Can't Find Tire Leak

jes_in_sac

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My mower is only for the grass and weeds, since there is no lawn on the farm. I tried everything... tubes, slime... but finally, the only thing that worked was lugged tires on the mower. Haven't had a problem with either of those rear tires since, and that's been probably 15 yrs ago. Now the front tires, they are always a pain, and I should find some lugged tires for those too, if they make them that small.
Get yourself a mini-tire changer [fairly cheap at Harbor Freight]. It won't keep the tire from picking up stuff and going flat, but at least it makes that part doable. I just clamp it in my vise on the bench to work on those small tires. I think that I'm doing plugs from now on though, since I haven't had much luck with inner tubes, and actually took them out of some of my tires, since they ended up being even more trouble. I don't trust plugs on high-speed tires on a car, but on a mower tire, it's got to be easier up front and easy to fix if it pops out again. And yes, I have found slow leaks on the wheel itself from a porous weld. Loctite makes an anaerobic weld porosity sealer that works great on those tiny leaks in metal.
 

Forest#2

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Looks like the OP has ghosted us but:
I repair my own lawn tractor/trailer tire flats.
I've had problems locating really slow leaks in tubeless tires also, sometimes even using a water tub will not show a aggravating seep.

I have two spray soap bottles. One has a large dose of Dawn dish soap.
The other main leak detector has just little bit of dish soap in water. Large leaks can usually be detected by bubbles, but small seeps will usually produce a white frost with the larger dose of dish soap solution.


For very small slow leaks I air the tire up to max using a very accurate tire gauge, for example a lawn tractor tire rated for 14psi will get at least 14 and sometimes 20psi. I always start the test at the lower rated air pressure stamped on the tire.
For a slow leak/seep I then spray the complete tire and stem area and around the bead with the tire laying flat. Just walk away and go back in 5 min or longer and look for what appears to be white frost. It's a seep.
Do the same thing with the tire/rim upside down. Also tilt the rim and spray around the valve stem and let it set for while and slightly wiggle the stem.
I've seen some that would not leak until being driven.
Like the guys say, a good new inner tube now days will cost $20 plus labor and new tire almost same, so go figure.

Be really careful when installing max air pressure into small welded rims or any tires.
I've seen them welded small rims split in half due to air pressure.

No need in even trying to fix it yourself if you cannot break the tire bead from the rim yourself. go ahead and take it to a tire shop. (unless you want to use the sealers) I do not use fix a flat or slime.
 

mcvoss

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Guys,

I'm still here been reading all of the comments. One thing I learned on here is do not use sealant, EVER. I appreciate that advice because I almost did, even bought a can.

The valve stem is good, used soap on it. The tires and mower are in great shape, the mower is garage kept no rust etc. At this point I'm going to borrow a baby pool, from my son, see if submerging the tire will show a leak. If not I guess I'll just buy a new tire, I hate doing it but what the hell.

I do appreciate all of the comments.

Michael
 

schreib69

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Hey Guys,
I'll solve your problem for you. Go to Amazon and search for a product called "Flat Out". It contains kevlar and is used by the military in everything from trucks to airplanes. It is not slimy and can be washed out with water if tire needs to be dismounted. They claim one application for life of tire. I use it on my personal tires and have not had a flat or leak down yet. And it is affordable and comes in all sizes.
 

schreib69

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Looks like the OP has ghosted us but:
I repair my own lawn tractor/trailer tire flats.
I've had problems locating really slow leaks in tubeless tires also, sometimes even using a water tub will not show a aggravating seep.

I have two spray soap bottles. One has a large dose of Dawn dish soap.
The other main leak detector has just little bit of dish soap in water. Large leaks can usually be detected by bubbles, but small seeps will usually produce a white frost with the larger dose of dish soap solution.


For very small slow leaks I air the tire up to max using a very accurate tire gauge, for example a lawn tractor tire rated for 14psi will get at least 14 and sometimes 20psi.
I would go as high as 50 psi.
 

jviews12

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innertube??? also clean all rust before inserting.
 

rhkraft

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Hey Everyone,

I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.

Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.

My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,

MIchael
How old is the tire? Are the sidewalls cracked. Has it setting around a while in a flat condition. That can cause cracks in the side wall. The bathtub is good if you can't a small wash tub or minnow tank. Use the bath tib when your wife is gone but clean it after and do a good job. Try an auto tire repair shop. That 's what I do with mine. If you have a sturdy bench you can break the bead. Take out the valve core. Lay the tire on the floor under the bench. Get an old shovel handle or other strong wood.. Get a 2X4 about 3 feet long. Set square end of the shovel handle and set it on the bead. Hold it verticle and use the 2XC4 as a lever setting it on top of the shovel handle and one end under the edge of the bench. Hold the tire with one foot and push down on the 2X4 using the shovel handle to break the bead. Break the other side. Feel inside tire for a nail. If you find it you know where the leak is. Use a patch and don't use slime unless the sidewalls are cracked. Good luck!
 

rhkraft

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How old is the tire? Are the sidewalls cracked. Has it setting around a while in a flat condition. That can cause cracks in the side wall. The bathtub is good if you can't a small wash tub or minnow tank. Use the bath tib when your wife is gone but clean it after and do a good job. Try an auto tire repair shop. That 's what I do with mine. If you have a sturdy bench you can break the bead. Take out the valve core. Lay the tire on the floor under the bench. Get an old shovel handle or other strong wood.. Get a 2X4 about 3 feet long. Set square end of the shovel handle and set it on the bead. Hold it verticle and use the 2XC4 as a lever setting it on top of the shovel handle and one end under the edge of the bench. Hold the tire with one foot and push down on the 2X4 using the shovel handle to break the bead. Break the other side. Feel inside tire for a nail. If you find it you know where the leak is. Use a patch and don't use slime unless the sidewalls are cracked. Good luck!
An inner tuibe is also a good choice for cracked sidewalls.
 

biggertv

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ATF. Remove the valve stem and using a pump oil can, squirt enough to lightly coat the entire inside of the tire. I didn't believe it either, But It Works. I used ATF4 and other types probably work too. It does seal small holes, especially Weather Cracks on sidewall. Inflate immediately and drive for a while to evenly distribute, not too fast, don't want to sling it all to the center. May require a second treatment. I no longer have to fill old mower tires every week.
 

JimP2014

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I did recommend a sealant on the big A and that's what I used and if the only thing I had to fix was a flat tire I would have probably reset it on the rim and see if there was some sort of issue after making sure the rim was cool and then if all else failed just get a new tire like 30 bucks 40 bucks , but last summer I was dealing with a carburetor problem a broken muffler problem a keyway problem twice at least a mower deck belt problem a battery problem and last but not least a tire problem regarding the tire problem I took the path of least resistance praying it would work and it did so that's the whole picture for me anyways in the sealant that I bought did work on my second attempt.

Jim
 
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