Well yesterday I started the mower to cut the back acre. The volt meter pegged upon starting and so I started cutting the lawn at half throttle. As I was cutting I noticed that the meter had dropped to about half way to the positive. I increased the throttle and the meter stayed at an acceptable level and I was able to cut the entire lawn at full throttle. I ran out if gas towards the end. After refueling I started her up and the meter pegged to the positive again. I left the throttle at half and about 3-5 minutes later I saw the meter go down and finished the lawn at full throttle. Any idea what gives? Doesn't seem like a short would cause this. Any ideas? Is this normal?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Charging fuse starting to blow
- Thread starter Morson82
- Start date
More options
Export threadPlease check the following. Measure DCV at the battery on startup when you say your meter is pegging. I have seen more than one bad meter. Second, try running a separate ground wire from the regulator housing to a good engine ground. I have seen where the normal ground does not provide a good path for the regulator.
Mad Mackie
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2011
- Threads
- 50
- Messages
- 1,851
Both the charging system fuse and the electrical system fuses are in play when the machine is running and mowing. The key switch, ammeter, PTO switch are electrically between the fuses when the machine is operating.
Your clutch is the high amperage draw item followed by an electric fuel pump if your machine had DFI or EFI, or a fuel shutoff solenoid if carbureted.
Check the continuity of the electric clutch coil, should not be less than 2.2 OHMs and infinity to ground from either leg of the clutch wire connectors. This should be performed with an ohmmeter that is automatically zeroed or able to be zeroed when the leads are connected to each other. Internal resistance of the clutch coil should be done with a cold clutch. The clutch electrical connector must be disconnected to do this testing.
Initially check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at full throttle and having been run long enough to stabilize the charging system. This voltage should be 13.9-14.3 VDC and check the ammeter on the machine to see what the charging rate is, should be at zero to a slightly positive charge rate if the battery is fully capable and charged.
The voltages on my machine are 14.2 VDC at full throttle and 13.8 VDC when the deck is operating. My machine doesn't have an ammeter, but I do have an aftermarket voltage indication system installed.
Mad Mackie in CT
Your clutch is the high amperage draw item followed by an electric fuel pump if your machine had DFI or EFI, or a fuel shutoff solenoid if carbureted.
Check the continuity of the electric clutch coil, should not be less than 2.2 OHMs and infinity to ground from either leg of the clutch wire connectors. This should be performed with an ohmmeter that is automatically zeroed or able to be zeroed when the leads are connected to each other. Internal resistance of the clutch coil should be done with a cold clutch. The clutch electrical connector must be disconnected to do this testing.
Initially check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at full throttle and having been run long enough to stabilize the charging system. This voltage should be 13.9-14.3 VDC and check the ammeter on the machine to see what the charging rate is, should be at zero to a slightly positive charge rate if the battery is fully capable and charged.
The voltages on my machine are 14.2 VDC at full throttle and 13.8 VDC when the deck is operating. My machine doesn't have an ammeter, but I do have an aftermarket voltage indication system installed.
Mad Mackie in CT
Last edited: