B&S starter bolt puzzle

[Scrubcadet10]

Okay, gotcha.
I don't think Briggs marks the blocks.
You might can take some pictures of it, and send them to briggs along with what's happening, and they might can point you in The Right direction

 

[Sean2202]

Okay, gotcha.
I don't think Briggs marks the blocks.
You might can take some pictures of it, and send them to briggs along with what's happening, and they might can point you in The Right direction

Thanks for the info, The only numbers I found on the block were 5DBS-002 and this was on the block under the crank on the side with the ring gear.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Note there are two different starters used on these engines
The one with the cast end uses long bolts & the one with the steel end uses short bolts.
Get a magnet & pop it in the holes
To me it looks like there is a broken off bolt down at least one.
Starter bolt s are usually around the 2" mark because there is a lot of torque on the starter.

If that was in my shop, it would be off to a specialist brolen bolt removing workshop with an electro errosion machine to have the broken off piece removed
Down here they sting you $ 90 each, but it is actually a lot cheaper than trying to cut one out, breaking 3 drills and 2 eazy outs.
The depth that screw driver is in will not be sufficient to hold a starter.

 

[Sean2202]

Great idea on the magnet!. Yes a concern of mine is there is not enough meat to hold this starter in place. Which seemed to be an ongoing issue for this engine according to the owner. Problems arise when others have been into things multiple times and switched stuff.

I know there is a starter with a plastic gear drive that matches with an aluminum ring gear and a starter with a steel gear drive that matches with the aluminum ring gear for B&S V-twins. Not sure which one this engine / block is supposed to have.

Interesting info on the length of bolts for both starters. I have some old ones sitting around and the one with the plastic drive gear has the cast end and the starter with the steel drive gear has the steel mounting flange.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The bolts used to hold the starters in does not change with the type of drive gear.
The drive gears are mostly interchangable so you just swap over a plastic one for an alloy one.
Only thing to be careful with is the pitch on the teeth there are 2 pitches and the starter will jamb if the flywheel pitch & the starter pitch are not matched.

 

[Sean2202]

Thanks for all your help and advise,

In a best case scenario I should have sent this out to see if a bolt was broken off deep in the hole and have it professionally removed. With the hours on this engine and being that I have another good running spare if needed I decided to just drill it out and helicoil the threads. I purchased 2 new B&S starter bolts 692062 (these did not have torx holes on the head) along with a B&S starter 691564

I measured the bolts and the depths of the screw and ended cutting the lower bolt about 1/8. I added lockwashers so hopefully it will not loosen. I marked the bolt locations to also see if they loosen. Ran the starter a few times and it seems to be good.

I will also be purchasing one of those B&S swivel sockets for the top bolt for ease of use next time. If anyone has a part number or a reference online that would be great. I believe by not using the swivel socket that is how this whole problem of stripped bolt holes in the block came about from the previous owner.

Sean

 

[Scrubcadet10]

The B&S socket looks like 1 regular U joint socket over priced.
Look into these, https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/universal-joint-socket

 

[Scrubcadet10]

Or depending on where the bolt is, use an open end wrench, you'll need patience, but it can be done

 

[ILENGINE]

The B&S socket looks like 1 regular U joint socket over priced.
Look into these, https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/universal-joint-socket

If I remember correctly it is a Snap-on branded 13 mm 1/4 inch drive universal joint socket.

 

[bertsmobile1]

There is no reason not to fit an standard allen bolt to the front hole.
The allan bolt will be a lot cheaper than buying a special tool and also makes it easy to replace as the bolt as it will happily sit on the end of a key where as with the uni joint the bolt has to be started by hand.
It always amazed me that Briggs persisted with the plain head bolt then finally got a torx slot stamped into it when they could have shifted to Allan bolts