Ok, I have replaced the battery, stator and flywheel this week and everything went well. Engine fired right up and the volt meter indicated it was charging. I took the mower out and was driving to the front yard and the engine died. It was at full throttle and top speed, blades not engaged. I checked and the fuse for the charging system was blown and very hot. I replaced the fuse and she started right up. I was able to cut some of he lawn for about 20 minutes and then it blew again. I did notice that the volt meter was pegged to the right, past the 10. I checked the current at the batteries, full throttle and it showed 13.6. There was some chewed wires, but I wrapped then in electrical tape. Not sure where to go from here?
What engine are we talking about??? What piece of equipment are we talking about??? Can't help until you give us more info, such as make and model numbers and why you replaced the parts to start with. Remember we are thousands of miles away from you and you must be our eyes, ears and fingers to solve this.
If the volt meter is pegging you have a problem with the stator and/or voltage regulator.
Sorry about that. It's a scag sthm with a kohler command cv22s. I replaced a coil due to mice eating the plug wire. I had to replace the stator and flywheel due to magnets coming loose and destroying stator.
Ok, I think the rectifier is bad. Just checked the output at around 3600 rpm and its reading almost 17dcv. According to the repair page, anything over 14.7 means te rectifier needs to be replaced. I'm assuming that the increase in the output is the reason for the charging fuse blowing... Does sound right?
#5
EngineMan
Normally Voltage that is more than 14.7 volts indicates a faulty rectifier-regulator so go for a replacement.
I had to order a new rectifier, non in stock. My neighbor had a couple junk 20hp kohlers laying around so I took one of his rectifiers off and tried it on line. Volt meter indicated it was charging properly. I cut my lawn without so much as a peep from the engine/electrical. The next time I start the mower up and I see that the volt meter in discharging. I put the new rectifier on and the volt meter indicates no charging of the battery. I activate the pto and I get a discharge on the meter. I check voltage coming out of new rectifier and I'm showing 3-4 dcv. This is with the red probe on the center pin of the rectifier and he black probe on the grounding wire of the rectifier. When I move the black lead to a different grounding point I get 12dcv. I kept doing this a different grounding points and all showed 12dcv, except at the rectifier grounding point. I then put 2 new connectors on the end of the wire and it showed 7-8 dcv. I heard something rubbing up near the top of the fly wheel and when I pushed down on the engine cover, the rubbing noise stopped and the dcv went up to 12dcv, but the mower volt meter did not show a positive charge. I did this several times and now the external meter is showing up to 20 dcv with the throttle increased but the volt meter on the mower is showing a positive charge. HELP.......
I tried all but the first test. Everything appeared ok. I did find a bad ground at the rectifier and fixed that. I tested the output of the rectifier and it was showing 15-16 dcv at full throttle. The volt meter was almost pegged. This is a brand new rectifier. I let the engine run for a little while and then started cutting the lawn. I got half way through the first cut and a fuse blew for the charging system. I replaced the fuse and tried all three of the various rectifiers and all showed the same output at full throttle: 15-16 dcv. I then ran the engine at half throttle and was able to finish the front portion of the lawn. Why would a 20amp fuse blow with only 15-16 dcv going through it? I had 13-14 dcv at the battery.
#10
EngineMan
You have a short somewhere and this may not be in the charging system, you say that there are chewed wires, I would recheck them.
It also seems odd that you can cut at half throttle and not blow the fuse, vibration perhaps..!
1 Stator
2 Rectifier/Regulator
3 battery
which you say you have replaced, so have a good look at the wiring/connections, you should also check the key switch.
Well yesterday I started the mower to cut the back acre. The volt meter pegged upon starting and so I started cutting the lawn at half throttle. As I was cutting I noticed that the meter had dropped to about half way to the positive. I increased the throttle and the meter stayed at an acceptable level and I was able to cut the entire lawn at full throttle. I ran out if gas towards the end. After refueling I started her up and the meter pegged to the positive again. I left the throttle at half and about 3-5 minutes later I saw the meter go down and finished the lawn at full throttle. Any idea what gives? Doesn't seem like a short would cause this. Any ideas? Is this normal?
Please check the following. Measure DCV at the battery on startup when you say your meter is pegging. I have seen more than one bad meter. Second, try running a separate ground wire from the regulator housing to a good engine ground. I have seen where the normal ground does not provide a good path for the regulator.
Both the charging system fuse and the electrical system fuses are in play when the machine is running and mowing. The key switch, ammeter, PTO switch are electrically between the fuses when the machine is operating.
Your clutch is the high amperage draw item followed by an electric fuel pump if your machine had DFI or EFI, or a fuel shutoff solenoid if carbureted.
Check the continuity of the electric clutch coil, should not be less than 2.2 OHMs and infinity to ground from either leg of the clutch wire connectors. This should be performed with an ohmmeter that is automatically zeroed or able to be zeroed when the leads are connected to each other. Internal resistance of the clutch coil should be done with a cold clutch. The clutch electrical connector must be disconnected to do this testing.
Initially check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at full throttle and having been run long enough to stabilize the charging system. This voltage should be 13.9-14.3 VDC and check the ammeter on the machine to see what the charging rate is, should be at zero to a slightly positive charge rate if the battery is fully capable and charged.
The voltages on my machine are 14.2 VDC at full throttle and 13.8 VDC when the deck is operating. My machine doesn't have an ammeter, but I do have an aftermarket voltage indication system installed.
Mad Mackie in CT
