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Can't Find Tire Leak
#1
M
mcvoss
M
mcvoss
Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#2
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
With a leak that slow slime won't have much effect. Best option is while you have the tire off the mower. Just soap a small section say 1/4 of the tire and just keep an eye on that area to look for a small patch of bubbles. Then move to the next section. Really slow leaks can be hard to detect and tend to make really small bubbles. Doesn't hurt to also check the side walls really well at the same time. I have had times were I would soap a section and then walk away for a few minutes and come back and recheck. Good luck.
#3
M
mcvoss
I see you're in Beecher, my wife and I grew up in Decatur.
Michael
M
mcvoss
Thanks, I'll recheck. Thanks for letting me know about the slime. What do you think about the bathtub idea, I used to submerge an intertube in the tub when I was a kid. Mom didn't appreciate that but I always found the leak.With a leak that slow slime won't have much effect. Best option is while you have the tire off the mower. Just soap a small section say 1/4 of the tire and just keep an eye on that area to look for a small patch of bubbles. Then move to the next section. Really slow leaks can be hard to detect and tend to make really small bubbles. Doesn't hurt to also check the side walls really well at the same time. I have had times were I would soap a section and then walk away for a few minutes and come back and recheck. Good luck.
I see you're in Beecher, my wife and I grew up in Decatur.
Michael
#4
StarTech
StarTech
Last resort...Find a tub big enough to completely submerge the tire and rim assembly. Then fill the tub completely with water. This will even show up a rim internal weld problem. Rare but does happen.
#5
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
I'd submerge the entire thing.
I remember i had a truck tire that would slowly go down over a week or so.
took it to a local shop and they submerged it in a tank of water and kept it under for an hour, every so often,i'm talking maybe every 6 or 7 minutes, a few bubbles would come from the base of a raised tread.
I remember i had a truck tire that would slowly go down over a week or so.
took it to a local shop and they submerged it in a tank of water and kept it under for an hour, every so often,i'm talking maybe every 6 or 7 minutes, a few bubbles would come from the base of a raised tread.
#6
G
GrumpyCat
G
GrumpyCat
Time to either buy a new tire or put Slime in the tire you have. Slime is high viscosity and will seep very slowly through wherever your leak is located. You may never see Slime on the outside of the tire. It may totally fix your leak.
#7
StarTech
StarTech
But later have mess to clean up and rust to remove. Just cleaner to install an inner tube vs the slime mess.
You however have remove the thorns, screws, and nails.
You however have remove the thorns, screws, and nails.
#8
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
As someone who’s had to repair more than my share of tires where Slime or other sealing products have been used, it is not a cure all and you definitely will have a mess if the tire has to be removed in the future. I inform customers that if I find it there will be at least an extra 1/2 labor to do the job. I had one customer tell me “NO SLIME” when replacing 4 tires on his UTV. When I found SLIME in first tire called him to inform him what I found. Didn’t believe me. Told him to come in and I’ll take the next tire off in front of him. He did and when he saw the inside he got on his phone. Found out his som-in-law had put it in when he found thorns in it while using it. Ended up with 4.5 hours of labor plus cost of the tires. Neither him or I were happy campers.
#9
Tiger Small Engine
There are better products on the market than Slime, and they have their place, mainly when dry rot is the issue.
If you install a tube, as soon as you hit a nail, thorn, glass, etc., you are back to square one. Plus you have to deal with the inner tube as well as the flat tire.
Tiger Small Engine
But later have mess to clean up and rust to remove. Just cleaner to install an inner tube vs the slime mess.
You however have remove the thorns, screws, and nails.
There are better products on the market than Slime, and they have their place, mainly when dry rot is the issue.
If you install a tube, as soon as you hit a nail, thorn, glass, etc., you are back to square one. Plus you have to deal with the inner tube as well as the flat tire.
#10
StarTech
But I did something along during the time and that is the 24 x 10.00 requires a tube smaller than the one Carlisle says goes in that size tire as several other customer had tube related problems.
StarTech
Yes but that happens even with new pneumatic tires. I got a neighbor that I installed two new tires and within a week had three flats. It is cheaper to patch inner tubes than buy new tires. Once he got rid of the thorn sources no more flats.There are better products on the market than Slime, and they have their place, mainly when dry rot is the issue.
If you install a tube, as soon as you hit a nail, thorn, glass, etc., you are back to square one. Plus you have to deal with the inner tube as well as the flat tire.
But I did something along during the time and that is the 24 x 10.00 requires a tube smaller than the one Carlisle says goes in that size tire as several other customer had tube related problems.
#11
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I'm not sure if you're still having a problem but I have a lt2000 the rear tire kept going flat and like little engine mentioned I tried that slime stuff and that did not work but what I did find that works and is still working because it's still holding air is a product called road instant flat fix something like that but I bought it on the big a let's call it.
So I wasted the 15 bucks on the slime stuff but for 13 bucks I got this other product
So I wasted the 15 bucks on the slime stuff but for 13 bucks I got this other product
#12
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I'm not sure if you're still having a problem but I have a lt2000 the rear tire kept going flat and like little engine mentioned I tried that slime stuff and that did not work but what I did find that works and is still working because it's still holding air is a product called road instant flat fix something like that but I bought it on the big a let's call it.
So I wasted the 15 bucks on the slime stuff but for 13 bucks I got this other product
Attachments
#13
Tiger Small Engine
When you get a puncture in a tire with no inner tube, you can simply plug it. With a tire that has an inner tube and gets a puncture, you end up putting in a plug. Much more time and cost saving to plug vs. putting in tube.
Fix A Flat usually doesn’t work well and often rusts out the wheel long term. So then you have to clean and prep wheel once the tire goes flat to accept a tire to hold air right.
I fix a fair amount of tires on mowers. Tire plugs, bead sealer, and good tire sealant is usually the answer, most of the time in that order.
Tiger Small Engine
Yes but that happens even with new pneumatic tires. I got a neighbor that I installed two new tires and within a week had three flats. It is cheaper to patch inner tubes than buy new tires. Once he got rid of the thorn sources no more flats.
But I did something along during the time and that is the 24 x 10.00 requires a tube smaller than the one Carlisle says goes in that size tire as several other customer had tube related problems.
When you get a puncture in a tire with no inner tube, you can simply plug it. With a tire that has an inner tube and gets a puncture, you end up putting in a plug. Much more time and cost saving to plug vs. putting in tube.
Fix A Flat usually doesn’t work well and often rusts out the wheel long term. So then you have to clean and prep wheel once the tire goes flat to accept a tire to hold air right.
I fix a fair amount of tires on mowers. Tire plugs, bead sealer, and good tire sealant is usually the answer, most of the time in that order.
#14
StarTech
StarTech
Well there is one problem with tire plugs. Most of you are using the automotive string type. These don't seal in the long term due to the automotive type are meant to be cured by the road heat generated while the vehicle is moving. Lawnmower tires just don't heat up to cure these plugs.
Now there are rubber type mushroom plugs that much better and are meant for off road use.
Another problem with string plugs is that if you do later want to install an inner tube, they will wear a hole in the tube due to ball of string inside the tire. Now rubber mushroom plugs are less likely to do this.
And a hint of patching inner tubes. Use some talc powder or similar dusting powder on the patch area after installing the patch. This is keep the patch area from sticking to the tire inner liner as tubes must be free to move around a little.
Another hint here is not using the 24x12-12 tubes in the 24x12-12 tires. You use 23x10.50-12 tubes. The problem of the 24x12-12 tubes in the 24x12-12 is the tubes are too big for the tires. Once you use the 24x12-12 tubes, they will fold and rub holes in themselves. When you pull these tubes and air them up they look a pair of pointed breasts with heavy cleavage. It is at this cleavage point where they wear holes and are not patch-able. I have well test the smaller tube in these 24x12-12 tires.
Now there are rubber type mushroom plugs that much better and are meant for off road use.
Another problem with string plugs is that if you do later want to install an inner tube, they will wear a hole in the tube due to ball of string inside the tire. Now rubber mushroom plugs are less likely to do this.
And a hint of patching inner tubes. Use some talc powder or similar dusting powder on the patch area after installing the patch. This is keep the patch area from sticking to the tire inner liner as tubes must be free to move around a little.
Another hint here is not using the 24x12-12 tubes in the 24x12-12 tires. You use 23x10.50-12 tubes. The problem of the 24x12-12 tubes in the 24x12-12 is the tubes are too big for the tires. Once you use the 24x12-12 tubes, they will fold and rub holes in themselves. When you pull these tubes and air them up they look a pair of pointed breasts with heavy cleavage. It is at this cleavage point where they wear holes and are not patch-able. I have well test the smaller tube in these 24x12-12 tires.
#15
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
Never had any issues with using the string rubberized window sealing sticky strips that are commonly used for tire plugs. And if I later go back to install a tube just pull all the plugs out and put in the tube.
#16
StarTech
Or least that is the case with punctures from some of the sage grasses and other tough weeds. Heck even I get punctures myself from those things and it is not the tires that getting punctured either.
StarTech
Unless you boot those areas you just asking an easy puncture. Some tires I have tubed has so many plugs in the same hole that the inner tube just sticks out when I remove the plugs.Never had any issues with using the string rubberized window sealing sticky strips that are commonly used for tire plugs. And if I later go back to install a tube just pull all the plugs out and put in the tube.
Or least that is the case with punctures from some of the sage grasses and other tough weeds. Heck even I get punctures myself from those things and it is not the tires that getting punctured either.
#17
G
GrumpyCat
G
GrumpyCat
You put the other product in a tire that already had Slime in it?I'm not sure if you're still having a problem but I have a lt2000 the rear tire kept going flat and like little engine mentioned I tried that slime stuff and that did not work but what I did find that works and is still working because it's still holding air is a product called road instant flat fix something like that but I bought it on the big a let's call it.
So I wasted the 15 bucks on the slime stuff but for 13 bucks I got this other product
#18
sgkent
sgkent
maybe get one of those cheap plastic storage containers, or empty one you have stuff in for a couple days, fill it with water, and use that to look for the leak.
#19
J
JimP2014
And I thought about this after I made my original post and I was wondering if the slime product although it did not work acted as a primer in some way and helped the second product I used to truly stop air coming out of the tire and in the mowing season of say 2023 I can't recall a problem at all with a tire and then in the mowing season of 2024 is when that tire had a problem. Right now the air temperature outside is about 18° f and it's been very cold for several days in a row and I was thinking of going out in the next couple days and checking the tire pressure on that tire to see what it is.
Jim
J
JimP2014
You are correct I used the slime product and that did not work and then I used that other product called road instant fixes flat tire.You put the other product in a tire that already had Slime in it?
And I thought about this after I made my original post and I was wondering if the slime product although it did not work acted as a primer in some way and helped the second product I used to truly stop air coming out of the tire and in the mowing season of say 2023 I can't recall a problem at all with a tire and then in the mowing season of 2024 is when that tire had a problem. Right now the air temperature outside is about 18° f and it's been very cold for several days in a row and I was thinking of going out in the next couple days and checking the tire pressure on that tire to see what it is.
Jim
#20
Tiger Small Engine
The amount of time it takes to remove a tire, break the bead, install a tube, and order or pick up the tube, and cost of tube, has all got to be accounted for and charged to the customer. By the time you add it up, you can almost buy a tire online new and install it.
Tiger Small Engine
I have no come backs on tires I repair by putting in string plugs.Never had any issues with using the string rubberized window sealing sticky strips that are commonly used for tire plugs. And if I later go back to install a tube just pull all the plugs out and put in the tube.
The amount of time it takes to remove a tire, break the bead, install a tube, and order or pick up the tube, and cost of tube, has all got to be accounted for and charged to the customer. By the time you add it up, you can almost buy a tire online new and install it.
#21
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Grumpy cat forgive me if you did not discuss the possibility of rust if it wasn't you then it was someone else but I thought about that too I can tell you in this house there's cast iron and after 70 years the rust went right through the cast iron so it created a small hole but if rush develops because of these compounds then I can't see it rusting through a rim or the rubber of the tire in anything less than say 10 years and then suppose it does at that point you get a new rim and a tire probably too.You are correct I used the slime product and that did not work and then I used that other product called road instant fixes flat tire.
And I thought about this after I made my original post and I was wondering if the slime product although it did not work acted as a primer in some way and helped the second product I used to truly stop air coming out of the tire and in the mowing season of say 2023 I can't recall a problem at all with a tire and then in the mowing season of 2024 is when that tire had a problem. Right now the air temperature outside is about 18° f and it's been very cold for several days in a row and I was thinking of going out in the next couple days and checking the tire pressure on that tire to see what it is.
Jim
Jim
#22
StarTech
StarTech
You just haven't seen the damage that I have seen then. I have seen rim bead area so rusty that the only choices left is either a new rim or clean them up and install a tube.
BTW rubber tires can't rust except for the wire in the beads which is normally fully in cased.
BTW rubber tires can't rust except for the wire in the beads which is normally fully in cased.
#23
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I got you but for me I used that fix flat stuff whatever maybe about 5 months ago and I'll see how it does for me as far as what you're referring to and just overall does the tire hold there or not.You just haven't seen the damage that I have seen then. I have seen rim bead area so rusty that the only choices left is either a new rim or clean them up and install a tube.
BTW rubber tires can't rust except for the wire in the beads which is normally fully in cased.
Jim
#24
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Does it hold air or not in the future. I will see on that also if it warms up today I definitely want to get a PSI on that tire or both in the rearI got you but for me I used that fix flat stuff whatever maybe about 5 months ago and I'll see how it does for me as far as what you're referring to and just overall does the tire hold there or not.
Jim
#25
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
I have seen more than my share of fix a flat corroded rims that look like they have been filled with hydrochloric acid.You just haven't seen the damage that I have seen then. I have seen rim bead area so rusty that the only choices left is either a new rim or clean them up and install a tube.
BTW rubber tires can't rust except for the wire in the beads which is normally fully in cased.
#26
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Okay the product I bought is called road instant fix it's not Fix-A-Flat I don't know what the difference is and time will tell on that but as far as I know it's not the same product it's probably as different as slime I didn't look into the ingredients on any of them I just used it and it worked for me.I have seen more than my share of fix a flat corroded rims that look like they have been filled with hydrochloric acid.
Jim
#27
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
I don't have any comebacks with string plugs either, but run into cases where the side walls leak air to the point that soap looks like bubble strings on the side of tires. And the issue sometimes with just replacing the tire is coming up with a matching tread or in some cases matching brand depending on the customer. And some of those tires can get quite expensive.I have no come backs on tires I repair by putting in string plugs.
The amount of time it takes to remove a tire, break the bead, install a tube, and order or pick up the tube, and cost of tube, has all got to be accounted for and charged to the customer. By the time you add it up, you can almost buy a tire online new and install it.
#28
G
GrumpyCat
I have changed tires which were treated with Slime. Didn't find it to be the mess others claim to have experienced. Should know one is dealing with Slime after breaking the first bead. At that point take it outside, put a garden hose in the tire, flush it out. Or sometimes not, depends on how much they put in and how much remains. Slime tends to leak out over time, it is highly viscous so it flows through the leak slower than air.
The worst rusted rims I have seen did not have anything but air in the tire. No Slime. But rusted bad enough to be concerned about the bead sealing. That one took a half hour or more with wire brush in the angle grinder. Then a coat of primer.
G
GrumpyCat
If anything I would have thought the Slime would prevent the other product from working. Slime is wet and stays wet.You are correct I used the slime product and that did not work and then I used that other product called road instant fixes flat tire.
And I thought about this after I made my original post and I was wondering if the slime product although it did not work acted as a primer in some way and helped the second product I used to truly stop air coming out of the tire and in the mowing season of say 2023 I can't recall a problem at all with a tire and then in the mowing season of 2024 is when that tire had a problem. Right now the air temperature outside is about 18° f and it's been very cold for several days in a row and I was thinking of going out in the next couple days and checking the tire pressure on that tire to see what it is.
Jim
I have changed tires which were treated with Slime. Didn't find it to be the mess others claim to have experienced. Should know one is dealing with Slime after breaking the first bead. At that point take it outside, put a garden hose in the tire, flush it out. Or sometimes not, depends on how much they put in and how much remains. Slime tends to leak out over time, it is highly viscous so it flows through the leak slower than air.
The worst rusted rims I have seen did not have anything but air in the tire. No Slime. But rusted bad enough to be concerned about the bead sealing. That one took a half hour or more with wire brush in the angle grinder. Then a coat of primer.
#29
StarTech
StarTech
Sounds like I need to start taking pictures of the ones I come across that I need to repair.
Some of the tire sealant used is so messy it isn't funny and some is even toxic.
Some of the tire sealant used is so messy it isn't funny and some is even toxic.
#30
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Every time I see more replies to this it motivates me more to get outside to make a movie like not photoshopped kind of movie just a movie of what the tire pressure is on both tires in the rear and then post it to YouTube cuz I like to know myself I see people all the time filling their car tires when the temperature drops and I honestly don't know what the tire pressure is in those two rear tires but I would like to make an unedited movie of whatever the readings are that's what they are and take it from there.If anything I would have thought the Slime would prevent the other product from working. Slime is wet and stays wet.
I have changed tires which were treated with Slime. Didn't find it to be the mess others claim to have experienced. Should know one is dealing with Slime after breaking the first bead. At that point take it outside, put a garden hose in the tire, flush it out. Or sometimes not, depends on how much they put in and how much remains. Slime tends to leak out over time, it is highly viscous so it flows through the leak slower than air.
The worst rusted rims I have seen did not have anything but air in the tire. No Slime. But rusted bad enough to be concerned about the bead sealing. That one took a half hour or more with wire brush in the angle grinder. Then a coat of primer.
Jim
#31
J
JimP2014
So it took a while I don't know why to get a reading on the rear right tire but it's about 10 lb PSI the rear left tire seems to be inflated even more I couldn't even get a reading on that again I don't know why that is the case but the one I got the 10 PSI on I'm pretty sure it was the one that was leaking air.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Every time I see more replies to this it motivates me more to get outside to make a movie like not photoshopped kind of movie just a movie of what the tire pressure is on both tires in the rear and then post it to YouTube cuz I like to know myself I see people all the time filling their car tires when the temperature drops and I honestly don't know what the tire pressure is in those two rear tires but I would like to make an unedited movie of whatever the readings are that's what they are and take it from there.
Jim
So it took a while I don't know why to get a reading on the rear right tire but it's about 10 lb PSI the rear left tire seems to be inflated even more I couldn't even get a reading on that again I don't know why that is the case but the one I got the 10 PSI on I'm pretty sure it was the one that was leaking air.
Jim
#32
StarTech
StarTech
Probably the valve stem is now clogged.
#33
J
JimP2014
I'll check it again if we get temperatures near 40° f soon I didn't spend a lot of time trying to get a reading on the other tire like maybe 5 seconds and trying to avoid getting my knees on the ground cuz I might not be able to get back up.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Okay start tech it has to warm up a bitProbably the valve stem is now clogged.
I'll check it again if we get temperatures near 40° f soon I didn't spend a lot of time trying to get a reading on the other tire like maybe 5 seconds and trying to avoid getting my knees on the ground cuz I might not be able to get back up.
Jim
#34
J
JimP2014
I told you I couldn't get a reading which was true what I failed to say is I actually got the video of me letting air out of the tire so there's nothing wrong with the valve stem being clogged
J
JimP2014
Okay start tech it has to warm up a bit
I'll check it again if we get temperatures near 40° f soon I didn't spend a lot of time trying to get a reading on the other tire like maybe 5 seconds and trying to avoid getting my knees on the ground cuz I might not be able to get back up.
Jim
#35
StarTech
StarTech
Simply you can let air would had been enough. But I seen the valve cores clogged and sometime even the sealant gets into the air gauge. Just need a second gauge to use and make sure things are okay. I have had tire gauges to fail here and that why I have at least two around all the time.
#36
J
JimP2014
Tire and in fact maybe during the summer that 10 psi was really like 14 psi and the temperature's been around 18° f , I don't know if that accounts for all the air loss I could fill it up now just to see but I really think the tire that had the problem was the lower right rear which is the one I was able to get a reading from which is the 10 psi.
But this is a separate unrelated issue but if that whole thing gets screwed up and this is my thinking from the get-go I really want a larger tire because on the highest setting for the mower deck it's not high enough in fact I see that complaint quite often and I don't work in the business of lawn mower repair I only look because I was trying to figure out how to fix it and apparently you could increase the tire pressure on what you got or maybe get larger rims and tires to get the thing off the ground more I don't know what you think about this and it's not on topic but that's why I didn't care about what happens to this tire and rim because I was thinking of replacing both in the rear maybe I need to do the front too I don't know but the highest setting is not high enough for the mower deck.
Send from my phone please excuse typos.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Yeah but I wasn't really testing the valve stem and I'm wondering about what you're saying regarding the gauges cuz it's a real pia to use that gauge I would prefer one where you can just press down on the valve stem without some sort of angle feature built into the tire pressure gauge itself I haven't looked but that would be ideal you just press directly onto the valve stem and you get the reading but having said all that I can tell you an inspection it has way more air than the 10 psi on the right rearSimply you can let air would had been enough. But I seen the valve cores clogged and sometime even the sealant gets into the air gauge. Just need a second gauge to use and make sure things are okay. I have had tire gauges to fail here and that why I have at least two around all the time.
Tire and in fact maybe during the summer that 10 psi was really like 14 psi and the temperature's been around 18° f , I don't know if that accounts for all the air loss I could fill it up now just to see but I really think the tire that had the problem was the lower right rear which is the one I was able to get a reading from which is the 10 psi.
But this is a separate unrelated issue but if that whole thing gets screwed up and this is my thinking from the get-go I really want a larger tire because on the highest setting for the mower deck it's not high enough in fact I see that complaint quite often and I don't work in the business of lawn mower repair I only look because I was trying to figure out how to fix it and apparently you could increase the tire pressure on what you got or maybe get larger rims and tires to get the thing off the ground more I don't know what you think about this and it's not on topic but that's why I didn't care about what happens to this tire and rim because I was thinking of replacing both in the rear maybe I need to do the front too I don't know but the highest setting is not high enough for the mower deck.
Send from my phone please excuse typos.
Jim
#37
Tiger Small Engine
When a tire has sidewall dry rot I try a sealant which sometimes works and sometimes does not. If it works, great, if it doesn’t then I only lost the cost of some sealant. The last thing I am going to do is remove the tire, break the bead, get and install a tube, fight with putting the tube in, and charge the customer for labor and tube. So in a case like that, it is simple, I don’t install tubes because it is a pain in the butt. Not offering a service such as installing tubes in tires comes from personal experience. When you run your own business you don’t have to do every little thing a customer wants.
You can usually adjust the deck height with the deck hangers and front hook up. On level concrete surface, at correct tire pressure, break out the tape measure and get your measurements and go from there.
Tiger Small Engine
Tires are like batteries, there is more to it then meets the eye. Ideally you want a low pressure tire gauge to check tire pressure.Yeah but I wasn't really testing the valve stem and I'm wondering about what you're saying regarding the gauges cuz it's a real pia to use that gauge I would prefer one where you can just press down on the valve stem without some sort of angle feature built into the tire pressure gauge itself I haven't looked but that would be ideal you just press directly onto the valve stem and you get the reading but having said all that I can tell you an inspection it has way more air than the 10 psi on the right rear
Tire and in fact maybe during the summer that 10 psi was really like 14 psi and the temperature's been around 18° f , I don't know if that accounts for all the air loss I could fill it up now just to see but I really think the tire that had the problem was the lower right rear which is the one I was able to get a reading from which is the 10 psi.
But this is a separate unrelated issue but if that whole thing gets screwed up and this is my thinking from the get-go I really want a larger tire because on the highest setting for the mower deck it's not high enough in fact I see that complaint quite often and I don't work in the business of lawn mower repair I only look because I was trying to figure out how to fix it and apparently you could increase the tire pressure on what you got or maybe get larger rims and tires to get the thing off the ground more I don't know what you think about this and it's not on topic but that's why I didn't care about what happens to this tire and rim because I was thinking of replacing both in the rear maybe I need to do the front too I don't know but the highest setting is not high enough for the mower deck.
Send from my phone please excuse typos.
Jim
When a tire has sidewall dry rot I try a sealant which sometimes works and sometimes does not. If it works, great, if it doesn’t then I only lost the cost of some sealant. The last thing I am going to do is remove the tire, break the bead, get and install a tube, fight with putting the tube in, and charge the customer for labor and tube. So in a case like that, it is simple, I don’t install tubes because it is a pain in the butt. Not offering a service such as installing tubes in tires comes from personal experience. When you run your own business you don’t have to do every little thing a customer wants.
You can usually adjust the deck height with the deck hangers and front hook up. On level concrete surface, at correct tire pressure, break out the tape measure and get your measurements and go from there.
#38
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Okay I'll take your advice on those hanger things I really think they're maxed out if you know what I mean but as far as fixing a tire I figured what do I got to lose so I fill it with sealant and either it works or it doesn't but I haven't said that I really want to get the mower deck higher and like I said I've seen many references if you do a search on mower deck at the highest setting is too low that's what I was searching on. Years ago we had a John Deere riding mower and when you set the deck to the highest setting you could go over a curb and not scrape the bottom of the blade or the mower deck itself it was just unbelievable the adjustment on that thing.Tires are like batteries, there is more to it then meets the eye. Ideally you want a low pressure tire gauge to check tire pressure.
When a tire has sidewall dry rot I try a sealant which sometimes works and sometimes does not. If it works, great, if it doesn’t then I only lost the cost of some sealant. The last thing I am going to do is remove the tire, break the bead, get and install a tube, fight with putting the tube in, and charge the customer for labor and tube. So in a case like that, it is simple, I don’t install tubes because it is a pain in the butt.
You can usually adjust the deck height with the deck hangers and front hook up. On level concrete surface, at correct tire pressure, break out the tape measure and get your measurements and go from there.
Jim
#39
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Riding mowers are chronically set low from the factory and it is not uncommon to max out at 3.5” on adjusted deck height. When leveling the deck, take measurements on the deck itself for your height adjustments. To determine the actual cutting height, measure from the blade tip to concrete. Two different measurements you see.Okay I'll take your advice on those hanger things I really think they're maxed out if you know what I mean but as far as fixing a tire I figured what do I got to lose so I fill it with sealant and either it works or it doesn't but I haven't said that I really want to get the mower deck higher and like I said I've seen many references if you do a search on mower deck at the highest setting is too low that's what I was searching on. Years ago we had a John Deere riding mower and when you set the deck to the highest setting you could go over a curb and not scrape the bottom of the blade or the mower deck itself it was just unbelievable the adjustment on that thing.
Jim
#40
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Okay tiger I got you on that thanks for replying but I do recall getting on the ground and looking at that whole setup and everything was jammed up near the frame going up say towards the seat.Riding mowers are chronically set low from the factory and it is not uncommon to max out at 3.5” on adjusted deck height. When leveling the deck, take measurements on the deck itself for your height adjustments. To determine the actual cutting height, measure from the blade tip to concrete. Two different measurements you see.
Jim
#41
Tiger Small Engine
Remove the nut on the deck hanger rod and put in a washer(s) or bushing to give you more adjustment. If the threads are maxed out, this can give you another inch or so.
Tiger Small Engine
Here is one other trick you can use, provided the spindles clear the underside of mower. Also, may have to remove spindle safety covers to accommodate increased deck height clearance.Okay tiger I got you on that thanks for replying but I do recall getting on the ground and looking at that whole setup and everything was jammed up near the frame going up say towards the seat.
Jim
Remove the nut on the deck hanger rod and put in a washer(s) or bushing to give you more adjustment. If the threads are maxed out, this can give you another inch or so.
#42
J
JimP2014
Thanks,
Jim
And unless we really have some warm weather this will not be happening for at least another 3 months.
J
JimP2014
Okay as I'm reading this when you say put a washer in to me that means the deck's even going to be lower obviously I'm not getting something on this but I will reread it but like I said when I came across the problem last summer everything I read was oh just put more air in your tires and I don't like that solution because they were already filled up.Here is one other trick you can use, provided the spindles clear the underside of mower. Also, may have to remove spindle safety covers to accommodate increased deck height clearance.
Remove the nut on the deck hanger rod and put in a washer(s) or bushing to give you more adjustment. If the threads are maxed out, this can give you another inch or so.
Thanks,
Jim
And unless we really have some warm weather this will not be happening for at least another 3 months.
#43
F
fox5flyer
F
fox5flyer
Just put a tube in it. Problem solved.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#44
T
Tom631
T
Tom631
Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be
#45
J
Johner
J
Johner
I think you will find the tire cracked, very tiny crack, cracks, they look like left over bubbles from the soap. Increase the soap mixture, I use dove dish soap, the bubbles will last longer.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#46
T
Tom631
T
Tom631
Try the stem inside the valve. Tire shop found mine to be bad. Screwed new one in and held air. Leak solved.
#47
G
Gebo
G
Gebo
I wouldn’t go changing to a larger diameter size tire. The tires were sized for the transmission and larger tires will put more strain on tranny.
I had a similar leak down where they couldn’t find the leak. I put a tube in 3 years ago. So far, so good.
When I’ve had leaks, they never plugged. They patched.
I had a similar leak down where they couldn’t find the leak. I put a tube in 3 years ago. So far, so good.
When I’ve had leaks, they never plugged. They patched.
#48
StarTech
StarTech
Personally I wait until warms up a little as the grass isn't really needing mowing when it freezing out there.
But as suggest you do need a low pressure gauge if you don't have one. But normally most riders have rear at 10 psi or slightly lower depending on the ride.
My manual gauges start 5 psi but the digital torque adapter can go down to under 1 psi.
Also air pressure is normally low during cold temps
But as suggest you do need a low pressure gauge if you don't have one. But normally most riders have rear at 10 psi or slightly lower depending on the ride.
My manual gauges start 5 psi but the digital torque adapter can go down to under 1 psi.
Also air pressure is normally low during cold temps
#49
J
JimP2014
Thanks,
Jim
J
JimP2014
I wouldn’t go changing to a larger diameter size tire. The tires were sized for the transmission and larger tires will put more strain on tranny.
I had a similar leak down where they couldn’t find the leak. I put a tube in 3 years ago. So far, so good.
When I’ve had leaks, they never plugged. They patched.
Startech thanks for the tip low pressure gauge this one goes up to like I don't know 60 lb who knows but maybe I'll take a look and find something that goes as high as maybe 20 psi I'm just guessing cuz the spec for these tires is I think 14 psi.Personally I wait until warms up a little as the grass isn't really needing mowing when it freezing out there.
But as suggest you do need a low pressure gauge if you don't have one. But normally most riders have rear at 10 psi or slightly lower depending on the ride.
My manual gauges start 5 psi but the digital torque adapter can go down to under 1 psi.
Also air pressure is normally low during cold temps
Thanks,
Jim
#50
StarTech
StarTech
And with the deck you don't want eliminate too much the deck to mower frame clearance as they got to be able to float somewhat. Without this the deck can slam against the frame and damage things. This causes even more problems as items are bent or worst broke.
Every manufacture has different design and specs. Most of the MTD can drag on the ground and other I have seen get no where near dragging. Basically my MTD built mower can scalp the grass to the dirt if lower the deck to 1 or 2 notch.
When buying a mower the owners should lower and raise the decks to check the actual cutting heights.
And with tire pressures you don't want to be max the rating as the tread are will lose traction due the tread face going flat across to rounded face with the center making contact and the outer edges less contact. Plus it rough on the back as it will be a rougher ride.
Every manufacture has different design and specs. Most of the MTD can drag on the ground and other I have seen get no where near dragging. Basically my MTD built mower can scalp the grass to the dirt if lower the deck to 1 or 2 notch.
When buying a mower the owners should lower and raise the decks to check the actual cutting heights.
And with tire pressures you don't want to be max the rating as the tread are will lose traction due the tread face going flat across to rounded face with the center making contact and the outer edges less contact. Plus it rough on the back as it will be a rougher ride.
#51
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I hear you on this so imagine I have an LT2000 Sears Craftsman and on the lowest setting the clearance isn't like 1 in or 0 in it's like -5 in like this is crazy and that's why when I try and raise it up to the highest setting it's like I'm already out we're down 5 in of vertical height.And with the deck you don't want eliminate too much the deck to mower frame clearance as they got to be able to float somewhat. Without this the deck can slam against the frame and damage things. This causes even more problems as items are bent or worst broke.
Every manufacture has different design and specs. Most of the MTD can drag on the ground and other I have seen get no where near dragging. Basically my MTD built mower can scalp the grass to the dirt if lower the deck to 1 or 2 notch.
When buying a mower the owners should lower and raise the decks to check the actual cutting heights.
And with tire pressures you don't want to be max the rating as the tread are will lose traction due the tread face going flat across to rounded face with the center making contact and the outer edges less contact. Plus it rough on the back as it will be a rougher ride.
Jim
#52
S
skiwithjohn
S
skiwithjohn
I have had good luck using a tire sealant product called "Flat Out" in my garden tractor tires. I have never used Slime because of horror stories I have read about it. "Flat Out" seems to avoid many of the issues people complain about with Slime.
#53
B
barny57
B
barny57
Put a tube in itHey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#54
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Michael I'm not going to recommend you what to do I'm going to recommend you what not to do and that has to do with that slime product it's completely useless. Having said that it might have other applications where it works really great but not in the case of the riding mower from what I can tell.Put a tube in it
Jim
#55
K
kjonxx
K
kjonxx
Check the weld area on the rim where the 2 halves come together.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#56
R
Ray52
R
Ray52
I've found that the stem is often the culprit, Do what I have done and have a tube installed. Problem solved.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#57
S
schreib69
I would do this:
-- jack up the air pressure to as much as you dare, at least 50 psi and do this:
* After deflating. . . don't even bother testing it, just replace the valve stem(using channel lock grab stem and rip it out, leveraging backside of channel locks against rim, twist); replace the stem and leave it at high pressure overnight, recheck. valve stems are CHEAP! just do it. To replace it you need a core tool and to break and FULLY clean the bead you will have to break free. Break the bead this way: 1) use a bottle jack under your truck hitch mount, press base against the bead, 2) use forks from skid steer in each side of bead, 3) take to the tire store and have them simply replace them stem for $20??. Finally, very important to SAND down inside rim at seat if rusted, minimum clean thoroughly with Scothbrite, lube well when re-pressuring.
* using a detergent solution and brush, scrub the heck out of the tread and bead seam; inspect it six inches at a time as you go around the tread(inspection area horizontal) dribbling water over it and damming it up in inspection area with rags. cleaning it allows water spreading across the rubber surface so no air pockets cover a leak.*slowly dribble water with some detergent along each bead and watch it six inches at a time around the circumference
* if all this fails, mark off the tire in 3 or four radial sectors, 90° to 120° of a circle, and submerge tire in water and watch each sector for bubbles for 10 min.
S
schreib69
It appears that for over a week you have yet to fix this and had a LOT of comments; I read only page one and six. . .I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
I would do this:
-- jack up the air pressure to as much as you dare, at least 50 psi and do this:
* After deflating. . . don't even bother testing it, just replace the valve stem(using channel lock grab stem and rip it out, leveraging backside of channel locks against rim, twist); replace the stem and leave it at high pressure overnight, recheck. valve stems are CHEAP! just do it. To replace it you need a core tool and to break and FULLY clean the bead you will have to break free. Break the bead this way: 1) use a bottle jack under your truck hitch mount, press base against the bead, 2) use forks from skid steer in each side of bead, 3) take to the tire store and have them simply replace them stem for $20??. Finally, very important to SAND down inside rim at seat if rusted, minimum clean thoroughly with Scothbrite, lube well when re-pressuring.
* using a detergent solution and brush, scrub the heck out of the tread and bead seam; inspect it six inches at a time as you go around the tread(inspection area horizontal) dribbling water over it and damming it up in inspection area with rags. cleaning it allows water spreading across the rubber surface so no air pockets cover a leak.*slowly dribble water with some detergent along each bead and watch it six inches at a time around the circumference
* if all this fails, mark off the tire in 3 or four radial sectors, 90° to 120° of a circle, and submerge tire in water and watch each sector for bubbles for 10 min.
#58
R
robertschemenauer
R
robertschemenauer
It could be the valve try putting a little spit or soappy water.some times just needs a new valve.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#59
F
Freddie21
F
Freddie21
If the leak is small, I would try this leak fixer, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5M1TGJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1. It is the only one I've used that will cure a cracked side wall. Price is decent, about the same as buying a tube. Only use 1\2 pouch depending on tire size.
If you are good with removing the tire from 1\2 the rim, then a tube is better if you have cracking on the side wall. Before installing the tube, run your hand lightly around the inside of the tire and rim looking for sharp burrs. Sand them off tire and grind off wheel. Many times there is weld splatter that is sharp.
For me, back tires are easier to remove and reinstall so I'll use tubes. I don't enjoy the smaller fronts.
If you are good with removing the tire from 1\2 the rim, then a tube is better if you have cracking on the side wall. Before installing the tube, run your hand lightly around the inside of the tire and rim looking for sharp burrs. Sand them off tire and grind off wheel. Many times there is weld splatter that is sharp.
For me, back tires are easier to remove and reinstall so I'll use tubes. I don't enjoy the smaller fronts.
#60
B
bbirder
B
bbirder
Hey Guys,
I'll solve your problem for you. Go to Amazon and search for a product called "Flat Out". It contains kevlar and is used by the military in everything from trucks to airplanes. It is not slimy and can be washed out with water if tire needs to be dismounted. They claim one application for life of tire. I use it on my personal tires and have not had a flat or leak down yet. And it is affordable and comes in all sizes.
I'll solve your problem for you. Go to Amazon and search for a product called "Flat Out". It contains kevlar and is used by the military in everything from trucks to airplanes. It is not slimy and can be washed out with water if tire needs to be dismounted. They claim one application for life of tire. I use it on my personal tires and have not had a flat or leak down yet. And it is affordable and comes in all sizes.
#61
jes_in_sac
jes_in_sac
My mower is only for the grass and weeds, since there is no lawn on the farm. I tried everything... tubes, slime... but finally, the only thing that worked was lugged tires on the mower. Haven't had a problem with either of those rear tires since, and that's been probably 15 yrs ago. Now the front tires, they are always a pain, and I should find some lugged tires for those too, if they make them that small.
Get yourself a mini-tire changer [fairly cheap at Harbor Freight]. It won't keep the tire from picking up stuff and going flat, but at least it makes that part doable. I just clamp it in my vise on the bench to work on those small tires. I think that I'm doing plugs from now on though, since I haven't had much luck with inner tubes, and actually took them out of some of my tires, since they ended up being even more trouble. I don't trust plugs on high-speed tires on a car, but on a mower tire, it's got to be easier up front and easy to fix if it pops out again. And yes, I have found slow leaks on the wheel itself from a porous weld. Loctite makes an anaerobic weld porosity sealer that works great on those tiny leaks in metal.
Get yourself a mini-tire changer [fairly cheap at Harbor Freight]. It won't keep the tire from picking up stuff and going flat, but at least it makes that part doable. I just clamp it in my vise on the bench to work on those small tires. I think that I'm doing plugs from now on though, since I haven't had much luck with inner tubes, and actually took them out of some of my tires, since they ended up being even more trouble. I don't trust plugs on high-speed tires on a car, but on a mower tire, it's got to be easier up front and easy to fix if it pops out again. And yes, I have found slow leaks on the wheel itself from a porous weld. Loctite makes an anaerobic weld porosity sealer that works great on those tiny leaks in metal.
#62
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Looks like the OP has ghosted us but:
I repair my own lawn tractor/trailer tire flats.
I've had problems locating really slow leaks in tubeless tires also, sometimes even using a water tub will not show a aggravating seep.
I have two spray soap bottles. One has a large dose of Dawn dish soap.
The other main leak detector has just little bit of dish soap in water. Large leaks can usually be detected by bubbles, but small seeps will usually produce a white frost with the larger dose of dish soap solution.
For very small slow leaks I air the tire up to max using a very accurate tire gauge, for example a lawn tractor tire rated for 14psi will get at least 14 and sometimes 20psi. I always start the test at the lower rated air pressure stamped on the tire.
For a slow leak/seep I then spray the complete tire and stem area and around the bead with the tire laying flat. Just walk away and go back in 5 min or longer and look for what appears to be white frost. It's a seep.
Do the same thing with the tire/rim upside down. Also tilt the rim and spray around the valve stem and let it set for while and slightly wiggle the stem.
I've seen some that would not leak until being driven.
Like the guys say, a good new inner tube now days will cost $20 plus labor and new tire almost same, so go figure.
Be really careful when installing max air pressure into small welded rims or any tires.
I've seen them welded small rims split in half due to air pressure.
No need in even trying to fix it yourself if you cannot break the tire bead from the rim yourself. go ahead and take it to a tire shop. (unless you want to use the sealers) I do not use fix a flat or slime.
I repair my own lawn tractor/trailer tire flats.
I've had problems locating really slow leaks in tubeless tires also, sometimes even using a water tub will not show a aggravating seep.
I have two spray soap bottles. One has a large dose of Dawn dish soap.
The other main leak detector has just little bit of dish soap in water. Large leaks can usually be detected by bubbles, but small seeps will usually produce a white frost with the larger dose of dish soap solution.
For very small slow leaks I air the tire up to max using a very accurate tire gauge, for example a lawn tractor tire rated for 14psi will get at least 14 and sometimes 20psi. I always start the test at the lower rated air pressure stamped on the tire.
For a slow leak/seep I then spray the complete tire and stem area and around the bead with the tire laying flat. Just walk away and go back in 5 min or longer and look for what appears to be white frost. It's a seep.
Do the same thing with the tire/rim upside down. Also tilt the rim and spray around the valve stem and let it set for while and slightly wiggle the stem.
I've seen some that would not leak until being driven.
Like the guys say, a good new inner tube now days will cost $20 plus labor and new tire almost same, so go figure.
Be really careful when installing max air pressure into small welded rims or any tires.
I've seen them welded small rims split in half due to air pressure.
No need in even trying to fix it yourself if you cannot break the tire bead from the rim yourself. go ahead and take it to a tire shop. (unless you want to use the sealers) I do not use fix a flat or slime.
#63
M
mcvoss
M
mcvoss
Guys,
I'm still here been reading all of the comments. One thing I learned on here is do not use sealant, EVER. I appreciate that advice because I almost did, even bought a can.
The valve stem is good, used soap on it. The tires and mower are in great shape, the mower is garage kept no rust etc. At this point I'm going to borrow a baby pool, from my son, see if submerging the tire will show a leak. If not I guess I'll just buy a new tire, I hate doing it but what the hell.
I do appreciate all of the comments.
Michael
I'm still here been reading all of the comments. One thing I learned on here is do not use sealant, EVER. I appreciate that advice because I almost did, even bought a can.
The valve stem is good, used soap on it. The tires and mower are in great shape, the mower is garage kept no rust etc. At this point I'm going to borrow a baby pool, from my son, see if submerging the tire will show a leak. If not I guess I'll just buy a new tire, I hate doing it but what the hell.
I do appreciate all of the comments.
Michael
#64
S
schreib69
S
schreib69
Hey Guys,
I'll solve your problem for you. Go to Amazon and search for a product called "Flat Out". It contains kevlar and is used by the military in everything from trucks to airplanes. It is not slimy and can be washed out with water if tire needs to be dismounted. They claim one application for life of tire. I use it on my personal tires and have not had a flat or leak down yet. And it is affordable and comes in all sizes.
#65
S
schreib69
S
schreib69
I would go as high as 50 psi.Looks like the OP has ghosted us but:
I repair my own lawn tractor/trailer tire flats.
I've had problems locating really slow leaks in tubeless tires also, sometimes even using a water tub will not show a aggravating seep.
I have two spray soap bottles. One has a large dose of Dawn dish soap.
The other main leak detector has just little bit of dish soap in water. Large leaks can usually be detected by bubbles, but small seeps will usually produce a white frost with the larger dose of dish soap solution.
For very small slow leaks I air the tire up to max using a very accurate tire gauge, for example a lawn tractor tire rated for 14psi will get at least 14 and sometimes 20psi.
#67
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
How old is the tire? Are the sidewalls cracked. Has it setting around a while in a flat condition. That can cause cracks in the side wall. The bathtub is good if you can't a small wash tub or minnow tank. Use the bath tib when your wife is gone but clean it after and do a good job. Try an auto tire repair shop. That 's what I do with mine. If you have a sturdy bench you can break the bead. Take out the valve core. Lay the tire on the floor under the bench. Get an old shovel handle or other strong wood.. Get a 2X4 about 3 feet long. Set square end of the shovel handle and set it on the bead. Hold it verticle and use the 2XC4 as a lever setting it on top of the shovel handle and one end under the edge of the bench. Hold the tire with one foot and push down on the 2X4 using the shovel handle to break the bead. Break the other side. Feel inside tire for a nail. If you find it you know where the leak is. Use a patch and don't use slime unless the sidewalls are cracked. Good luck!Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#68
R
rhkraft
R
rhkraft
An inner tuibe is also a good choice for cracked sidewalls.How old is the tire? Are the sidewalls cracked. Has it setting around a while in a flat condition. That can cause cracks in the side wall. The bathtub is good if you can't a small wash tub or minnow tank. Use the bath tib when your wife is gone but clean it after and do a good job. Try an auto tire repair shop. That 's what I do with mine. If you have a sturdy bench you can break the bead. Take out the valve core. Lay the tire on the floor under the bench. Get an old shovel handle or other strong wood.. Get a 2X4 about 3 feet long. Set square end of the shovel handle and set it on the bead. Hold it verticle and use the 2XC4 as a lever setting it on top of the shovel handle and one end under the edge of the bench. Hold the tire with one foot and push down on the 2X4 using the shovel handle to break the bead. Break the other side. Feel inside tire for a nail. If you find it you know where the leak is. Use a patch and don't use slime unless the sidewalls are cracked. Good luck!
#69
B
biggertv
B
biggertv
ATF. Remove the valve stem and using a pump oil can, squirt enough to lightly coat the entire inside of the tire. I didn't believe it either, But It Works. I used ATF4 and other types probably work too. It does seal small holes, especially Weather Cracks on sidewall. Inflate immediately and drive for a while to evenly distribute, not too fast, don't want to sling it all to the center. May require a second treatment. I no longer have to fill old mower tires every week.
#70
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I did recommend a sealant on the big A and that's what I used and if the only thing I had to fix was a flat tire I would have probably reset it on the rim and see if there was some sort of issue after making sure the rim was cool and then if all else failed just get a new tire like 30 bucks 40 bucks , but last summer I was dealing with a carburetor problem a broken muffler problem a keyway problem twice at least a mower deck belt problem a battery problem and last but not least a tire problem regarding the tire problem I took the path of least resistance praying it would work and it did so that's the whole picture for me anyways in the sealant that I bought did work on my second attempt.
Jim
Jim
#71
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
But only in this in the interest of completeness I had a Black& Decker weed wacker that I had for like 15 years the batteries didn't work and in less than 2 hours I bought a Craftsman with a battery and that thing is pretty amazing it took 2 hours because when I went to use the mobile app at the store it wouldn't work so I had to go back home order it online from a PC and then go back to the store and pick it up otherwise it's a 20-minute deal.I did recommend a sealant on the big A and that's what I used and if the only thing I had to fix was a flat tire I would have probably reset it on the rim and see if there was some sort of issue after making sure the rim was cool and then if all else failed just get a new tire like 30 bucks 40 bucks , but last summer I was dealing with a carburetor problem a broken muffler problem a keyway problem twice at least a mower deck belt problem a battery problem and last but not least a tire problem regarding the tire problem I took the path of least resistance praying it would work and it did so that's the whole picture for me anyways in the sealant that I bought did work on my second attempt.
Jim
#72
S
schreib69
I wonder if the ATF partially softens and swells the leaking pore. Expansion inside swells it shut maybe?!
S
schreib69
INTERESTING!ATF. Remove the valve stem and using a pump oil can, squirt enough to lightly coat the entire inside of the tire. I didn't believe it either, But It Works. I used ATF4 and other types probably work too. It does seal small holes, especially Weather Cracks on sidewall. Inflate immediately and drive for a while to evenly distribute, not too fast, don't want to sling it all to the center. May require a second treatment. I no longer have to fill old mower tires every week.
I wonder if the ATF partially softens and swells the leaking pore. Expansion inside swells it shut maybe?!
#73
T
TobyU
Regardless, I don't worry about finding the leaks now. I just use some of the green slime the thick stuff in the large gallon container and I buy it when it's on sale because the stuff went up $10 more per gallon a while back.
4 to 6 oz in the front smaller tire and 8 oz in a rear tire and then air it up and go ride it. A leak that takes all night long or longer delete down will be totally fixed by this and we'll even fix worse leaks than that but I won't bother with it on a tire that leaks down within a couple of hours because those just get a tube.
It doesn't hurt anything despite what people may say and it does not rust out your rims or anything like that. It's not flammable and it's not messy at all.
You could pop the tire off and wipe everything off with literally two tissues or one decent size napkin so that's a moot argument by people.
T
TobyU
I have found the best way to find a leak is to take the tire off and submerge it into a body of water. When I had my pool, I would often do this even though it looked kind of funny.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
Regardless, I don't worry about finding the leaks now. I just use some of the green slime the thick stuff in the large gallon container and I buy it when it's on sale because the stuff went up $10 more per gallon a while back.
4 to 6 oz in the front smaller tire and 8 oz in a rear tire and then air it up and go ride it. A leak that takes all night long or longer delete down will be totally fixed by this and we'll even fix worse leaks than that but I won't bother with it on a tire that leaks down within a couple of hours because those just get a tube.
It doesn't hurt anything despite what people may say and it does not rust out your rims or anything like that. It's not flammable and it's not messy at all.
You could pop the tire off and wipe everything off with literally two tissues or one decent size napkin so that's a moot argument by people.
#74
S
schreib69
read the post below by biggertv-- use a few oz of ATF! cheap, simple to try-- not much downside.
S
schreib69
Michael,Guys,
I'm still here been reading all of the comments. One thing I learned on here is do not use sealant, EVER. I appreciate that advice because I almost did, even bought a can.
The valve stem is good, used soap on it. The tires and mower are in great shape, the mower is garage kept no rust etc. At this point I'm going to borrow a baby pool, from my son, see if submerging the tire will show a leak. If not I guess I'll just buy a new tire, I hate doing it but what the hell.
I do appreciate all of the comments.
Michael
read the post below by biggertv-- use a few oz of ATF! cheap, simple to try-- not much downside.
#75
kbowley
kbowley
Can't believe this thread has this many ways to simply fix a leaking tire. If you have the correct tools (bead breaker and tire spoons), just pick up a tube from any local power equipment dealer or order a brand-name tube from the big A or the WM and install it, and you're done; it is quite simple. If you do not have the correct tools or have never done it, simply bring it to a dealer and have them put a tube in it. Most dealers and shops only charge fifteen dollars plus a tube, and the problem is resolved. DO NOT use fix-a-flat, Slime, or other similar flat fixers; it will not last and makes a heck of a mess to clean it up and put a tube in it, which is the correct way to fix it.
#76
M
mcvoss
M
mcvoss
I really appreciate all the replies everyone. So I picked up a little kids pool filled it up w/ water and soap and found the leak.
Son of a gun, it was in the sidewall on the inner side of tire. Not sure how that happened unless a stick got caught underneath the mower.
I'm not going the tube route. Everyone wanted to replace the tire and I'm not going to do the tube myself. Spent to may years replacing tubes in mine and my kids dirt bike tires lol.
I found a place that will replace w/ the same tire (20x10x8) for $85 OTD. It took a lot of calling as everyone else wanted $125 +.
If it happens again soon, I'll rethink the tube.
Again, I really appreciate all of the comments, I learned a lot from this thread.
Michael
Son of a gun, it was in the sidewall on the inner side of tire. Not sure how that happened unless a stick got caught underneath the mower.
I'm not going the tube route. Everyone wanted to replace the tire and I'm not going to do the tube myself. Spent to may years replacing tubes in mine and my kids dirt bike tires lol.
I found a place that will replace w/ the same tire (20x10x8) for $85 OTD. It took a lot of calling as everyone else wanted $125 +.
If it happens again soon, I'll rethink the tube.
Again, I really appreciate all of the comments, I learned a lot from this thread.
Michael
#77
kbowley
kbowley
Probably dry rot caused the leak. Glad you got it straightened out, and the price is very fair. A Carlisle turf saver in your size is roughly seventy dollars, and they can be a real PITA to get the bead seated.I really appreciate all the replies everyone. So I picked up a little kids pool filled it up w/ water and soap and found the leak.
Son of a gun, it was in the sidewall on the inner side of tire. Not sure how that happened unless a stick got caught underneath the mower.
I'm not going the tube route. Everyone wanted to replace the tire and I'm not going to do the tube myself. Spent to may years replacing tubes in mine and my kids dirt bike tires lol.
I found a place that will replace w/ the same tire (20x10x8) for $85 OTD. It took a lot of calling as everyone else wanted $125 +.
If it happens again soon, I'll rethink the tube.
Again, I really appreciate all of the comments, I learned a lot from this thread.
Michael
#78
S
sls123
S
sls123
Have the tire shop put a tube in the tire. I have tubes in all mineHey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#79
stevestd
Had similar problems with a tyre deflating unexpectedly on a number of occasions a few years back. Took it to my local tyre dealer who checked for leaks etc with no problems found. He said that older tyres can develop microleaks (these were 8-10 years old). Bought two new good quality tyres (no tube, same rims using 13-15 psi) with no problems since!
stevestd
Posted this response some time ago.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
Had similar problems with a tyre deflating unexpectedly on a number of occasions a few years back. Took it to my local tyre dealer who checked for leaks etc with no problems found. He said that older tyres can develop microleaks (these were 8-10 years old). Bought two new good quality tyres (no tube, same rims using 13-15 psi) with no problems since!
#80
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Almost 80 posts, and several phone calls to save $40 bucks, glad it is resolved. On the positive side, it gave people a chance to exchange ideas and methods.I really appreciate all the replies everyone. So I picked up a little kids pool filled it up w/ water and soap and found the leak.
Son of a gun, it was in the sidewall on the inner side of tire. Not sure how that happened unless a stick got caught underneath the mower.
I'm not going the tube route. Everyone wanted to replace the tire and I'm not going to do the tube myself. Spent to may years replacing tubes in mine and my kids dirt bike tires lol.
I found a place that will replace w/ the same tire (20x10x8) for $85 OTD. It took a lot of calling as everyone else wanted $125 +.
If it happens again soon, I'll rethink the tube.
Again, I really appreciate all of the comments, I learned a lot from this thread.
Michael
#81
J
Joelk
J
Joelk
I realize that the leak has now been found, but something that I did not see mentioned in the dozens of posts I read (I did not read all of them) was "overinflating" the tire to make the leak easier to find. Leaks that can be very hard to detect at 10 PSI can often be much easier to detect at 30 PSI (or 30 vs 60 in a car tire)
#82
kbowley
kbowley
I do not recommend inflating above the max inflation pressure that is on the sidewall, particularly when dry rotted. The first places I check for leaking tires are the bead and sidewalls. I spray some Purple Power or wipe some RuGlide on the sidewalls.I realize that the leak has now been found, but something that I did not see mentioned in the dozens of posts I read (I did not read all of them) was "overinflating" the tire to make the leak easier to find. Leaks that can be very hard to detect at 10 PSI can often be much easier to detect at 30 PSI (or 30 vs 60 in a car tire)
#83
H
herbert4
H
herbert4
Try soaping the top of valve only to see if you have a leak .if not completely submerge in water to find leak.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#84
P
Peterplocket
Also, make sure the valve is in tight, but not overtight.
P
Peterplocket
Try the putting it in the bath when wifey is out! And make sure it's squeaky clean afterwards though! Rotate the tyre (UK spelling) slowly, checking both sides carefully. There maybe only one or two bubbles coming out slowly, so be vigilant.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
Also, make sure the valve is in tight, but not overtight.
#85
P
Peterplocket
P
Peterplocket
Try the putting it in the bath when wifey is out! And make sure it's squeaky clean afterwards though! Rotate the tyre (UK spelling) slowly, checking both sides carefully. There maybe only one or two bubbles coming out slowly, so be vigilant.
Also, make sure the valve is in tight, but not overtight.
#86
M
MartinR
M
MartinR
In my opinion Slime will work as long as you rotate the wheel, best job, again in my opinion is to tube it.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#87
P
professor229
P
professor229
Over the years I have had this problem too.. I can relate... most of the time, I found the problem to be a VERY VERY small leak around the bead... I use a little kids swimming pool... the plastic one you know.. that people give away and filled that and submerge the whole wheel/tire... What I always wanted to try was to set up a camera and use it with the tire submerged and a couple hours later, replay the recording on Fast Forward to see where the bubbles were coming from.... but never got to it... so I went to Plan B especially on rims I was pretty sure were leaking around the bead... and I break the bead on both sides, clean up the beads with steel wool or whatever method you choose and coat the metal and rubber with rubber cement and let it set for a good half hour and then inflated the tire and hope... if that was it, problem solved... you could also replace the valve while the beads are broken and then do a stupid move like I have done and dropped the old valve inside the tire... "eye roll here"..... I don't know how many times I have found a "brad" in the tire as well... magnifying glass? and PS... I had a Sears mower that had a low tire ALL THE TIME.. I never did find the reason for that.... AND finally.. one more thought... usually to find a leak you use "soapy water" but with an extreme slow leak, that makes the problem worse.. use clear water so you can see minute bubbles.....Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#88
G
garyoldfart
G
garyoldfart
Did you remove the tire, lay it flat and pour dish soapy water around the bead then walk away for an hour or so. then flip the tire over and do the other side. you will get a white pimple on the bead leakHey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#89
Its Me
Its Me
I do submerge them to find the leak, and if there are several sports leaking I just put a tube, cost a lot less than a tire, have found them with slight cracks, finish nails, side wall leaks, stem leak both valve and seal area, quick and easy answer and it ever there is another leak easy to find and patch.
#90
B
bobL
B
bobL
Do you use anti-freeze in your tire? It softens the rubber and allows it to swell and expand to fix most small leaks. I use it for bead, weather cracks and small puncture leaks, won't screw up the rim (actually retards rust and corrosion). Most of us have it on the shelf, so the cost is minimal. You can remove the valve core and depending on the size of the tire, just put a small hose on a tiny funnel or use a larger medical syringe to add a quarter cup for small tires, like front lawn mower or a bit more for rear tires. Then reinflate and use the tractor to move it around to coat the rubber. I can't tell you how many times I've used this method successfully.
#91
F
freedhardwoods
F
freedhardwoods
I did not read the previous responses, so this may have been mentioned already.
Get a tub that you can completely submerge the tire in water. You have to look really close, but you will see the bubbles coming to the top. You may have to turn the tire to pin down the exact spot, but you will find the leak.
There may not be anything wrong with the tire. In my lifetime, I've had several leaks where the tire bead seats on the rim for various reasons.
Get a tub that you can completely submerge the tire in water. You have to look really close, but you will see the bubbles coming to the top. You may have to turn the tire to pin down the exact spot, but you will find the leak.
There may not be anything wrong with the tire. In my lifetime, I've had several leaks where the tire bead seats on the rim for various reasons.
#92
E
eagle86801
E
eagle86801
Take the tire off the mower and separate the tire from rim ,away from the wheel hub , sometimes the hub rusts and builds up to causes an air leak .If that's the problem sand it down put on some of that tire liquid sealer on it . I had it happen to me on a car years ago , it drove the mechanic crazy until he separated the tire from the rim and found the rust. good luckHey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#94
M
Missouri
M
Missouri
Same thing happened to me. Check the sidewall, which perhaps could be patched on a mower.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#95
H
Homeuser66
H
Homeuser66
Didn't read all the responses, but, if you can, try sticking the tire in a bin (garbage can?) depending on the size of tire, and see if you see any air bubbles.
#96
mark3885
mark3885
I find that it is easier to find a leaking tire while using less air pressure, say 5-6 psi vs full tire pressure.
#97
M
M0t
M
M0t
A cut off 55gal drum might be big enough. Cut with cutoff wheel on angle grinder.Last resort...Find a tub big enough to completely submerge the tire and rim assembly. Then fill the tub completely with water. This will even show up a rim internal weld problem. Rare but does happen.
#98
D
daddieo
D
daddieo
I’ve read a bunch of the comments and noticed that not one mentioned and old time deterrent to slow leaks back in the day was axel grease. Take a brush and grease up the rim where the tire is going to seat and overfill the tire a little, like 5 lbs more just for a couple of minutes to get grease into any deviations in the rim and you should be good to go! Just remember to let some of the air out. Don’t wanna blowout!
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#99
D
Doityerself
I slimed it, added extra slime, made sure the sidewall’s were covered. Still leaks just a little slower. My 1st and last experience with slime… Will not buy Carlisle tires again.
D
Doityerself
I replaced all the tires on my old Dixon, 8026D, with Carlisle tires. After 3 months or so, I had a slow leak in a rear tire. I went through all normal trouble shooting. I finally submerged the whole thing in soap water, still nothing. Took it out of water and went to lunch. When I got back to the tire, it looked like little bits of foam around all lettering and numbers on the side wall, it leaks everywhere, very slowly!Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
I slimed it, added extra slime, made sure the sidewall’s were covered. Still leaks just a little slower. My 1st and last experience with slime… Will not buy Carlisle tires again.
#100
2
2muchgrass2mow
2
2muchgrass2mow
I have a JD X-370 that's only a couple years old which developed a very, very slow leak in the right rear tire (it would lose perhaps half its air every couple of weeks). I had used a product Sears (now defunct) sold probably 10 years ago with success on a previous mower, so I opted for Slime after doing some research on how it works. Problem solved. I'm not sure it's a fix-all for every application, but it worked for me. That was nearly 2 years ago. Be well!Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#101
Biscuit Barrel
Biscuit Barrel
does it consistently bleed down, or sometimes? Sometimes leaks can be dependent on the load on the tire - especially at the bead.
RE: Slime: Myself and a garage mechanic friend have never had any success with Slime. It may stop a leak but in weeds or months, it's back. I had cans of Fix-a-Flat for a cross country drive and decided to try. Success. Friend had the same experience. The substance in FaF is complete different from S, FaF looks like a latex rubber base. If you buy at Walmart, instore $12, online $5 something. Yes they honor their online price in the store. Beware, almost everything is cheaper online nowadays: carb cleaner $3.29 instore, $2.89 online.
RE: Slime: Myself and a garage mechanic friend have never had any success with Slime. It may stop a leak but in weeds or months, it's back. I had cans of Fix-a-Flat for a cross country drive and decided to try. Success. Friend had the same experience. The substance in FaF is complete different from S, FaF looks like a latex rubber base. If you buy at Walmart, instore $12, online $5 something. Yes they honor their online price in the store. Beware, almost everything is cheaper online nowadays: carb cleaner $3.29 instore, $2.89 online.
#102
ILENGINE
ILENGINE
That is not a Carlisle tire problem. That is a doesn't matter what brand of mower tire they all get cracks and leak in strange patterns, Even an outline of the letters. Some of the tires I have been seeing the last couple years have insides that looks like a net with all the string strands pulled out of the rubber.I replaced all the tires on my old Dixon, 8026D, with Carlisle tires. After 3 months or so, I had a slow leak in a rear tire. I went through all normal trouble shooting. I finally submerged the whole thing in soap water, still nothing. Took it out of water and went to lunch. When I got back to the tire, it looked like little bits of foam around all lettering and numbers on the side wall, it leaks everywhere, very slowly!
I slimed it, added extra slime, made sure the sidewall’s were covered. Still leaks just a little slower. My 1st and last experience with slime… Will not buy Carlisle tires again.
#103
G
Gord Baker
Remove the tire from the wheel and do a Haynes Test. Slowly wipe a nylon around the inside of the tire. It will catch on the smallest protrusion. When you are satisfied there is nothing inside, note the Tire and Rim size and get a Tube for it.
This gives you an new valve as well as eliminating any rim leaks/dry rot etc. Some air may be trapped in the annular space so press the valve in to allow it to escape momentarily.
G
Gord Baker
Mike:Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
Remove the tire from the wheel and do a Haynes Test. Slowly wipe a nylon around the inside of the tire. It will catch on the smallest protrusion. When you are satisfied there is nothing inside, note the Tire and Rim size and get a Tube for it.
This gives you an new valve as well as eliminating any rim leaks/dry rot etc. Some air may be trapped in the annular space so press the valve in to allow it to escape momentarily.
#104
StarTech
StarTech
But there are different grades of tires. Carlisle tires are usually very good. And only seen one tire with the string problem IL described.
But I do know tires for the hand cart are lousy from Harbor Freight but the more expensive ones I finally replaced them with have good for the last three years not 90 days.
But I do know tires for the hand cart are lousy from Harbor Freight but the more expensive ones I finally replaced them with have good for the last three years not 90 days.
#105
M
MikeH62
M
MikeH62
Why don't you just put an inner tube in it and be done with it.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#106
R
RevB
Submerge it. There are plenty of places unless you live in the Atacama desert. Make sure you remove the stem cap before.....
R
RevB
Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
Submerge it. There are plenty of places unless you live in the Atacama desert. Make sure you remove the stem cap before.....
#107
W
wesw
W
wesw
I seem to have issues like this with almost all my lawn equipment. I put Flat Out Off Road Sealant in them (has a kevlar additive) and tires that used to leak sometimes don't even need filling season to season.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#108
B
Boomer49
B
Boomer49
I've used Stan's No Tube in car, motorcycle, and now bicycle tires. It doesn't cause rust and Amazon has given it a 4.7 based on almost 14,000 reviews. It needs to be reapplied about every 6 months, for a lawn mower tire like you described about 2 oz per tire. They have a small syringe kit with a 5 or 6 oz capacity with a detachable hose. If you still haven't found a solution, researching Stan's No Tube won't be a waste of time. https://www.amazon.com/Stans-No-Tubes-ST0062-NoTubes-32-Ounce/dp/B000XSJIMA/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2DN08R5D4GKXV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.p3xEIcnd9xqEPJLNcXw5xOBTcglVj1r_-5QaTDnjQkSEL43PaGW1qvkSaarKMetGxNBqtgv9XRMtf_toe-4p3T5A_74dF7xtAwPBFz7X1eOArW9-y7JFkviq2qexSS_R83WtPCKAyZBR6r42HEb_ThiY8U3fzzJM1qosSLu8RSvFnj436CZ0k6cxdgZ-K1_pUGIbVxjtCTabD_yA2B-ZZ5LAst9_3Qt-shR22LJJXX7UtMPDemdlV1EiHgD52gGV7AB2SEWjOQJkcA_YTt-oSR2fgU7C58cK8Byu1ZrZQtDN3NOIpU_yHCECLR9g-LKDE_20WCBo8SjLoKr1rdxoZKIOwa3-70Ku4hn5tlHF-LI.3olOCk7tFiQcmgS17KFBcaaAdXgwyJNIBCfbn6DaDWA&dib_tag=se&keywords=stan's+no+tubes+tire+sealant&qid=1737218222&refinements=p_123:390126&rnid=85457740011&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=Stan's,aps,143&sr=1-1
#109
F
Forest#2
F
Forest#2
Whip out the plastic and go get a NEW MOWER. Seems to be the norm now days.
Every time the wife gets a flat tire she wants to go buy a NEW vehicle. After she calls me to come install her spare. (and I most generally fix my own flats)
We live on dirt/rock roads and have to use at least 6 ply tires, 10 ply even better and flats are not a uncommon thing.
She does not seem to understand that most generally NEW vec's OEM tires are not good quality thing for dirt/rock roads. I tell her to go get a job first, get out the plastic and don't ask me to co-sign.
Every time the wife gets a flat tire she wants to go buy a NEW vehicle. After she calls me to come install her spare. (and I most generally fix my own flats)
We live on dirt/rock roads and have to use at least 6 ply tires, 10 ply even better and flats are not a uncommon thing.
She does not seem to understand that most generally NEW vec's OEM tires are not good quality thing for dirt/rock roads. I tell her to go get a job first, get out the plastic and don't ask me to co-sign.
#110
J
jactwo
J
jactwo
Are you sure it’s the tire and not the rim? Inspect rim carefully and wherever any rust color hit it with wire wheel. You will be amazed at extent of damage not visible until you check those areas if there are any. Air can be seeping out the tiniest rust pinhole.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#111
C
CWatters
C
CWatters
I have a Toro ride on mower and when new I had a lot of slow and not so slow punctures due to thorns from hedge cuttings. Nightmare. Then I put Goop in the tyres and it totally solved the problem. Not had a puncture now for 15+ years.
#112
emp1953
emp1953
I had a Cub Cadet that had tires continuously going flat. Many times I could not find a leak and just replaced the tire. This got expensive. I took it to a tire specialty shop dealing in commercial and agricultural tires. I had it "no-flatted". They fill the tire with Tyrfil which is a foam which hardens to a sponge like consistency inside the tire preventing it from EVER going flat again. It makes the mower heavier than it was and any smoother ride provided by the previously air filled tires is gone. But, you will never have another flat tire on that mower.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#113
A
Air4Dave
A
Air4Dave
With a leak that slow slime won't have much effect. Best option is while you have the tire off the mower. Just soap a small section say 1/4 of the tire and just keep an eye on that area to look for a small patch of bubbles. Then move to the next section. Really slow leaks can be hard to detect and tend to make really small bubbles. Doesn't hurt to also check the side walls really well at the same time. I have had times were I would soap a section and then walk away for a few minutes and come back and recheck. Good luck
#114
A
Air4Dave
I would over inflate the tire, maybe to 25+ psi and spray some soapy water on it. If this doesn’t expose it then put it in a small tub where the entire wheel will be covered.
It’s possible, too, that it could be a bad Schrader valve or the bead.
A
Air4Dave
I agree. These are usually very small cracks in the tire. How old is the tire! Is it stored/parked outside?With a leak that slow slime won't have much effect. Best option is while you have the tire off the mower. Just soap a small section say 1/4 of the tire and just keep an eye on that area to look for a small patch of bubbles. Then move to the next section. Really slow leaks can be hard to detect and tend to make really small bubbles. Doesn't hurt to also check the side walls really well at the same time. I have had times were I would soap a section and then walk away for a few minutes and come back and recheck. Good luck.
I would over inflate the tire, maybe to 25+ psi and spray some soapy water on it. If this doesn’t expose it then put it in a small tub where the entire wheel will be covered.
It’s possible, too, that it could be a bad Schrader valve or the bead.
#115
E
epare
E
epare
The bath tub is the way to go. Fill the tub with enough water to completely immerse the tire and rim. Check the treads very carefully for a nail. Inflate the tire to 15-20 pounds more than the max pounds; put it flat in the tub and weight it down until it's completely immersed. Let it set until the water settles and you can really visually scan it. Take your time checking along the treads. If you don't see anything, flip it and scan it again. This is the way I've always done it since I was a kid; and, I've always been able to find leaks. My mom grew up on a large dairy farm, so using the bath tub in this manner was no big deal to her as long as we cleaned the tub afterward. Get yourself some Bon Ami and a hand sponge (a good supermarket will have both of these) and clean the tub until it's at least as clean as before you used it.Hey Everyone,
I am embarrased to ask this. I have a slow Leak in a Rear JD D130 Tire. It takes 2 days to go completly flat. I've taken it off the mower. I can't see anything in it and I have gone over it multple times w/ soapy water and I still can't find the Leak. I also soaped up the valve stem and bead but nothing. Tire is in great shape. If I find the leak y thought was to use a plug.
Any other ideas? All the lawn shops around here won't repair will only replace the tire. I thought about filling the bathtub up w/ water and checking it that way, pretty sure the wife wouldn't like it but I'm losing ideas.
My last resort, which I don't want to do is add slime. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
MIchael
#116
StarTech
StarTech
Even a common paper staple can cause leaks.
#117
Ozcub
Ozcub
I have not read all your replies but what about this, this rim is leaking not the tyre , is it old rusty etc , if so that is where the air is slowly escaping
Oz
Oz
#118
D
davis2
D
davis2
How about tightening or replacing the valve core? I've had that problem.Just put a tube in it. Problem solved.
#119
L
Lmalino
L
Lmalino
Toughest leak I had was intermittent. Might leak a little in a day or a lot on a few hours but not when stationary. Never showed bubbles in water or soaped on sidewall. I put some water inside the tire and saw where it tracked leaking out. I was a rim leak from a bad spot on the bead.