Craftsman 917.370430 won't start

[PopIggy]

Hi all,
I am working on this mower and she won't start.
Cleaned carb with brushes and wire it is definitely getting fuel.
New air filter. Drained fuel tank and using new fuel.
Plug measures 15000 ohms which is good and light tester
lights when cord pulled. Sometimes pull cord kicks back and
sometimes there is a small back fire through the carb.
Checked flywheel shear pin and looks great.
Any other ideas?
Many Thanks in Advance.
PopIggy

 

[upupandaway]

"Sometimes pull cord kicks back" Sounds like your flywheel sheared the key.

 

[PopIggy]

"Sometimes pull cord kicks back" Sounds like your flywheel sheared the key.

No the key is perfect.
Thanks though.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Pop ,
You have been looking at too many bad You Tube videos
A bit of background would be helpful
Owned since new ?
fond on the curb ?
Bought "reconditioned "

I for one would start with a new fresh spark plug because they are cheap
The important resistance on a spark plug is the one the air gap makes at cylinder pressure.
Modern fuel vapour is conductive at cylinder pressure so if the engine does not fire a few times then the centre electrode gets damp and the sparks tack down the side of the insulator, rather than jumping the spark gap .

 

[slomo]

Checked flywheel shear pin and looks great.

You need to pull the key out and look at it all over. Retorque the flywheel nut to factory specs. Several times we get the same report, key looks good. Later on they remove the key and find it's messed up.

 

[slomo]

sometimes there is a small back fire through the carb.

Ignition timing issue. Check the FW key.

 

[PopIggy]

Pop ,
You have been looking at too many bad You Tube videos
A bit of background would be helpful
Owned since new ?
fond on the curb ?
Bought "reconditioned "

I for one would start with a new fresh spark plug because they are cheap
The important resistance on a spark plug is the one the air gap makes at cylinder pressure.
Modern fuel vapour is conductive at cylinder pressure so if the engine does not fire a few times then the centre electrode gets damp and the sparks tack down the side of the insulator, rather than jumping the spark gap .

Pop ,
You have been looking at too many bad You Tube videos
A bit of background would be helpful
Owned since new ?
fond on the curb ?
Bought "reconditioned "

I for one would start with a new fresh spark plug because they are cheap
The important resistance on a spark plug is the one the air gap makes at cylinder pressure.
Modern fuel vapour is conductive at cylinder pressure so if the engine does not fire a few times then the centre electrode gets damp and the sparks tack down the side of the insulator, rather than jumping the spark gap .

Believe the year is 2011
Neighboor owed it since new.

 

[PopIggy]

I will put now plug in tomorrow. Then I will pull flywheel and inspect shear pin key.
Many Thanks to everyone.

 

[Rivets]

Being 10+ years old I’m thinking you have a fuel issue. When you cleaned the carb, did you check the float level? I’m thinking the float needle seat may have swollen, causing a severely lean condition.

 

[PopIggy]

Being 10+ years old I’m thinking you have a fuel issue. When you cleaned the carb, did you check the float level? I’m thinking the float needle seat may have swollen, causing a severely lean condition.

Float and needle are preforming as they should.