B&S 303777 wont run after new rings

Good luck with the new carburetor. The results seem mixed for new imports. Some brands work right out of the box, and others become another problem area. Most(not all) will get the engine to start and run, which would be a good thing.
Be prepared for the float to be sticky when you first connect and allow fuel to flow. Sometimes the float valve may be sticky or leaky. Not saying it will be a problem, but be aware that some are in need of tweaking out of the box.
I did have one that would not even start a flathead B&S. I did not bother trying to fix it, but used the original instead, using the bad carb float bowl gasket which was what I needed.
tom
 
I got an aftermarket carb once that when I tried to start it, it was flooding clamped off the fuel line and it started once I released clamp it died. Flooding took the carb off and disassembled it; it did not have an inlet needle or a bowl gasket. They did make it good though.
 
Hello H.,

It was likely a prior return item that someone returned after they robbed the parts they needed. Some folks take advantage of free return policies.
 
Alright guys I just got the new carb on, it was raining all day Sunday and I was super busy yesterday but it runs really good now the idle is stable, I think I have to fine tune the carb and governor idle spring, I measured the temperature of the exhaust pipe while idling for about 5 mins and it went up to 415 about midway down the pipe, head fins were at like 200 maybe 220, the exhaust isn't smoking anymore or glowing, one thing is it doesn't wanna start without starter fluid even with the choke on
 
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Couple hints about checking the choke linkage operation.
If that is the type choke that full choke is at full throttle position of the throttle lever on the dash, check the throttle cable at the carb throttle plate to see if the cable is located correctly so as to get full choke at full throttle position on the dash. If the throttle cable position looks ok check the choke lever plate that pushes the choke to full open. Sometimes the metal lever that pushes on the choke ROD gets bent wrong direction (towards rear of engine) the carb will not ever reach full choke. (and it a bend adjustment for proper setting of the choke when the throttle cable is at correct position on the throttle plate.
Also if someone has cut off or shortened the throttle cable too much it will not have enough travel from idle to full open choke. You can check such by disconnecting the throttle cable and operating the throttle plate slider on the engine manually. You can usually feel a indent on the dash throttle lever as you go increase the lever at about 3/4 position so as to let you know you are going into the choke position at full lever travel.

You got lucky (rolling the dice) getting s smooth running replacement carb.
The Briggs gods are starting to come around and help you.

Is that a old snapper Rear Engine Rider rig?
 
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It's a Snapper lt160h42dbv2, engine is in the front I'm not sure why it's in the front snappers are always rear lol, but it's a separate choke thing so, throttle lever, and then choke push/pull knob, now that you mention it the choke rod is a little bit bent I will bend that back too, here is a pic of the top of the carb if you want to look at it, got it online for a better view but in the second pic I assume the top screw is the one I need to be adjusting, the Philips one seems for like a sealing screw than an adjustable screw
 

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You need to post complete model, type and code from the engine on that one. Not sure but it might be stamped into the top of one of the valve covers.

But you can leave the air filter breather assembly off and see if the choke is fully closing.

I looked at your tractor model number and I'm not familiar with that type twin engine. I was thinking it was a single cylinder just going by the engine model number ONLY you posted.
Since it's a new carb I would install a new in-line fuel filter
 
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wywy said:
Alright guys I just got the new carb on, it was raining all day Sunday and I was super busy yesterday but it runs really good now the idle is stable, I think I have to fine tune the carb and governor idle spring, I measured the temperature of the exhaust pipe while idling for about 5 mins and it went up to 415 about midway down the pipe, head fins were at like 200 maybe 220, the exhaust isn't smoking anymore or glowing, one thing is it doesn't wanna start without starter fluid even with the choke on.
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I have had times where an engine of mine won't start without starter fluid. It seems to go away after I use the machine for a while, just get everything flowing again. You could also look at your fuel pump, they commonly fail and sometimes pump very miserably instead of fully stopping.
 
wywy said:
Wow this post really took off, first sorry for not posting but I got the carb on friday night and was busy all day Saturday so I couldn't put it on, I will be doing that today I hope, RevB thank you very much for that advice, and well you geussed correctly i do have access to compressed air, I was going to do that but I thought I might as well just get a new carb it's been a very long time since I got one, Highlife thank you also for the support I appreciate that, Justin I was very skeptical on rings but I did the putting oil down the spark hole to see if it seal the rings better, yes it also could get to the valves and seal those but it turned out I was right about the rings, I think it was also valves, cleverlever I think you might be right loll, disallow thanks for that support too, zippin you are probably right I haven't changed out that fuel in about 3 months I will definitely put fresh fuel in, Rivets I'm not sure what your point is in basically saying I'm a stuck up annoying teenager, I do know how to read a dial bore gauge, i dont think i know how to, i do, but im not a 30 year experience mechanic so its a new tool i havent used before so i had to double check my measurements on it, I borrowed one from my school and my teacher showed me how to, I already knew the basic of how to read it but he just brushed me up on how to, yes I also remeasured after honing why wouldn't I? I did also follow the manual on YouTube because that was the only place I could find it, and it's starting to look like I didn't compromise any of the engine while reassmbly it was just the carb, I rebuilt this engine probably over 3 months ago so no I don't remember the exact measurements, I didn't write the measurements down because they were farrr under the limit, and also why would I work on your equipment? I'm not gonna work on some random persons equipment from them "helping me" with a mower I needed some advice for, you helped me a little bit making me recheck some stuff though so I appreciate that though, again everyone I realy appreciate the help I don't think I could've found this on my own yes its kinda dumb that it is probably just the carb but the carb was never an issue before and I never did anything with it so it just completely slipped my mind that it would've been bad, I will be putting that carb on today hopefully and I will let you guys know if it runs good I'm praying it does lol, again I don't know everything and i think i dont know as much as i should because if i did know as much as i should than i would not be here asking for advice, i messed up a diag that wouldve taken any of you like idk Delta Executor PC 10 mins to find out so yes i definitely don't know everything, I've made that pretty clear I think, but I hope this afternoon it'll run good and I will have learned to always check the carb on small engines lol
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Why would I work on your equipment?
 
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