Briggs motor swap / Charging system differences

[StarTech]

Just forget it, I not going to explain it any further as everything is already in place and simply needs one wire connected unless lighting is needed. Where the heck did you read that I suggesting installing relays? I have posted no such thing. The only added items was a SPST switch and wiring with terminals for lighting which the switch may not even be needed as I haven't seen the equipment wiring schematic. Actually connector wise he need only two connector housings, a short section of insulated wire, and three terminals.

As for that JD I referred to there is not single added switch or relay. All it takes is less than two feet of wire and handful terminals and it is wire in a way that original setup can be simply restored later. 30 minutes to do (Counting printing a copy of the circuit schematic, getting and putting the tools up, the parts from storage, and the disassembly / reassembly of the equipment. It takes a minimum of two days to get the ECU plus driving two 45 minutes trips.

Are really taking only 5 minutes to get the tools, disassemble, remove and replace the stator plus voltage regulator, torquing everything to specs as you reassemble, test the new install, and put your tools back up. You must seen as just a blur. Even Briggs allows 45 minutes to do it on the 310000 series. On your time scale you should be able to do 300 engines in one my 10 hr days. Personally I doubt it.

 

[keakar]

Are really taking only 5 minutes to get the tools, disassemble, remove and replace the stator plus voltage regulator, torquing everything to specs as you reassemble, test the new install, and put your tools back up. You must seen as just a blur. Even Briggs allows 45 minutes to do it on the 310000 series. On your time scale you should be able to do 300 engines in one my 10 hr days. Personally I doubt it.

once the mower is in my shop and i have my tools ready, yes its a 5 minute job to pull the cover, flywheel, replace the alternator ring, reassemble and start the engine. any decent mechanic can.

if it takes you 45 minutes to do that then you are one sorry mechanic and you should be working at the DMV at the speed you work lol.

 

[StarTech]

Well it does takes me a while to do the paperwork and other things so I QUIT. You can have all the galled blower housing screws. I mean it I QUIT. I am tired of being insulted. If I had the tools at the ready I also could it rather quickly. I hope you just charging the customer for 5 minutes instead of a minimum hourly rate.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Interesting.
I charge out work according to the prescribed rates for warranty work as being realtively new I am not the fastest mechanic in town.
When I add of the steps in the Stihl scheduled fee chart I have an alternator replacement comes in at 1 hour 13 minutes ( which would be for a Murray Viking ) including diagnosis time
Tecumseh allow 60 minutes for an alternator/stator replacement and they were not renown for being generous with warranty repair payments and that time does not include things like diagnosis or preparing the mower.
All the other scheduled service rate tables I have are for hand held tools so that is all I have to go by.

What I fail to see is how the amount of time taken to do the job makes any difference to VTRWILLIE fixing his mower.
He is a home owner & not an experienced technician so it will probably take him the better part of a whole day.
Heck I can take 10 minutes just to get that moungrel plug apart.
Off topic argueing between ourselves does no good for the forum, the readers or the parties argueing themselves.

 

[vtrwillie]

sorry for starting a shitstorm! Just looking on how to get the wiring hooked up correctly with hopes of using the regulator on the new motor.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Not your problem
The train can run off the rails from time to time.
The important thing is how is your mower ?

 

[vtrwillie]

true! Its running and cutting grass, albeit the charging system is not hooked up

 

[bertsmobile1]

If you can get through a days mow without running the battery flat then you can just charge the battery when you finish
If the connections are giving you grief then come back .
The instructions Star gave you will work quite fine.

 

[keakar]

true! Its running and cutting grass, albeit the charging system is not hooked up

well its a simple matter to put it back in original condition to charge the battery. if you dont you will ruin your battery in short order and those battery dont last very long if you dont keep draining them down.

all you need in an impact gun to remove the flywheel bolt or nut and a 1/4" nut driver and a few minutes of your time. the process is the same even though the engine style in the video is old version engines, this is what the alternator (skip to time stamp 3:00 to get past the silly comedy bits that start off all his videos)

also an added note about the wires, he mentioned they go behind the starter but on newer engines they dont, they have a bracket on the starter bolt that holds the wires on the outside edge of the starter bracket

 

[StarTech]

well its a simple matter to put it back in original condition to charge the battery. if you dont you will ruin your battery in short order and those battery dont last very long if you dont keep draining them down.

all you need in an impact gun to remove the flywheel bolt or nut and a 1/4" nut driver and a few minutes of your time. the process is the same even though the engine style in the video is old version engines, this is what the alternator (skip to time stamp 3:00 to get past the silly comedy bits that start off all his videos)

also an added note about the wires, he mentioned they go behind the starter but on newer engines they dont, they have a bracket on the starter bolt that holds the wires on the outside edge of the starter bracket

You might need to find out what engine he has along with the datecode so the correct info from the two APSIs on 21, 28, 31, 330000 series is given if required. Also there is a new torque spec if it is a 21, 28, 31, 330000 series.