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Just bought a new to me Turf Tiger, 61A-29ka-dfi model. The front caster wheels are different on it; the left is flat free tire, and right is regular air tire. I have the right tire aired to 26 psi like manual says. While mowing the left wheel spins around like crazy, and when driving it up the street to mow another lot in my subdivision it gets a real bad wobble from the same tire. Is this normal? Or should I assume the bearings in that wheel are toast even though the guy I bought it from assured me he just replaced them before I took delivery of it? A buddy told me that it's the difference of the two tires; the flat free tire is heavier throwing it off a little. Next issue is trying to get this thing to stripe. Not much of a stripe at the moment. Just put new high lift blades on before last cut and still no luck. I measured the deck and it appears it is level from side to side, but front is 1" higher than rear. Just read through the manual and it calls for deck to be 1/4" lower in front. So guess I need to figure out adjustment on deck supports and get it lowered in front and should be good to go? The guy I bought it from said to mow a few weeks in the same pattern on 3" and will get perfect stripe. However I don't like mowing that low, I usually mow at 4". Any input is greatly appreciated. This is my very first Scag, so not really sure what to expect; only going by all the contractors I've seen around that has them so must be great mowers.

Hi Sonders,
Either one of the front wheels has to go so they are the same before you do deck leveling, your call!! I like inflatable tires, but just my opinion!!! How many hours on this machine??
If you need manuals you can download them from the Scag website. You will need the model and serial number of your machine to get the correct manuals. Kawasaki engine manuals are on the Kawasaki site.
If you have a Scag striping kit, the manual is also at the Scag site.
As the machine travels forward in normal operation, the clockwise advancing blades cut the grass and this is the reason for the deck to be adjusted so the blades are 1/4" lower in the front. Scag deck adjustments must be followed in a sequence per the manual. After the deck is leveled side to side and setup for 1/4" lower in the front, then the blade height can be adjusted to the calibration of the height adjuster with the deck lift linkage.
It took me 3 hours to readjust the deck on my Scag Tiger Cub!!! Do the adjustments on a level floor!!!
Mad Mackie in CT

Ah crap, didn't think about changing out wheels first. I started messing with the deck earlier tonight. I could only get it completely level; as I was trying to get the front to come down the extra 1/4" but the back of the deck is against the deck stop bars. So guess I better get the wheel situation lined out before doing anything further to the deck. Been trying to get some of the contractors I know with Scags to swap me one of their old air tires for the solid one. Figured they'd be happier with it so they wouldn't have to worry about a flat. No takers yet though.

I was just looking in the manual for my Tiger Cub and it says the blades should be level side to side and forward and aft.
Check the tire pressures in all tires before leveling the deck. My other machines are set with the blade forward and down 1/8". Not sure what you mean by deck stop bars.

You could measure the height of the front wheels from the level floor to see if they are the same or close so you could continue to do the deck leveling adjustments. There is a long bolt thru the front wheels holding them in the forks.

I did measure before starting.
The deck was level from side to side,
But was 1" higher in front then back. Reading through manual it says to angle deck down 1/4" in front. I assume I'm doing it right; manual is kinda vague. I loosened the front jam nut on the front of the deck lift arms,
Then turned the nut behind it counterclockwise. I was able to get it level, but that was it. Top of rear portion of deck is against deck stop bars. So now I need to read up on adjusting cutting height. I do remember reading that their is supposed to be 1/4" space between the deck and the stop bars, so gonna have to figure that out too.

Sounds like you have the deck in the up and locked position, unlock it and drop it down to a lower position, say at the 4" mark. Download the manuals for later models of the Turf Tiger and possibly the deck adjustment procedures are more understandable. when I did my final height adjustment I measured the actual blade clearance/height from a level floor and adjusted the lift link turnbuckle to match the index to the actual blade height.
Mad Mackie in CT

I guess I'm showing my stupidity here, but I must not be understanding how to properly adjust the deck with the adjusting bars. Below is pic of my mower kinda zoomed in on the left side deck portion.

When I was trying to adjust it to lower front pitch down. I loosened the jamb nut on very front of adjuster bar, then put my wrench on the nut that is right behind that just to the right in pic and turned it counterclockwise. I didn't get a whole lot of movement out of it. I looked at some other threads online and even my manual is pointing to a adjuster in the rear. There is nothing on the back of mine but open threads of the bar. Am I missing something?

Hi Sonders,
The long rod has R/H thread forward and L/H thread aft. This rod has two flat spots ground into it just passed the 2nd forward nut so you can put a wrench on it and turn it. This is the same on the other side of the machine. The forward nut on both sides is tightened against swivel joint to stop the rod from turning. When the rod is turned in one direction, the rod shortens, and lengthens when turned the opposite way, changing the deck height on the one side either up or down. To do a forward /aft adjustment you may need to support the deck on blocks in all four corners, drop the deck onto the blocks and remove the cotter pins from the forward swivels and adjust them separately, to drop the front height.
The hanger chain on the left front looks like it has been changed, and if it has, I would measure the links to make sure that they match all the other chains. All the chains must match in order to get a correct deck adjustment.
This is why I spent 3-4 hours leveling my Scag deck last year!!! I still feel that my deck was not correctly setup at the factory, but it is correct now!!!
Have fun!!!
Mad Mackie in CT

Took another look at the mower tonight. Have no flat spots on the long rods to be able to turn them; only the secondary nut, which only allows me to turn the bar so far before the nut itself begins to turn on the threads. So apparently the rods have been replaced? I took cutting height stop pin out and set deck all the way on floor and backed the rods way off. Only thing they are moving is the rear lift arms; backed them off to where there was slack in rear chains, but front chains were still tight. Only thing I saw to do to take pressure off front chains as well was to loosen jam nuts on cutting height rod and adjust it in some. So once I realized I wasn't getting anywhere, I gave up for the night. I'm so stumped on this dang thing.

Hi Sonders,
I just went out and looked at my machine and there are no flat spots on the long rods, the flats are on the short rod that adjusts for height.
The left forward and right forward bellcranks are connected together by a tube that is under the machine. The right hand belcrank has the foot pedal mounted on it. The suspension chains are connected to these bellcranks and to the forward deck lift points. The long rods attach to these bellcranks and go back to the rear bellcranks which are independent from each other. The rear bellcranks have the rear suspension chains attached to them and connect to the rear deck lift points. The rear bellcranks are the only adjustment point. If the front of your deck is too high, then you need to adjust the long rods to lift the rear of the deck. After the deck is leveled, then you can adjust the short rod to match the blade height to the indexing on the height adjusting matrix. After you are happy with your adjustments, I recommend that you tighten both of the nuts on the rods against the swivel. This will prevent the rods from turning from vibration and letting the deck get out of adjustment again!!!!
I've got four machines in my shop each with a different deck!!!
Mad Mackie in CT

More deck adjustment info.
While you adjust the long rods to lift the rear of the deck to level it, check the tension in the chains to make sure that all four are holding equal load. Just push the chains sideways and you will feel the tension and or difference. If either of the front chains has less tension, then adjust the diagonal opposite rear.
When you get to the point where you are happy with the adjustments, lift the deck with the foot pedal and let it lock in the up position. Look at the long rods to see if they are both lifting their share. If one has a slight bow and the other doesn't, the bowed rod is lifting too much and the other rod needs to be adjusted.
I gotta do some billing so I can get paid!!!!!:thumbsup:
Later
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

great info there Mad Mackie. Yes, sounds like you need to start charging a consulting fee. I really appreciate you taking the time to go out and check your's to verify and get back to me. Now I just need enough free time later this week to actually get it done before it's time to mow this weekend.

Thought I would add this pic just for reference. This is the right side adjustment cranked all the way out. On a side note, I also backed the jam nuts off on the cutter height and tried cranking that bar, but it wouldn't budge, so I ended up taking the bolt off that connects it to the foot pedal and cranking the end link to shorten it some. It is going to need to be shortened quite a bit. I definitely agree with you Mad Mackie that it's going to take a few hours to get it right.

Sonders said:

great info there Mad Mackie. Yes, sounds like you need to start charging a consulting fee. I really appreciate you taking the time to go out and check your's to verify and get back to me. Now I just need enough free time later this week to actually get it done before it's time to mow this weekend.

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Mad Mackie/Sonders,

I don't mean to hijack your thread as I understand the importance of getting your deck adjusted properly!!! BUT, an observation I have made as I read through this thread.......could Sonder's discovery in the original post that the deck was "higher in the front" instead of the conventional(and customary) "lower in front" deck leveling be because the previous owner "intentionally" performed what I understand is referred to as "heeling the deck" when he leveled that deck???????
Even my Gravely manual mentions that sometimes a better cut can be achieved by having the front blade tips 1/4" higher that the rear blade tips(and mentions this being called "heeling the deck").....but of couse the 1" inch pitch difference Sonders found is quite "excessive" based upon simply reversing the "normal 1/4 inch pitch"!! The Gravely manual also states that this deck pitch requires more engine power than the regular front pitch leveling but another thing I'm curious about is whether simply because the rear edge of the deck is lower than the front.......would this not have an additional "side effect" of producing a "striper effect" without a striper kit(bending the remaining grass blades slightly with the deck edge)????? What are your opinions and thoughts on my observation????????

I have chatted with folks all around the country on this subject and there are many different opinions. Some makes of machines lend themselves better to varied pitch angles. The grass type and area are major reasons for changing pitch angle of the blades but some machines cannot handle the increase in power needed to operate with a lower pitch in the rear. On some machines the blade pitch has to do with better clipping evacuation from the deck.
When on these forums, I try to keep my comments to go along with what is recommended in the operators manuals unless I have found some info that is conflicting to safe and reasonable operation and I will contact the machine manufacturer, if they are still in business, and keep my comments brief and specific to machine or series.
The operators manual for my Tiger Cub recommends level blades fore and aft and check the actual blade height and adjust the height adjuster to match. My Ingersoll machines deck manuals recommend level to no more than 1/8" lower with blade forward and in no way lower in the rear.
Mad Mackie in CT

Mad Mackie said:

I have chatted with folks all around the country on this subject and there are many different opinions. Some makes of machines lend themselves better to varied pitch angles. The grass type and area are major reasons for changing pitch angle of the blades but some machines cannot handle the increase in power needed to operate with a lower pitch in the rear. On some machines the blade pitch has to do with better clipping evacuation from the deck.
When on these forums, I try to keep my comments to go along with what is recommended in the operators manuals unless I have found some info that is conflicting to safe and reasonable operation and I will contact the machine manufacturer, if they are still in business, and keep my comments brief and specific to machine or series.
The operators manual for my Tiger Cub recommends level blades fore and aft and check the actual blade height and adjust the height adjuster to match. My Ingersoll machines deck manuals recommend level to no more than 1/8" lower with blade forward and in no way lower in the rear.
Mad Mackie in CT

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I understand....the manufacturer is always the best source for the correct setup for their machines!! I was just wondering if that's what the previous owner of user Sonder's Turf Tiger had done(intentionally heeled the deck). I probably should just start a thread in the General Mower Questions forum and get some feedback(of course, since my Gravely manual mentioned heeling the deck......not neccessarily "recommended" it, I became curious and want to know more about it). Your right, there's probably a lot of things you need to consider(Mfg recommendations as highest priority) when considering altering the pitch of your deck.

I asked the guy I bought the mower from about the deck being pitched up like it was and he acted surprised, like he had no idea it was like that. So no help there. I'm with you djdicetn, You'd think that with it healed it would stripe better but I can't get it to stripe at all. Disappointed with the cut so far actually. I messed with the dang thing for a couple of hrs yesterday and got it level. Every time I'd try to go for the 1/4" pitch down it would get screwed way up and would have to start over. Got very frustrated a few times an had to walk away. At the moment I've settled for level haha. I'll mess with it over the winter again. I'll report back after I mow this weekend and letcha know how it mows now.

Ok, mowed earlier and the cut is a little better with a stripe; just not a very visible well defined stripe. I think it will look a little better after a few more cuts. New problem I ran into while mowing however was the mower started to sputter like it was going to die, so I would stop and let it rev back up and it would mow for a minute or two then start cutting out again. Turned the pto off and headed down the street back to my house and it was still doing it, so I'm going to rule out pto related. My first guess is the fuel filter, so gonna look for a new one tomorrow. Hopefully thats all it is.

Also, another question for you guys. Mower was slightly low on hydraulic oil and manual calls for 20w30. All I had was 15w40 so I added just a little bit to top it off. Will tha be alright or do I need to get the right stuff and change it out?

Hi Sonders,
What engine is on your machine? EFI or carb? You may need some carb cleaner or injector cleaner. Check all engine filters!!! I use Sea Foam fuel additive, available at auto parts stores or Walmart.
As for deck leveling these basics pertain to the vast majority of Scag ZTRs.
Inflate all tires to the specs in the operators manual.
Place the machine on a flat and level floor.
Put the deck height adjustment in mid range say 3".
Release the deck up lock.
Turn both outboard blades so they face forward and aft. You may need another person to do this.
Measure the blade height fore and aft, record same.
The deck has no adjustment on the forward bellcranks.
The rear deck height can be adjusted up or down by turning the long rods.
Adjust these rods equally on both sides to raise or lower the rear of the deck so the blade height of the rear facing blade matches the height of the forward facing blade.
Check both outboard blades and adjust each rod to level side to side.
Without turning the rods, tighten both of the forward nuts against the forward swivel.
Recheck blade height.
Later model machines have a small adjustment on the left forward deck suspension chain. This is to make a fine adjustment so all suspension chains have equal tension.
Pushing on the chains and observing the amount of deflection will indicate if more adjustment is needed.
Measure the actual blade height, readjust the deck height rod so the actual blade height matches the setting of the height adjustment.
Push the deck pedal down to lock the deck in the up position and check for clearance between the top of the deck and to up limit stops. Should be about 1/4" but not tight up against the stops.
I can hear the bats flying around outside eating mosquitos!!! An no I don't have a belfry!!!! HaHa!!!!
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Sonders said:

Ok, mowed earlier and the cut is a little better with a stripe; just not a very visible well defined stripe. I think it will look a little better after a few more cuts. New problem I ran into while mowing however was the mower started to sputter like it was going to die, so I would stop and let it rev back up and it would mow for a minute or two then start cutting out again. Turned the pto off and headed down the street back to my house and it was still doing it, so I'm going to rule out pto related. My first guess is the fuel filter, so gonna look for a new one tomorrow. Hopefully thats all it is.

Also, another question for you guys. Mower was slightly low on hydraulic oil and manual calls for 20w30. All I had was 15w40 so I added just a little bit to top it off. Will tha be alright or do I need to get the right stuff and change it out?

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Most but not all Scag ZTRs use 20W-50 engine oil in the hydraulic systems. 15W-40 is OK for a small amount.
Check the operators manual for your specific machine.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Mad Mackie said:

Most but not all Scag ZTRs use 20W-50 engine oil in the hydraulic systems. 15W-40 is OK for a small amount.
Check the operators manual for your specific machine.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

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Mine has the 29 hp kawasaki dfi engine. Thanks for that additional deck leveling info! I was trying to adjust the front by taking off the small cotter pin and pullin the turnbuckle off the hanging bracket and turning it on the adjuster rod. In theory it seemed like it would work but it just threw everything out of whach haha; hence the frustration. How are you supposed to actually turn the adjusting rods? I had to get a pipe wrench out to turn them.

As far as the oil, I read in my manual before adding any and it did call for 20w30. Mine was slightly below the sight hole in the filler neck. Also experienced the oil overflow after finished mowing, so apparently that cap has to be tightened down super tight; I thought I did put it on fairly tight but I guess not tight enough??

Read you operators manual, I'll bet that it says 20W50 engine oil for the hydraulic system!
I've never heard of 20W30 engine oil!!!!
As for engine sputtering, the basics are fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and a dose of fuel injector cleaner with a DFI engine. There are electronic fuel system components that can cause sputtering, but a Kawasaki servicing dealer is needed to troubleshoot a DFI engine. DFI engines have a high pressure electric fuel pump that also factors into the engine troubleshooting equation. Fuel cap vents are another factor, but on later models with fuel evaporative systems, things do change.
But for deck level adjustments on Scags, turning the long rods raises or lowers the rear of the deck only!!!!
It is OK to use what tool is necessary to turn the long rods to make these adjustments!!!:banana:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Yea my eyes were probably decieving me; I'm sure it was 20w50. I hadn't seen 20w30 before and was thinking to myself at the time "well hell where am I going to find that oil at". Definitely going to have to take another crack at the deck level to get that pitch down in the front like it's supposed to. At the moment I sure am missing my old Gravely that steiped my yard beautifully and had no issues that I sold to get this mower (can't let the wife know that though).

One day in Aug of 2008 I left the house with 10,000 in my pocket and a comment from my bride that " you already have two red tractors so don't come home with another red one", so I came home with an orange one!!!! It wasn't red so I thought I was good to go!!! Wrong as usual!!!
My instructions to anyone looking at a used machine is to strongly request of the perspective seller to show me how the machine operates! Having been a marine mech on and off over the years I tell folks to have the boat owner launch the boat and make it do it's thing or the offered price drops to one half!!!!
Anyway, you gotta understand that Scag decks only adjust from the rear by turning the long rods!!!! The rear has to be adjusted up or down to match the front, no other options!!!!
I have replaced decks on several Simplicity machines for customers and they are the nastiest when it comes to leveling!!!! So Scags are relatively simple in comparison!!!!:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

A quote from an old mech that I new in the 50s. " I don't know everything, but those that do ask me for advise!":laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Mad Mackie said:

A quote from an old mech that I new in the 50s. " I don't know everything, but those that do ask me for advise!":laughing:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

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Oh I definitely don't know everything. If I can ask somebody that is more knowledgable then I am for sure going to do so to save from tearing something up that could have been avoided.

MadMackie, after reading back through your instructions on deck leveling, I think my main problem is the fact that I have been measuring the edges of the deck itself and not measuring the blades in a forward and aft position. That's probably throwing me off.

Hi Sonders,
Check out the pics. The yellow plastic tool is a John Deere item, but when packaged in a blister pack it gets bent. I took my adjustable temp heat gun and straightened it!!! This JD tool is OK, but you need to see the actual numbers before you remove it from under the deck as it will change by the time you get it out from under the deck. The black mark on the pointer is a mark that I made so I can see it!:thumbdown:
The other tool is what I use about 95% of the time. It is a long nut used to connect threaded rod with a short bolt and jam nut on the top and the bottom bolt is an adjustable foot from a washing machine that I removed the plastic piece from. This adjusts from a closed dimension of 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" approx. With this tool I level the deck by measuring the blade height and then adjust to get a 1/8" lower dimension on the forward facing blade if desired.:thumbsup:
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

Great idea with the measuring tools. Finally got the deck leveled. However it is pretty much right at the up travel stops, but I don't want to mess with it anymore. Got a new fuel filter this evening so need to get it put on tomorrow. The parts manual doesn't have fuel filter listed and I don't have a Scag dealer close by so went to Napa and got one with same size ends; it's a Fram G12. Hopefully it will work alright.

DFI engines have a electric fuel pump to boost fuel pressure for the fuel injectors.
If your deck unlocks OK from the up and locked position, you are probably good to go.
Several weeks ago I was with a group in Northwestern Ohio railfanning and we were in Defiance, OH. I commented to the guys that Indiana wasn't far away, one of the guys had never been to Indiana, so I took him west on OH Rt. 18, across the border and back to Defiance, OH. Now he can say the he has been to Indiana!!! He is partially paralyzed and doesn't get around much, but he has a friend who works for Amtrak and travels a lot for business and he sometimes goes on trips with him.
Mad Mackie in CT

Just thought I'd update for anybody actually following this post. Finally got the deck pitched down like it's supposed to. Ended up cheating and cutting a little bit off of the deck lock handle since I had the deck pitched and leveled right but it was just shy of being able to lock in travel position. It is perfect now and after mowing yesterday, yard striped out beautifully. Also, the deal with the mower cutting out the previous week.......Fuel line was pretty clogged, and some crap in the gas tank. I removed all the fuel line from tank to fuel pump and blew out all the line, then replaced fuel filter. With tank empty stuck a shop vac in there and cleaned out remaining debris in tank. Runs like a completely different mower now that it's getting proper fuel flow haha. Oh the joys of buying used.

Sonders said:

Just thought I'd update for anybody actually following this post. Finally got the deck pitched down like it's supposed to. Ended up cheating and cutting a little bit off of the deck lock handle since I had the deck pitched and leveled right but it was just shy of being able to lock in travel position. It is perfect now and after mowing yesterday, yard striped out beautifully. Also, the deal with the mower cutting out the previous week.......Fuel line was pretty clogged, and some crap in the gas tank. I removed all the fuel line from tank to fuel pump and blew out all the line, then replaced fuel filter. With tank empty stuck a shop vac in there and cleaned out remaining debris in tank. Runs like a completely different mower now that it's getting proper fuel flow haha. Oh the joys of buying used.

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Glad to hear you've got the initial annoying problems corrected. Doesn't sound, though, like you have any "major" problems with that used Turf Tiger. More than likely you'll end up getting more than your money's worth with that Scag(I was dead set on new when I bought and my pockets just weren't quite deep enough to get a Scag, but I know they are top notch equipment). Keep us posted as to how it's doing!! I'm gonna wate until I've got at least two full seasons on my Gravely(around 75-100 hours) before I give a full review on it, So far I love it, but it's only got qbout 31 hours on it.

djdicetn said:

Glad to hear you've got the initial annoying problems corrected. Doesn't sound, though, like you have any "major" problems with that used Turf Tiger. More than likely you'll end up getting more than your money's worth with that Scag(I was dead set on new when I bought and my pockets just weren't quite deep enough to get a Scag, but I know they are top notch equipment). Keep us posted as to how it's doing!! I'm gonna wate until I've got at least two full seasons on my Gravely(around 75-100 hours) before I give a full review on it, So far I love it, but it's only got qbout 31 hours on it.

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I hear ya, there was no way I was going to afford a brand new one. My previous mower was a Gravely zt 52hd that I did buy brand new, but it wasn't near as heavy duty as the TT. I'm liking it a lot better now that it's running and cutting like it should!

Sonders said:

I hear ya, there was no way I was going to afford a brand new one. My previous mower was a Gravely zt 52hd that I did buy brand new, but it wasn't near as heavy duty as the TT. I'm liking it a lot better now that it's running and cutting like it should!

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Did the ZT HD serve you well??? I considered the ZT HD 52, which seemed to be a pretty nice high-end residential for the money, but when I decided for sure that I wanted a more commercial ZTR I moved up to the Pro Turn 100 XDZ 52". I've been real happy with it and for $6,800 out-the-door for a commercial ZTR I figured I did pretty good.

djdicetn said:

Did the ZT HD serve you well??? I considered the ZT HD 52, which seemed to be a pretty nice high-end residential for the money, but when I decided for sure that I wanted a more commercial ZTR I moved up to the Pro Turn 100 XDZ 52". I've been real happy with it and for $6,800 out-the-door for a commercial ZTR I figured I did pretty good.

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Yes, it was a really nice mower. Rode kinda rough, and the smaller rear tires would spin out fairly easy were about the only downsides to it. Other than that it served me well for the past 3 yrs and striped my yard beautifully. Only reason I got the Turf Tiger is because I ended up with a few acres more to mow each week and wanted something bigger to get done faster.

Just thought I'd add a pic of the cut I'm getting now. Looking a lot better.

Sonders said:

Just thought I'd add a pic of the cut I'm getting now. Looking a lot better.

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WOW, that looks great...you should post that in the "Striping, Gotta Love It" thread over in the Landscaping forum!!! I just bought a Gravely mulch kit a couple of weeks ago for my Pro-Turn 152, pitched the deck "level" instead of 1/8" lower in the front and I'm getting a fantastic cut with a "mild" striping effect(but not as good as yours). But this last Saturday I went to my dealer and ordered the Gravely Hex Striper kit(MSRP of $238 and he sold it to me for $199). I'm hoping when I add it I'll get my lawn looking like your picture!!! The thing I like about the Gravely kit is it mounts to the engine shield instead of the rear of the deck and you can engage/dis-engage it for "stripe-on-demand". I really don't want to stripe my back yard(nobody sees it except the birds and squirrels:0)

djdicetn said:

WOW, that looks great...you should post that in the "Striping, Gotta Love It" thread over in the Landscaping forum!!! I just bought a Gravely mulch kit a couple of weeks ago for my Pro-Turn 152, pitched the deck "level" instead of 1/8" lower in the front and I'm getting a fantastic cut with a "mild" striping effect(but not as good as yours). But this last Saturday I went to my dealer and ordered the Gravely Hex Striper kit(MSRP of $238 and he sold it to me for $199). I'm hoping when I add it I'll get my lawn looking like your picture!!! The thing I like about the Gravely kit is it mounts to the engine shield instead of the rear of the deck and you can engage/dis-engage it for "stripe-on-demand". I really don't want to stripe my back yard(nobody sees it except the birds and squirrels:0)

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Thanks man, I'm pretty happy with it now. That stripe kit you are getting sounds pretty sweet; even better the deal you got on it! I was actually in the process of making a stripe kit to mount on the back of my mower, but I don't think I'm going to mess with mounting it now.