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bringing an 06 troybilt rtz back to life...
#1
9
97runner
9
97runner
Hello all,
I was recently given a 2006 troybilt 50" zero turn. This mower had a pto switch issue and the previous owner decided to park it and buy a new mower. The mower was put in a barn and has sat for a couple of years. I loaded it on the trailer today and brought it home. I wish I could say that it loaded easy, but we had to use his current zero turn to push it onto the trailer. I feel that's a bad sign, but it was given to me so...
Anyway, I'm making a list of what to do to bring it back to life. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, though I don't have any lawn mower / zero turn experience. What I have so far is:
Drain / replace fluids (oil, gas)
New spark plug
Clean or replace air filter
New battery
Check / replace belts and tires (rear tires will not hold air and look dry rotted)
What else am I missing? My other concern is that the left rear wheel (if sitting on the mower) will not free spin. The other seems to turn fine. I downloaded the manual when I got home and read that there are two rods you engage to move the mower by hand ("transmission bypass rods" is what they're called). These were not in "move by hand" mode when we loaded the mower, but seem to have no effect either "in" or "out".
Is the transmission messed up from having been sitting so long? The previous owner said it ran fine when he parked it, it was just an issue with the pto (which I'm guessing is the switch). Any advice on how to proceed would be great.
Thanks!
I was recently given a 2006 troybilt 50" zero turn. This mower had a pto switch issue and the previous owner decided to park it and buy a new mower. The mower was put in a barn and has sat for a couple of years. I loaded it on the trailer today and brought it home. I wish I could say that it loaded easy, but we had to use his current zero turn to push it onto the trailer. I feel that's a bad sign, but it was given to me so...
Anyway, I'm making a list of what to do to bring it back to life. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, though I don't have any lawn mower / zero turn experience. What I have so far is:
Drain / replace fluids (oil, gas)
New spark plug
Clean or replace air filter
New battery
Check / replace belts and tires (rear tires will not hold air and look dry rotted)
What else am I missing? My other concern is that the left rear wheel (if sitting on the mower) will not free spin. The other seems to turn fine. I downloaded the manual when I got home and read that there are two rods you engage to move the mower by hand ("transmission bypass rods" is what they're called). These were not in "move by hand" mode when we loaded the mower, but seem to have no effect either "in" or "out".
Is the transmission messed up from having been sitting so long? The previous owner said it ran fine when he parked it, it was just an issue with the pto (which I'm guessing is the switch). Any advice on how to proceed would be great.
Thanks!
#2
M
mechanic mark
M
mechanic mark
Troy-Bilt Operator's Manuals & Illustrated Parts Diagrams
Professional Shop Manuals
file:///C:/Users/Alex/Downloads/2000-MTD-Technical-Handbook-Service-Manual.pdf
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
Professional Shop Manuals
file:///C:/Users/Alex/Downloads/2000-MTD-Technical-Handbook-Service-Manual.pdf
"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts"
#3
9
97runner
Thanks, Mark. I downloaded the manual from Troy-bilt's site when I got home, but it doesn't really focus on troubleshooting. My biggest concern right now is that there is something wrong with the transmission since one wheel is locked up and the other isn't. Even though the mower was free, I don't want to invest a ton of money into this project only to find "this leads to that" and Im always traveling further down a rabbit hole.
Im hoping that someone will chime in that has experience with these mowers and can tell me how to test or what to look for in the wheel area (or transmission). The transmission is sealed and cannot be checked.
9
97runner
Thanks, Mark. I downloaded the manual from Troy-bilt's site when I got home, but it doesn't really focus on troubleshooting. My biggest concern right now is that there is something wrong with the transmission since one wheel is locked up and the other isn't. Even though the mower was free, I don't want to invest a ton of money into this project only to find "this leads to that" and Im always traveling further down a rabbit hole.
Im hoping that someone will chime in that has experience with these mowers and can tell me how to test or what to look for in the wheel area (or transmission). The transmission is sealed and cannot be checked.
#4
9
97runner
9
97runner
Ok, I wanted to update.
When I went to unload the mower from the trailer, I must have freed up a seized part, because the wheels turned freely. After doing an inspection, I was able to jump the battery off and it started! The PTO did not engage though. No big deal, I expected that. So I ordered all the parts I needed to do a tune up and a new PTO switch. Went through and tuned everything up, put the new switch in, and started it up. The PTO did start that time! Great! The PTO engaged and disengaged when I would back up (like its supposed to).
I finished up for the night and came back a few days later when my new blades arrived. Put those on and took it out to test how it would do. No PTO engagement. While fiddling around, suddenly the PTO started working. I did a test cut and it worked fine until I had to shut the machine off to put more gas in. The PTO hasn't worked since. I did multimeter the ignition and PTO switch. I am getting 12v at both places. I did check at the PTO clutch. I am getting 4v at the clutch with the PTO switch turned on. Is this the normal amount of voltage? I figure it is, since I doubt it would need the full 12v to activate the PTO.
My guess is that the clutch is bad. Does that sound about right? I just wanted to get opinions before I dropped the money on a clutch.
When I went to unload the mower from the trailer, I must have freed up a seized part, because the wheels turned freely. After doing an inspection, I was able to jump the battery off and it started! The PTO did not engage though. No big deal, I expected that. So I ordered all the parts I needed to do a tune up and a new PTO switch. Went through and tuned everything up, put the new switch in, and started it up. The PTO did start that time! Great! The PTO engaged and disengaged when I would back up (like its supposed to).
I finished up for the night and came back a few days later when my new blades arrived. Put those on and took it out to test how it would do. No PTO engagement. While fiddling around, suddenly the PTO started working. I did a test cut and it worked fine until I had to shut the machine off to put more gas in. The PTO hasn't worked since. I did multimeter the ignition and PTO switch. I am getting 12v at both places. I did check at the PTO clutch. I am getting 4v at the clutch with the PTO switch turned on. Is this the normal amount of voltage? I figure it is, since I doubt it would need the full 12v to activate the PTO.
My guess is that the clutch is bad. Does that sound about right? I just wanted to get opinions before I dropped the money on a clutch.
#5
Carscw
You need 12 volt to work the clutch.
I would trace the wire from the clutch to the switch. And the ground.
Carscw
Ok, I wanted to update. When I went to unload the mower from the trailer, I must have freed up a seized part, because the wheels turned freely. After doing an inspection, I was able to jump the battery off and it started! The PTO did not engage though. No big deal, I expected that. So I ordered all the parts I needed to do a tune up and a new PTO switch. Went through and tuned everything up, put the new switch in, and started it up. The PTO did start that time! Great! The PTO engaged and disengaged when I would back up (like its supposed to). I finished up for the night and came back a few days later when my new blades arrived. Put those on and took it out to test how it would do. No PTO engagement. While fiddling around, suddenly the PTO started working. I did a test cut and it worked fine until I had to shut the machine off to put more gas in. The PTO hasn't worked since. I did multimeter the ignition and PTO switch. I am getting 12v at both places. I did check at the PTO clutch. I am getting 4v at the clutch with the PTO switch turned on. Is this the normal amount of voltage? I figure it is, since I doubt it would need the full 12v to activate the PTO. My guess is that the clutch is bad. Does that sound about right? I just wanted to get opinions before I dropped the money on a clutch.
You need 12 volt to work the clutch.
I would trace the wire from the clutch to the switch. And the ground.
#6
Carscw
Carscw
The clutch draws a lot of amps
#7
9
97runner
There are several wires that go from the PTO switch to a wire loom. The loom goes down to the engine, but "splits" off two wires that run to the PTO clutch. As I said, I unhooked the clutch and put my multimeter (set to DC) and with the pto switch on, received a measurement of 4v at that connection.
Where would I look for a ground? This may seem odd, but the battery terminal connections are fairly corroded from use/sitting in a barn. I didn't have anything around to clean those with (such as a wire brush, chemicals, etc). Could that be the issue? But, where are some common ground areas to look for corrosion, etc.? As I (think I) mentioned in a previous post, the previous owner had an issue with the PTO not engaging, which is why he parked the mower and bought a new one. It has been sitting in a barn for 2-3 years.
All the safety features work as they should, so I don't think its the safety switch (was mentioned by a friend it could be this). As you said, it could be a ground. Where would I look for that?
I should also mention that I did switch the meter over to Ohms and put the leads onto the connector of the clutch itself. I did not receive a reading (my display shows 0.L when its "open").
9
97runner
You need 12 volt to work the clutch.
I would trace the wire from the clutch to the switch. And the ground.
There are several wires that go from the PTO switch to a wire loom. The loom goes down to the engine, but "splits" off two wires that run to the PTO clutch. As I said, I unhooked the clutch and put my multimeter (set to DC) and with the pto switch on, received a measurement of 4v at that connection.
Where would I look for a ground? This may seem odd, but the battery terminal connections are fairly corroded from use/sitting in a barn. I didn't have anything around to clean those with (such as a wire brush, chemicals, etc). Could that be the issue? But, where are some common ground areas to look for corrosion, etc.? As I (think I) mentioned in a previous post, the previous owner had an issue with the PTO not engaging, which is why he parked the mower and bought a new one. It has been sitting in a barn for 2-3 years.
All the safety features work as they should, so I don't think its the safety switch (was mentioned by a friend it could be this). As you said, it could be a ground. Where would I look for that?
I should also mention that I did switch the meter over to Ohms and put the leads onto the connector of the clutch itself. I did not receive a reading (my display shows 0.L when its "open").
#8
Carscw
First thing remove and clean the battery terminals. Scrape them with a knife or screwdriver.
Take the plug off the pto switch and clean the pins in it. So we will know it is making a good connection.
Carscw
There are several wires that go from the PTO switch to a wire loom. The loom goes down to the engine, but "splits" off two wires that run to the PTO clutch. As I said, I unhooked the clutch and put my multimeter (set to DC) and with the pto switch on, received a measurement of 4v at that connection. Where would I look for a ground? This may seem odd, but the battery terminal connections are fairly corroded from use/sitting in a barn. I didn't have anything around to clean those with (such as a wire brush, chemicals, etc). Could that be the issue? But, where are some common ground areas to look for corrosion, etc.? As I (think I) mentioned in a previous post, the previous owner had an issue with the PTO not engaging, which is why he parked the mower and bought a new one. It has been sitting in a barn for 2-3 years. All the safety features work as they should, so I don't think its the safety switch (was mentioned by a friend it could be this). As you said, it could be a ground. Where would I look for that?
First thing remove and clean the battery terminals. Scrape them with a knife or screwdriver.
Take the plug off the pto switch and clean the pins in it. So we will know it is making a good connection.
#9
9
97runner
I was able to clean the pins off (I had electrical cleaner). The pins were not actually not corroded and looked very clean to start with. The battery terminals, on the other hand, need a cleaning. But as I said, I didn't have anything to scrub it with (cleaner alone didn't do much).
But that still doesn't answer the 0.L reading on the meter when I connected it to the PTO clutch directly. Doesn't that mean its bad? I read somewhere that an electric clutch should get a small reading if its good (between 204ohms). If you get 0.L, theres a short in the clutch. Is this incorrect?
9
97runner
First thing remove and clean the battery terminals. Scrape them with a knife or screwdriver.
Take the plug off the pto switch and clean the pins in it. So we will know it is making a good connection.
I was able to clean the pins off (I had electrical cleaner). The pins were not actually not corroded and looked very clean to start with. The battery terminals, on the other hand, need a cleaning. But as I said, I didn't have anything to scrub it with (cleaner alone didn't do much).
But that still doesn't answer the 0.L reading on the meter when I connected it to the PTO clutch directly. Doesn't that mean its bad? I read somewhere that an electric clutch should get a small reading if its good (between 204ohms). If you get 0.L, theres a short in the clutch. Is this incorrect?
#10
M
mechanic mark
Fixing Electric Clutches
M
mechanic mark
I was able to clean the pins off (I had electrical cleaner). The pins were not actually not corroded and looked very clean to start with. The battery terminals, on the other hand, need a cleaning. But as I said, I didn't have anything to scrub it with (cleaner alone didn't do much).
But that still doesn't answer the 0.L reading on the meter when I connected it to the PTO clutch directly. Doesn't that mean its bad? I read somewhere that an electric clutch should get a small reading if its good (between 204ohms). If you get 0.L, theres a short in the clutch. Is this incorrect?
Fixing Electric Clutches
#11
9
97runner
Thanks Mark. According to that checklist, the clutch is bad (its reading 0.L - open line - on the ohm meter) because its "below" 2.4ohms. But that brings up the interesting question, do I have a short in the line as well (since I was registering 4v @ the clutch)? I didn't have the engine on and running, I just had the switch turned on and PTO switch turned on. Would having the engine on have made a difference (I wouldn't think so...but Im new to mowers).
9
97runner
Thanks Mark. According to that checklist, the clutch is bad (its reading 0.L - open line - on the ohm meter) because its "below" 2.4ohms. But that brings up the interesting question, do I have a short in the line as well (since I was registering 4v @ the clutch)? I didn't have the engine on and running, I just had the switch turned on and PTO switch turned on. Would having the engine on have made a difference (I wouldn't think so...but Im new to mowers).
#12
M
mechanic mark
Just a reminder, safety first always. Read and reread instructions if necessary, do not deviate, in other words one step at a time following directions to the letter.
Error Troy bilt contact info.
M
mechanic mark
Thanks Mark. According to that checklist, the clutch is bad (its reading 0.L - open line - on the ohm meter) because its "below" 2.4ohms. But that brings up the interesting question, do I have a short in the line as well (since I was registering 4v @ the clutch)? I didn't have the engine on and running, I just had the switch turned on and PTO switch turned on. Would having the engine on have made a difference (I wouldn't think so...but Im new to mowers).
Just a reminder, safety first always. Read and reread instructions if necessary, do not deviate, in other words one step at a time following directions to the letter.
Error Troy bilt contact info.
#13
9
97runner
Well, according to the checklist, the clutch is bad - its under 2.4ohms. It is registering 0.L (open line), which means theres a failure somewhere in the clutch.
However, that shouldn't effect voltage at the connector. Others say that I should be getting 12v at that connector, I registered 4v. Does that mean I have two problems: bad clutch and bad wiring? Can I jump the PTO off directly from the battery for testing purposes to see if the wiring is bad?
If anyone has a wiring diagram to my mower, that would be great.
9
97runner
Just a reminder, safety first always. Read and reread instructions if necessary, do not deviate, in other words one step at a time following directions to the letter.
Well, according to the checklist, the clutch is bad - its under 2.4ohms. It is registering 0.L (open line), which means theres a failure somewhere in the clutch.
However, that shouldn't effect voltage at the connector. Others say that I should be getting 12v at that connector, I registered 4v. Does that mean I have two problems: bad clutch and bad wiring? Can I jump the PTO off directly from the battery for testing purposes to see if the wiring is bad?
If anyone has a wiring diagram to my mower, that would be great.
#14
Carscw
You can run a power wire from the battery to the clutch
Carscw
Well, according to the checklist, the clutch is bad - its under 2.4ohms. It is registering 0.L (open line), which means theres a failure somewhere in the clutch. However, that shouldn't effect voltage at the connector. Others say that I should be getting 12v at that connector, I registered 4v. Does that mean I have two problems: bad clutch and bad wiring? Can I jump the PTO off directly from the battery for testing purposes to see if the wiring is bad? If anyone has a wiring diagram to my mower, that would be great.
You can run a power wire from the battery to the clutch
#15
9
97runner
Ok. Since I've never done it on a pto, how do you go about it? I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.
9
97runner
You can run a power wire from the battery to the clutch
Ok. Since I've never done it on a pto, how do you go about it? I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.
#16
9
97runner
Update:
I cleaned all the contacts I could. No change there. Just for fun, I jumped the pto off directly from the battery, it worked perfectly. So I guess that means I have something ba in the wiring somewhere, correct?
I know it's not kosher, but I may cut the pto wires and wire in a fuse enabled toggle switch and by pass everything. That way I can at least mow my lawn, which is getting tall since I've been messing with this thing.
9
97runner
You can run a power wire from the battery to the clutch
Update:
I cleaned all the contacts I could. No change there. Just for fun, I jumped the pto off directly from the battery, it worked perfectly. So I guess that means I have something ba in the wiring somewhere, correct?
I know it's not kosher, but I may cut the pto wires and wire in a fuse enabled toggle switch and by pass everything. That way I can at least mow my lawn, which is getting tall since I've been messing with this thing.
#17
Carscw
I have two mowers that a ran a toggle switch for the pto.
Use the power wire going into the pto switch as your power and get a inline fuse
Carscw
Update: I cleaned all the contacts I could. No change there. Just for fun, I jumped the pto off directly from the battery, it worked perfectly. So I guess that means I have something ba in the wiring somewhere, correct? I know it's not kosher, but I may cut the pto wires and wire in a fuse enabled toggle switch and by pass everything. That way I can at least mow my lawn, which is getting tall since I've been messing with this thing.
I have two mowers that a ran a toggle switch for the pto.
Use the power wire going into the pto switch as your power and get a inline fuse
#18
9
97runner
This is my thinking: snip the two wires coming to the pto. Take that connector and make new wires. Run a fuse on the positive line, to a toggle. Then connect the other wire to the neg post of the battery. Re-connect the connector, viola a working pto.
Sound about right?
9
97runner
I have two mowers that a ran a toggle switch for the pto.
Use the power wire going into the pto switch as your power and get a inline fuse
This is my thinking: snip the two wires coming to the pto. Take that connector and make new wires. Run a fuse on the positive line, to a toggle. Then connect the other wire to the neg post of the battery. Re-connect the connector, viola a working pto.
Sound about right?
#19
9
97runner
Guess not. I cut the pto wire and ran the toggle. The pto will come on but the mower won't try to start. I guess it all ties in somehow...
So I reset it (rewired the pto back "inline" to the wire harness). Now it won't start and keeps popping the 20a fuse from the battery.
Edit: Its apparent that I fried something, somewhere. The battery checks out good with a multimeter and the solenoid looks good (no burnt marks). One of the wires leading to the PTO is completely fried and runs the entire length of the loom (up to as far as I can trace it). Question is, do I attempt to buy a new harness and swap it out or do I just scrap the mower? I did find a service manual online for a MTD mower (I presume its pretty much the same thing as the Troybilt). Should I go that route?
9
97runner
This is my thinking: snip the two wires coming to the pto. Take that connector and make new wires. Run a fuse on the positive line, to a toggle. Then connect the other wire to the neg post of the battery. Re-connect the connector, viola a working pto.
Sound about right?
Guess not. I cut the pto wire and ran the toggle. The pto will come on but the mower won't try to start. I guess it all ties in somehow...
So I reset it (rewired the pto back "inline" to the wire harness). Now it won't start and keeps popping the 20a fuse from the battery.
Edit: Its apparent that I fried something, somewhere. The battery checks out good with a multimeter and the solenoid looks good (no burnt marks). One of the wires leading to the PTO is completely fried and runs the entire length of the loom (up to as far as I can trace it). Question is, do I attempt to buy a new harness and swap it out or do I just scrap the mower? I did find a service manual online for a MTD mower (I presume its pretty much the same thing as the Troybilt). Should I go that route?
#20
9
97runner
9
97runner
Ok. So I decided to push forward. I bought a new harness and installed it yesterday. The mower started right up, but still no PTO. So far I've:
Replaced wire harness
New battery
Cleaned all grounds/contacts
New pto switch
Tuned up engine (plugs, filters, etc)
I haven't tested the voltage going to the pto from the switch, yet. To make sure I'm doing that correctly, do I turn the ignition on, pull the pto switch on, and multimeter the plug going to the clutch? As I said, just want to make sure I'm testing that right. I haven't tried using a jumper wire on the clutch itself since the new harness, but the last time I did, the clutch engaged. I don't want to ruin this new harness, so I won't be cutting wires or anything. If I can't figure it out, what's the "best" way to jump the clutch directly to the battery (so I can at least mow temporarily)? Would a t-tap splice work?
Replaced wire harness
New battery
Cleaned all grounds/contacts
New pto switch
Tuned up engine (plugs, filters, etc)
I haven't tested the voltage going to the pto from the switch, yet. To make sure I'm doing that correctly, do I turn the ignition on, pull the pto switch on, and multimeter the plug going to the clutch? As I said, just want to make sure I'm testing that right. I haven't tried using a jumper wire on the clutch itself since the new harness, but the last time I did, the clutch engaged. I don't want to ruin this new harness, so I won't be cutting wires or anything. If I can't figure it out, what's the "best" way to jump the clutch directly to the battery (so I can at least mow temporarily)? Would a t-tap splice work?