bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Glue a plastic mirror on the mower so you can see it from the seat.
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Checking temperature
- Thread starter gainestruk
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Export threadhow well does anyone think those fans on the transaxle do much?
the people that build the hydrostats think they do. It comes up in my hydrogear update every year about broken blades and we are always told if they could operate properly with one less blade they would build the hydro with a fan with one less blade.
An auto gauge...how did they route it thru the tank? I love to know the temperature best, because I have no means of checking temp besides the tempil sticks.
That takes too much time, I have 2 big nice round gauges on the tractor...amps and an hour meter.
I think there are more important things to monitor, but that takes dreaded sensors the company has to buy. I miss the older tractors in many ways like that.
I have never seen a broken blade and why would one extra fan blade on the transaxle matter much at all? I love a 3 blade deck if you know how to arrange the blades and keep it clean.
I just do not understand your comment ILENGINE. It seems even the mid size, larger tractors are going to hydrostatic now.
That takes too much time, I have 2 big nice round gauges on the tractor...amps and an hour meter.
I think there are more important things to monitor, but that takes dreaded sensors the company has to buy. I miss the older tractors in many ways like that.
I have never seen a broken blade and why would one extra fan blade on the transaxle matter much at all? I love a 3 blade deck if you know how to arrange the blades and keep it clean.
I just do not understand your comment ILENGINE. It seems even the mid size, larger tractors are going to hydrostatic now.
I think if you could take heat images of the surface of the transmission you would see heat layers kind of rolling off which a fan clears away.
The tempil sticks are apparently widely used for temp readings on transmissions.
ingigo: Here is my sermon on gauge installation: The oil temp gauge installation is not that difficult, although it would seem so for a newbie. You already have a hole in your dash--take out the hour meter. The hole is probably 2 to 2- 1/8" dia which is standard for many gauges. That hole will mount the oil temp gauge which will be held in by two thumb or hex screws backside. At the oil pan you have a drain plug. You buy an equivalent plug at Lowes that also has a 1/8 npt (the thread) hole already in the center of the drain plug. Screw the oil temp sensor into the new drain plug. Screw the drain plug into the pan (the gauge sensor will then sit in oil). WIRING: the little kits show where to wire. There will be a 12volt contact (borrow 12V from the existing tractor wiring plug-(if afraid of this have some do it for you) , probably a ground (frame) contact, and the contact from the gauge to the little contact which sticks out from the sensor you screwed into the drain plug. Aside from a little fiddling with the insulator washers on the sensor screw, that's it.
Yes, hour meters are useful. If you have a hole saw in 2" dia and enough room on the front side of the dash , cut out a new hole for a 3rd gauge. Do not cut without making sure you will NOT ruin existing wiring. My Craftsman has plenty of room for 2 gauge holes.
If you are still leery that is ok. Any aftermarket auto or motorcycle shop could make this installlation in about an hour. The kit probably $50. The labor , maybe an hour for a pro. If you are a newbie give yourself a day. sounds like you will enjoy such a gauge.
When (if) my Craftsman ever dies I plan to do a pic installation and will share. Again, way more that anyone asked for.
BTW Why is a sensor "dreaded?" Also is IL ENG blades the fan blades, not the cutting blades?
The tempil sticks are apparently widely used for temp readings on transmissions.
ingigo: Here is my sermon on gauge installation: The oil temp gauge installation is not that difficult, although it would seem so for a newbie. You already have a hole in your dash--take out the hour meter. The hole is probably 2 to 2- 1/8" dia which is standard for many gauges. That hole will mount the oil temp gauge which will be held in by two thumb or hex screws backside. At the oil pan you have a drain plug. You buy an equivalent plug at Lowes that also has a 1/8 npt (the thread) hole already in the center of the drain plug. Screw the oil temp sensor into the new drain plug. Screw the drain plug into the pan (the gauge sensor will then sit in oil). WIRING: the little kits show where to wire. There will be a 12volt contact (borrow 12V from the existing tractor wiring plug-(if afraid of this have some do it for you) , probably a ground (frame) contact, and the contact from the gauge to the little contact which sticks out from the sensor you screwed into the drain plug. Aside from a little fiddling with the insulator washers on the sensor screw, that's it.
Yes, hour meters are useful. If you have a hole saw in 2" dia and enough room on the front side of the dash , cut out a new hole for a 3rd gauge. Do not cut without making sure you will NOT ruin existing wiring. My Craftsman has plenty of room for 2 gauge holes.
If you are still leery that is ok. Any aftermarket auto or motorcycle shop could make this installlation in about an hour. The kit probably $50. The labor , maybe an hour for a pro. If you are a newbie give yourself a day. sounds like you will enjoy such a gauge.
When (if) my Craftsman ever dies I plan to do a pic installation and will share. Again, way more that anyone asked for.
BTW Why is a sensor "dreaded?" Also is IL ENG blades the fan blades, not the cutting blades?
Thanks motoman!
A "dreaded sensor" means it is very easy to install an electrical gauge an hour meter, but fluid temp sensors are "dreaded" by the company because they cost more both parts and labor. the other ? is that I was talking ONLY about the transaxle cooling fan. It was stupid of me to think 1 less blade would not matter. I have a lot of aeronautical background knowledge and any imbalance reduces cooling and the thrust of air dramatically. I apologize for this. Balance those mower blades too!
I can do everything to install the oil temp gauge motorman, but I have one BIG question. The 1/8 tapped hole in the new drain plug. Will the sensor screwed into the hole leak oil? should I put some high heat threadlock on the threads? There is a separate valve to drain the oil, so I have 2 low oil plugs waiting to be tapped.
A "dreaded sensor" means it is very easy to install an electrical gauge an hour meter, but fluid temp sensors are "dreaded" by the company because they cost more both parts and labor. the other ? is that I was talking ONLY about the transaxle cooling fan. It was stupid of me to think 1 less blade would not matter. I have a lot of aeronautical background knowledge and any imbalance reduces cooling and the thrust of air dramatically. I apologize for this. Balance those mower blades too!
I can do everything to install the oil temp gauge motorman, but I have one BIG question. The 1/8 tapped hole in the new drain plug. Will the sensor screwed into the hole leak oil? should I put some high heat threadlock on the threads? There is a separate valve to drain the oil, so I have 2 low oil plugs waiting to be tapped.
ingigo, Both the original oil drain plug and the hole for the oil sensor are National Pipe thread (all I have seen). This means the threads are cut tapered so at a point there is interference between the mating threads of the oil plug threaded hole and the sensor OD threads (I know you know this, partially being said for other newbie viewers). This interference "mostly" results in a leak proof seal when torqued with a short handled wrench (guessing...up to 35 lb ft?). There are times when such pipe threads will leak under pressure where sealer or teflon tape can be used. Since this app only sees crankcase pressure I have not had a problem just metal to metal . (Everything else leaks, not the plug :rolleyes) The Lowes plug is brass and I think the sensor is steel. Sounds like you will have a carefree set up that will not require disconnecting the sensor wire for oil drain. I simply place the brass Lowes plug in a vise and tightened the sensor down. For oil change that assembly is disconnected from the send wire and the big hex plug removed. Again if a person does not want to buy the ?$5 plug is is fairly simple (with a drill press) to make the hole in the oil plug and (carefully) tap the 1/8NPT. As for expense to the mfgr...if we pay $50 at retail the parts gotta be half that for a mfgr. But of course there is a labor charge, drawing changes, manual language ,,,on and on. Plus as the pros here point out mfgrs probably simply gave up cause like Berts' customers , the "engine seizers," most won't read the guages. I have watched mine and treated the lowly born Craftsman Intek like a queen, and so far have only caught her cheating once.
Wow, that's good info and a lot of it.
How much $ does the pre tapped oil plug run? I do not have a drill press anymore, or a tap set.
Once installed the plug will never be removed, so I can permanently seal it. I think Teflon tape would just melt quickly.
I would have to use high temp red Loc-tite. What else it recommended to seal a hot threaded connection?
How much $ does the pre tapped oil plug run? I do not have a drill press anymore, or a tap set.
Once installed the plug will never be removed, so I can permanently seal it. I think Teflon tape would just melt quickly.
I would have to use high temp red Loc-tite. What else it recommended to seal a hot threaded connection?
Just try metal to metal to start. I have had the cheapo HF teflon tape hold up to hot oil temps. Go to lowes spcialty plumbing pegboard with baggies. I think you will find the fitting around $5. If you get a bottle of lock tite you will pay a lot and it will soon expire its shelf life.