Changing Oil on Bolens Push Mower

[mmitsch]

I have a Bolens push mower which we got at Lowes. I want to change the oil in it and wanted to confirm some things. Can I drain the oil using a pump, like this one at Harbor Freight? https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html. Also, how much oil do I put in and what type.

I attached pictures showing the mower type, engine type and what I think is the oil check / fill hold (yellow).

Let me know what you think and if the yellow cap if for checking / filling the oil.

Mike

 

[Fish]

Unscrew the yellow cap and look at the cap. It should look like this..

 

[Romore]

Easiest way is tipping the mower on its side to drain the oil, sharpen the blade and clean the deck while you are at it. A pump won't get all of the crud. 30W API SE or higher works well in an air cooled engine working hard in a very dirty environment, 10W30 is acceptable if that is what is available. I have never used synthetic but many swear by it.

 

[mmitsch]

Unscrew the yellow cap and look at the cap. It should look like this..
View attachment 51778

Got it! I got the pump at Harbor Freight and used that too. It worked great! Got fresh oil in the mower and am goiod to go!

Thanks!

Mike

 

[bertsmobile1]

I use nothing but a pump .
Put the front right wheel on an old brick, lump of 2 x 4 whatever you have that is between 1" & about 4" high .
Then drain the oil with the pump .
It will be good enough .
No oil change ever gets100% of the old oil out and I find pumps quick clean & very convienant .
Good for sucking up oils spils from the workshop floor as well.
The important thing is to change the oil when it is hot.
Best done immediately after the last mow of the season,every season.

 

[HarmonySeeker]

I have a Bolens push mower which we got at Lowes. I want to change the oil in it and wanted to confirm some things. Can I drain the oil using a pump, like this one at Harbor Freight? https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html. Also, how much oil do I put in and what type.

I attached pictures showing the mower type, engine type and what I think is the oil check / fill hold (yellow).

Let me know what you think and if the yellow cap if for checking / filling the oil.

Mike

I just changed oil on a motor the same as yours yesterday.
I took the time to undo the plug in the bottom and let it drain for half an hour.
I was aghast at how much sludge was in the bottom of the drain pan when I poured it out.
That certainly would not have come out if I had used a pump.
My Two Cents

 

[bertsmobile1]

I just changed oil on a motor the same as yours yesterday.
I took the time to undo the plug in the bottom and let it drain for half an hour.
I was aghast at how much sludge was in the bottom of the drain pan when I poured it out.
That certainly would not have come out if I had used a pump.
My Two Cents

Once a monthor so I have to take the bottom of my pump to remove the sludge build up because it takes up better than 1/4 of the pump's capacity.
If the oil is hot & the engine freshly run 90+ % of the particulates will be in suspension.
This is what a detergent oil is specifically designed to do so the pump has no problems removing it.

 

[HarmonySeeker]

Once a monthor so I have to take the bottom of my pump to remove the sludge build up because it takes up better than 1/4 of the pump's capacity.
If the oil is hot & the engine freshly run 90+ % of the particulates will be in suspension.
This is what a detergent oil is specifically designed to do so the pump has no problems removing it.

This is true, but I did my spring maintenance first thing after the unit sat all winter undisturbed.
I can't see the value of running a motor on compromised oil until hot, slinging the old, sludgy particulates all over the motor interior, and THEN wait for it all to drain out eventually.
Why not just remove the lower plug right away and let it run out, saving time and wear on the motor and a possible burn handling hot oil? After sitting a few months, I would surmise all the sludge is in the bottom of the pan.
Hey to each his own. As noted, it was only my two cents.... Well spent, it appears.

 

[ILENGINE]

The thing is most push mower engines and some even on tillers don't have a bottom drain plug. Imagine having to turn your front tine tiller with the vertical crankshaft engine on its side to drain the oil. There are a lot of cases where removing the drain plug or turning the engine on its side are not practical. Oil pumps do a better job than most people realize, and even some auto dealers suck the oil out of the dipstick tube on cars

 

[HarmonySeeker]

Easiest way is tipping the mower on its side to drain the oil, sharpen the blade and clean the deck while you are at it. A pump won't get all of the crud. 30W API SE or higher works well in an air cooled engine working hard in a very dirty environment, 10W30 is acceptable if that is what is available. I have never used synthetic but many swear by it.

Honda says tipping is the way to drain their push mower engines. I am guessing that may be the most likely reason they dont put bottom drain plugs on them.
These days, most push mower engines are Honda or clones. That's why most push mower engines do not have bottom drain plugs in them. See how that works?
But I doubt B&S agrees. The way a B&S sump is constructed, it visually appears it would tend to hold some oil. I use synthetic because everything else I own does.
If I may be allowed to belabor this expired equine further, can anyone show me a copy of a B&S manual that says pumping is the preferred way to change motor oil?
Have a Good Day!