Best fuel stabilizer

lbrac

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I once stored 5 gallons of premixed 2 cycle oil in regular pump gasohol in a portable sealed plastic outboard fuel tank for 5 years without problems. I used it in my trimmer/chainsaw, etc. without issue. Long ago I read that 2 cycle oil will stabilize gasohol. A sealed container prevents moisture from being drawn in as the fuel expands and contracts with minor temperature changes. Sealed containers must have the pressure/vacuum relieved with significant changes in temperature to prevent damage to the container. High humidity air is worse when drawn into the tank and causes water to condense when it cools. Ethanol can absorb about 1/2% water before the alcohol/water mixture separates from the gas and settles to the bottom of the tank. This causes a number of problems and should be avoided. The alcohol that separates from the gasoline causes a lean mixture if the engine will run at all, and microbes can grow in the mixture, causing corrosion of metal and debris to form. Be sure the vacuum/pressure valve on the tank fuel cap is working properly, if utilized on your cap (like on a car). Close the manual vent on caps that have them when the mower is not in use. Monitor the sealed tank for excessive pressure/vacuum buildup with significant temperature changes, and vent the tank momentarily if needed, as with seasonal changes.

When I use an outboard motor, I disconnect the hose from the tank when I return from a trip and let the engine run until the carbs run dry, which kills the engine. With no fuel left to evaporate in the bowls and leave gum deposits, I've not had a problem w/ the carbs sitting over a number of years. If your mower has a manual fuel shut off valve, close it and run the carb dry before storing it. If it doesn't, add one, or I suppose if your mower has a solenoid fuel shutoff valve, you could disconnect the wire at the valve, or put a switch inline with the wire, to switch it off to run the carb dry. Ethanol is a good cleaner of gum and varnish deposits if it is suspended in the gas, as it should be.

Fuel de-icer contains alcohol, often methanol, and will absorb water if there is too much in the fuel tank. It takes only a few drops of water in a carb bowl to wreak havoc. Drain the bowl into a container if water is suspected, and look for water. If the fuel filter is transparent, look for water separation in the bottom of the filter.
 

bertsmobile1

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But what would be the best carb cleaner to put in your gas, even if its still a little varnishy after the ultrasonic cleaner?
As posted before
Petrol injector cleaner
Brand does not matter they are all basically the same
Stabilizers prevent the fuel going off through chemical reaction with the air, by evaporation and by reactions within the fuel itself
99.999% they are not necessary
Cleaners clean the varnish by using powerful solvents to redissolve the varnish & tar deposits so they mix in with the fuel & pass through the engine
Two totally different jobs best done with 2 totally different chemicals.
Like WD 40 which is nothing more than a water dispersant, stabilizers can have secondary actions in some cases but basically they are not solvents & dispersants .
 

SamB

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The things that determine which works best for you are so variable it is not funny
I really can not be bothered to type out 40 things which will determine if you need a sabilizer or not
In most cases they do nothing beneficial .
They don't do any harm either other than to lighten you wallet & increase the exhaust pollution.

As for cleaning out varnish deposits none will actually do that.
Injector cleaner is what you use and even then it is hit & miss at best
My workshop is 500 yards away from the landlords house, across the small paddock.
He is 30 foot higher than me
In high summer his fuel will go off in 2 weeks while mine will be fine for several months .
Same fuel from the same pump filled at the same time .
Friends of mine that actually make gasoline say winter gas is more likely to go bad over time than "summer blend" gasoline because it is more volatile to aid cold weather engine starting. 'Summer' gas will store better,BUT it's best to just NOT store any gasoline,just buy what you will be using soon. Run your OPE dry in the fall and buy fresh gas next spring. I'm only a half mile from an actual refinery .so my local gasoline is as fresh as it gets. I need to add, this refinery also supplies 100% gasoline-NO ethanol fuel added, to select stations in my area.
 

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mmofreno

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I know there's a big debate on this topic but wanted to know. What is the best Fuel stabilizer/ carb cleaner that you can dump in the gas tank? Something that actually works on cleaning varnish in the carb. I want to use it for lawn mowers and other small things. I heard Stabil, Seafoam, Mechanic in a bottle, etc. Wanting to know your opinion.
My shop is in Reno at 4500' and we have CA gas. The ethanol is limited to 10% but the problem is, fuel stabilizers work on petroleum based products. We have seen an inability of ANY of the fuel stabilizers to perform as they once did here in the Reno/Tahoe area. Ethanol is hygroscopic meaning it sucks water out of the atmospheric environment of the fuel tanks an holds it. Fuel additives work on fuel, not solvents such as ethanol and water. We have gone to canned fuels on any non use condition over 45 days. BLM, USFS, NDF and CDF have all proven the efficacy of such over the past 3 years.
 
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