Thanks Mark. According to that checklist, the clutch is bad (its reading 0.L - open line - on the ohm meter) because its "below" 2.4ohms. But that brings up the interesting question, do I have a short in the line as well (since I was registering 4v @ the clutch)? I didn't have the engine on and running, I just had the switch turned on and PTO switch turned on. Would having the engine on have made a difference (I wouldn't think so...but Im new to mowers).
bringing an 06 troybilt rtz back to life...
- Thread starter 97runner
- Start date
Thanks Mark. According to that checklist, the clutch is bad (its reading 0.L - open line - on the ohm meter) because its "below" 2.4ohms. But that brings up the interesting question, do I have a short in the line as well (since I was registering 4v @ the clutch)? I didn't have the engine on and running, I just had the switch turned on and PTO switch turned on. Would having the engine on have made a difference (I wouldn't think so...but Im new to mowers).
mechanic mark
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Threads
- 175
- Messages
- 7,482
Just a reminder, safety first always. Read and reread instructions if necessary, do not deviate, in other words one step at a time following directions to the letter.
Error Troy bilt contact info.
Last edited:
Well, according to the checklist, the clutch is bad - its under 2.4ohms. It is registering 0.L (open line), which means theres a failure somewhere in the clutch.
However, that shouldn't effect voltage at the connector. Others say that I should be getting 12v at that connector, I registered 4v. Does that mean I have two problems: bad clutch and bad wiring? Can I jump the PTO off directly from the battery for testing purposes to see if the wiring is bad?
If anyone has a wiring diagram to my mower, that would be great.
Carscw
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2011
- Threads
- 66
- Messages
- 6,375
You can run a power wire from the battery to the clutch
Ok. Since I've never done it on a pto, how do you go about it? I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.
Update:
I cleaned all the contacts I could. No change there. Just for fun, I jumped the pto off directly from the battery, it worked perfectly. So I guess that means I have something ba in the wiring somewhere, correct?
I know it's not kosher, but I may cut the pto wires and wire in a fuse enabled toggle switch and by pass everything. That way I can at least mow my lawn, which is getting tall since I've been messing with this thing.
Carscw
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2011
- Threads
- 66
- Messages
- 6,375
I have two mowers that a ran a toggle switch for the pto.
Use the power wire going into the pto switch as your power and get a inline fuse
This is my thinking: snip the two wires coming to the pto. Take that connector and make new wires. Run a fuse on the positive line, to a toggle. Then connect the other wire to the neg post of the battery. Re-connect the connector, viola a working pto.
Sound about right?
Guess not. I cut the pto wire and ran the toggle. The pto will come on but the mower won't try to start. I guess it all ties in somehow...
So I reset it (rewired the pto back "inline" to the wire harness). Now it won't start and keeps popping the 20a fuse from the battery.
Edit: Its apparent that I fried something, somewhere. The battery checks out good with a multimeter and the solenoid looks good (no burnt marks). One of the wires leading to the PTO is completely fried and runs the entire length of the loom (up to as far as I can trace it). Question is, do I attempt to buy a new harness and swap it out or do I just scrap the mower? I did find a service manual online for a MTD mower (I presume its pretty much the same thing as the Troybilt). Should I go that route?
Last edited:
Ok. So I decided to push forward. I bought a new harness and installed it yesterday. The mower started right up, but still no PTO. So far I've:
Replaced wire harness
New battery
Cleaned all grounds/contacts
New pto switch
Tuned up engine (plugs, filters, etc)
I haven't tested the voltage going to the pto from the switch, yet. To make sure I'm doing that correctly, do I turn the ignition on, pull the pto switch on, and multimeter the plug going to the clutch? As I said, just want to make sure I'm testing that right. I haven't tried using a jumper wire on the clutch itself since the new harness, but the last time I did, the clutch engaged. I don't want to ruin this new harness, so I won't be cutting wires or anything. If I can't figure it out, what's the "best" way to jump the clutch directly to the battery (so I can at least mow temporarily)? Would a t-tap splice work?
Replaced wire harness
New battery
Cleaned all grounds/contacts
New pto switch
Tuned up engine (plugs, filters, etc)
I haven't tested the voltage going to the pto from the switch, yet. To make sure I'm doing that correctly, do I turn the ignition on, pull the pto switch on, and multimeter the plug going to the clutch? As I said, just want to make sure I'm testing that right. I haven't tried using a jumper wire on the clutch itself since the new harness, but the last time I did, the clutch engaged. I don't want to ruin this new harness, so I won't be cutting wires or anything. If I can't figure it out, what's the "best" way to jump the clutch directly to the battery (so I can at least mow temporarily)? Would a t-tap splice work?
Last edited: