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Clogging Deck
#1
T
Thuisman
T
Thuisman
I have tried both mulching and bagging and the grass keeps building on the under side of the deck. It gets bad enough that it will fall off the deck and about stall out the mower (grass falls from under side of deck and hits the blades). At times, it gets bad enough that I have to lift the deck and let the grass fall out before I can continue (while mulching). When bagging, it happens often and I end up leaving clumps of grass (not bagged) on the ground throughout the lawn.
I have not tried changing blades as my local dealer tells me I am using the correct blades. This will happen at times when the grass is dry and its 80 outside and happens more often with due on the ground and its 65. I mow twice a week so the grass is not too tall (4 days att he most between mowings).
Any help would be appreciated. Pretty irritating to dump $9k and still have issues.
Tharin
I have not tried changing blades as my local dealer tells me I am using the correct blades. This will happen at times when the grass is dry and its 80 outside and happens more often with due on the ground and its 65. I mow twice a week so the grass is not too tall (4 days att he most between mowings).
Any help would be appreciated. Pretty irritating to dump $9k and still have issues.
Tharin
#2
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
WELCOME to these Forums....
The Easiest thing you can do to try for a better result... Change the blades, Don't know what type you are running now But I would definitely try something radically different. :smile:KennyV
The Easiest thing you can do to try for a better result... Change the blades, Don't know what type you are running now But I would definitely try something radically different. :smile:KennyV
#3
Ric
It could be any number of things or a combination of things, Mowing speed could be to fast, removing to much grass at one time, dull blades. I know you said the dealer says you're using the correct blades but changing to another type could make a big difference. If your trying to discharge or bag I would think you would want to use high lift blades, if you're trying to mulch and cut your grass finer Gator Blades are a good choice.
Another thing is the fact you never cut dry grass at any time as its consistency is like 70 to 80% water to start with so you'll always have a certain amount of moisture under the deck and mowing early in the morning with the due still on the ground will only compound the problem. If the grass is clumping the first thing I would try is to slow your speed down and let the mower do its job because it sounds like your accumulating to much grass under the deck and it's losing it capability or can't discharge the grass properly.
Ric
I have tried both mulching and bagging and the grass keeps building on the under side of the deck. It gets bad enough that it will fall off the deck and about stall out the mower (grass falls from under side of deck and hits the blades). At times, it gets bad enough that I have to lift the deck and let the grass fall out before I can continue (while mulching). When bagging, it happens often and I end up leaving clumps of grass (not bagged) on the ground throughout the lawn.
I have not tried changing blades as my local dealer tells me I am using the correct blades. This will happen at times when the grass is dry and its 80 outside and happens more often with due on the ground and its 65. I mow twice a week so the grass is not too tall (4 days att he most between mowings).
Any help would be appreciated. Pretty irritating to dump $9k and still have issues.
Tharin
It could be any number of things or a combination of things, Mowing speed could be to fast, removing to much grass at one time, dull blades. I know you said the dealer says you're using the correct blades but changing to another type could make a big difference. If your trying to discharge or bag I would think you would want to use high lift blades, if you're trying to mulch and cut your grass finer Gator Blades are a good choice.
Another thing is the fact you never cut dry grass at any time as its consistency is like 70 to 80% water to start with so you'll always have a certain amount of moisture under the deck and mowing early in the morning with the due still on the ground will only compound the problem. If the grass is clumping the first thing I would try is to slow your speed down and let the mower do its job because it sounds like your accumulating to much grass under the deck and it's losing it capability or can't discharge the grass properly.
#4
Carscw
Carscw
I am going to say your mowing to fast
And go with the high lift blades.
Also if your cutting as low as the mower will you will not get enough air under the deck.
Raise the deck up a half inch and see if that helps.
There is no need to keep grass under 2 inches it just looks bad.
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
And go with the high lift blades.
Also if your cutting as low as the mower will you will not get enough air under the deck.
Raise the deck up a half inch and see if that helps.
There is no need to keep grass under 2 inches it just looks bad.
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
#5
djdicetn
Yep the advice you have received from the previous 3 user responses pretty well covers it all. A "single type" blade definitely won't perform well bagging AND mulching. And as pointed out, when mulching you MUST slow down a bit for the clippings to be pushed back down into the cut grass remaining...and you really should have a "mulching style" blade as mentioned). Also, the "unspoken rule" for mulching is the 1/3 rule.....never cut more than one-third of the total height of the grass(i.e. if the grass is 3" tall, set the deck at 2" therefore cutting only 1" of the total height...or 1/3). Making sure there has been no significant rain in the previous 24-48 hours won't hurt your results either!!
djdicetn
I have tried both mulching and bagging and the grass keeps building on the under side of the deck. It gets bad enough that it will fall off the deck and about stall out the mower (grass falls from under side of deck and hits the blades). At times, it gets bad enough that I have to lift the deck and let the grass fall out before I can continue (while mulching). When bagging, it happens often and I end up leaving clumps of grass (not bagged) on the ground throughout the lawn.
I have not tried changing blades as my local dealer tells me I am using the correct blades. This will happen at times when the grass is dry and its 80 outside and happens more often with due on the ground and its 65. I mow twice a week so the grass is not too tall (4 days att he most between mowings).
Any help would be appreciated. Pretty irritating to dump $9k and still have issues.
Tharin
Yep the advice you have received from the previous 3 user responses pretty well covers it all. A "single type" blade definitely won't perform well bagging AND mulching. And as pointed out, when mulching you MUST slow down a bit for the clippings to be pushed back down into the cut grass remaining...and you really should have a "mulching style" blade as mentioned). Also, the "unspoken rule" for mulching is the 1/3 rule.....never cut more than one-third of the total height of the grass(i.e. if the grass is 3" tall, set the deck at 2" therefore cutting only 1" of the total height...or 1/3). Making sure there has been no significant rain in the previous 24-48 hours won't hurt your results either!!
#6
T
Thuisman
T
Thuisman
Thanks for the replies all.
A couple clarifications---It was mentioned in a couple posts to not cut too much grass at a time. I don't think that I am. As I mentioned, I mow twice a week (the most time between mowings is 4 days). I do live in the pacific northwest (60 miles west of Seattle WA). That said, we have had one of our driest/warmest on record.
As for deck heighth, I am set pretty high. I only have one notch to go higher. I don't think speed is an issue either as I am going pretty slow.
Blades00definately sounds like that could be my issue. I will change them and see what happens.
Tharin
A couple clarifications---It was mentioned in a couple posts to not cut too much grass at a time. I don't think that I am. As I mentioned, I mow twice a week (the most time between mowings is 4 days). I do live in the pacific northwest (60 miles west of Seattle WA). That said, we have had one of our driest/warmest on record.
As for deck heighth, I am set pretty high. I only have one notch to go higher. I don't think speed is an issue either as I am going pretty slow.
Blades00definately sounds like that could be my issue. I will change them and see what happens.
Tharin
#7
Carscw
Looks like blades is the only thing left.
Let us know how it works out
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
Carscw
lThanks for the replies all. A couple clarifications---It was mentioned in a couple posts to not cut too much grass at a time. I don't think that I am. As I mentioned, I mow twice a week (the most time between mowings is 4 days). I do live in the pacific northwest (60 miles west of Seattle WA). That said, we have had one of our driest/warmest on record. As for deck heighth, I am set pretty high. I only have one notch to go higher. I don't think speed is an issue either as I am going pretty slow. Blades00definately sounds like that could be my issue. I will change them and see what happens. Tharin
Looks like blades is the only thing left.
Let us know how it works out
(( cowboy up and get over it ))
#8
Ric
Are we talking about the Hustler Fastrak you have listed just for clarification, and what size deck?
Ric
Thanks for the replies all.
A couple clarifications---It was mentioned in a couple posts to not cut too much grass at a time. I don't think that I am. As I mentioned, I mow twice a week (the most time between mowings is 4 days). I do live in the pacific northwest (60 miles west of Seattle WA). That said, we have had one of our driest/warmest on record.
As for deck heighth, I am set pretty high. I only have one notch to go higher. I don't think speed is an issue either as I am going pretty slow.
Blades00definately sounds like that could be my issue. I will change them and see what happens.
Tharin
Are we talking about the Hustler Fastrak you have listed just for clarification, and what size deck?
#9
djdicetn
Ya know, it does seem like I have read other comments in threads by Hustler owners that the FasTrak deck was prone to "clogging"(don't know whether it's deck-size oriented or whether they have exactly the same deck style as the FasTrak Super Duty, which I've not read any reports of that problem).
djdicetn
Are we talking about the Hustler Fastrak you have listed just for clarification, and what size deck?
Ya know, it does seem like I have read other comments in threads by Hustler owners that the FasTrak deck was prone to "clogging"(don't know whether it's deck-size oriented or whether they have exactly the same deck style as the FasTrak Super Duty, which I've not read any reports of that problem).
#10
Ric
I was wondering the same thing, seems like I've read on some other comments forums about people having problems also, that's why I asked for clarification, and what size deck he was using and I also would like to know how old a unit it is. Some of the older models were only running in and around 15000 FPM blade tip speed. The new ones are 18 to 18600 Fpm BTS and shouldn't have problems with clogging up.
Ric
Ya know, it does seem like I have read other comments in threads by Hustler owners that the FasTrak deck was prone to "clogging"(don't know whether it's deck-size oriented or whether they have exactly the same deck style as the FasTrak Super Duty, which I've not read any reports of that problem).
I was wondering the same thing, seems like I've read on some other comments forums about people having problems also, that's why I asked for clarification, and what size deck he was using and I also would like to know how old a unit it is. Some of the older models were only running in and around 15000 FPM blade tip speed. The new ones are 18 to 18600 Fpm BTS and shouldn't have problems with clogging up.
#11
T
Thuisman
Tbe unit new.
T
Thuisman
I was wondering the same thing, seems like I've read on some other comments forums about people having problems also, that's why I asked for clarification, and what size deck he was using and I also would like to know how old a unit it is. Some of the older models were only running in and around 15000 FPM blade tip speed. The new ones are 18 to 18600 Fpm BTS and shouldn't have problems with clogging up.
Tbe unit new.
#13
djdicetn
I tried to do a side-by-side comparison of the decks on the Fastrak and the Fastrak SD(all I could find on my local Hustler dealers site were 54" models), but they both appear to be 11gauge and hav the same "Specs", although under "Features" they are described differently. Here's what I found:
Fastrak:
Features-Productive 54 mowing deck
Specs-Deck(Type) Free-floating deck using three blades with center blade to the front. Deck is suspended at the corners. Includes 4 deck-mounted rollers to improve flotation in rolling and uneven terrain.
(Construction) 11 ga, .120 in (.30cm) welded steel with 11 ga, .120 in (.30cm) doubler welded onto spindle mount areas. Solid 1 in x .375 (2.55 cm x .95 cm) steel bars reinforce impact areas on trim edges. Commercial-style box-section reinforced front edge.
Fastrak Super Duty:
Features-Commercial welded steel deck
Specs-Deck(Type) Free-floating deck using three blades with center blade to the front. Deck is suspended at the corners. Includes 4 deck-mounted rollers to improve flotation in rolling and uneven terrain
(Construction) 11 ga, .120 (.30 cm) welded steel with 11 ga, .120 in (.30 cm) doubler welded onto spindle mount areas. Solid 1 in x .375 (2.55 cm x .95 cm) steel bars reinforce impact areas on trim edges. Commercial-style box-section reinforced front edge.
They both show a spec of 18,910 blade tip speed. Can't really discern a lot of difference using the Hustler info.
djdicetn
Ya know, it does seem like I have read other comments in threads by Hustler owners that the FasTrak deck was prone to "clogging"(don't know whether it's deck-size oriented or whether they have exactly the same deck style as the FasTrak Super Duty, which I've not read any reports of that problem).
I tried to do a side-by-side comparison of the decks on the Fastrak and the Fastrak SD(all I could find on my local Hustler dealers site were 54" models), but they both appear to be 11gauge and hav the same "Specs", although under "Features" they are described differently. Here's what I found:
Fastrak:
Features-Productive 54 mowing deck
Specs-Deck(Type) Free-floating deck using three blades with center blade to the front. Deck is suspended at the corners. Includes 4 deck-mounted rollers to improve flotation in rolling and uneven terrain.
(Construction) 11 ga, .120 in (.30cm) welded steel with 11 ga, .120 in (.30cm) doubler welded onto spindle mount areas. Solid 1 in x .375 (2.55 cm x .95 cm) steel bars reinforce impact areas on trim edges. Commercial-style box-section reinforced front edge.
Fastrak Super Duty:
Features-Commercial welded steel deck
Specs-Deck(Type) Free-floating deck using three blades with center blade to the front. Deck is suspended at the corners. Includes 4 deck-mounted rollers to improve flotation in rolling and uneven terrain
(Construction) 11 ga, .120 (.30 cm) welded steel with 11 ga, .120 in (.30 cm) doubler welded onto spindle mount areas. Solid 1 in x .375 (2.55 cm x .95 cm) steel bars reinforce impact areas on trim edges. Commercial-style box-section reinforced front edge.
They both show a spec of 18,910 blade tip speed. Can't really discern a lot of difference using the Hustler info.
#15
djdicetn
Does the deck have a mulch kit(baffles), in addition to the cover for the discharge chute, that you remove when you attach the bagger?? When you are bagging, do you install low-lift or hi-lift blades and then when mulching install mulch blades. If you have a "mulch kit" installed, maybe try Oregon Gator blades(see below for a link to the OEM listing for Oregon blades). I think they show a standard lift, a G5 Gator and a G6 Gator for your Fastrak.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/OREGON_BladesByOEM.pdf
djdicetn
It has a 48" deck. I currently have the bagging system on it.
Tharin
Does the deck have a mulch kit(baffles), in addition to the cover for the discharge chute, that you remove when you attach the bagger?? When you are bagging, do you install low-lift or hi-lift blades and then when mulching install mulch blades. If you have a "mulch kit" installed, maybe try Oregon Gator blades(see below for a link to the OEM listing for Oregon blades). I think they show a standard lift, a G5 Gator and a G6 Gator for your Fastrak.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/OREGON_BladesByOEM.pdf
#16
T
Tom59
T
Tom59
Decks are IDENTICAL as far as fabrication. Only difference is the pulleys on the SD are metal and SD has high lift blades stock.
#17
djdicetn
Sooooo.....maybe the OP needs to try some OEM hi-lift blades, right?
P.S.
I'm gonna try to attach some pics of my Gravely deck "before installing the mulch kit" and "after installing the mulch kit" so the OP can compare to what the "mulch kit" installed on his ZTR looks like in comparison(design-wise). If I can just get the attachments to cooperate:0) BTW, you can see in the pictures that this kit completely encloses each blade with a baffle that extends down as for as the outside edge of the deck and is constructed of the same 7gauge steel. It does a FANTASTIC job mulching!!!
B4:
After:
I apparently cannot remember user lawn mower fanatic's instructions on inserting pictures as it is a MESS and I can't even get the final pics of "After" to attach(and editing my post doesn't seem to help). Don't know how the "B4" pics also got attached as "Thumbnails". I guess me using Windows 7 as a virtual machine inside my iMac may contribute to my difficulties. Maybe since user lmf has administrative rights if he happens upon my post in this thread he can get my attached photos(B4=3597-3600) and (After=3601-3608) straightened out in this post(I'll keep trying but I really need to get outside and "mow my lawn:0)
---
***Hey DJ: I fixed your attachments!
-lawn mower fanatic
djdicetn
Decks are IDENTICAL as far as fabrication. Only difference is the pulleys on the SD are metal and SD has high lift blades stock.
Sooooo.....maybe the OP needs to try some OEM hi-lift blades, right?
P.S.
I'm gonna try to attach some pics of my Gravely deck "before installing the mulch kit" and "after installing the mulch kit" so the OP can compare to what the "mulch kit" installed on his ZTR looks like in comparison(design-wise). If I can just get the attachments to cooperate:0) BTW, you can see in the pictures that this kit completely encloses each blade with a baffle that extends down as for as the outside edge of the deck and is constructed of the same 7gauge steel. It does a FANTASTIC job mulching!!!
B4:
After:
I apparently cannot remember user lawn mower fanatic's instructions on inserting pictures as it is a MESS and I can't even get the final pics of "After" to attach(and editing my post doesn't seem to help). Don't know how the "B4" pics also got attached as "Thumbnails". I guess me using Windows 7 as a virtual machine inside my iMac may contribute to my difficulties. Maybe since user lmf has administrative rights if he happens upon my post in this thread he can get my attached photos(B4=3597-3600) and (After=3601-3608) straightened out in this post(I'll keep trying but I really need to get outside and "mow my lawn:0)
---
***Hey DJ: I fixed your attachments!
-lawn mower fanatic
#18
PVHIII
I have a Fastrak SD 48" I've only got 8hrs on it..but I haven't had any clogging issues... I do have high lift blades on it
PVHIII
I have tried both mulching and bagging and the grass keeps building on the under side of the deck. It gets bad enough that it will fall off the deck and about stall out the mower (grass falls from under side of deck and hits the blades). At times, it gets bad enough that I have to lift the deck and let the grass fall out before I can continue (while mulching). When bagging, it happens often and I end up leaving clumps of grass (not bagged) on the ground throughout the lawn.
I have not tried changing blades as my local dealer tells me I am using the correct blades. This will happen at times when the grass is dry and its 80 outside and happens more often with due on the ground and its 65. I mow twice a week so the grass is not too tall (4 days att he most between mowings).
Any help would be appreciated. Pretty irritating to dump $9k and still have issues.
Tharin
I have a Fastrak SD 48" I've only got 8hrs on it..but I haven't had any clogging issues... I do have high lift blades on it
#19
PVHIII
PVHIII
....I'm having problems posting pics in my album as well...guess I don't have the forum completely figured out lolSooooo.....maybe the OP needs to try some OEM hi-lift blades, right?
P.S.
I'm gonna try to attach some pics of my Gravely deck "before installing the mulch kit" and "after installing the mulch kit" so the OP can compare to what the "mulch kit" installed on his ZTR looks like in comparison(design-wise). If I can just get the attachments to cooperate:0) BTW, you can see in the pictures that this kit completely encloses each blade with a baffle that extends down as for as the outside edge of the deck and is constructed of the same 7gauge steel. It does a FANTASTIC job mulching!!!
B4:View attachment 17410View attachment 17411View attachment 17412
After:View attachment 17413View attachment 17414View attachment 17415View attachment 17416View attachment 17417
I apparently cannot remember user lawn mower fanatic's instructions on inserting pictures as it is a MESS and I can't even get the final pics of "After" to attach(and editing my post doesn't seem to help). Don't know how the "B4" pics also got attached as "Thumbnails". I guess me using Windows 7 as a virtual machine inside my iMac may contribute to my difficulties. Maybe since user lmf has administrative rights if he happens upon my post in this thread he can get my attached photos(B4=3597-3600) and (After=3601-3608) straightened out in this post(I'll keep trying but I really need to get outside and "mow my lawn:0)
I give up:0(
I ended up "losing" the first "B4" pic by trying to delete the attachment(#attachment#17409, photo#DSC03597). The "insert image" screen just seems to show the "top 8 pics" and has a "scroll up"....but no "scroll down" so I cannot get to pics DSC3606-3608(final Afters)...OR to the "re-inserted" pic#3597(first B4).........HELP admins!!!!!:0)
#20
lawn mower fanatic
Look here: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/site-discussion/31-how-create-photo-galleries-upload-photos.html
And user djdicetn's attachments were fixed. :smile:
lawn mower fanatic
....I'm having problems posting pics in my album as well...guess I don't have the forum completely figured out lol
Look here: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/site-discussion/31-how-create-photo-galleries-upload-photos.html
And user djdicetn's attachments were fixed. :smile:
#21
djdicetn
Thanks, lmf...you got er dun!!! I think my problem may have been related to me not "naming the jpg files" like you mentioned in your message to me. Anyhow, user PVhlll will benefit from that link you gave(I was in a hurry to get outside and mow the yard, got frustrated and forgot about those instructions). Hopefully, there are a couple of users who have reported some problems with mulch kits and I can direct them to the pictures of the Gravely kit which I consider a "model" for a good kit(heavy gauge, fully encloses the blades and extends to the bottom of the deck edge). If their kit isn't similar in design(and just consists of a discharge chute cover) most likely they cannot expect the same results that I am getting. Again....thanks for taking care of the mess I made with my pics!!!!!
djdicetn
Look here: http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/site-discussion/31-how-create-photo-galleries-upload-photos.html
And user djdicetn's attachments were fixed. :smile:
Thanks, lmf...you got er dun!!! I think my problem may have been related to me not "naming the jpg files" like you mentioned in your message to me. Anyhow, user PVhlll will benefit from that link you gave(I was in a hurry to get outside and mow the yard, got frustrated and forgot about those instructions). Hopefully, there are a couple of users who have reported some problems with mulch kits and I can direct them to the pictures of the Gravely kit which I consider a "model" for a good kit(heavy gauge, fully encloses the blades and extends to the bottom of the deck edge). If their kit isn't similar in design(and just consists of a discharge chute cover) most likely they cannot expect the same results that I am getting. Again....thanks for taking care of the mess I made with my pics!!!!!
#22
T
Tom59
I'm confused? My deck doesn't clog. High lift blades for mulching? I have no clue....
I bought a second set of blades -high lift - fusion blades. But I haven't even tried them yet. Next spring probably. My deck looks clean underneath but I never mow wet grass. Pacific NW you probably need an umbrella and snorkle to mow. :smile:
Again my deck isn't a mulch deck and my deck with regular lift blades doesn't clog. I mow at 2/3 throttle tops. 1/2 throttle is fine. Just depends on what time of year here grass is thinner in the late summer than spring , spring grass is thicker and requires more throttle.
I don't have a bagger either....
T
Tom59
Decks are IDENTICAL as far as fabrication. Only difference is the pulleys on the SD are metal and SD has high lift blades stock.
I'm confused? My deck doesn't clog. High lift blades for mulching? I have no clue....
I bought a second set of blades -high lift - fusion blades. But I haven't even tried them yet. Next spring probably. My deck looks clean underneath but I never mow wet grass. Pacific NW you probably need an umbrella and snorkle to mow. :smile:
Again my deck isn't a mulch deck and my deck with regular lift blades doesn't clog. I mow at 2/3 throttle tops. 1/2 throttle is fine. Just depends on what time of year here grass is thinner in the late summer than spring , spring grass is thicker and requires more throttle.
I don't have a bagger either....
#23
djdicetn
Really......I've never heard of anyone "mowing" at 1/2 or 2/3 throttle and I thought this was not recommended in regard to cut quality(and possibly adverse effect on the trannies). I'm no expert, but have read this advice on these forums. Of course....if it's working for you and your Hustler owner's manual doesn't warn against it I "guess" it's OK.
djdicetn
I'm confused? My deck doesn't clog. High lift blades for mulching? I have no clue....
I bought a second set of blades -high lift - fusion blades. But I haven't even tried them yet. Next spring probably. My deck looks clean underneath but I never mow wet grass. Pacific NW you probably need an umbrella and snorkle to mow. :smile:
Again my deck isn't a mulch deck and my deck with regular lift blades doesn't clog. I mow at 2/3 throttle tops. 1/2 throttle is fine. Just depends on what time of year here grass is thinner in the late summer than spring , spring grass is thicker and requires more throttle.
I don't have a bagger either....
Really......I've never heard of anyone "mowing" at 1/2 or 2/3 throttle and I thought this was not recommended in regard to cut quality(and possibly adverse effect on the trannies). I'm no expert, but have read this advice on these forums. Of course....if it's working for you and your Hustler owner's manual doesn't warn against it I "guess" it's OK.
#24
T
Tom59
You engage your blades at about 3/4 throttle then back it down a little.....my dealer told me he mows at half throttle. My blades are spinning plenty fast enough. Full throttle is ridiculous on my machine.
It is ok. The only issue is blade engagement and the blade clutch spinning fast enough when you engage blades.
You also need to throttle down to disengage them. Trannies , not so much. They are always engaged w/hydraulic fluid. I drive my machine into the out building at idle. Never worried before. You are confusing the clutch for the blades w/ tranny operation, I hope.
I'll take my lawns cut anyday , everyday. Full throttle is just wasting gas for me. Maybe If I were mowing a hay field. :smile:
T
Tom59
Really......I've never heard of anyone "mowing" at 1/2 or 2/3 throttle and I thought this was not recommended in regard to cut quality(and possibly adverse effect on the trannies). I'm no expert, but have read this advice on these forums. Of course....if it's working for you and your Hustler owner's manual doesn't warn against it I "guess" it's OK.
You engage your blades at about 3/4 throttle then back it down a little.....my dealer told me he mows at half throttle. My blades are spinning plenty fast enough. Full throttle is ridiculous on my machine.
It is ok. The only issue is blade engagement and the blade clutch spinning fast enough when you engage blades.
You also need to throttle down to disengage them. Trannies , not so much. They are always engaged w/hydraulic fluid. I drive my machine into the out building at idle. Never worried before. You are confusing the clutch for the blades w/ tranny operation, I hope.
I'll take my lawns cut anyday , everyday. Full throttle is just wasting gas for me. Maybe If I were mowing a hay field. :smile:
#25
djdicetn
Yeah, I was aware of the "throttle down" to no more than 3/4 throttle to engage/dis-engage the PTO. I just never heard of "mowing" at that speed. I may have to try that with my Gravely(it has the Kawasaki FX691V engine and 18,000 fpm blade tip speed) to see if I can save a little gas money after I retire. But I would probably need to remove the mulch kit I just installed as I doubt it would work properly at the reduced blade tip speed.
djdicetn
You engage your blades at about 3/4 throttle then back it down a little.....my dealer told me he mows at half throttle. My blades are spinning plenty fast enough. Full throttle is ridiculous on my machine.
It is ok. The only issue is blade engagement and the blade clutch spinning fast enough when you engage blades.
You also need to throttle down to disengage them. Trannies , not so much. They are always engaged w/hydraulic fluid. I drive my machine into the out building at idle. Never worried before. You are confusing the clutch for the blades w/ tranny operation, I hope.
I'll take my lawns cut anyday , everyday. Full throttle is just wasting gas for me. Maybe If I were mowing a hay field. :smile:
Yeah, I was aware of the "throttle down" to no more than 3/4 throttle to engage/dis-engage the PTO. I just never heard of "mowing" at that speed. I may have to try that with my Gravely(it has the Kawasaki FX691V engine and 18,000 fpm blade tip speed) to see if I can save a little gas money after I retire. But I would probably need to remove the mulch kit I just installed as I doubt it would work properly at the reduced blade tip speed.
#26
Ric
Most mowers are engaged at full throttle. There's always been a debate on which is best for the clutch. I was told by the dealer to engaging at half or three quarters throttle put to much stress or load on the engine and clutch. If he checks the manual he will find the proper way that hustler says to do for his machine and I think he will find it say to engage at 2/3rds throttle or better to prevent load and after the blades are in engaged to advance the engine throttle to full RPM to mow. Actually he will probably use more gas mowing at 2/3rds throttle than he would at full because the engine is actually working harder.
.....Use high blade speed. Your mower is designed to operate at full throttle. The throttle setting directly controls blade speed. The highest blade speed generally gives the best cut..... That comes from the hustler manual.
Ric
Really......I've never heard of anyone "mowing" at 1/2 or 2/3 throttle and I thought this was not recommended in regard to cut quality(and possibly adverse effect on the trannies). I'm no expert, but have read this advice on these forums. Of course....if it's working for you and your Hustler owner's manual doesn't warn against it I "guess" it's OK.
Most mowers are engaged at full throttle. There's always been a debate on which is best for the clutch. I was told by the dealer to engaging at half or three quarters throttle put to much stress or load on the engine and clutch. If he checks the manual he will find the proper way that hustler says to do for his machine and I think he will find it say to engage at 2/3rds throttle or better to prevent load and after the blades are in engaged to advance the engine throttle to full RPM to mow. Actually he will probably use more gas mowing at 2/3rds throttle than he would at full because the engine is actually working harder.
.....Use high blade speed. Your mower is designed to operate at full throttle. The throttle setting directly controls blade speed. The highest blade speed generally gives the best cut..... That comes from the hustler manual.
#27
rmancini
rmancini
Welcome to the forum.
You live up in the rain shadow. Here in S. Kitsap, we get a bunch more rain that you do so the lawns are wetter and the clippings are heavier.
The only way I can mow mine without the problems you described is to cut higher. In the spring, it necessitates cutting more frequently but when it rains almost every day, it's the only way.
I suppose it's one of the drawbacks of living in the PacNorWest.
Cheers.
Rich
You live up in the rain shadow. Here in S. Kitsap, we get a bunch more rain that you do so the lawns are wetter and the clippings are heavier.
The only way I can mow mine without the problems you described is to cut higher. In the spring, it necessitates cutting more frequently but when it rains almost every day, it's the only way.
I suppose it's one of the drawbacks of living in the PacNorWest.
Cheers.
Rich
#28
PVHIII
Actually I jacked around with it until I figured it out and I've posted several pics in my profile since
PVHIII
Thanks, lmf...you got er dun!!! I think my problem may have been related to me not "naming the jpg files" like you mentioned in your message to me. Anyhow, user PVhlll will benefit from that link you gave(I was in a hurry to get outside and mow the yard, got frustrated and forgot about those instructions). Hopefully, there are a couple of users who have reported some problems with mulch kits and I can direct them to the pictures of the Gravely kit which I consider a "model" for a good kit(heavy gauge, fully encloses the blades and extends to the bottom of the deck edge). If their kit isn't similar in design(and just consists of a discharge chute cover) most likely they cannot expect the same results that I am getting. Again....thanks for taking care of the mess I made with my pics!!!!!
Actually I jacked around with it until I figured it out and I've posted several pics in my profile since
#29
B
bill1631
B
bill1631
Hi,
Is your lawn mower running at top RPM? Are the belt(s) worn out? A slipping drive system (belt) will slow down the blades and allow the grass to ball up even though the engine keeps running at top RPM. Check the belt adjustment, check the drive system for slippage. A dull blade will still allow the grass to be disbursed and not ball up. I really suspect slippage somewhere between the engine and the blades. Are you your mowing the grass when it's wet? Hope not. Check the belts width and make sure it/they is as wide as a new one. If the belt(s) is worn out, check for rust on the pulleys. If you have rust on the pulley shoulders, you will wear out a belt fast and that half inch wide belt will soon be 3/8" or less. I carefully sanded my pulley shoulders while the mower was running, pulleys and blades turning (you can remove the blades for safety). Notice I said carefully!! Get adhesive backed sandpaper and stick it on a paint stirrer stick or something similar that will break if caught in the pulleys. (NOT YOUR FINGERS!!) Sand the rusty pulley shoulders smooth, remove the belt(s) and spray paint the pulleys with rust-oleum before installing a new belt(s). Pulley shoulders should feel very smooth to the touch at this point or add another coat or two of paint. Hope this helps and Lottsa luck with your problem.
Bill - Sold my Hustler 440 60" and went to a Country Clipper Boss 60". Love my Country Clipper with Joy Stick control.
Is your lawn mower running at top RPM? Are the belt(s) worn out? A slipping drive system (belt) will slow down the blades and allow the grass to ball up even though the engine keeps running at top RPM. Check the belt adjustment, check the drive system for slippage. A dull blade will still allow the grass to be disbursed and not ball up. I really suspect slippage somewhere between the engine and the blades. Are you your mowing the grass when it's wet? Hope not. Check the belts width and make sure it/they is as wide as a new one. If the belt(s) is worn out, check for rust on the pulleys. If you have rust on the pulley shoulders, you will wear out a belt fast and that half inch wide belt will soon be 3/8" or less. I carefully sanded my pulley shoulders while the mower was running, pulleys and blades turning (you can remove the blades for safety). Notice I said carefully!! Get adhesive backed sandpaper and stick it on a paint stirrer stick or something similar that will break if caught in the pulleys. (NOT YOUR FINGERS!!) Sand the rusty pulley shoulders smooth, remove the belt(s) and spray paint the pulleys with rust-oleum before installing a new belt(s). Pulley shoulders should feel very smooth to the touch at this point or add another coat or two of paint. Hope this helps and Lottsa luck with your problem.
Bill - Sold my Hustler 440 60" and went to a Country Clipper Boss 60". Love my Country Clipper with Joy Stick control.
#30
G
gatorblade
G
gatorblade
I have a 02 Hustler Z 60 in. 23hp Kawasaki. Gatorblades helped, but the bottom line for me was not enough hp. for the deck size. I talked to my sales person, he said improvments have been made on the deck and more hp is available. Also the 1250lb. weight makes it tough to mow our bottom land in the spring. I test drove Bob Cat, and D.Chopper. What ever I bought was going to be made in the U.S. I could have gotten by with a smaller deck, less scalps on the dips n doodles and the hp might have been ok. We mow 3+acres and oh the Sycamore leaves! Dick
#31
O
Outdoor Environments
O
Outdoor Environments
I have been told that you can spray a non-stick cooking spray on the under side of mower deck coating it all over and it will prevent grass from sticking to the under side of deck. But they say you have to spray it on when the deck is dry before any mowing. I have not tried this so do not know if it actually works. I doubt it will prevent the grass from clumping up and falling onto lawn however. I live in the upper corner of SC and we had one of the rainiest summer in history with over 50+ inches so you can imagine how the fast the grass grew. On some properties we would cut the grass and let it fall and lay for a bit to dry out some while we did other chores on the property such as prune, weedeat,etc; then go back over it to vacum with our Walkers. Takes a little extra time but sure beats raking.
#32
B
Brandon04
B
Brandon04
New guy to the forums here but this was one of the reasons I joined. I thought I was the only one having problems with this and I am glad to see I am not.
My attempts to correct the issue were new blades from the dealer, cutting grass in the late afternoon/early evening a couple days after a rain, taking no more then 1/3 off and still having it bog down/stall/clump and make bad noises as it tries to clear itself I found that removing the side discharge chute helped me tremendously.
My attempts to correct the issue were new blades from the dealer, cutting grass in the late afternoon/early evening a couple days after a rain, taking no more then 1/3 off and still having it bog down/stall/clump and make bad noises as it tries to clear itself I found that removing the side discharge chute helped me tremendously.
#33
djdicetn
Spraying Pam cooking spray is an urban legend. I even tried a product called Zeplon, which is a teflon-based "dry lubricant". This was on the 54" deck of a brand new Craftsman lawn tractor that hadn't been used yet. No joy:0(
Aside from painting the underbelly of a brand new deck with Emron(airplane paint....which is a Hazmat and needs specific paint equipment) there's nothing aside from the recommendations on making sure grass is good and dry(no rain in last 48 hrs and mow late on a nice sunny day), never cutting more than 1/3 total height and maybe some mulching or Gator blades that will help this problem. I put a mulch kit on my Gravely and this seemed to help as well. Very little buildup when I'm done mowing and takes < 5 mins. with a garden hose to rinse it off from underneath.
djdicetn
I have been told that you can spray a non-stick cooking spray on the under side of mower deck coating it all over and it will prevent grass from sticking to the under side of deck. But they say you have to spray it on when the deck is dry before any mowing. I have not tried this so do not know if it actually works. I doubt it will prevent the grass from clumping up and falling onto lawn however. I live in the upper corner of SC and we had one of the rainiest summer in history with over 50+ inches so you can imagine how the fast the grass grew. On some properties we would cut the grass and let it fall and lay for a bit to dry out some while we did other chores on the property such as prune, weedeat,etc; then go back over it to vacum with our Walkers. Takes a little extra time but sure beats raking.
Spraying Pam cooking spray is an urban legend. I even tried a product called Zeplon, which is a teflon-based "dry lubricant". This was on the 54" deck of a brand new Craftsman lawn tractor that hadn't been used yet. No joy:0(
Aside from painting the underbelly of a brand new deck with Emron(airplane paint....which is a Hazmat and needs specific paint equipment) there's nothing aside from the recommendations on making sure grass is good and dry(no rain in last 48 hrs and mow late on a nice sunny day), never cutting more than 1/3 total height and maybe some mulching or Gator blades that will help this problem. I put a mulch kit on my Gravely and this seemed to help as well. Very little buildup when I'm done mowing and takes < 5 mins. with a garden hose to rinse it off from underneath.
#34
Carscw
Carscw
What I do is let a layer of grass stay on the deck until it drys out and gets hard. Solves two things. No more grass sticking to the deck and no rust.