Cannot find oil drain plug

[chuckster]

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

Sump drain plug number 15 ,it’s probably a socket head

 

[BudLight72]

Several years ago, I bought an oil vacuum extractor. A plastic tank that has an internal manual pump that creates a vacuum. With the included hoses/tubing you’re able to remove all of the old oil without any mess. I’ve been fortunate enough it also works really well on my truck and car. Costs a few bucks but saves a ton of headaches. The first time you use it on a piece of equipment, after vacuuming all of the oil you can reach, manually drain any potential remaining oil to make sure you’re getting everything.

 

[Aquadisiac]

To keep gas from coming out of the vent in the gas cap when tipping the mower over, I always remove the gas cap and place a piece of plastic, like a sandwich baggie, over the opening and put the gas cap back on. At least that stops the additional mess. Then just remove the baggie before starting the engine when finished.

 

[Robo_iii]

I've seen in last few years on cheapo mowers where you get maybe 1 or 2 years out of it (before plastic $100 carb plugs up with dust) in 139cc range now come with instructions to never drain oil and just keep adding to it... disaster just waiting to happen, but sold as convenience to users on the shipping box. lol

 

[milliemar]

And tipping on its side along with the oil comes the gas...making even more of a mess..
What an asinine way to change oil .

SMH PEOPLE DON'T KNOW YOU ARE LACKING UNLESS YOU OPEN YOUR MOUTH.

 

[mechanic mark]

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com

 

[kirkkw]

Once saw a guy tip over a mower powered by a Honda engine and the choke engagement rod/spring/cable (don't remember exactly) came off. The owner was pulling and pulling but it wouldn't run. I was across the street and heard it. Walked over and said it sounds like the choke isn't working. Sure enough it was disconnected.

 

[4getgto]

SMH PEOPLE DON'T KNOW YOU ARE LACKING UNLESS YOU OPEN YOUR MOUTH.

And I do have to keep my mouth shut to this or I'll get banned...
Great second post by the way...

 

[doug9694]

Wow, didn't know that..

On my vintage B&S the oil drain plug is under the deck, near the blade shaft.

It is likely a flat plug with a hex socket hole. Scrape the dirt and grass off near the oil fill area. To drain the oil I usually top the mower up 90 degrees into a pan.

 

[Earthquake Landscaping]

We're all overlooking the "elephant in the room"... If it's a Quantum engine, it's not meant for you to change the oil. If you RTFM, it will probably tell you to just check the oil, and add as necessary. The ( useless ) theory being that as the motor wears, and starts to use oil, the oil that you add will supply the necessary additives for the engine. Briggs assumes that the rest of the product will be done before the engine grenades from the worn out oil. Planned obsolescence, and, a marketing ploy.. Never needs an oil change!!

Briggs also assumes that the newer design also contaminates the oil much less than decades ago. Remember when you changed the oil in your car every 2 or 3 thousand miles?.. Now, with tighter engine tolerances, better engine management systems, and synthetic lubrication, now it's more like 6 to 10 thousand miles. The same for spark plug changes / service.

Same as John Deere.. Manual ( for a JD 160 D ), states that the hydrostatic trans ( ToughTorque K46) ... NEVER needs servicing, it also had no drain plug. You could see where one should have been, but it was spec'd that way by John Deere.. Should you have an issue, please consult your John Deere Dealership. When I read that in the manual, I couldn't believe it. After the first 50 hours, I removed the entire transaxle, and upended it over a 5 gallon bucket overnight, letting it drain out through the vent plug. Then I refilled it with the correct amount of premium synthetic Amsoil lubricant. Newer John Deere spec an oil change system where you get a "pre charged" filter.. Basically you're just putting on a fresh filter, and doing a partial oil change ... WTF?

It's planned obsolescence.. It's what happens when the bean counters run the company. They figure that by the time that it pooches from shoddy maintenance practices, that it'll be way, way out of warrantee, and you'll just buy another one.
O.K.. rant over..

Vacuum the oil out.. and stop looking for the drain plug..