Botom Seal

[Fish]

The du bushing looks a bit like this one. It is tapped into place after the bearing area has been reamed and finished. The seal
area isn't touched that I recall.

 

[Fish]

The kit looks like this, the block and sump are used to line up the reamers, the seal lip is used to center the process.



But yes, the seal you will get would probably work, just check for a bunch of slop.

 

[cashman]

I'm hoping that the seal that I'm getting from Wise is the same as the old one. If it is then won't be any problems. On the RER Snapper, I have always found it easier to remove the engine to replace the bottom seal. It's gtting the drive plate off that is hard with engine mounted. Sometimes they will come right off, sometimes not. It's a lot easier for me to do it with the engine sitting on the workbench. I have replaced cracked sumps with used ones leaving the old seal in place. Before I install the sump, I clean up the shaft and put a strip of electrical tape over the keyway in the crankshaft to keep it from damaging the old seal.

 

[cashman]

Hey thanks to all you guys for the input and illustrations! I'll keep you posted!!!!

 

[DaveTN]

I think what Briggs recomends is reaming the plain bearing out and installing a brass or similar kind of bushing? The question is will the seal will be the same as the old one. Don't know at this point. That is why I have the backup plan to just replace the sump with a seal already in it if the new seal doesn't work. Thie leaking seal is a problem I'm sure some of you guys that like the old Snappers will experience at some point in time. I'll keep you all posted on what I discover. Thanks!!!

Why replace the bushing and ream it if you don't have to? Was there a lot of play in the crankshaft coming through the Oil Sump? If there was wear on the metal and causing movement side to side and that causing the seal to wear and leak...then I would probably put a bushing in it, ream it and pop a new crankshaft seal in it. (Don't forget to lube it on the inside part of the seal before you put the cleaned-up crankshaft through it or you might be putting another seal in!) But if a crank seal just suddenly let go because of being brittle, old age, heat, wear etc. On non-separated engines I'd just try to get the seal out by prying it out, careful not to scrach or scar the oil pan housing that holds the seal. On stubborn seals, I have had some luck by carefully drilling or punching in a small hole on the metal rim of the seal, then put a sheet metal screw in it (I usually file the sharp point flat first) and tighten it down. That will usually lift the seal enough to pull it on out. Might have to punch two holes on opposite sides in some tough removals. Otherwise you will have to remove the engine, drain the oil, flip it upside down and remove the oil pan. Knock it off and replace the seal by knocking it out from the inside while it's on two blocks of wood or whatever. Plus an oil sump pan gasket! Good Luck.

 

[Fish]

Why replace the bushing and ream it if you don't have to? Was there a lot of play in the crankshaft coming through the Oil Sump? If there was wear on the metal and causing movement side to side and that causing the seal to wear and leak...then I would probably put a bushing in it, ream it and pop a new crankshaft seal in it. (Don't forget to lube it on the inside part of the seal before you put the cleaned-up crankshaft through it or you might be putting another seal in!) But if a crank seal just suddenly let go because of being brittle, old age, heat, wear etc. On non-separated engines I'd just try to get the seal out by prying it out, careful not to scrach or scar the oil pan housing that holds the seal. On stubborn seals, I have had some luck by carefully drilling or punching in a small hole on the metal rim of the seal, then put a sheet metal screw in it (I usually file the sharp point flat first) and tighten it down. That will usually lift the seal enough to pull it on out. Might have to punch two holes on opposite sides in some tough removals. Otherwise you will have to remove the engine, drain the oil, flip it upside down and remove the oil pan. Knock it off and replace the seal by knocking it out from the inside while it's on two blocks of wood or whatever. Plus an oil sump pan gasket! Good Luck.

I don't believe that there is a du bearing originally on this sump, but they must have had a problem that the du kit was their cure.
Punching out and replacing an existing du bearing isn't that big of a deal.
Actually I really wasn't really suggesting what they should do, as I would go the cheapest, easiest route myself. I was just
outlining my experience with the du and the reaming kit, and what was involved.

 

[cashman]

UPS delivered the seal and bushing kit this past week. Had the seal and the bushing in the box. The seal was identical to the one that came out of it. Got the seal installed today. All is well! Got the grass cut! I didn't install the bushing. If I have any more problems with it I've got a buddy with a milling machine and I'll get him to ream the sump out and install the bushing. I actually took some pics of the install. Will try to upload the them soon. Thanks!!!

 

[Fish]

UPS delivered the seal and bushing kit this past week. Had the seal and the bushing in the box. The seal was identical to the one that came out of it. Got the seal installed today. All is well! Got the grass cut! I didn't install the bushing. If I have any more problems with it I've got a buddy with a milling machine and I'll get him to ream the sump out and install the bushing. I actually took some pics of the install. Will try to upload the them soon. Thanks!!!

Your repair will likely outlast most of us!!!! Good deal!!!

 

[cashman]

Here is the bushing and seal kit.



This is the mower. It started life as a 28113S. I changed the mower deck to a 30" that I removed from an old 30" mower that the engine was worn out on. I've had this mower for about 25 years. I still put the 28" deck on it when I want to bag leaves.



Here it is with the engine removed. The engine has to be removed to get the drive plate off.



Here you can see where the old seal had been leaking. On a front engine rider, you probably wouldn't notice the seal leaking unless it was dripping on the floor. But on the Snapper, the oil coats the drive disc and slipping results.



A sight for sore eyes! Got the drive plate off after some heat and a little TLC.



The new seal in place. Now to just put it all back together!



While I was in the mood and had all the tools out, I went ahead and lubricated the starter clutch.



Got the grass cut and I placed a piece of cardboard under the mower to see if any oil leaked over night. Didn't see any drips so far.

Thanks!!!