couple of Turf Tiger questions

[Mad Mackie]

Hi Sonders,
I just went out and looked at my machine and there are no flat spots on the long rods, the flats are on the short rod that adjusts for height.
The left forward and right forward bellcranks are connected together by a tube that is under the machine. The right hand belcrank has the foot pedal mounted on it. The suspension chains are connected to these bellcranks and to the forward deck lift points. The long rods attach to these bellcranks and go back to the rear bellcranks which are independent from each other. The rear bellcranks have the rear suspension chains attached to them and connect to the rear deck lift points. The rear bellcranks are the only adjustment point. If the front of your deck is too high, then you need to adjust the long rods to lift the rear of the deck. After the deck is leveled, then you can adjust the short rod to match the blade height to the indexing on the height adjusting matrix. After you are happy with your adjustments, I recommend that you tighten both of the nuts on the rods against the swivel. This will prevent the rods from turning from vibration and letting the deck get out of adjustment again!!!!
I've got four machines in my shop each with a different deck!!!
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[Mad Mackie]

More deck adjustment info.
While you adjust the long rods to lift the rear of the deck to level it, check the tension in the chains to make sure that all four are holding equal load. Just push the chains sideways and you will feel the tension and or difference. If either of the front chains has less tension, then adjust the diagonal opposite rear.
When you get to the point where you are happy with the adjustments, lift the deck with the foot pedal and let it lock in the up position. Look at the long rods to see if they are both lifting their share. If one has a slight bow and the other doesn't, the bowed rod is lifting too much and the other rod needs to be adjusted.
I gotta do some billing so I can get paid!!!!!:thumbsup:
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[Sonders]

great info there Mad Mackie. Yes, sounds like you need to start charging a consulting fee. I really appreciate you taking the time to go out and check your's to verify and get back to me. Now I just need enough free time later this week to actually get it done before it's time to mow this weekend.

 

[Sonders]

Thought I would add this pic just for reference. This is the right side adjustment cranked all the way out. On a side note, I also backed the jam nuts off on the cutter height and tried cranking that bar, but it wouldn't budge, so I ended up taking the bolt off that connects it to the foot pedal and cranking the end link to shorten it some. It is going to need to be shortened quite a bit. I definitely agree with you Mad Mackie that it's going to take a few hours to get it right.

 

[djdicetn]

great info there Mad Mackie. Yes, sounds like you need to start charging a consulting fee. I really appreciate you taking the time to go out and check your's to verify and get back to me. Now I just need enough free time later this week to actually get it done before it's time to mow this weekend.

Mad Mackie/Sonders,

I don't mean to hijack your thread as I understand the importance of getting your deck adjusted properly!!! BUT, an observation I have made as I read through this thread.......could Sonder's discovery in the original post that the deck was "higher in the front" instead of the conventional(and customary) "lower in front" deck leveling be because the previous owner "intentionally" performed what I understand is referred to as "heeling the deck" when he leveled that deck???????
Even my Gravely manual mentions that sometimes a better cut can be achieved by having the front blade tips 1/4" higher that the rear blade tips(and mentions this being called "heeling the deck").....but of couse the 1" inch pitch difference Sonders found is quite "excessive" based upon simply reversing the "normal 1/4 inch pitch"!! The Gravely manual also states that this deck pitch requires more engine power than the regular front pitch leveling but another thing I'm curious about is whether simply because the rear edge of the deck is lower than the front.......would this not have an additional "side effect" of producing a "striper effect" without a striper kit(bending the remaining grass blades slightly with the deck edge)????? What are your opinions and thoughts on my observation????????

 

[Mad Mackie]

I have chatted with folks all around the country on this subject and there are many different opinions. Some makes of machines lend themselves better to varied pitch angles. The grass type and area are major reasons for changing pitch angle of the blades but some machines cannot handle the increase in power needed to operate with a lower pitch in the rear. On some machines the blade pitch has to do with better clipping evacuation from the deck.
When on these forums, I try to keep my comments to go along with what is recommended in the operators manuals unless I have found some info that is conflicting to safe and reasonable operation and I will contact the machine manufacturer, if they are still in business, and keep my comments brief and specific to machine or series.
The operators manual for my Tiger Cub recommends level blades fore and aft and check the actual blade height and adjust the height adjuster to match. My Ingersoll machines deck manuals recommend level to no more than 1/8" lower with blade forward and in no way lower in the rear.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[djdicetn]

I have chatted with folks all around the country on this subject and there are many different opinions. Some makes of machines lend themselves better to varied pitch angles. The grass type and area are major reasons for changing pitch angle of the blades but some machines cannot handle the increase in power needed to operate with a lower pitch in the rear. On some machines the blade pitch has to do with better clipping evacuation from the deck.
When on these forums, I try to keep my comments to go along with what is recommended in the operators manuals unless I have found some info that is conflicting to safe and reasonable operation and I will contact the machine manufacturer, if they are still in business, and keep my comments brief and specific to machine or series.
The operators manual for my Tiger Cub recommends level blades fore and aft and check the actual blade height and adjust the height adjuster to match. My Ingersoll machines deck manuals recommend level to no more than 1/8" lower with blade forward and in no way lower in the rear.
Mad Mackie in CT

I understand....the manufacturer is always the best source for the correct setup for their machines!! I was just wondering if that's what the previous owner of user Sonder's Turf Tiger had done(intentionally heeled the deck). I probably should just start a thread in the General Mower Questions forum and get some feedback(of course, since my Gravely manual mentioned heeling the deck......not neccessarily "recommended" it, I became curious and want to know more about it). Your right, there's probably a lot of things you need to consider(Mfg recommendations as highest priority) when considering altering the pitch of your deck.

 

[Sonders]

I asked the guy I bought the mower from about the deck being pitched up like it was and he acted surprised, like he had no idea it was like that. So no help there. I'm with you djdicetn, You'd think that with it healed it would stripe better but I can't get it to stripe at all. Disappointed with the cut so far actually. I messed with the dang thing for a couple of hrs yesterday and got it level. Every time I'd try to go for the 1/4" pitch down it would get screwed way up and would have to start over. Got very frustrated a few times an had to walk away. At the moment I've settled for level haha. I'll mess with it over the winter again. I'll report back after I mow this weekend and letcha know how it mows now.

 

[Sonders]

Ok, mowed earlier and the cut is a little better with a stripe; just not a very visible well defined stripe. I think it will look a little better after a few more cuts. New problem I ran into while mowing however was the mower started to sputter like it was going to die, so I would stop and let it rev back up and it would mow for a minute or two then start cutting out again. Turned the pto off and headed down the street back to my house and it was still doing it, so I'm going to rule out pto related. My first guess is the fuel filter, so gonna look for a new one tomorrow. Hopefully thats all it is.

Also, another question for you guys. Mower was slightly low on hydraulic oil and manual calls for 20w30. All I had was 15w40 so I added just a little bit to top it off. Will tha be alright or do I need to get the right stuff and change it out?

 

[Mad Mackie]

Hi Sonders,
What engine is on your machine? EFI or carb? You may need some carb cleaner or injector cleaner. Check all engine filters!!! I use Sea Foam fuel additive, available at auto parts stores or Walmart.
As for deck leveling these basics pertain to the vast majority of Scag ZTRs.
Inflate all tires to the specs in the operators manual.
Place the machine on a flat and level floor.
Put the deck height adjustment in mid range say 3".
Release the deck up lock.
Turn both outboard blades so they face forward and aft. You may need another person to do this.
Measure the blade height fore and aft, record same.
The deck has no adjustment on the forward bellcranks.
The rear deck height can be adjusted up or down by turning the long rods.
Adjust these rods equally on both sides to raise or lower the rear of the deck so the blade height of the rear facing blade matches the height of the forward facing blade.
Check both outboard blades and adjust each rod to level side to side.
Without turning the rods, tighten both of the forward nuts against the forward swivel.
Recheck blade height.
Later model machines have a small adjustment on the left forward deck suspension chain. This is to make a fine adjustment so all suspension chains have equal tension.
Pushing on the chains and observing the amount of deflection will indicate if more adjustment is needed.
Measure the actual blade height, readjust the deck height rod so the actual blade height matches the setting of the height adjustment.
Push the deck pedal down to lock the deck in the up position and check for clearance between the top of the deck and to up limit stops. Should be about 1/4" but not tight up against the stops.
I can hear the bats flying around outside eating mosquitos!!! An no I don't have a belfry!!!! HaHa!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile: