Briggs broke rod

[sgkent]

anything is rebuildable, the issue is the cost of doing so. If it costs $300 in parts, $50 in shipping, and $450 in labor to rebuild an engine, is it feasible when a brand new engine can be obtained for $595?

Usually the benefit of rebuilding it is the labor one saves when they do it themself. However it they have problems after the rebuild then what have they achieved? Also if machine work was needed as part of the labor cost, one may still have some labor cost in rebuilding it so the savings may not be as great as one thinks they will get.

Another thing DIY need to realize is that shops who do the work, know what quality they put out and what their be-back rate is. They can factor that into their prices and day, but when a DIY is involved that shop may not want the machine work job due to the risk of be-back if the DIY makes a mistake, and the amount of their time that ultimately ends up in it when the DIY starts asking for free advice.

 

[Stryped]

anything is rebuildable, the issue is the cost of doing so. If it costs $300 in parts, $50 in shipping, and $450 in labor to rebuild an engine, is it feasible when a brand new engine can be obtained for $595?

Usually the benefit of rebuilding it is the labor one saves when they do it themself. However it they have problems after the rebuild then what have they achieved? Also if machine work was needed as part of the labor cost, one may still have some labor cost in rebuilding it so the savings may not be as great as one thinks they will get.

Another thing DIY need to realize is that shops who do the work, know what quality they put out and what their be-back rate is. They can factor that into their prices and day, but when a DIY is involved that shop may not want the machine work job due to the risk of be-back if the DIY makes a mistake, and the amount of their time that ultimately ends up in it when the DIY starts asking for free advice.

I can not get an engine for this for 595 bucks

 

[bertsmobile1]

well posting here is free
The engine repair manuals can be obtained for free
You can dismantle the engine, clean & measure all of the parts for free
Then you can upload the photos for free
Those who regularly repair these engines know what is worth fixing & what is not
We also know where to look for problems
So strip it down , clean & measure
Just remember that when it comes to running clearances , these are micrometer measurement, not verniers with digital read outs
So unless you have the gear to measure properly all you will be doing is tossing money down the drain..
And as Walt has already mentioned you have to check very carefully for other damage
I have rebuilt more than one engine in a hurry and missed things like a hairline crack in the cam shaft bearing casting , only to find it opened out enough to dissable the governor & the nice newly rebuilt engine blew itself apart within a single season .
From that day on every seizure or broken rod rebuild gets treated to a nice new sump .

Have you pulled the oil pump apart yet ?

As for fitting used parts there is no way I will think about it.
A complete used engine perhaps but used piston & rod absolutely no unless I had a very accurate knowledge of it's history.
A rebuild gasket kit is about the same as a new con rod so not worth the risk .

 

[Stryped]

A piston is 100 dollars and a rod not far from that. Rings are 40 bucks for one piston. I want to use all new parts but it adds up.

 

[Stryped]

What exactly is “reject size” compared to standard size?

 

[StarTech]

It how much the cylinder and other components are worn beyond a normal size. If the measurement is at or beyond the reject size then the next over or under size need to be used. If it is the cylinder then rigid honing to the next oversize is needed. Most Briggs engines now only have 0.020 inch over size piston and rings available along with standard size piston and rings..

When checking the cylinder it must be done at top middle and bottom of the stroke. And it is done twice at each level with one at 90 degrees of the first measurement of each level. What you are checking for overall wear, ovaling, and tapering cylinder. What I have seen on most Briggs v-twin verticals is that #2 cylinder tend to be the one that wears out first and is usually oval at the bottom of the stroke.

 

[Stryped]

It how much the cylinder and other components are worn beyond a normal size. If the measurement is at or beyond the reject size then the next over or under size need to be used. If it is the cylinder then rigid honing to the next oversize is needed. Most Briggs engines now only have 0.020 inch over size piston and rings available along with standard size piston and rings..

When checking the cylinder it must be done at top middle and bottom of the stroke. And it is done twice at each level with one at 90 degrees of the first measurement of each level. What you are checking for overall wear, ovaling, and tapering cylinder. What I have seen on most Briggs v-twin verticals is that #2 cylinder tend to be the one that wears out first and is usually oval at the bottom of the stroke.

Thanks so much! Just a couple of additional questions….
1. The cylinder with rod that did not break (cylinder 2) had 130 psi of compression, which I assume is good. Does this mean it is Lilly in spec? I know I have to check but how can an out of spec cylinder have excellent compression?
2. What is the camshaft spec again? When I measured the hole in the crankcase and sump that the cam rides in, it measured around .503 which does not seem right.

 

[Tinkerer200]

You DO NOT want the engine you sent me the link too!! That is an old engine, not a Vanguard at all a discontinued opposed twin and 21 hp is stretching it! Strongly suggest you look for a complete mower maybe with bad deck, front axle, transmission and salvage the engine after checking of course. An estate sale perhaps.

Walt Conner

 

[Stryped]

You DO NOT want the engine you sent me the link too!! That is an old engine, not a Vanguard at all a discontinued opposed twin and 21 hp is stretching it! Strongly suggest you look for a complete mower maybe with bad deck, front axle, transmission and salvage the engine after checking of course. An estate sale perhaps.

Walt Conner

You DO NOT want the engine you sent me the link too!! That is an old engine, not a Vanguard at all a discontinued opposed twin and 21 hp is stretching it! Strongly suggest you look for a complete mower maybe with bad deck, front axle, transmission and salvage the engine after checking of course. An estate sale perhaps.

Walt Conner

Would this be a decent engine and powerful enough for my 54 inch zero turn? https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/44N677-0037
I forgot to mention I have the choke o matic on my mower.

 

[bertsmobile1]

yes