Cannot find oil drain plug

[ILENGINE]

These “never drain your oil” mowers/engines are nuts. I would never buy one. I’m one of those who over maintains my equipment. An example is my backup portable generator.. I change oil in it once a year - regardless. I occasionally start it, bring it up to temperature and test the output, it probably gets about three+ hours of operation per year. The unit is about 15 years old and runs great. Over those 15 years I’ve probably used it 5-6 times to run power in my home for several hours each time. The inside of the engine (Kawasaki) has no varnish or sludge nor any signs of corrosion. Do I spend a couple of dollars a year? Yes. But I feel confident this generator will still be going strong for at least another ten years. And I won’t be spending a big chunk of money on a new one.

You can buy one and still change the oil just like you normally would. What everybody is missing is the no oil change also requires normal maintenance of the spark plug and air filter. And for the people that don't change their oil, probably don't do any service at all. Or maybe just replace the mower every couple of years and send the old mower to the landfill.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Lots of boat shops use oil extractors. Some I/Os are an absolute pain to get to the oil pan. Let's stuff a car engine in a boat. Of course with the 4 stroke outboards up to 600HP I/Os are a dying breed. As they should be.

 

[kc27]

Of course with the 4 stroke outboards up to 600HP I/Os are a dying breed. As they should be.

I have not been part of the boating scene for years. Is the outboard advantage that maintenance is easier on an externally mounted engine?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Outboards have many advantages. Weight, ease of mounting, ease of maintenance, less space used in boat. Back when 125HP outboard was considered big if you wanted big HP it was an I/O. If you have ever done much work on boats you will find most I/Os are a PITA to work on.

 

[elmrfudd]

I’ve worked at a couple of different repair shops over the years, both having pneumatic lift tables, and protocol for walk-behind mowers, tillers, and other smaller 4-cycle equipment was to tip it over on its side (always dipstick side down, of course). Sometimes you needed to prop the engine or handle with a wood block if the unit needed more stability once tipped. Warming the engine up first always sped up the draining process, but most times, during draining, I cleaned under the deck and sharpened the blade to get three birds with one stone. The only times I made a mess was if I didn’t properly place my drain pan before pulling the dipstick. I have a suction pump, but seldom use it. I’ve changed a lot of oil over the years in these engines, and I’ve found this process to work the best for me. I’ve seen so many customers who have rolled their mower over with carb side down, only to soak air filters and carbs with oil and gas. It’s amazing to find out that practically all of those mower owners were unaware of that, and they’re very appreciative when you let them know.