Arrgh, broke bolt removing brakes.

[Elkins45]

Something else that occurred to me is that the design could be improved. The front bolt is at least an inch longer than it needs to be because it has to go through a spacer so the return spring has something to hook onto. You could remove the spacer and spring and use a shorter bolt, which would be less likely to shear.

The positive return for the brake lever could be accomplished by using the clutch/brake spring. Slide a piece of tubing of appropriate length over the brake rod behind the lever and it would force the lever forward when the clutch spring pulls on the rod.

 

[Forest#2]

Correct about the longer one in the front and is usually the one that twists off.

Lots of places on them machines that 5 cents of antiseize FROM THE FACTORY would really help us do it yourselfers, just to mention few places, the engine output shaft, the rear axles shafts, the brake puck studs.

The price of them brake pucks are also out of sight.
In my spare time as a winter project I've started making spare lawn tractor brake pucks after I seen the inflated prices for such. I take the automotive disc brake pads that are worn down past serviceable life on a auto, put them in a vise and take a oxy/acety torch and heat the metal backing until the glued on pad falls off and then cut/grind the disc brake pad to the same size as the pucks,
using a new puck as a reference.
I also custom make some blade brake pads which are also pricy.

 

[StarTech]

Anti-seize would definitely all of us in some places or at least a thread sealant.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Something else that occurred to me is that the design could be improved. The front bolt is at least an inch longer than it needs to be because it has to go through a spacer so the return spring has something to hook onto. You could remove the spacer and spring and use a shorter bolt, which would be less likely to shear.

The positive return for the brake lever could be accomplished by using the clutch/brake spring. Slide a piece of tubing of appropriate length over the brake rod behind the lever and it would force the lever forward when the clutch spring pulls on the rod.

or replace the bolts with studs
makes the reassembly a lot easier and removes the gauling problem

 

[StarTech]

First you got to the old screws out without breaking them or as in this case have to drill out and put in a Helicoil or other thread repair device.

Here it is the problem of finding the studs of the right length or even the materials to make custom studs. Making custom studs is usually beyond most DIYers. But they could use all thread rods cut to length.

Of course the DIYer can get lucky sometimes and find a commercially made stud the right length. McMaster-Carr carry studs but are limited in the selection they have.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Here it is the problem of finding the studs of the right length or even the materials to make custom studs. Making custom studs is usually beyond most DIYers. But they could use all thread rods cut to length.

I have tried the all thread to make studs but found it too soft for most things. If I want to make studs I cut the heads off grade 5 bolts.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yep
A cut thread bolt ( most stainless Steels ones ) , remove the head & thread it
Even a cheap Scamazon / Evilpay tap & die set will do the job is done slow with enough lube .
I use a lot of studs BSW <> CEI or UNC <> CEI and make them exactly like this
Very easy to do

 

[StarTech]

Question here. How do you keep the dies straight? I have tried free hand threading things like this and always end up off threading them. I figure I am going to need a threading lathe to this because I am so bad at free hand. Would tapering the end help?

And mentioning cheap dies and taps. I will never buy another set from HFT as they were pure junk. Cutting teeth missing and slag in the dies. Currently I buying my replacement die and taps from McMaster-Carr.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I am pretty good at free handling starting taps and dies. Sometimes I will take the belt off the drill press and chuck up the tap and put the piece in a machinist vise and twist it by hand to get it started.
Lots of hex dies suck for getting started. I prefer adjustable round dies. Usually have a better taper for starting. Grinding the end of the shaft to act as a starting pin in the die works pretty well too. Some hex dies are actually thread chasers and really suck at trying to start on an unthreaded shaft. I also cringe everytime I see someone on YouTube chuck a tap in a power drill.

 

[StarTech]

Taps I have no problem with, it the dies. But while I sitting here you did me an idea but I will need to get a cross vise for the drill press. OF course do the threading un-powered as even at my drill press slowest speed it is way too fast for threading; although, I might try a variable motor speed controller for brush-less motor. I am not not a fan of pain.

I usually buy tap in sets of three. Taper, regular through hole, and bottom. Start the threading with the taper and finish up with one or both of the others.

I might buy one of adjustable dies to see how works for me here but it probably require me to buy holder too. But those have to wait a while as Insurance, taxes, and new uniforms are currently got my budget very very tight.

A $200 surprise shipping charge didn't help. When I call about the charges the rep said it was probably $40-$60 so I gave my customer his senior discount. Now I in the hole $80 on the sale. Now I can't trust the vendor to tell me the truth about shipping charges. I still can't figure why they shipped LTL when the package only weighted 46 lbs which is UPS-able.