Coinhunter
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Brand new air filter/cleaner.
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Constant flooding
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Export threadCoinhunter
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Bought one with the carb. I only run pure gas no ethanol here.Get a Stens 120-444 fuel filter in the line. It acts like dirt continues to invade the float and defeat the needle/seat. Also add Marvels Mystery Oil or 2 cycle oil to the gas. Ethanol is a solvent and makes the float valve stick, a bit of oil in the gas helps lube the needle so that it will seal in. Hope these simple steps help ( That fuel filter is larger and has the surface area while is an 11 micron fine fine filter even stops most water ).
Coinhunter
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When I started this project from Hades, one of the first things I did was remove the fuel tank and make sure it was clean. That is a real pain as this is a zero turn and I have to remove the entire left side of the mower. But to answer your suggestions everyone of them I have completed. I even purchased a new fuel tank to buy fuel in as the handle on my old one split open at the seam.Do you find any particles in the Float bowl? Is the fuel going into the crankcase as well? Drain the fuel tank and save a half cup in a glass container and leave that sit. Remove the Fuel filter if you have one and blow the line back into the tank with Fuel Cap off. Get All the Fuel out of the Tank (Turkey Baster works for this task). With a cloth around a stick try to mop the bottom of the tank so it is clean. Blow out line again with Compressor and re mop. Empty dregs of fuel from your portable tank and never try for the last drop.
Check inside it for 'clean'. Fill tank halfway, install new filter. Your problem has nothing to do with valves.
Good Luck. Don't mess with the float level.
Read post #20 and 23 twice. Then go back nd read post 20 again.
Use a pressure/vacuum tester gauge such as a mityvac. (to test the carb needle/seat and the gas tank venting. (If it's the Nikki clone type single barrel carbs the needle/seat can be ok but internal seals above the plastic can bypass the needle/seat) the mityvac will detect such.
The mityvac will cost less than what you are spending on carb's and parts and you will have it for future testing. (and you can do logical testing with the mityvac instead of just buying parts and hoping for the best)
Look at a mityvac 8500.
Use a pressure/vacuum tester gauge such as a mityvac. (to test the carb needle/seat and the gas tank venting. (If it's the Nikki clone type single barrel carbs the needle/seat can be ok but internal seals above the plastic can bypass the needle/seat) the mityvac will detect such.
The mityvac will cost less than what you are spending on carb's and parts and you will have it for future testing. (and you can do logical testing with the mityvac instead of just buying parts and hoping for the best)
Look at a mityvac 8500.