Carburetor Removal

[petermc]

I want to remove my mower carb so that I can clean it. This is a Victa V40 engine as shown in the picture.

I remove the air filter housing, and this exposes the carb plus the gasket. But the carburetor is sitting on 2 long bolts, which don't appear to be removable. I can't disconnect the throttle cables. It normally requires the carburetor to be rotated to remove them.

If I pull the carburetor out from the bolts it tightens the cables and so it doesn't want to come off like that.

What can I do to remove it without breaking the throttle cables?

I have pointed out one of the bolts here,

 

[Boobala]

Send a PM to bertsmobile1 on this site .... he's from down under and really is the go-to guy for a lot of (foreign to us ) equipment.
dont forget ......model ,serial numbers etc. ( bert FAILED Mindreading 101 ya know ) .......best of luck ....Boobala ..:thumbsup:

 

[NorthBama]

the end of the long bolt may be reverse torx bolt. you will need a reverse torx socket to remove. need a close up picture of bolt end to determine

 

[BlazNT]

I circled in red what should be a bolt head. It is used to remove the bolt the rest of the way from the engines in the US. I could be wrong for your mower.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I do not answer PM's if it is a technical issue beecause it defeats the purpose of being on an open pubic forum.

Remove the air filter.
There should be a screw hidden under the cover with Victa cast into it near the fuel tank 5/16" I think.
You will need a slim deep socket, tube spannar or 1/4 socket with extensions to get it out.
Now take off the two nuts on the carb and remove the air filter housing.
Slide the carb along the studs untill the throttle control rod can be pulled directly up out of the slot and with a pair of needle noses or tweezers then remove the spring
The carb will now slide completely off the studs and you roll it over to the right to remove the choke control rod.
It comes off exactly the same as any Honda stationary engine and there is thousands of those videos on You tube.
Pull off the air filter cover and a look at the carb then flip through a few to see one the same if you find it confusing.

The Ruzing carb is impossible to get parts for.
The engine is a poor copy of the CV series Honda & I was told Honda carb parts fit.
This series is one of the mowers I do not repair other than supplying air filters and blades.
The entire mower is a Chinese import and one of the reasons why B & S did the hostile take over of Victa from GMB who owed B & S a small fortune (backed by shares ) that they could not pay so B &S forclosed on the shares then bough a few more to take control. A shame really but the morons who were running the joint were absolute idiots and trashed the brand big time so while I would have liked it to stay in Aust hands if those clots ran it for much longer there would have been nothing left.
Down side is B &S offer little support for anything made by previous managements and are deliberatly over pricing the power torque parts to make them uneconomic to repair.
Ignition coils are now $ 182 wholesale so that is $ 240 to you.
Pull starts went from $ 22 to $ 95 wholesale.
So we are currently looking to have coils made in Europe and chasing local die casters to make the pull starters.

 

[petermc]

Haha. I figured out today that this was a copy. I thought it was a honda engine, but then I came across the chonda term for the victor engines.

Are you trying to say this mower is crap and is likely to break down?

I have a honda carburetor on the way from China. Opps. That'll be a copy too. It might be crap, but we'll see.

Lots of youtube clips showed the procedure when the bolts come out, so I gave up looking. But thanks for the tip. I eventually found this,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMw91fiIXNc

Not exactly the same, but it gives me a good idea. Your help is much appreciated bertsmobile1. Thanks.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yeah the throttle is the tricky bit .
Your choke has a Z bend but you can pull the carb right off and wiggle it off.
The motor itself seems OK they don't give too much trouble, it is all the other bits.
The pull start eats starter pauls, the fuel tank mounts break off and the body cracks & splits every where.
Over here they were the cheapest mower available and sold through K Mart or Big W.
I think the engine only just makes 3 horses and they are tiny pinto ponies to boot.
Handle bar mounts pull through and the filter clogs up really quickly
And the rocker cover warps when you try to pull it off as it is glued in with silicon.
Take care removing it. Daub it with old foul petrol.
I keep fuel that has gone off for this.
Silicon is solubile in petrol
If you have a small yard probably fine but they were a throw away.

If it is yours and the repairs go less than $ 100 or so then fine fix it but keep in mind the chassis only has a short service life and only then if you keep it clean.
What ever grade of tinfoil the chassis is stamped out of, once the paint flakes off it will rust through in no time flat.
While you are waiting for the parts pull the mower off and check the mounting bolt holes for cracking also check the handle bar mounts for cracking.
Repaint with a good exterior enamel or cold gal to keep the rust at bay.
Remove the wheels and check for rusty axles which bind up the wheels, lube with some dry lubricant that is nylon safe ( not WD 40 ). I use Tri Lube which I get from push bike shops.
Also check the height adjuster spring which are prone to cracking as well.
If you get it running fit the really wide mulch & catch blades which add a lot of momentum to the blade plate and make for easier starting.

 

[petermc]

Thanks. Yeah the mower is about 8 years old I would guess. It has only been used on my property which is pretty small and I don't mow as often as I should.

The carburetor was cleaned out a few years ago at the shop as it wouldn't go out of choke without dying.

The body is pretty good so far, not rusty as far as I can remember.

The pull cord is a shocker. Yes. Replaced once in the last few years, and it looks like it needs another replacement now.

I noticed that the handle bar mounts were pretty rough from day one, it has eaten through the paint.

I just fitted new blades, but next year I will try the mulch & catch blades. That is a good tip. How do I know what mulch and catch blades to use? Does that add extra blades?

So far the repair bill will be about $40, so that is not too bad.

 

[bertsmobile1]

No it is a direct replacement for the two swing backs you have already.
If you try and put the 4 blade mulch & catch disc on with 4 blades that motor just does not have the balls to spin it.
Victa put the 190cc Honda engine on the mulch & catch and that engine is generally reserved for self propelled mowers as the 160 was struggleing with the extra load.
The victa number is CA09434S
However you are better off going for the aftermarket ones that come with a inhex in the bolt head as they are easier to remove
GA ( gripski ) BNC5883 or Stens / Bynorm 900-255P

Both of these are thicker steel so must be used with their thicker bolts
Do not get the Jack Max ones they are trash made in China.

 

[petermc]

I have taken the carburetor off and given it a good clean.

But I noticed something even more obvious. When I start my lawn mower the choke lever doesn't move, so my mower never has the choke enabled.

I turned it manually and it made startup much easier.

I tightened the throttle cable as per this youtube clip, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WWpeyDbHjA, and hey presto it seems to be working much better now.