Mowerman247
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The model is 31p977?and type is 0575 E1 and code is 070216ZE
B&S Intek 20hp wont crank
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The model is 31p977?and type is 0575 E1 and code is 070216ZE
Mowerman247
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Also what kind of damage can happen with a dropped push rod
If it only is moving slightly it’s not moving enough. The piston should move with the flywheel...a half a turn is a full stroke either up or down. If it’s moving “slightly “ then the connecting rod in no long connected to the piston.
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yep, taking the spark plug out and putting a screwdriver or dowel of some sort in the hole until you hit the piston then turning the flywheel, with what little it moves, that screwdriver should move.
bertsmobile1
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IT has now been 9 hours since you first posted and all you have done to help us help you is stick a screwdriver down the plug hole and tell us it is a 31p engine
The rocker cover has 4 3/16 bolts holding it on and a rocker cover gasket so that works you to be about 5 minutes for you to remove it.
The oil drain is a single bolt and takes about 2 minutes to remove.
Normally it take longer to find where you left the oil drain pan than to remove the drain plug.
Doing both of these would have allowed productive use of both your and our time.
Everything else is just speculation, and speculation has never ever repaired anything.
A piston on a crankshaft moves from the top of the bore to the bottom then back to the top again for every rotation of the crank ( flywheel if you like ).
It does not move up and down at a constant rate, at the top & bottom of the stroke there is very little piston movement for every degree of rotation.
The rate of piston movement to crankcase rotation increases to a maximum at the 1/2 way point then decreases towards the ends.
So if, for instance your engine is jambed at the bottom of the stroke then the piston will only "move a little bit" when the flywheel is moved back & forth.
Thus you have provided us nothing of any use to help you other than identifing the engine as a single cylinder 31 series Briggs.
Now some find my line of responses arrogant and insulting .
If you would rather feel offended than have your mower diagnosed then carry on the way you are going.
In less than 1/2 hour you could have KNOWN what was wrong with your engine and what your options for getting the mower running again were.
If it came into my workshop it would just about be ready for you to take home again by now if not back on your lawn.
It is an engine, it can not bite you ( other than to take a chunk out of your wallet ).
Posters on this list are very patient and on more than one occasion have taken people who do not know which end of a screwdriver you hold through a complete engine rebuild.
No one comes here to abuse , belittle or humiliate others, that is what face-book is for.
All we want to do is help you get your mower back on your lawn but to do this you need to help us.
The rocker cover has 4 3/16 bolts holding it on and a rocker cover gasket so that works you to be about 5 minutes for you to remove it.
The oil drain is a single bolt and takes about 2 minutes to remove.
Normally it take longer to find where you left the oil drain pan than to remove the drain plug.
Doing both of these would have allowed productive use of both your and our time.
Everything else is just speculation, and speculation has never ever repaired anything.
A piston on a crankshaft moves from the top of the bore to the bottom then back to the top again for every rotation of the crank ( flywheel if you like ).
It does not move up and down at a constant rate, at the top & bottom of the stroke there is very little piston movement for every degree of rotation.
The rate of piston movement to crankcase rotation increases to a maximum at the 1/2 way point then decreases towards the ends.
So if, for instance your engine is jambed at the bottom of the stroke then the piston will only "move a little bit" when the flywheel is moved back & forth.
Thus you have provided us nothing of any use to help you other than identifing the engine as a single cylinder 31 series Briggs.
Now some find my line of responses arrogant and insulting .
If you would rather feel offended than have your mower diagnosed then carry on the way you are going.
In less than 1/2 hour you could have KNOWN what was wrong with your engine and what your options for getting the mower running again were.
If it came into my workshop it would just about be ready for you to take home again by now if not back on your lawn.
It is an engine, it can not bite you ( other than to take a chunk out of your wallet ).
Posters on this list are very patient and on more than one occasion have taken people who do not know which end of a screwdriver you hold through a complete engine rebuild.
No one comes here to abuse , belittle or humiliate others, that is what face-book is for.
All we want to do is help you get your mower back on your lawn but to do this you need to help us.
Mowerman247
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clean the debris away from it so you can see it better...
the hole is kind of out of focus in the picture
the hole is kind of out of focus in the picture
Mowerman247
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Will clean it when i get home
Mowerman247
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Here is the video of what the motor does and what it sounds like if you could please write back I would appreciate it. Thanks
bertsmobile1
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Looks like a loose bolt
But again it does not matter.
If there is a hole in the crankcase the engine has to come out.
Take the flywheel off before you pull the engine and drain the oil.
If it is nothing more than a bolt that has come loose then you might get out of it with a new conrod , a gasket set and some welding
Crankshafts are not particularly expensive so I would replace it as well because if nothing more, finding out the crank is bent after the engine is assembled is an "I pay for it" new gasket set.
It could also be a push rod that the crank hammered through the side of the crank case.
We don't know because for some strange reason you have steadfastly refused to remove the rocker cover to see if both the push rods are there
But again it does not matter.
If there is a hole in the crankcase the engine has to come out.
Take the flywheel off before you pull the engine and drain the oil.
If it is nothing more than a bolt that has come loose then you might get out of it with a new conrod , a gasket set and some welding
Crankshafts are not particularly expensive so I would replace it as well because if nothing more, finding out the crank is bent after the engine is assembled is an "I pay for it" new gasket set.
It could also be a push rod that the crank hammered through the side of the crank case.
We don't know because for some strange reason you have steadfastly refused to remove the rocker cover to see if both the push rods are there