I finally got some time to do some of the tests that Bert suggested. I connected and disconnected the battery terminals and I got no spark. I jacked up and put the lawn mower on jack stands. I unplugged and plugged back in (numerous times ) all plugs and switches. I got no flashes or sparks. I checked any clusters of wires for any obvious bare wires, I seen none. Disconnected (2) ground wires (black) underneath the mower. These wires were connected to a bolt. Removed wires from the bolt and cleaned up the wires and metal that they were connected too. Wires looked a little dirty where they would connect to the frame. Before I continued with the other tests Bert suggested, I did the test I did earlier in this post. Disconnected the ground ( negative) cable from the battery and hooked up the multimeter red probe to the black cable and the multimeter black probe to the negative terminal on the battery. I got a reading of 0.002 milliamps. This test was done with the dashboard display connected. When I did this test before I was getting the reading of 3.2 amps. Could the cleaning of the ground wires have fixed the problem ? Or could I have just moved a bare wire that was touching the frame grounding out ?
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Battery draining on my Simplicity Conquest
- Thread starter juice581
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Lawn Pro
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Absolutely yes to both questions. Suggestion, do not use water near engine or anything electrical, use a leaf blower. Water will shorten life of electrical components.
https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=2690600
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...nemanuals.html?searchrequested=386777-0111-e1
posted information above for your tractor
https://www.simplicitymfg.com/eu/en_gb/search.html?searchrequested=2690600
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...nemanuals.html?searchrequested=386777-0111-e1
posted information above for your tractor
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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cleaning the ground contact is a good idea.
I pant over them , and any other place where dissimilar metals are in contact to prevent galvanic corrosion with liquid electrical tape which works a lot better than grease.
Some dust is insulating and some is conductive however with the ignition off there should be no power anywhere other than from the battery to the starting solenoid and then on to the B terminal on the ignition switch.
Now the B terminal is directly above the A terminal which goes to the alternator and if there was a phantom connection between these and the rectifier has an open circuit fault then you could have been pulling 3 Amps
The only other thing that could be pulling that sort of power without self destructing, melting or bursting into flames is the starter is the starter and the only way for that to happen is a short inside the solenoid or a short across the two solenoid wires.
Back testing the iginiton switch will reveal shorts between the B & A terminals as would testing between the purple wire on the rectifier & ground.
Testing between the starter power wire and ground will reveal a short in / on the starter solenoid.
I pant over them , and any other place where dissimilar metals are in contact to prevent galvanic corrosion with liquid electrical tape which works a lot better than grease.
Some dust is insulating and some is conductive however with the ignition off there should be no power anywhere other than from the battery to the starting solenoid and then on to the B terminal on the ignition switch.
Now the B terminal is directly above the A terminal which goes to the alternator and if there was a phantom connection between these and the rectifier has an open circuit fault then you could have been pulling 3 Amps
The only other thing that could be pulling that sort of power without self destructing, melting or bursting into flames is the starter is the starter and the only way for that to happen is a short inside the solenoid or a short across the two solenoid wires.
Back testing the iginiton switch will reveal shorts between the B & A terminals as would testing between the purple wire on the rectifier & ground.
Testing between the starter power wire and ground will reveal a short in / on the starter solenoid.
Juice, Ground connection corrosion results in "opens" in the jargon. This is the problem road assistance guys see a lot. Instead of a free path for the electrons to take thru the frame , for instance, they see no connection due to high resistance. Perhaps your reading was the same 20 milliamps you got before. I have not worked on the charging systems on these tracrtors, but seems like some components are accessible and visible. Diodes can be checked with the multimeter, but it takes time. They should only pass current in one direction. You use diode fumction or "beep" setting and probe the component ends and then switch. Beep only allowed in one direction. I am sure the guys will chime in here as it is tedious, and the rectifier may be "potted" with plastic so you can not get at the individual components.
Somewhere there is a "design" schematic with so called "nodes" where one component joins another to form a circuit. The design engineer has specified the expected value
(voltage) a mulitimeter probe should show (that point to ground). If that value is not seen there is a problem and usually a component has failed. For instance I have seen a section in the Inek manual which gives such an approach. Because electrical problems seem so difficult there is lots of shotgunning new parst that are not needed. I hope the pros will chime in again on your problem. You are showing the required patience.:thumbsup:
...
Somewhere there is a "design" schematic with so called "nodes" where one component joins another to form a circuit. The design engineer has specified the expected value
(voltage) a mulitimeter probe should show (that point to ground). If that value is not seen there is a problem and usually a component has failed. For instance I have seen a section in the Inek manual which gives such an approach. Because electrical problems seem so difficult there is lots of shotgunning new parst that are not needed. I hope the pros will chime in again on your problem. You are showing the required patience.:thumbsup:
...
So I checked for power on the ignition this afternoon. I have the 12 volts going from the battery to the solenoid and then 12 volts to the B terminal on the ignition switch. I got no other reading from any of the other terminals on the ignition switch. I disconnected the red wire that goes to the red wire on the RR. In the off position I have no reading. When I turn the key to the run position, I have 12 volts going to the red wire that connects to to the red wire on the RR. Everything there seems good also. I will keep monitoring the battery for any drain over the next week or so. Thanks for everyone's help.