B&S 303777 wont run after new rings

[grumpyunk]

Good luck with the new carburetor. The results seem mixed for new imports. Some brands work right out of the box, and others become another problem area. Most(not all) will get the engine to start and run, which would be a good thing.
Be prepared for the float to be sticky when you first connect and allow fuel to flow. Sometimes the float valve may be sticky or leaky. Not saying it will be a problem, but be aware that some are in need of tweaking out of the box.
I did have one that would not even start a flathead B&S. I did not bother trying to fix it, but used the original instead, using the bad carb float bowl gasket which was what I needed.
tom

 

[hlw49]

I got an aftermarket carb once that when I tried to start it, it was flooding clamped off the fuel line and it started once I released clamp it died. Flooding took the carb off and disassembled it; it did not have an inlet needle or a bowl gasket. They did make it good though.

 

[Auto Doc's]

Hello H.,

It was likely a prior return item that someone returned after they robbed the parts they needed. Some folks take advantage of free return policies.

 

[Forest#2]

Hello H.,

It was likely a prior return item that someone returned after they robbed the parts they needed. Some folks take advantage of free return policies.

Some folks take advantage of free return policies.

AND Santa is watching and knows who is naughty and who is nice other than skamazon and China.

 

[wywy]

Alright guys I just got the new carb on, it was raining all day Sunday and I was super busy yesterday but it runs really good now the idle is stable, I think I have to fine tune the carb and governor idle spring, I measured the temperature of the exhaust pipe while idling for about 5 mins and it went up to 415 about midway down the pipe, head fins were at like 200 maybe 220, the exhaust isn't smoking anymore or glowing, one thing is it doesn't wanna start without starter fluid even with the choke on

 

[Forest#2]

Couple hints about checking the choke linkage operation.
If that is the type choke that full choke is at full throttle position of the throttle lever on the dash, check the throttle cable at the carb throttle plate to see if the cable is located correctly so as to get full choke at full throttle position on the dash. If the throttle cable position looks ok check the choke lever plate that pushes the choke to full open. Sometimes the metal lever that pushes on the choke ROD gets bent wrong direction (towards rear of engine) the carb will not ever reach full choke. (and it a bend adjustment for proper setting of the choke when the throttle cable is at correct position on the throttle plate.
Also if someone has cut off or shortened the throttle cable too much it will not have enough travel from idle to full open choke. You can check such by disconnecting the throttle cable and operating the throttle plate slider on the engine manually. You can usually feel a indent on the dash throttle lever as you go increase the lever at about 3/4 position so as to let you know you are going into the choke position at full lever travel.

You got lucky (rolling the dice) getting s smooth running replacement carb.
The Briggs gods are starting to come around and help you.

Is that a old snapper Rear Engine Rider rig?

 

[wywy]

It's a Snapper lt160h42dbv2, engine is in the front I'm not sure why it's in the front snappers are always rear lol, but it's a separate choke thing so, throttle lever, and then choke push/pull knob, now that you mention it the choke rod is a little bit bent I will bend that back too, here is a pic of the top of the carb if you want to look at it, got it online for a better view but in the second pic I assume the top screw is the one I need to be adjusting, the Philips one seems for like a sealing screw than an adjustable screw