battery overcharging

StarTech

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It so simple to do with the right parts. Even a brain dead DIYer can to it.

Briggs produces a voltage regulator for this conversion where it basically plug and play other than adding a ground wire.
1683713176996.png
PN 790292. Aftermarket version is about $30 on Amazon from DB electrical. It convert the 3 amp max output to a 5 amp max system but the OP still need to verify that the diode and stator are still good. No current wires will need to hatched and jury rigged.

Now the voltage regulator is the 794360 which available in after market for around $15 if you what to do a hatchet job. It is the OP choice to use the correct part or risk screwing up. Yes the correct is twice the money but you don't anything other the screw and ground lead plus it is professionally done.

Now I can use the 794360 here but it is because I have the correct terminals and housing on hand to make it the 790292 version. Plus I have the proper crimping tool.
 
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bertsmobile1

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It so simple to do with the right parts. Even a brain dead DIYer can to it.

Briggs produces a voltage regulator for this conversion where it basically plug and play other than adding a ground wire.
View attachment 64381
PN 790292. Aftermarket version is about $30 on Amazon from DB electrical. It convert the 3 amp max output to a 5 amp max system but the OP still need to verify that the diode and stator are still good. No current wires will need to hatched and jury rigged.

Now the voltage regulator is the 794360 which available in after market for around $15 if you what to do a hatchet job. It is the OP choice to use the correct part or risk screwing up. Yes the correct is twice the money but you don't anything other the screw and ground lead plus it is professionally done.

Now I can use the 794360 here but it is because I have the correct terminals and housing on hand to make it the 790292 version. Plus I have the proper crimping tool.
Thanks for that
never knew that existed but now I do I will get some of them
Always like it when I learn some thing I did not know
 

StarTech

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Bert, That just proves you are still alive. Here I have the Amp terminals and housings as I repair the damage harnesses. The last one was dog chewed up.
 

2ball

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It so simple to do with the right parts. Even a brain dead DIYer can to it.

Briggs produces a voltage regulator for this conversion where it basically plug and play other than adding a ground wire.
View attachment 64381
PN 790292. Aftermarket version is about $30 on Amazon from DB electrical. It convert the 3 amp max output to a 5 amp max system but the OP still need to verify that the diode and stator are still good. No current wires will need to hatched and jury rigged.

Now the voltage regulator is the 794360 which available in after market for around $15 if you what to do a hatchet job. It is the OP choice to use the correct part or risk screwing up. Yes the correct is twice the money but you don't anything other the screw and ground lead plus it is professionally done.

Now I can use the 794360 here but it is because I have the correct terminals and housing on hand to make it the 790292 version. Plus I have the proper crimping tool.
Thanks for this info.
I am not sure how to test the diode and stator, but I did put a multimeter on the battery when it was running and I got 15.9 dc volts and when I switched the Multimeter to ACV I got 33.

I don't understand the duel charging stuff, but it seems like 33ACV going to the battery is bad?
 

StarTech

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Looks like the next I get a dual stator I going have do what Briggs should done for us. That is get some life voltage measurements.

I know some Ac will be there since it is a half wave rectified circuit but honestly I had done any measurements other than DC voltage and current draw tests. It is something I should have done by now. Sorry I will need to create some updated info for all of us when I get in a dual stator.
 

sessman55

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Replace the regulator. Two bolts and an electrical connection.
 

vap0rtranz

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Found a decent vid to share for those of us who need visuals. (Too many words in this thread :)

This guy is troubleshooting a no-charge not an overcharge but he's got an Intek with dual circuit.

It's a nice walk through of how B&S setup the electrical system on these, and where to test.

 

bertsmobile1

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Thanks for this info.
I am not sure how to test the diode and stator, but I did put a multimeter on the battery when it was running and I got 15.9 dc volts and when I switched the Multimeter to ACV I got 33.

I don't understand the duel charging stuff, but it seems like 33ACV going to the battery is bad?
Yes AC at the battery is bad and shows that the diode in the wiring loom near the plug is faulty.
Think of a diode as a one way valve
And the easy way to test it is with the OHM setting of your multimeter
You test it front to back & back to front
On your set up it requires you to pierce the insulation on the stator side of your plug
The best way to do that is to poke a pin through the wire so it is treminal to pin then pin to termnal
One way should show continuity and the other should show open circuit if it is good ( ish )
FWIW, the duel circuit is just what it says it is
The stator has 2 totally seperate sets of windings wound around the same core
They both produce AC but one of them has a diode to make pulsed , DC for recharging the battery and the other is plain AC for powering the lights
 
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