Craftsman LT 2000 41” trans. drive belt

ILENGINE

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Correct. It bolts both under the pulley and to the frame, but beyond that, it is bent to overlap from above so isn’t clear to drop the axle even if unbolted. Should I cut it with angle grinder? I could weld it back together.

You should be able to remove the two bolts to the bracket on the left frame rail. the 4 bolts to the axles and the two bolts on the front transaxle support bracket and it should come down. May not even have to completely remove the transaxle, just need enough wiggle room to work the belts off and back on.
 

Billybuck

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You should be able to remove the two bolts to the bracket on the left frame rail. the 4 bolts to the axles and the two bolts on the front transaxle support bracket and it should come down. May not even have to completely remove the transaxle, just need enough wiggle room to work the belts off and back on.
It appears to me this bracket turns 90 degrees and is sandwiched and through bolted from under the base of the vari pulley. Maybe my eyes deceive me?
 

ILENGINE

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The bracket turns 90 degrees and there are three bolts that hold the variable pulley bearing assembly to the bracket, but it also bolts to the left side of the frame. Should be two 3/8 headed bolts on the left frame.
 

Billybuck

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The bracket turns 90 degrees and there are three bolts that hold the variable pulley bearing assembly to the bracket, but it also bolts to the left side of the frame. Should be two 3/8 headed bolts on the left frame.
Right, so 5 bolts to free bracket and 6 to free axle. Riddle me this: if the 3 bolts to the variable pulley are removed, does that free that pulley to remove the belt, and if so, and I can get the flange bolt off the large pulley, then I would not need to drop the axle?
 

ILENGINE

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Seems like the last one I worked on removing the three bolts still doesn't allow any pulley movement. Seems like something holds the pulley bearing in place preventing movement And i remembered why I had to remove the transmission to remove the variable bracket. The bracket has to be slide down the axle shaft toward the wheel because it sandwiches itself against the top of the tranny for stability.
 

Billybuck

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Seems like the last one I worked on removing the three bolts still doesn't allow any pulley movement. Seems like something holds the pulley bearing in place preventing movement And i remembered why I had to remove the transmission to remove the variable bracket. The bracket has to be slide down the axle shaft toward the wheel because it sandwiches itself against the top of the tranny for stability.
I see. Thank you for your input on this. You’ve been very helpful and I appreciate it. Time to turn some wrenches.
 

Billybuck

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The belt is off. It was easier than expected. For anyone doing this down the road.
1) unfasten the spring to the belt idler pulley arm from the frame (hint: reattach with a 3" loop of chord using a screw driver to protect your hands while stretching the spring)
2 ) remove the idler pulley from the arm freeing the belt.
2) remove the 3 screws securing the variable pulley housing from below just over the axle. This provides adequate movement of the variable pulley to free the belt.
3) release the rear deck suspension arms from the mower deck. (these connect to brackets under the seat held in place by the cross shaft blocking access to the large 7/8 belt pulley flange nut.
3) jack the left rear tire off the ground, block up the axle, and remove the tire. (this step may not be essential as the cross shaft only has to move an inch or so to be freed where I had anticipated having to slide it out completely, and I was able to drive it the inch needed with the tire in place on the right side of the tractor)
4) remove the E clips retaining the cross shaft and, using a punch, knock the cross shaft from the right side to left of the tractor until it clears the frame. Easier if the plastic bushings are removed at each end as soon as practicable. The assembly can now be moved forward to access the large pulley nut
5) the large pulley shaft has flat sides beneath the pulley. Place an adjustable wrench across the flats and block it (I laid it against the idler pulley arm)
6) remove the large pulley nut and you are done. The nut is 7/8. I used a large Tractor ratchet with 10" extension. It came loose easily so might have gotten away with a box end.

Took a little over an hour and would have been half that knowing the above going in.
 
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