Briggs and Stratton Stuck Exhaust Bolt

slomo

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MIG weld a nut on top of the broken stud. Remove with a simple socket and ratchet.

GENTLY rock the stud L and R and remove in SMALL stepped movements. Spray with PB if you like making a mess. Never seems to make it down inside the threads. Look at yours when you get it out. It will be bone dry.

slomo
 

StarTech

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There is an engineering workshop down the road with a water jet drill
$ 20 and job done in 5 minutes, all that is left is the spiral of thread of the old stud / bolt
Now if I had a lazy $ 30,000 ?
If we have em down here in the bannana republic they must be on every street corner in the USA .
We spent around 100 hours removing a broken head stud in an Inter 445, only to find the machine shop could have come out with their mobile kit and removed in for $ 90 in 15 minutes.
I wouldn't bet on it. Here nearly every automobile engine machine shop has closed up shop. Last one I knew of was over 100 miles away and I think they are closed now too.

I have a couple indexes of the HF twist drills. I consider them as consumables. I have a drill doctor 750x and good to go with the HF twist drills to be used and abused. I have some good left hand twist drills and some good regular twist drills i reserve for precision work with the drill press. I have to sharpen the HF twist drills before i use them so i don't get the 3 sided holes.
Have you gotten the LH guide for the Drill Doctor yet. I went ahead and one for my 750 here even through I have yet to get any LH bits.

The problem I had with the Lowe's bit was I couldn't even drill a hole the thickness of a bed rail (angle iron) without dull the bits.

Question through. Which style of point are you sharpening to and what angles to prevent the three sided starter holes. Here I usually sharpen and split the points on my bits to prevent walking and drill at around 300 rpm or less.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Don't have the left hand chuck. I only use the left hand bits on broken bolts i feel will twist out so they don't get abused. Most bits are sharpened at 118* but i use a little more aggressive relief angle than stock. I don't split the points if i am going to use it in the drill press. I have found most of the cheap asian drills have uneven flutes so you get the 3 sided holes. I have a bag of small drills a machinist gave me. Most of them are Cleveland brand. Night and day compared to the HF and box store stuff. If i want an oversized hole i just use a HF drill out of the box. They always drill slightly oversized holes. If the flutes are not exactly equal length you get the 3 sided holes.
 

OldDiyer

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I had a chain saw that I was getting to run and found that the muffler was loose so took out the first bolt but when I went to the second sure enough the bolt was very tight and I heard the dreaded snap. I was a bit lucky because there was a 1/4in still sticking up but even using a bit of heat didn't work to free it up. Thinking of how to get this done I remembered the the guys were I was working at used KANO AeroKroil for frozen parts so went to Ace and bought a can 10oz was around $ 15.00. Sprayed the bolt let it set for about an hour still tight hit it with a little heat resprayed and let it set over nite next day used a vice grip and rocked it back and forth and slowly it came loose and out it came. When I got the frozen piece out there was some of the oil in the bottom of the hole I was impressed and saved my butt. This stuff is expensive but it seems to really work well. I see the OP never got back so don't know if they ever got the bolt out or not.
 

css9343

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I had a chain saw that I was getting to run and found that the muffler was loose so took out the first bolt but when I went to the second sure enough the bolt was very tight and I heard the dreaded snap. I was a bit lucky because there was a 1/4in still sticking up but even using a bit of heat didn't work to free it up. Thinking of how to get this done I remembered the the guys were I was working at used KANO AeroKroil for frozen parts so went to Ace and bought a can 10oz was around $ 15.00. Sprayed the bolt let it set for about an hour still tight hit it with a little heat resprayed and let it set over nite next day used a vice grip and rocked it back and forth and slowly it came loose and out it came. When I got the frozen piece out there was some of the oil in the bottom of the hole I was impressed and saved my butt. This stuff is expensive but it seems to really work well. I see the OP never got back so don't know if they ever got the bolt out or not.
I haven't retrieved the bolt yet. I ground it flush with the exhaust metal because there was no material left to vice grip
 

slomo

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I haven't retrieved the bolt yet. I ground it flush with the exhaust metal because there was no material left to vice grip
Oh man, good luck with it now. Could of welded a nut on and removed it.

slomo
 
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upupandaway

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Anyone ever try one of these to knock loose a snapped exhaust bolt???

Cut a slot for the "screwdriver". Pounding it can knock the bolt loose???
 

Hammermechanicman

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I have one. Back when i had a Japanese bike it was a must for the JIS case screws. Used it a couple times on the big JIS screw on some Japanese car brake rotors. Be careful the cheap bits. Had one shatter and stick a piece in my arm once. All the cross slot fasteners on aisian vehicles are JIS not Phillips. Most cross slot headed bolts are also JIS and not Phillips. There is a difference
 

bertsmobile1

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Anyone ever try one of these to knock loose a snapped exhaust bolt???

Cut a slot for the "screwdriver". Pounding it can knock the bolt loose???
That will only work on grade 8 or higher bolts &/or bolts that are 5/16" or bigger in diameter as the bit will just shear the sides off the slot
Muffler bolts are one of the worst for corroding solid in the block .
 
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