the belt it shouldn't make contact with the bolt but will be real close and the bolt may show some signs of contact causing a polished appearance.

Maybe the guide bolt doesnt matter lol
See the groove on my old belt?
Thats right where the head of the guide bolt would have went

ILENGINE said:

With tension on the belt it shouldn't make contact with the bolt but will be real close and the bolt may show some signs of contact causing a polished appearance.

Click to expand...

Yeah i saw a shiny spot on it and then looked at the old belt
Alright so maybe i had it right all along and my sleepless night was all for nought lol
Im giving it a go ??

The first run as has been previously stated was correct.
If the belt guide bolt head rubs on the belt, get a longer bolt.
There should have been 3 of them all the same length.
Occasionally you get a belt that runs a bit lower for some reason I have never bothered to work out.
Nothing special about the belt guide and when the belt touches it there is no tension in the belt so it should just slide over it.
On the Troy Bilt I just finished that bolt got replaced with a longer one.
I used 2 pieces of tube, one inner for the bolt to tighten up against and a second outer that was loose for the belt to rub against.
Double check that the drive pulley is fully home against the PTO shaft.

And just checking, are they genuine Cub belts you are running ?
They look a bit like standard 5/8" belts and not the original L profile belts.

Not sure about the actual Cub Cadet belt. Its an MTD belt which I thought made CC now.
I thought id get it started but I killed the battery from not starting it for so long and my charger just isnt doing it. The battery is 8 years old though so thats not bad at all

Jmac1976 said:

Not sure about the actual Cub Cadet belt. Its an MTD belt which I thought made CC now.
I thought id get it started but I killed the battery from not starting it for so long and my charger just isnt doing it. The battery is 8 years old though so thats not bad at all

Click to expand...

That's fine ,if it has the same part number it will be fine the Troy Bilts run the same belts.
The one I just finished had been running standard B section belts which had done a lot of damage.
The DPO had fitted a guide on the drive side of the belt, an idler to the under side of the rear belt tensioning arm , cut off the keeper around the variable pulley and bent the 3 keepers around the engine pulley back so far they broke when I tried to restore them to the propper position all to accomodate the different shape belt .
All this because the original belt was $ 175 and a std B belt is $ 55 It also meant that they could not use the the slowest or fastest positions cause one of the belts bottomed out on the variable speed pulley which meant they had to replace the belts almost every season.

Got new battery in today and things worked great. I appreciate the help everyone.
Now if I can just figure out why the right side doesnt cut how its supposed to

The discharge side cops a beating.
Usually that is the first blade to wear out, the first bearing to go & the pulley that wears out the soonest.