Best for hills?

[2muchgrass2mow]

I think I have decided on the x350. It will be more versatile as far as doing other things too. Another question I have is about deck size. 42 vs 48. Which would be better for uneven terrain, and would a larger deck help with balancing the machine. I have a little over an acre to cut, about 1/3 of it is on a slope.

I am in almost an identical situation. Everything I have read, and my own common sense told me that a ZT is not the machine for steep slopes. Hardly any weight in the front - which creates problems going both up hills and mowing across them. Dangerous! I had a Husky YT42 DXLS lawn tractor with an auto locking tranny that did a good job, but it eventually failed for reasons I won't bore you with.
After some research and thinking about it (I never even considered a ZT), I bought a JD X370 and added 2- 45 lb. weights on the rear. Those and my 160 lb. body weight get the job done - BUT I STILL AM VERY CAREFUL, ESPECIALLY MOWING ACROSS!! I also disabled the ridiculous button gizmo they put on there to mow in reverse. On hills, when a quick forward to reverse is essential, you don't want to be impeded with that. Again, unsafe. That control is just generally a pain, and IMO is only utile if you have a bunch of kids or dogs running around. I would never disable the seat switch though!
Finally, the 370 comes standard with hydraulic power steering and deck lift. for a guy like me with severe arthritis in both hands/wrists/fingers it was a lifesaver! Steers like my Lincoln MKZ . . . It will cost between 5-6K, and uses a bit more gas than the Husky did, but it is the absolute finest lawn tractor I've ever owned - and at 73 I've owned quite a few. But bottom line, I would steer you away from ZT's. I'm sure they are wonderful machines, and full disclosure I have never owned one for the above reasons. And with a shoulder replacement and arthritis in the other shoulder too, it would be nearly impossible for me to hold my arms up that long to maneuver it. If you are thinking of a 350, spend the extra $ and go with the X370. You won't be sorry!
PS - while a bigger deck might (I don't know) provide more stability, a 42" will cut closer in those gullies and crannies, and is more maneuverable generally, and I can't get anything larger in my basement.

 

[Freddie21]

I agree with GearHead. I had a very heavy Deere 316 tractor which I hated to give up, but it would not handle the hills. If I went along the slope, I fell off the machine. Going up\down, it would go down great but spin the drive tire on the way up. I went with a Cub steering wheel ZT and I love it. 60 inch commercial. It will go down controlled and make it back up with no problems. I can travel with the hill, but prefer up\down. The steered front wheels keep it straight. The low COG and arm rests make you feel locked in. 2014 and basic maintenance. Original belts. I cut almost 4 acres.

 

[GrumpyCat]

Zero turns use castor wheels on the front. Unsteered. These can be problematic on hillsides no matter twin stick, joystick, or steering wheel.

A lawn tractor with steering wheel directly connected to front wheels is probably best. I’m not familiar with the lawn tractor market these days but haven’t seen the same quality of build in lawn tractors as competition has brought to the zero turns.

 

[GearHead36]

I am in almost an identical situation. Everything I have read, and my own common sense told me that a ZT is not the machine for steep slopes. Hardly any weight in the front - which creates problems going both up hills and mowing across them. Dangerous!

Unless you have a ZTR with a steering wheel, which performs better, and is less dangerous on hills and slopes than a lap-bar ZTR or a lawn tractor. A lawn tractor will have more weight on the front, but that weight is higher than a ZTR. A steering wheel ZTR is the best of both. Low CoG, and steerable front wheels that help hold on slopes.

Zero turns use castor wheels on the front. Unsteered. These can be problematic on hillsides no matter twin stick, joystick, or steering wheel.

A lawn tractor with steering wheel directly connected to front wheels is probably best. I’m not familiar with the lawn tractor market these days but haven’t seen the same quality of build in lawn tractors as competition has brought to the zero turns.

Then you must not be familiar with the steering wheel ZTRs from Cub Cadet. The front wheels are steered. This is what makes them better on hills and slopes. I'm no CC fanboy. For applications suitable to standard ZTRs and lawn tractors, I don't recommend CC. But for this application, CC owns the market. The one machine that might be better would be a stand-on ZT. I prefer riding, so I prefer what I have.

On my current property, which has slopes and hills, I've tried a lawn tractor, a lap bar ZTR, and my current steering wheel ZTR. Hands down, the steering wheel ZTR works best on the hills and slopes.

 

[Shady oak]

The small town I live in bought the CC steering wheel commercial unit and loves it. They had used snappers for years. Very stable on side hills.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Zero turns do not handle operating across a steep slope well at all. Not only inefficient potentially dangerous.

Steep slopes are best handled by 4 x 4 mowers - there are many to choose from:

BCR3626BVECE | 4WD Outback Rider

www.billygoat.com

ATEX AR950 4wd Slope Mower

This Japanese-made ATEX AR950 4wd Slope & Ride-on Mower is designed to work on hard-to-maneuver angles and terrains. Enjoy the ride while you easily mow grassed slopes!

www.tannertrack.com.au

All Terrain Mowers – 4WD, Ride On & Remote Control Mower

As Motor Australia supply all terrain, steep terrain, rough terrain mowers including: 4WD, ride on and remote control mowers. Contact us today, to discuss your requirements!

www.asmotor.com.au

https://www.deere.com.au/en/mowers/ride-on-mowers/x700-signature-series/x739-ride-on-mower/

Razorback - 4 wheel drive mowers

cooroyoutdoorpower.com.au

Kubota GR Series Diesel 4WD Ride On Lawn Mowers - Tasmac Tasmania

Kubota’s GR Series features four-wheel drive, diesel-powered, ride-on mowers that outperform and outlast their competitors.

www.tasmac.com.au

Brush Mowing

The Ventrac Tough Cut Mower deck has an industry leading design to tackle the toughest of brush mowing jobs. The tough cut's design features a front mounted deck, allowing you to cut the grass before the tires trample it down. Cut through tall brush, tough weeds or small saplings and mow places...

www.ventrac.com

https://mowersupastore.com.au/product/mowers/ride-on-mowers/masport-crossjet-4wd-mower/

 

[GearHead36]

Zero turns do not handle operating across a steep slope well at all. Not only inefficient potentially dangerous.

Steep slopes are best handled by 4 x 4 mowers - there are many to choose from:

And they're all quite expensive compared to the CC steering wheel ZTRs, at least the residential versions. The commercial CCs are similarly priced to those you linked to.

Not sure about the others, but the Kubota GR has only one transmission, so the differential is open. It may have a diff lock feature, but if so, that does more damage to turf than ZTRs. It's also a tractor configuration, which has a higher CoG than a ZTR. I would not recommend the Kubota GR, even the 4wd version, for hills & slopes.

 

[Skippydiesel]

"Not sure about the others, but the Kubota GR has only one transmission, so the differential is open. It may have a diff lock feature, but if so, that does more damage to turf than ZTRs. It's also a tractor configuration, which has a higher CoG than a ZTR. I would not recommend the Kubota GR, even the 4wd version, for hills & slopes."

I was not actually recommending any one type just the concept of 4x4 and showing it in several diffrent configurations.

I agree that tractor type configurations will have a higher centre of gravity. No matter what is chosen, there will be some shortcoming, so it's a matter of choosing what suits best for the operating conditions and the $$ available to purchase (cost/effect). Having worked in agriculture all of my life, operating conventional tractors from 35 hp to 500 hp, I know that they can handle most slopes BUT skill & experince may be required in more demanding terrain.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Some words on "tractors" ;
Ride on lawn mowers are for the most part NOT tractors, even if they look a little like a miniature version.
Tractors come in all shapes & sizes, are heavy duty (compared with ride on mowers), usually diesel, have 3 point linkage & tow bars.
Horticultural ones can be as small as 20 hp, agricultural don't usually go below 35 hp and can range to over 500 hp
Their steering can be by front wheels or articulated chassis. The Italian make some superb low profile hill tractors with equal sized wheels and articulated chassis.
Tractors operating in wet/fragile soils can also have tracks instead of wheels, to minimise ground pressure/soil compaction
Tractors typically have independent PTO (power take off) sometimes two speed. Have high/low range (sometimes much more) transmission. These days modern tractors may have hydrostatic transmission that are light years away from your lawn mowers version.
They usually have Diff lock (differential locking) on demand, for the rear wheels only. Diff locks are either manually or automatically disengaged to go round a corner - this will do no more damage "to turf" than a non diff machine and may do to less, due less wheel slip.
Most tractors will have selectable split brakes ie able to operate left/right brakes independently to assist in turning.
Many tractors have adjustable front/rear wheel track ie the wheels can be moved out from the chassis
Tractors are not vehicles, they are a mobile power source for a non powered machine. The engines have a governor that will attempt to maintain a set rpm no matter the load. You do not drive a tractor (thats for vehicles) you operate a tractor and its various attachments.
Most tractors will start off/move in every gear ie you don't change up/down like a vehicle - the operator selects the gear that suits the operation & start in that gear - this may also include the appropriate engine rpm.
I hope this clears up some of the misunderstandings

 

[GearHead36]

When I refer to "tractor configuration", I mean, engine up front, rear wheel drive, steerable front wheels, single transmission which may be geared or hydrostatic. I do NOT mean to infer that a Cub Cadet XT1 that you get at Home Depot is the same as a 100HP John Deere farm tractor.