Buying a new Tiger Cat 52". What Engine should I get?

[gmccall]

Know I have not. You would think that The repair shop or Scag even would do so.

The engines are mechanical so it just takes a mechanic that may be above average in experience.

The repair shop did contact me to this afternoon to say they have the engine running right but want to keep the mower a few days more to make sure.
They did say they took the carb apart amongst other things but do not know what the problem was.

I will post the results for all to benefit.

This has been a nightmare.

I did get my mower back last week and it is running OK now.
Oddly the mower shop could not tell me what they did for sure that cured the engine problems.

What a bad experience is all I can say.

 

[Champ]

Have been using my Tiger Cat for the last 2-3 months and very pleased with it. Have to say only thing I don't like is where the hour meter is located. Very happy with my decision to purchase a Scag with the Kawi.

 

[Mad Mackie]

Having serviced many machines over the years and owning a Tiger Cub, I'm going to say that the hourmeter location is better for the hourmeter than panel mount or other spots that manufacturers have placed them. On panel mounts, although more visible, they are more vulnerable to damage and scratches from the operator cleaning off the dust with his finger. On an older Toro that I have serviced, the meter is mounted on the panel below the seat hinge near the keyswitch, which is OK, but the owner/operator didn't know it was there and when getting on or off the machine, the heels of his shoes had cracked the clear plastic lens and dust had filled in behind it. I blow down my machines following almost every use and clear the dust off the hourmeter and look at it to see what time has passed and check my maintenance list that is stuck under the seat.
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[Mad Mackie]

I did get my mower back last week and it is running OK now.
Oddly the mower shop could not tell me what they did for sure that cured the engine problems.

What a bad experience is all I can say.

Over that last 30 years or so I have run into problems with carbs with metal chips having been left in them from manufacturing. This is not an easy situation to discover and not easily corrected. Larger HP Yamaha outboard motors in the late 80s/ early 90s had frequent carb problems of this nature. Once one becomes aware of this, then troubleshooting becomes easier and less time consuming. However it would be nice to know just what was ailing your Tiger Cat!!!
just some thoughts from
Mad Mackie in CT:laughing::biggrin::smile:

 

[DSepe]

Ummmmmm - NO! You have the countersteering concept correct when it comes to bikes. You have it wrong concerning ZTRs. There is no "countersteering" on a ZTR because it cannot pivot it's CG transversly over the vertical axis of it's path of travel. You can "lean" a motorcycle left or right and you balance the effects of centrifugal and centripedal forces. Counterstreering only applies to traditional two-wheeled vehicles, and is the concept of making the front wheel transfer off the travel line of the rear wheel, creating a controlled fall of sorts. When you push with your left arm on the left handlebar, it causes the handlebar to "turn" right, which causes the front tire to move to the right of the CoG by altering the front tire off the path of travel of the rear, and therefore the bike "falls" to the left. As the front wheel continues to stay outside the relative path of travel, the bike is traveling in an arc to the left. That arc begets the centripedal force; it's the acceleration of your mass trying to continue in a straight line at infinite vectors. Gravity provides the centrifugal force (falling toward center of the arc with infinite continual vectors). They balance out as long as you maintain the arc via the velocity and steering input. Yada, yada, yada ... simply put; push left, go left. The reason it's referred to as "counter steering" is because four-wheel folks consider it turning the "wheel" (handlebar) to the right, but the bike goes left. If the motorcycle had a wheel rather than a bar, it would indeed mean you'd have to "turn" the "wheel" to the right to go left. Hence, the term "countersteering". But you don't "lean" a ZTR. When you push on the left control lever on a ZTR, the unit will go RIGHT and not left (presuming you're holding the other control lever at some constant relative to the motion of the left one being moved forward) because you are advancing the left wheel motor drive relative to the other. ZTRs don't counter steer. simply put; push left, go right. If the ZTR had a wheel instead of control levers (and some do), you'd turn the wheel right to go right. There is no "contersteering" on a ZTR. I understand what you were trying to say, but you were incorrect in the way you stated it. Yes - when you drive a ZTR you push the left bar to go right; in a way that could be "counter driving". But it's not counter-steering. And the two are NOT the same when it comes to bikes versus anything with more than two wheels.

Thanks Bill Nye the science guy.

 

[monkfarm]

Anyone tried that diesel engine Scag has or had? I thought that might be a great idea, my 27hp kaw burns quite a bit of fuel. The torgue for turning the blades etc might be harmonious with a good diesel.

 

[dnewton3]

I have not run a diesel Scag, but I have experience on both a diesel Dixie Chopper (50hp turbo Yanmar that is a BEAST) and running a Kubota ZD21.
I like both and they do admirably well. The torque gives a bit more "oomph" in heavy grass, and they are better for fuel economy.
However, one should not go blindly into purchasing a diesel. They cost more at the negotiating table as well as during service.

If you only are going to use the mower as a part time venture (homeowner or occasional commercial) you'll find it hard to cost justify the very pricey diesel at time or purchase.
If you are going to use it for years of heavy commercial use, nearly non-stop all season long, then the fuel savings and longevity can pay for itself.

The only way to know where the breakpoint is would be to sit down and do a detailed, calculated analysis of average acres mowed, expected fuel consumed, average fuel costs, etc and expected lifecycle.

As you can see from my sig line, I bought a Scag with an air-cooled gasser because I only use it around my 8 acres for trimming around the home, trees, etc. I'll NEVER wear out the engine, and it was the least expensive option. I use my diesel Kubota tractor with a 7' deck for mowing the open areas, and the Scag for trimming.

My point? Don't over-buy; it's just as disappointing as under-buying. A diesel engine is a great answer only to specific questions; it's not a one-size-fits-all answer for everything.

 

[Mad Mackie]

I have not run a diesel Scag, but I have experience on both a diesel Dixie Chopper (50hp turbo Yanmar that is a BEAST) and running a Kubota ZD21.
I like both and they do admirably well. The torque gives a bit more "oomph" in heavy grass, and they are better for fuel economy.
However, one should not go blindly into purchasing a diesel. They cost more at the negotiating table as well as during service.

If you only are going to use the mower as a part time venture (homeowner or occasional commercial) you'll find it hard to cost justify the very pricey diesel at time or purchase.
If you are going to use it for years of heavy commercial use, nearly non-stop all season long, then the fuel savings and longevity can pay for itself.

The only way to know where the breakpoint is would be to sit down and do a detailed, calculated analysis of average acres mowed, expected fuel consumed, average fuel costs, etc and expected lifecycle.

As you can see from my sig line, I bought a Scag with an air-cooled gasser because I only use it around my 8 acres for trimming around the home, trees, etc. I'll NEVER wear out the engine, and it was the least expensive option. I use my diesel Kubota tractor with a 7' deck for mowing the open areas, and the Scag for trimming.

My point? Don't over-buy; it's just as disappointing as under-buying. A diesel engine is a great answer only to specific questions; it's not a one-size-fits-all answer for everything.

Well said!

 

[gmccall]

I did get my mower back last week and it is running OK now.
Oddly the mower shop could not tell me what they did for sure that cured the engine problems.

What a bad experience is all I can say.

Well..........one more time,

Mower is back in the shop for a no-start again when engine is hot.

Obviously the problem was never repaired.

Diagnoses found the Starter/solenoid the problem .
Part on order.

 

[DSepe]

Well..........one more time, Mower is back in the shop for a no-start again when engine is hot. Obviously the problem was never repaired. Diagnoses found the Starter/solenoid the problem . Part on order.

What a lemon