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247.288841 LT2000

Anyone ever replaced the short 41” spring tensioned v belt to transmission on one of these mowers? The current belt is worn/stretched causing the long ground drive belt to ride against the spring loaded tensioner arm which carries the pulley for this belt. This belt is trapped on the pulleys over the transmission with insufficient room against the frame walls under the seat for removal. Thanks.

Welcome to world of MTD. This one is a pain to change the secondary belt on. First you remove the spring on the tensioner idler pulley. If you are lucky you can remove the transmission pulley nut (most time its access is blocked by an cross shaft); otherwise, you need take the four transaxle mounting bolt out and partially drop it out and tilted to the left side. And then there is the sliding sleeve pulley that need to be partially removed so the belt clears the belt retainers. Sometimes this just simply done by removing the retaining bolt and flat washer provided that its pivot shaft is not stuck in the bearings; otherwise, it is removal of the three bolts holding the bearing housing place so you can move the pulley around and get the belt off and on.

BTW it best to go ahead and replace both belts at the same time or you get to do again later.

I

StarTech said:

Welcome to world of MTD. This one is a pain to change the secondary belt on. First you remove the spring on the tensioner idler pulley. If you are lucky you can remove the transmission pulley nut (most time its access is blocked by an cross shaft); otherwise, you need take the four transaxle mounting bolt out and partially drop it out and tilted to the left side. And then there is the sliding sleeve pulley that need to be partially removed so the belt clears the belt retainers. Sometimes this just simply done by removing the retaining bolt and flat washer provided that its pivot shaft is not stuck in the bearings; otherwise, it is removal of the three bolts holding the bearing housing place so you can move the pulley around and get the belt off and on.

BTW it best to go ahead and replace both belts at the same time or you get to do again later.

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I was afraid this would be the case. Couple questions: 1) What’s the best way to immobilize the transmission pulley to take a shot at its retaining nut? 2) there appears to be a bracket/arm which hooks under the transaxle which would prevent the transmission from dropping even if the 4 bolts are removed? 3) my sliding sleeve pulley appears to be retained by a spring clip? Definitely not a “bolt”. Pic off the bracket holding the axle:

I have used a small rod, screwdriver to put through one of the holes in the pulley and lock it from turning. Also that is a bracket that hooks under the axle,which holds the variable pulley in place and you will not be able to get the pulley out without totally dropping the transmission. just not enough wiggle room to clear the other items. Seems also part of the bracket also bolts to the side of the frame.

That's a new one on me as I haven't ran into that design yet so I got to get up to speed this one too. And IL said it be a couple or more bolts on the left side frame. Boy I hate it when a manufacture throws us a curve ball.

Looking at an image of that bracket, looks once the side bolts are remove it would rotate rearwards for removal. PN 683-04612-0637.

StarTech said:

Looking at an image of that bracket, looks once the side bolts are remove it would rotate rearwards for removal. PN 683-04612-0637.

View attachment 51493View attachment 51494

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That was my thought the first time I worked on one, but it won't clear the frame to get it out without removing the complete transaxle.

Ahhh thanks for the info. As I said I haven't ran into this design yet but knowing my luck I will tomorrow just to show me it can.

Looks like the OP has his work cut out for him on this project.

I already got a fun project of my own of removing an engine from Ariens 34 Zoom. It probably take most of the morning just to get the front bolts out. My first 793880 cam with nearly completely worn down exhaust lobe, normally it is ACRs that causes to replace these cams.

ILENGINE said:

I have used a small rod, screwdriver to put through one of the holes in the pulley and lock it from turning. Also that is a bracket that hooks under the axle,which holds the variable pulley in place and you will not be able to get the pulley out without totally dropping the transmission. just not enough wiggle room to clear the other items. Seems also part of the bracket also bolts to the side of the frame.

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Correct. It bolts both under the pulley and to the frame, but beyond that, it is bent to overlap from above so isn’t clear to drop the axle even if unbolted. Should I cut it with angle grinder? I could weld it back together.

StarTech said:

Looking at an image of that bracket, looks once the side bolts are remove it would rotate rearwards for removal. PN 683-04612-0637.

View attachment 51493View attachment 51494

Click to expand...

That is a different bracket than what’s on mine.

StarTech said:

That's a new one on me as I haven't ran into that design yet so I got to get up to speed this one too. And IL said it be a couple or more bolts on the left side frame. Boy I hate it when a manufacture throws us a curve ball.

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It’s a bigger problem than a couple more bolts as I elaborate in a subsequent reply.

Billybuck said:

Correct. It bolts both under the pulley and to the frame, but beyond that, it is bent to overlap from above so isn’t clear to drop the axle even if unbolted. Should I cut it with angle grinder? I could weld it back together.

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You should be able to remove the two bolts to the bracket on the left frame rail. the 4 bolts to the axles and the two bolts on the front transaxle support bracket and it should come down. May not even have to completely remove the transaxle, just need enough wiggle room to work the belts off and back on.

ILENGINE said:

You should be able to remove the two bolts to the bracket on the left frame rail. the 4 bolts to the axles and the two bolts on the front transaxle support bracket and it should come down. May not even have to completely remove the transaxle, just need enough wiggle room to work the belts off and back on.

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It appears to me this bracket turns 90 degrees and is sandwiched and through bolted from under the base of the vari pulley. Maybe my eyes deceive me?

The bracket turns 90 degrees and there are three bolts that hold the variable pulley bearing assembly to the bracket, but it also bolts to the left side of the frame. Should be two 3/8 headed bolts on the left frame.

ILENGINE said:

The bracket turns 90 degrees and there are three bolts that hold the variable pulley bearing assembly to the bracket, but it also bolts to the left side of the frame. Should be two 3/8 headed bolts on the left frame.

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Right, so 5 bolts to free bracket and 6 to free axle. Riddle me this: if the 3 bolts to the variable pulley are removed, does that free that pulley to remove the belt, and if so, and I can get the flange bolt off the large pulley, then I would not need to drop the axle?

Seems like the last one I worked on removing the three bolts still doesn't allow any pulley movement. Seems like something holds the pulley bearing in place preventing movement And i remembered why I had to remove the transmission to remove the variable bracket. The bracket has to be slide down the axle shaft toward the wheel because it sandwiches itself against the top of the tranny for stability.

ILENGINE said:

Seems like the last one I worked on removing the three bolts still doesn't allow any pulley movement. Seems like something holds the pulley bearing in place preventing movement And i remembered why I had to remove the transmission to remove the variable bracket. The bracket has to be slide down the axle shaft toward the wheel because it sandwiches itself against the top of the tranny for stability.

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I see. Thank you for your input on this. You’ve been very helpful and I appreciate it. Time to turn some wrenches.

The belt is off. It was easier than expected. For anyone doing this down the road.
1) unfasten the spring to the belt idler pulley arm from the frame (hint: reattach with a 3" loop of chord using a screw driver to protect your hands while stretching the spring)
2 ) remove the idler pulley from the arm freeing the belt.
2) remove the 3 screws securing the variable pulley housing from below just over the axle. This provides adequate movement of the variable pulley to free the belt.
3) release the rear deck suspension arms from the mower deck. (these connect to brackets under the seat held in place by the cross shaft blocking access to the large 7/8 belt pulley flange nut.
3) jack the left rear tire off the ground, block up the axle, and remove the tire. (this step may not be essential as the cross shaft only has to move an inch or so to be freed where I had anticipated having to slide it out completely, and I was able to drive it the inch needed with the tire in place on the right side of the tractor)
4) remove the E clips retaining the cross shaft and, using a punch, knock the cross shaft from the right side to left of the tractor until it clears the frame. Easier if the plastic bushings are removed at each end as soon as practicable. The assembly can now be moved forward to access the large pulley nut
5) the large pulley shaft has flat sides beneath the pulley. Place an adjustable wrench across the flats and block it (I laid it against the idler pulley arm)
6) remove the large pulley nut and you are done. The nut is 7/8. I used a large Tractor ratchet with 10" extension. It came loose easily so might have gotten away with a box end.

Took a little over an hour and would have been half that knowing the above going in.