Cub Cadet GT3200 Rideon Mower (Lawn Tractor)

bertsmobile1

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They code out as A 36 & 3/8" ( aust ) or A 38 & 3/8 US..
and 954-3084 appears to be the right part according to my parts list as well.
However for the belt to be the correct size according to the book all 3 pulleys need to be the correct size according to the book
Now if you are 100% sure that the PTO is set up properly & working properly then just grab some shorter belts
If you still have the old ones measure the outside of the belt for the Aust belt size.
Kevlar belts do not stretch and pollyester ones actually get shorter .
Otherwise get 40" of 1/2 rope and run it around the pulleys, PTO off , mark where the 2 ends meet then add 1" to it.

Always a problem with used mowers, you can not trust anything on there is std.
The engine pulley is a variable one consisting of 3 Sides with spacers between to change the pulley size and thus the gearing ratio.
So check that there are no spacers between the sides on the engine shaft which would have the effect of making the pulley a smaller diameter.
 

magnum308

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Jan 22, 2017
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It's been a while, winter here, so not much activity for lawn mowing. Plus we've had a really dry spell for the last few months, so no growth in the lawn. Well with almost 100mls (about 4") in the last 10-15 days and sunshine between the lawn is now green and needed a mow. Since my last post I have fitted, with the help of a friend, a new deck belt and just today a new deck fixed idler pulley too.

I had started mowing the lawn with my little Cub (LT1018 18hp B&S 42") but a front deck wheel bracket came loose and will need re-welding.

So I took the GT 3200 (54') out for the rest of the mow, around half (about 1 1/2 hours). Everything went well but the "power" steering is woeful. heavy as anything and tends to stick on a full and half lock and needs to be dragged back. It was like an hour at the gym compared to the LT1018 (direct steering). Any clues what's the matter?
 

magnum308

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Update on this. My lightning fast mind alerted me to the sticking, particularly on full lock, might be due to the mechanical element of the steering rather that the hydraulics. On checking the manual I see there are greasing points on the L&R knuckles. Since the mower hasn't been used for close to 2 years I decided to give them some grease, first of all cleaning well around the nipples. Well they each took at least 4 (perhaps 5) very generous pumps of my grease gun before grease appeared to be oozing out of the top of the knuckle. So I took the mower for a "spin" using half and full locks. Sticking problem solved. Power steering is still heavy, heavier than a car, and needs to be pulled back from the lock but much easier than before. It doesn't return automatically like that of a car.

Also the manual said to grease the "front pivot axle" but couldn't find the greasing point for this. So any assistance would be appreciated.
 

bertsmobile1

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The front cross member pivots on a bolt through a bush
If you get under the machine you will see the grease nipple tucked away inside a hole
 
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