Those who aren't "brand loyal" probably bought crap initially or didn't realize they've bought crap until it's too late. For some it's a progression based on what you can afford or unverified recommendations from others.
Brand loyalty?
- Thread starter Morgyn Isaac
- Start date
I look at longevity possibilities, the easy to work on machines seem to be the better built. Are parts available. A determination is hard to make. Cause, owners do not maintain their machines properly.
Well, Kawasaki and Honda engines, but running gear such as spindles, pulleys, and belt routing is much harder.
Country Clipper has been an excellent brand but is having trouble recovering from COVID. Exmark uses a lot of Chinese parts and engines. Bad Boy is up and coming seeming to do everything right.
When I had a lot - as in a couple of acres - to mow, I bought a used SATOH (Misubishi) tractor with a 60" finish mower on the back and a loader on the front. It was 25hp/4cyl gas, 3/2 trans and turf tires. $2000. Very fast - not as agile as a Z-turn, but so much more versatile. I sold it with the property. But I have a small diesel with loader now and only need a rider mower.
Anyway, a little off topic, but certainly an option for many people to consider.
Anyway, a little off topic, but certainly an option for many people to consider.
Smithsonite
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These days it's a fools game to be brand loyal. Everything has been on a race to the bottom the past 20+ years. You have to take what's good at that moment.
I owned an auto repair / small engine repair shop for 14 years. I've come to the conclusion that if you got ANYTHING good today - automotive, or outdoor power equipment - consider yourself lucky. You've got yourself a Wednesday product.
I had an '07 Silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3 that was built on a Friday ... Christmas Eve. By 100k miles the entire front end was brand new, along with the suspension, was on it's 15th brake job (most of them done under warranty due to a constant pulsation from FORTY miles ...), and half its driveline had been replaced (rear end @97k, and transmission @ 103k).
Never mind the incessant squeaks and rattles that started at 2k miles, the beer-can strong bodywork that rotted through at year 10 and dented if you sneezed too close, and the complex electronics with 300k miles of wiring to go with it that was a constant problem.
My rule of thumb with automotive stuff is to stick with anything built before 1995. Same with OPE, except there's some good stuff to be found all the way up to 2015 or so. You just have to look HARD for it.
I owned an auto repair / small engine repair shop for 14 years. I've come to the conclusion that if you got ANYTHING good today - automotive, or outdoor power equipment - consider yourself lucky. You've got yourself a Wednesday product.
I had an '07 Silverado 1500 4x4 with the 5.3 that was built on a Friday ... Christmas Eve. By 100k miles the entire front end was brand new, along with the suspension, was on it's 15th brake job (most of them done under warranty due to a constant pulsation from FORTY miles ...), and half its driveline had been replaced (rear end @97k, and transmission @ 103k).
Never mind the incessant squeaks and rattles that started at 2k miles, the beer-can strong bodywork that rotted through at year 10 and dented if you sneezed too close, and the complex electronics with 300k miles of wiring to go with it that was a constant problem.
My rule of thumb with automotive stuff is to stick with anything built before 1995. Same with OPE, except there's some good stuff to be found all the way up to 2015 or so. You just have to look HARD for it.
When i first laid eyes on ztr and decided to buy it was a 1992 Dixon 361ztr new for $3,500 while other manufacturers were selling their riders for less than a thousand i thought i got hood winked by a shifty salesman but just yesterday 32 yrs later i adjusted the transaxles put new blades on it and it's ready to mow. I haven't changed a single spindle bearing yet. Last year i thought one spindle bearing was going out so i bought a set for both spindles. When i started taking it apart for the task i found a chunk of about 1/2"x1/2" stick lodged in a spindle pulley under the belt I took it out and mower mowed fine and new cheap bearings are sitting on shelf. Last year i did change transaxle drive belt idler pulley for the first time. BTW i popped sealed bearing plastic cover off and loaded it up with grease then installed as grease is minimal in this new crap "looks like vaseline" and also greased original idler pulley on mower deck.The bearing seal covers back then were pressed on steel not plastic so i kinda distorted it getting it out but was able to reinstall it's not perfectly sealed possibly but it'll have to work. Sadly husqvarna bought Dixon for the patents and Dixon is now junk like the rest. I did the math on my investment of $3,500 over a 30 yr period and found myself well ahead money wise by this purchase I forget the numbers now. Hydro-gear is junk and last I looked $700 plus to replace just one.
Dixon created the ztr btw and i think he was probably paid handsomely to close his doors also probably threatened because lawn mower is big business and massive profits especially in repair parts side.
My hats off to Scag I've never owned one but i did have the opportunity to go over one that the briggs had caught fire i think dry grass was the culprit. It didn't have hydro-gear trannys it had actual hydraulic pumps at the wheel which are extremely durable about the size of one on a crane turntable.
For you consumers that generally maintain your own mower when you are changing a belt while it's down remove idler pulley pop the plastic bearing cover off with pocket knife,razor knife or when that's not available 1/8" flathead screwdriver and grease it while your there and as i mentioned above do same to new bearing pack both sides with bearing grease or press it through one side your choice. An idler pulley shouldn't spin freely if it does that means there's no resistance hence not much grease if any. A well lubed bearing will have resistance and should turn a round or so before it stops spinning if it spins 4-6 times it needs grease.
By the way if it wasn't for Dixon you'd still be riding a tractor style lawn mower. R.I.P. Dixon
Dixon created the ztr btw and i think he was probably paid handsomely to close his doors also probably threatened because lawn mower is big business and massive profits especially in repair parts side.
My hats off to Scag I've never owned one but i did have the opportunity to go over one that the briggs had caught fire i think dry grass was the culprit. It didn't have hydro-gear trannys it had actual hydraulic pumps at the wheel which are extremely durable about the size of one on a crane turntable.
For you consumers that generally maintain your own mower when you are changing a belt while it's down remove idler pulley pop the plastic bearing cover off with pocket knife,razor knife or when that's not available 1/8" flathead screwdriver and grease it while your there and as i mentioned above do same to new bearing pack both sides with bearing grease or press it through one side your choice. An idler pulley shouldn't spin freely if it does that means there's no resistance hence not much grease if any. A well lubed bearing will have resistance and should turn a round or so before it stops spinning if it spins 4-6 times it needs grease.
By the way if it wasn't for Dixon you'd still be riding a tractor style lawn mower. R.I.P. Dixon
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I inherited my dad's 782 Cub cadet. I will keep it running as long as I can!
1pep
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I bought a Yazoo 35 years ago, and use it every year. So I could say yes a brand snob. The lawn mower is the most abused machine on the market. Folks waste a ton of time, & money because of it, then blame the mower. I know one brand that absolutely is junk from once it was............ Briggs & Stratton
OIL .......... ACE hd does just fine, changing it every season is all that's required
OIL .......... ACE hd does just fine, changing it every season is all that's required
Craftsman Garage
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I am very brand loyal to craftsman. 2 craftsman riding mowers, 3 cordless drills, A recip saw, a cordless impact, 3/8 cordless ratchet and power inverter, several socket sets, a craftsman pressure washer, and some screwdrivers. Only reason I bought a McGraw 8 gallon air compressor was because it was $149.99