Briggs 16hp 326437 Has me stumped

GravelyBrad

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Thank you for the links.


Well, first you probably need this: http://rich.homeunix.com/gravely/engines/briggs/16hp-single/01_270962SingleCylinderLHead.pdf (service manual)

If you pull the head, look for any burning/scorching around the valves, valve seats, head/cylinder mating surfaces/gasket, that the valves move properly, excessive valve/valve seat wear, etc..

Here's another manual that might interest you: http://rich.homeunix.com/gravely/engines/briggs/16hp-single/13_CE8069RepairmansHandbook19191981.pdf
 

reynoldston

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Dont know exactly what you mean 1/4 inch of spark but spark is blue color which i was told is good.

A spark tester you can adjust how far the spark will jump and you should have a good 1/4 inch or more. I have taken a old spark plug and open the gap up to a good 1/4 in. for a tester I when I didn't have a professional one to use. Laying a spark plug on a ground isn't a good test because it doesn't tell you if the coil is going bad.
 

GravelyBrad

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I did not know that thank you. I will check this.

So a coil going bad could cause it to run at low rpm but not high?

A spark tester you can adjust how far the spark will jump and you should have a good 1/4 inch or more. I have taken a old spark plug and open the gap up to a good 1/4 in. for a tester I when I didn't have a professional one to use. Laying a spark plug on a ground isn't a good test because it doesn't tell you if the coil is going bad.
 

GravelyBrad

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So, I finally figured it out. After talking to many people and reading a lot I kept going part by part checking everything until I got to the points. I opened the cover and it was coated in oil. I took the point thing and condenser out and cleaned them, sanded the point contacts, and reinstalled them setting the gap to .002 and low and behold it started right up and ran like a champ.

Took it right out and cut a acre of grass without a issue.

Thank you all for all the help.
 

Midniteoyl

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So, I finally figured it out. After talking to many people and reading a lot I kept going part by part checking everything until I got to the points. I opened the cover and it was coated in oil. I took the point thing and condenser out and cleaned them, sanded the point contacts, and reinstalled them setting the gap to .002 and low and behold it started right up and ran like a champ.

Took it right out and cut a acre of grass without a issue.

Thank you all for all the help.

Well jeez.. I guess we assumed (oops) that you had already checked the points..
 

GravelyBrad

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Well jeez.. I guess we assumed (oops) that you had already checked the points..


I apologize i thought i had made it clear what i had done and "thought i knew"

Here is a list of what i have done so far.
-Drained tank and made sure in tank screen is free and clean.
-Ran all new fuel lines and new fuel filter.
-installed a new fuel pump (runs off a vacuum)
-Cleaned and rebuilt carb (i am not a pro at this)
-Bought and installed new carb just in case i didnt rebuild properally
-new park plug (periodically recleaning new plug to make sure its not getting fouled from carbon)
-made sure governor is adjusted properly.
Tested compression (3 results ~120)

Here is what i (think) i know
Spark seems to be strong
compression seems to be good at 120
not a fuel delivery issue as when i try throttling up and its stuttering a small spray of starter fluid does not help.
If i try to throttle up very very slowly it will sometimes throttle all the way up but as soon as there is any kind of load (moving/ turn mower on) it goes right back to stuttering and whatnot.
 
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