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I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

There is no oil drain plug. Oil is either removed using a suction pump or I just tip the mower on its site and drain into a 2” baking pan I stole from my better half.

Wow, didn't know that..

On my vintage B&S the oil drain plug is under the deck, near the blade shaft.

Wow- that's new. There seems to be a plug mentioned on the parts site, but I will now tip it over and get it done. Thank you!

Rivets said:

There is no oil drain plug. Oil is either removed using a suction pump or I just tip the mower on its site and drain into a 2” baking pan I stole from my better half.

Click to expand...

I use this gun for my oil changes. Good for all sorts of stuff. After an oil change in my other vehicles, just suck up the oil and squirt it back in the empty jug. Way better and less chance of making a big mess trying to pour out of the awkward drain pan. $15.00 at Rural King.

Drain plugs started disappearing in the early 2000's when mower OEM decks started blocking the drain plug on the engine, which later progressed to since you can't access the drain then there is no reason to have it on the engine so then the engine companies started by not drilling out the plug where the plug was to not even casting the oil pan for the plug.

Makes sense, mine is much older..

And tipping on its side along with the oil comes the gas...making even more of a mess..
What an asinine way to change oil .

Don’t comment unless you have done it wrong. The only time gas leaks out is if you have a full gas tank. Smart guys know to tip the unit with the carb up so no gas leaks out. Been doing this for years and the only time I get a mess is when I do it without my brain engaged.

Rivets said:

Don’t comment unless you have done it wrong. The only time gas leaks out is if you have a full gas tank. Smart guys know to tip the unit with the carb up so no gas leaks out. Been doing this for years and the only time I get a mess is when I do it without my brain engaged.

Click to expand...

You never even had gas drip out with the oil when you set it on it side...?
You must be god..

I just have been doing it for many years and learned how to do it. Having the right size pan helps a lot. If you think about what you are doing you can do it too.

Why not just get a suction device to do the job. As a shop I got one those pneumatic oil extractors about 5 yrs ago. Things have been so much cleaner as no more dip pans to clean except when I have oil leaks.

I got it when I came across a one wheel MTD tiller and the only way was to turn the tiller on its nose to get the oil out. Now I do nearly all my oil changes using the extractor. I actually can more oil out with it then using the oil drains at times.

StarTech said:

Why not just get a suction device to do the job. As a shop I got one those pneumatic oil extractors about 5 yrs ago. Things have been so much cleaner as no more dip pans to clean except when I have oil leaks.

I got it when I came across a one wheel MTD tiller and the only way was to turn the tiller on its nose to get the oil out. Now I do nearly all my oil changes using the extractor. I actually can more oil out with it then using the oil drains at times.

Click to expand...

I have one of those ,also. I use it on my outboard motor. But for the mower's. the grease gun looking one is simpler and quicker. Just suck it up and the squirt it into the empty container.

I haven't pulled a drain plug in years. One of the best tools in the shop is the HF compressed air extractor. Probably overkill for a homeowner but i started out with one you hand pump that would work fine for them.

Hammermechanicman said:

I haven't pulled a drain plug in years. One of the best tools in the shop is the HF compressed air extractor. Probably overkill for a homeowner but i started out with one you hand pump that would work fine for them.

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Probably the same model here. That reminds me I need to empty it today as I got about 4 gallons in it now but may have enough room for a couple more quarts from the engine that I got to replace the drain valve on. Dang plastic Kawasaki valve leaking again.

Like the others, I use a pump
They are also goo for sucking the oil out of old filters and even sucking spills up off the floor so save a fortune in shop rags etc .
On top of that it eliminates the warranty claims from a drain plug leaking or falling out
And in my case as I have 3 pumps, the pump stays in the engine till fresh oil goes in averting that other silly & expensive mistake .

I wipe off the dipstick and lay it on the seat till i put oil in. Saved me from a real bad day once when i got distracted by a customer.

Yeah oil extractors are the way to go..

StarTech said:

Dang plastic Kawasaki valve leaking again.

Click to expand...

I know about that, I put a rubber cap on the nipple on mine, buying time (hopefully) till I do the oil again & add the OE Hose, that should have came on there..

My Air compressor is only one I use suction to do the oil change on.

And since it is only 22 oz, I just use a 5 oz syringe.

Thank you all, i've purchased an extractor and will get to work this weekend.

Cool.

4getgto said:

And tipping on its side along with the oil comes the gas...making even more of a mess..
What an asinine way to change oil .

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And this should have been mentioned, always tip the machine carburetor side UP.
The extractor however is most likely the best method.

sidemouse said:

And this should have been mentioned, always tip the machine carburetor side UP.
The extractor however is most likely the best method.

Click to expand...

Unless the drain plug is on same side as the carburetor..

ILENGINE said:

Drain plugs started disappearing in the early 2000's when mower OEM decks started blocking the drain plug on the engine, which later progressed to since you can't access the drain then there is no reason to have it on the engine

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I beg to disagree. I mean sure, sell a model with no tap\bolt for use where you can't get to it such as on a power washer but I have seen quite a few Quantums on mowers with the flat spot where the bolt went. In other words- they still used the same mold to cast the part but want to save the 39 cents and not drill\tap the hole.

I personally have no problem about tipping it to change the oil.

Seems like when the Honda motors with no drain plug showed up Briggs followed their lead.
For the guys who tip the mower and have gas run out the cap cap vent. Put a plastic bag under the cap it will stop the leak.

upupandaway said:

I beg to disagree. I mean sure, sell a model with no tap\bolt for use where you can't get to it such as on a power washer but I have seen quite a few Quantums on mowers with the flat spot where the bolt went. In other words- they still used the same mold to cast the part but want to save the 39 cents and not drill\tap the hole.

I personally have no problem about tipping it to change the oil.

Click to expand...

The transition engines had the drain plug undrilled and unthreaded, but later models the drain plug boss was no longer in the engine pan.

ILENGINE said:

The transition engines had the drain plug undrilled and unthreaded, but later models the drain plug boss was no longer in the engine pan.

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Remember that engine moulds cost hundreds of thousands of dollars to make so no one is going to scrap them till they are worn out .
And with exotic metal moulds as used in modern casting machines that can be a very very long time ,
Add to that the equipment used to make the moulds is also very expensive so when saving every cent counts no modifications get made till it is absolutely necessary which would usually be when a new model replaces the old one .
As for saving a few cents, yes that is exactly why it is done because YOU the mower buyers have an unrealistic idea about prices so mower makers are forced to cut costs where ever possible.
If Joe Public bought on quality then 1/2 of the people would be using Honda's and Honda would still be making ride on mowers and Honda would still be the dominant top end mower engine in ride ons.
But the public has been brain washed that they can have it all for nothing so buy cheap.
And as dad used to say
"he who buys cheap pays thrice "
I am currently doing tyres on a Greenfields mower that is 42 years old for a couple who are in their 80's .
They bought it when they bought their 2 acre property 42 years ago and it will probably run another 42 years .
It was 2 times the price of all of the imported US mowers when they bought it but has worked out to be 1/4 of the price of buying one of the heavily advertised US imports none of which would have lasted this long.

combinedforces said:

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

Click to expand...

THE NEWER BRIGGS DO NOT HAVE A DRAIN PLUG. LIKE THE OTHER PERSON POSTED. NEED TO SUCK IT OUT. OR TURN THE ENGINE TO DUMP THE OIL OUT OF THE DIPSTICK OR OIL FILL

combinedforces said:

I must be the stupidest person around, …

Click to expand...

OUCH!!!!

combinedforces said:

…I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

…I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, …

Click to expand...

​

LiquiVac Oil Extraction Pump Changing System for Small Engine, Lawn Mower​

Here are the instructions for ^it^:

combinedforces said:

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

Click to expand...

combinedforces said:

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

Click to expand...

Sump drain plug number 15 ,it’s probably a socket head

Several years ago, I bought an oil vacuum extractor. A plastic tank that has an internal manual pump that creates a vacuum. With the included hoses/tubing you’re able to remove all of the old oil without any mess. I’ve been fortunate enough it also works really well on my truck and car. Costs a few bucks but saves a ton of headaches. The first time you use it on a piece of equipment, after vacuuming all of the oil you can reach, manually drain any potential remaining oil to make sure you’re getting everything.

To keep gas from coming out of the vent in the gas cap when tipping the mower over, I always remove the gas cap and place a piece of plastic, like a sandwich baggie, over the opening and put the gas cap back on. At least that stops the additional mess. Then just remove the baggie before starting the engine when finished.

I've seen in last few years on cheapo mowers where you get maybe 1 or 2 years out of it (before plastic $100 carb plugs up with dust) in 139cc range now come with instructions to never drain oil and just keep adding to it... disaster just waiting to happen, but sold as convenience to users on the shipping box. lol

4getgto said:

And tipping on its side along with the oil comes the gas...making even more of a mess..
What an asinine way to change oil .

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SMH PEOPLE DON'T KNOW YOU ARE LACKING UNLESS YOU OPEN YOUR MOUTH.

Once saw a guy tip over a mower powered by a Honda engine and the choke engagement rod/spring/cable (don't remember exactly) came off. The owner was pulling and pulling but it wouldn't run. I was across the street and heard it. Walked over and said it sounds like the choke isn't working. Sure enough it was disconnected.

milliemar said:

SMH PEOPLE DON'T KNOW YOU ARE LACKING UNLESS YOU OPEN YOUR MOUTH.

Click to expand...

And I do have to keep my mouth shut to this or I'll get banned...
Great second post by the way...

7394 said:

Wow, didn't know that..

On my vintage B&S the oil drain plug is under the deck, near the blade shaft.

Click to expand...

It is likely a flat plug with a hex socket hole. Scrape the dirt and grass off near the oil fill area. To drain the oil I usually top the mower up 90 degrees into a pan.

We're all overlooking the "elephant in the room"... If it's a Quantum engine, it's not meant for you to change the oil. If you RTFM, it will probably tell you to just check the oil, and add as necessary. The ( useless ) theory being that as the motor wears, and starts to use oil, the oil that you add will supply the necessary additives for the engine. Briggs assumes that the rest of the product will be done before the engine grenades from the worn out oil. Planned obsolescence, and, a marketing ploy.. Never needs an oil change!!

Briggs also assumes that the newer design also contaminates the oil much less than decades ago. Remember when you changed the oil in your car every 2 or 3 thousand miles?.. Now, with tighter engine tolerances, better engine management systems, and synthetic lubrication, now it's more like 6 to 10 thousand miles. The same for spark plug changes / service.

Same as John Deere.. Manual ( for a JD 160 D ), states that the hydrostatic trans ( ToughTorque K46) ... NEVER needs servicing, it also had no drain plug. You could see where one should have been, but it was spec'd that way by John Deere.. Should you have an issue, please consult your John Deere Dealership. When I read that in the manual, I couldn't believe it. After the first 50 hours, I removed the entire transaxle, and upended it over a 5 gallon bucket overnight, letting it drain out through the vent plug. Then I refilled it with the correct amount of premium synthetic Amsoil lubricant. Newer John Deere spec an oil change system where you get a "pre charged" filter.. Basically you're just putting on a fresh filter, and doing a partial oil change ... WTF?

It's planned obsolescence.. It's what happens when the bean counters run the company. They figure that by the time that it pooches from shoddy maintenance practices, that it'll be way, way out of warrantee, and you'll just buy another one.
O.K.. rant over..

Vacuum the oil out.. and stop looking for the drain plug..

Earthquake Landscaping said:

We're all overlooking the "elephant in the room"... If it's a Quantum engine, it's not meant for you to change the oil. If you RTFM, it will probably tell you to just check the oil, and add as necessary. The ( useless ) theory being that as the motor wears, and starts to use oil, the oil that you add will supply the necessary additives for the engine. Briggs assumes that the rest of the product will be done before the engine grenades from the worn out oil. Planned obsolescence, and, a marketing ploy.. Never needs an oil change!!

Click to expand...

That has been happening since the beginning of time. There is a fair amount of the consumers that never change the oil in the mowers, long before Briggs even discussed it. The add oil as needed has been happening since day one, and people are getting upset over something that has always been true.

4getgto said:

You never even had gas drip out with the oil when you set it on it side...?
You must be god..

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Boy, you’re a real piece of work! First you say “…along with the oil comes the gas”. Then you reply “…had gas DRIP out …”. I’ve done this and, maybe, a couple drops of gas comes out, but… the oil comes out quickly enough - assuming you pre-warm the oil - and this leaves a little of a mess but so does changing the oil in your car!

ILENGINE said:

That has been happening since the beginning of time. There is a fair amount of the consumers that never change the oil in the mowers, long before Briggs even discussed it. The add oil as needed has been happening since day one, and people are getting upset over something that has always been true.

Click to expand...

You're right .. But, it's not about how a consumer may or may not treat their equipment, It's about the manufacturer making it that difficult to perform maintenance easily. There's no legitimate reason for not putting in a 10 cent drain plug. It just let's them claim that it never needs an oil change.
When I bought my John Deere, the manual stated that the warrantee was 2 years or 120 hours, which ever came first. That blew my mind.

I believe I read somewhere that the EPA was supportive of the no drain oil plug scenario as it was done to prevent people improperly disposing waste oil. The point being that the machine had a six year projected life and not changing oil would not shorten that in most cases.

bobL said:

I believe I read somewhere that the EPA was supportive of the no drain oil plug scenario as it was done to prevent people improperly disposing waste oil. The point being that the machine had a six year projected life and not changing oil would not shorten that in most cases.

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I'd believe that. But, all that has accomplished is making it more difficult to get the oil out. At the end of the day, when someone tosses out a product with a 4 stroke engine, do they ever take the oil out before it goes to the dump?

What happened to the drainplug on the bottom of the engine, where the blades are?

Your best bet is to just buy an oil suction pump either at HF or Rural King. I’ve used my HF version several times for everything from removing transmission fluid and engine oil to transferring the fuel in the tanks on my vintage Harley.

Hey @bertsmobile1 , how big (or small) of a pump do I need to pull oil from a sump?

I pulled some oil out of an engine that had a lot of gas in it. That gas weakened the plastic container of the extractor. So now, when I hook the air compressor up to it (to suck out oil) it collapses.
So I got me an big empty fire extinguisher I'm going to use to hold the old oil. But I need a pump just big enough to pull the oil out.

I remember you saying something about a medical pump?

Would this work?

Specifications:
Model: Z512-604-3000N
Color: Black+silver
Material: +Aluminum
Working voltage: DC9V~14V
Rated voltage: DC 12V
Rated current: 500mA
Rated power: 6W
Suction: 5L/min
Vacuum degree: 65kpa
Maximum pressure: 120kpa

PTmowerMech said:

Hey @bertsmobile1 , how big (or small) of a pump do I need to pull oil from a sump?

I pulled some oil out of an engine that had a lot of gas in it. That gas weakened the plastic container of the extractor. So now, when I hook the air compressor up to it (to suck out oil) it collapses.

Click to expand...

That is why you need to go with pneumatic HF oil extractor. It has a 5 gallon metal tank. I do recommend using a screen filter on the pickup if emptying drain pans.

combinedforces said:

I must be the stupidest person around, but I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug for my B&S engine.

I own a B&S engine type 124702-0166-01 which is mounted to a Billy Goat leaf vacuum. I'm posting here since the engine has also been used on mowers, so please forgive me.

I cannot seem to find the oil drain plug, even after consulting Jack's Small Engines. No square lug is visible. I'm hoping someone can help me locate the drain.

Thank you very much!

Click to expand...

I will reply knowing full well I will be attacked by the small engine God's on here.
The owners manual on the mower I bought 2 years ago states that the new B&S engines DO NOT require periodic oil changes. They are designed to slowly consume oil through normal operation. You should just monitor the oil level and add accordingly.
TO BE CLEAR:
I am NOT suggesting anything, merely stating what B&S recommends.

StarTech said:

That is why you need to go with pneumatic HF oil extractor. It has a 5 gallon metal tank. I do recommend using a screen filter on the pickup if emptying drain pans.

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I almost got one from Harbor Freight a few years ago. I should have. But went with the plastic one. Bad mistake.

Most mower have a square plug on the bottom of the mower that can be removed with a 12 point socket but it is a lot less time to just open dipstick and turn on side.because no tools required. It is just smart. It helps if the fuel tank is empty but easy oil change.

X580 said:

OUCH!!!!

​

LiquiVac Oil Extraction Pump Changing System for Small Engine, Lawn Mower​

https://www.amazon.com/America-2005LV-LiquiVac-Changing-System/dp/B000OQIGA6

Click to expand...

Not too bad, but seems rather spendy for only 3qt capacity, would only be useful for small engine. For only a little more $ works for more items like passenger vehicles, etc.

chuckpen said:

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Nice.

I would still prefer a plug, a magnetic one.

Ohioguy said:

I would still prefer a plug, a magnetic one.

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I agree 100%, I only own my Mightyvac extractor due to a transmission fluid change (European vehicle) that required filling trans from below, while vehicle running and at a certain temp to get fluid to proper level. Was easiest way to do it. I have used it for some oil changes, but always use drain plug afterwards to ensure getting the rest from the bottom.

I had a boat years ago and it had a 228 Merccruiser outdrive powered by a GM 350 engine. It might have had a drain plug but siphoning was the only way to change it. Probably true of all IO drives. Never felt confidant I was getting all the oil out.

I don't have this engine but just doing a search online to help you out I came across this. It looks like partselect.com shows one at this website . https://www.partselect.com/PS929469...06-01&ModelNum=124702-3106-01&ModelID=5284154

From their main page I put in the engine # you gave and licked on the box labeled Sump Base Assemblies. If this is right, it may be under the mower. Hope this helps.

More worrisome than having gas leak out of the tank is getting gas or oil in the cylinder. Always, always tip the machine so the spark plug is on top. Whether that is for an oil change or blade removal, or whatever other maintenance you are doing. If you can't do that, then drain the gas. By doing that, you won't get gas or oil in the cylinder. I've "fixed" dozens of engines where someone didn't follow that simple rule. I happen to have an oil vacuum to suck oil out of the crankcase. I'm not a fan of that because of sludge left in the crankcase, but sometimes there is no other option. On a lawnmower I will always drain the gas and tip the mower so the oil drains out the filler. One last comment, I don't believe in the "never change your oil" mowers. I will always change the oil as part of the tuneup.

just lay a plastic grocery bag over the gas tank fill hole and screw the cap on over it. no muss no fuss

The newer engines say no need to change oil. It’s something to do with epa and the way the engine uses it all you have to do is add oil occasionally. That’s what my press washers paperwork said. I call b.s. and tip it to drain the oil. I’ve never hear of such until I bought this thing. It’s a Honda engine.

1fixitman said:

Most mower have a square plug on the bottom of the mower that can be removed with a 12 point socket but it is a lot less time to just open dipstick and turn on side.because no tools required. It is just smart. It helps if the fuel tank is empty but easy oil change.

Click to expand...

But when I do oil change on my vintage B&S Flathead, I am also gonna be removing the blade for clean / sharpen & balance. So I just heave it up on my workbench, set it on two 1 gallon paint cans & I can sit on my stool & have easy access under it..

7394 said:

Wow, didn't know that..

On my vintage B&S the oil drain plug is under the deck, near the blade shaft.

Click to expand...

Yes, the old ones had the drain plug and if you look on the one you have the aluminum boss is still there they just decided to not drought the hole tap it and insert the pipe plug somewhere back around 97 or so maybe as late as 2001 but somewhere in that vintage they stop putting drain plugs in all the small push mower vertical engines.
As others have mentioned sucking it out can be done too but I find that not to be the best way as you typically leave more oil in it.
It's my preference to run the engine for 4 or 5 minutes so you will get all the particles and dirt and suspension because otherwise the sludge part will stay down in the bottom and you won't get that out as much. After it runs for three or four minutes, just flip it over into a pan.
Some machines like edgers and blowers could be a little harder to maneuver so you might need another person but the standard 21 or 22 in push mower is very easy just to flip over into a pan.
You'll get really good at doing it especially on the push mowers and you'll find the exact sweet spot so it rests right on the edge of the plastic drain pan but not touching the muffler which could still be hot from running.
Otherwise, you'll start to melt your pan a little bit. I use those cheap plastic drain pans because I can get them to the dollar store for $1.25. used to be a dollar but you know still cheaper than the parts stores or walmart.
In actual practice though, it would be better for me to pick up a metal version of the same thing because then I could use indefinitely and they wouldn't eventually crack and have to be replaced.
I certainly prefer the style like you have that has the dipstick because some of the smaller cheaper engines and the newer cheaper ones don't even have a dipstick that comes to the top like that so it makes a mess and runs down the side of the deck. This style I'm so accustomed to that I can actually flip the mower over towards me and hold even a small mouth milk jug and fully drain the oil without spilling a drop and I don't even need a pan. It's even easier if you have one of the empty 5 quart oil jugs with the larger mouth.
I typically still use the pan though and then since I like to get all of it out I will stand above the mower on the bottom side of it and pick it up and tilt it a little bit this way in that to get the extra ounce or two of all out of it.
And then remember, the most important thing it only holds 20 oz of oil. Do not overfill.
He should also be a straight SAE 30 or hd30 oil and not a multigrade and not a synthetic because that's just not necessary and you're going to have increased oil consumption or leaks with it and you're only going to find a 5:30 or 10:30 synthetic and not a straight weight even though amsoil will claim that one of their oils is the same for a 30 and a 10w30.
Just never use indie or non detergent oil. They need to quit selling that stuff in the normal stores because nobody really understands what it's for.
That stuff hasn't been used in an internal combustion engine since around 1953 and it shouldn't be.
The dumb merchandisers at the department stores especially Walmart actually put it on the shelf almost next to the two cycle oil implying that it belongs in the outdoor power equipment arena which it does not!
That stuff should only be used for oiling a bronze bearing sleeve or a fan motor and even at that 30 weight is too thick. Most of the appropriate oils for those situations are much higher quality and cleaner and almost clear compared to an ND 30 and most are 10 to 20 weight.

PTmowerMech said:

Hey @bertsmobile1 , how big (or small) of a pump do I need to pull oil from a sump?

I pulled some oil out of an engine that had a lot of gas in it. That gas weakened the plastic container of the extractor. So now, when I hook the air compressor up to it (to suck out oil) it collapses.
So I got me an big empty fire extinguisher I'm going to use to hold the old oil. But I need a pump just big enough to pull the oil out.

I remember you saying something about a medical pump?

Would this work?
View attachment 63435
Specifications:
Model: Z512-604-3000N
Color: Black+silver
Material: +Aluminum
Working voltage: DC9V~14V
Rated voltage: DC 12V
Rated current: 500mA
Rated power: 6W
Suction: 5L/min
Vacuum degree: 65kpa
Maximum pressure: 120kpa

Click to expand...

Easy to make if you have a shop vac

Ohioguy said:

I had a boat years ago and it had a 228 Merccruiser outdrive powered by a GM 350 engine. It might have had a drain plug but siphoning was the only way to change it. Probably true of all IO drives. Never felt confidant I was getting all the oil out.

Click to expand...

The point is unless the oil is badly contaminated with water or petrol there is no need to replace every last drop
People who run big trucks and big diesel engines change 1/2 to 1/3 of the oil at a time .
The Mac Tipper had a 20 gallon sump, no one drains that out every month, not if they intend staying in business .

woodstover said:

Easy to make if you have a shop vac

Click to expand...

For just oil. A lot of equipment has been contaminated with gas. So the shop vac would explode. lol

These “never drain your oil” mowers/engines are nuts. I would never buy one. I’m one of those who over maintains my equipment. An example is my backup portable generator.. I change oil in it once a year - regardless. I occasionally start it, bring it up to temperature and test the output, it probably gets about three+ hours of operation per year. The unit is about 15 years old and runs great. Over those 15 years I’ve probably used it 5-6 times to run power in my home for several hours each time. The inside of the engine (Kawasaki) has no varnish or sludge nor any signs of corrosion. Do I spend a couple of dollars a year? Yes. But I feel confident this generator will still be going strong for at least another ten years. And I won’t be spending a big chunk of money on a new one.

bertsmobile1 said:

The point is unless the oil is badly contaminated with water or petrol there is no need to replace every last drop
People who run big trucks and big diesel engines change 1/2 to 1/3 of the oil at a time .
The Mac Tipper had a 20 gallon sump, no one drains that out every month, not if they intend staying in business .

Click to expand...

This is interesting. Like Ohioguy, I also pumped oil out of an inboard marine engine and wondered what I was leaving in the oil pan.

I read on an automotive forum that extracting crankcase oil is becoming more common at service facilities when doing vehicle oil changes. One reason given was that some vehicles have undercarriage panels with multiple fasteners blocking easy access to the drain plug. Extracting also eliminates the chance of improperly installed drain plugs.

I know for a fact that some small verticals still have drain plugs back in 2018. I install a 126M02-1018-F1 on a log splitter and had to note that the drain plug was no longer accessible due have to rotate the engine 90 degree due to recoil pull location. I informed the customer to return for oil changes.

BudLight72 said:

These “never drain your oil” mowers/engines are nuts. I would never buy one. I’m one of those who over maintains my equipment. An example is my backup portable generator.. I change oil in it once a year - regardless. I occasionally start it, bring it up to temperature and test the output, it probably gets about three+ hours of operation per year. The unit is about 15 years old and runs great. Over those 15 years I’ve probably used it 5-6 times to run power in my home for several hours each time. The inside of the engine (Kawasaki) has no varnish or sludge nor any signs of corrosion. Do I spend a couple of dollars a year? Yes. But I feel confident this generator will still be going strong for at least another ten years. And I won’t be spending a big chunk of money on a new one.

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You can buy one and still change the oil just like you normally would. What everybody is missing is the no oil change also requires normal maintenance of the spark plug and air filter. And for the people that don't change their oil, probably don't do any service at all. Or maybe just replace the mower every couple of years and send the old mower to the landfill.

Lots of boat shops use oil extractors. Some I/Os are an absolute pain to get to the oil pan. Let's stuff a car engine in a boat. Of course with the 4 stroke outboards up to 600HP I/Os are a dying breed. As they should be.

Hammermechanicman said:

Of course with the 4 stroke outboards up to 600HP I/Os are a dying breed. As they should be.

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I have not been part of the boating scene for years. Is the outboard advantage that maintenance is easier on an externally mounted engine?

Outboards have many advantages. Weight, ease of mounting, ease of maintenance, less space used in boat. Back when 125HP outboard was considered big if you wanted big HP it was an I/O. If you have ever done much work on boats you will find most I/Os are a PITA to work on.

I’ve worked at a couple of different repair shops over the years, both having pneumatic lift tables, and protocol for walk-behind mowers, tillers, and other smaller 4-cycle equipment was to tip it over on its side (always dipstick side down, of course). Sometimes you needed to prop the engine or handle with a wood block if the unit needed more stability once tipped. Warming the engine up first always sped up the draining process, but most times, during draining, I cleaned under the deck and sharpened the blade to get three birds with one stone. The only times I made a mess was if I didn’t properly place my drain pan before pulling the dipstick. I have a suction pump, but seldom use it. I’ve changed a lot of oil over the years in these engines, and I’ve found this process to work the best for me. I’ve seen so many customers who have rolled their mower over with carb side down, only to soak air filters and carbs with oil and gas. It’s amazing to find out that practically all of those mower owners were unaware of that, and they’re very appreciative when you let them know.