Arrgh, broke bolt removing brakes.

StarTech

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He will still have problems later as steel will rust. It is about all he can do to effect a repair though. Sometime it is necessary to do this. Stainless steel is about the only thing that not corrode in damp environments.

In this case it depends how meat is available as to which type of insert he can try. Heli coils takes up the least metal on resizing. Now of course there are other types thread repair inserts out there too. Hopeful he can stay centered up and square.

If has sheared off an extractor in the hole it will take a carbide drill bit the cut it out as they are that hard and he has to be careful as not to go too deep and penetrate the casing. This is when a drill bit depth stop (limiter) is useful. This has happen to me several times so learned to just drill out the screws with carbide bits as many are grade 8 and are heat harden further.
 

Elkins45

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He will still have problems later as steel will rust. It is about all he can do to effect a repair though. Sometime it is necessary to do this. Stainless steel is about the only thing that not corrode in damp environments.

In this case it depends how meat is available as to which type of insert he can try. Heli coils takes up the least metal on resizing. Now of course there are other types thread repair inserts out there too. Hopeful he can stay centered up and square.

If has sheared off an extractor in the hole it will take a carbide drill bit the cut it out as they are that hard and he has to be careful as not to go too deep and penetrate the casing. This is when a drill bit depth stop (limiter) is useful. This has happen to me several times so learned to just drill out the screws with carbide bits as many are grade 8 and are heat harden further.
There isn’t an extractor in the hole, just a tiny bit of the old screw. The clearance bit for the insert should remove it completely.
 

StarTech

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There isn’t an extractor in the hole, just a tiny bit of the old screw. The clearance bit for the insert should remove it completely.
Then you got lucky in that sense. IF it was me would had been the other way.
 

Elkins45

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Then you got lucky in that sense. IF it was me would had been the other way.
I’m a little worried about how deep I will need to drill to install the insert, but I‘m hopeful than even if I break through the case the insert will fully seal the hole. That’s one reason I decided on an insert rather than a Heli-coil.
 

Forest#2

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Maybe compare the depth of the other hole and also use a drill stop.

I think maybe I seen about 1 1/2 inches of threads on the one I was able to wiggle out.
Most likely 3/4 inch of good solid threads would be good. Just has to overcome the push force of the brake pucks when the brake is applied forcefully.
If it happen to drill into the oil might be possible to find a short allen screw and use in the bottom of the hole after tapping. I think mine was maybe 1/4 inch diameter bolts and a standard thread of maybe 1/4-20. (no metric stuff involved and I found correct size bolt in my go to trays.

What was sad about mine is I tried not to twist either one off, lots of pecking on the heads of the bolts before trying to loosen, then using a 6 point sopcket and a 1/4 drive for a good feel. I was lucky that when it twisted off it left me a 3/16-1/4 stud to grasp onto with channel locks, but I had to be careful with the channel locks when they got a good bite.
Aggravates me when I twist off a bolt or strip threads coming out, knowing I tried not to going back and forth reversing especially when aluminum/steel studs.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Another broken bolt "misery" thread. This was a game changer tool for the shop. Screenshot_20231007-174848_Chrome.jpg
 

Elkins45

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Back in business!

Drilled and tapped:

IMG_6688.jpg

Insert installed:

IMG_6689.jpg

Reassembled and adjusted:

IMG_6690.jpg

I replaced the other bolt with a stainless one, but if I ever have to remove it again I'm just going to drill for an insert too.
 

Elkins45

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It occurs to me that a smart fella might make backing those bolts out and giving them a light coat of anti-seize a part of his annual maintenance routine.
 

StarTech

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Ahh I see you use a Timesert but at least there plenty area to do it as that a larger hole than a Heli coil. I just had install a couple 5/16 5/8 Heli coils on crankcase cover [oil pan] on a Briggs 49M. Torquing the screws to 27 ft-lbs when I had one to strip right at 27 ft-lbs and on the second install another one strip at 18 ft-lbs. Lost the crankcase gasket as I did trust it after the second installation.

Glad I buy them a couple years ago for another Briggs 31 series project.
 

Elkins45

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Ahh I see you use a Timesert but at least there plenty area to do it as that a larger hole than a Heli coil. I just had install a couple 5/16 5/8 Heli coils on crankcase cover [oil pan] on a Briggs 49M. Torquing the screws to 27 ft-lbs when I had one to strip right at 27 ft-lbs and on the second install another one strip at 18 ft-lbs. Lost the crankcase gasket as I did trust it after the second installation.

Glad I buy them a couple years ago for another Briggs 31 series project.
There’s a thin wall version that only requires a 3/8 hole but I thought there would be enough meat around the hole to use the larger one. I’m used to tapping steel so it was almost alarming how easy it was to tap the hole.

Imagine how much better it would be if the inserts were installed at the factory. But that would probably add $5 to the cost, and the accountants wouldn’t stand for that :(
 
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