Ariens Briggs & Stratton won't start.

D_H

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I need help. I have an Ariens 20 horse 46" riding mower from 2012. It's ran like a champ ever since I bought it new. Now, I started it up, pulled out of the garage and it died while I was driving it out of the garage and off the driveway and will not start back up.

Mower info:
Ariens: A20H46
Product: 93605300
Model: 96046002300
Engine: Briggs and Stratton Intek with XRD 540cc -> 331777-1372-B1

I have never done an oil change, fuel filter change, oil filter change on the mower. Over the time of ownership, I have periodically cleaned the mower; blown it off with compressed air, washed the outside of the mower, removed the deck several times, kept blades sharp. I have never washed the engine, just blown it off with air. I decided to give the mower a little needed (I thought) TLC and replace the spark plug, oil, oil filter, and fuel filter in February of 2021. At the time I could not find SAE30. The manual said that 5w30 synthetic would be just fine. I used that. When I changed the oil, I noticed the old oil was still amber color and still at the correct tolerance level. After I changed the oil, I then checked the oil every time I mowed. I noticed the oil was getting used a little about every other time I would mow. I also noticed that the oil was turning brown, then black. I would add 5w30 to bring the oil back into tolerance.

The gas tank has always been at least 1/4 full. There were a few times where I would mow my yard and the neighbors yard and I knew I would use all of the fuel so I would stop and check the level. When I got to a 1/4 tank, I would re-fuel. Otherwise the mower is always no less than 1/2 full. I always fill full when I mow.

The mower sits for about 2 1/2 to 3 months during the winter when the grass does not grow. I'm in Texas, so it's only cold here for about 2 days out of the year. I do not add stabil into the gas tank.

The mower ran perfect for the last 8 years until it died.

Things I've done since it died.
  • Put a new spark plug in it. [(Calls for Champion# RC12YC - obsolete) compatible NGK - BKR5E. 7938 is what I used.] I also found and bought Briggs & Stratton 5092 PN: 496018S.
  • Changed the oil and filter. (Briggs & Stratton oil PN: 100028, filter calls for B&S 492932 - obsolete, I used B&S PN: 842921.)
  • Checked the fuel solenoid (it is working). I hear a very positive click from the bottom of the carburetor bowl when it opens and closes from an ignition key turn.
  • Pulled the fuel line off of the carburetor. Fuel is going through the fuel filter and getting to the carburetor. There is a small stream of fuel coming from the end of the fuel line.
  • Sprayed a little starter fluid (used Berryman b12 carb cleaner) into the carb air inlet. Where the air filter attaches to. Sprayed again while trying to start the mower. No change.
  • Checked for spark. Getting spark to the plug. According to an inline tester. Then I removed the spark plug, inserted it into the spark plug boot, rested the tip of the spark plug on a frame screw and tried to start the mower. Spark every time to the spark plug. I got another new spark plug (same as the one mentioned) and gapped it to 1/4". The spark plug post was sticking straight out with a slight bend over to center. I placed the spark plug into the spark plug boot and rested the tip on a frame screw. I turned the engine over. The plug sparked a few times, most of the time no spark.
  • I don't have a compression tester, but the engine sounds to be getting compression when it turns over. Sounds normal. When I turn the flywheel by hand, I can feel the compression. Hard to turn, then more loose, then hard again, etc. While the spark plug was out and I attempted to start the engine, fuel shot out of the spark plug hole about 3'. A lot of droplets, good spray, mist with every revolution.
  • With the spark plug out, I put a straw into the spark plug hole to see if the piston is rotating. It is. The straw slid across the top of the piston a little while I was holding it against it. When I pulled the straw out, I noticed a little black oil build up on the tip of the straw.
  • I don't see any frayed wires.
  • I have removed the ignition coil and lightly sanded the ends of the coil. I also lightly sanded the flywheel. I gapped the ignition coil to .011" - no change.
  • I have removed the fuel line at the carb, sprayed carb cleaner into the carb through the opening (most of it came right back out at me), let it sit overnight. Tried to start the next day, - no change.
  • I pulled the cooling fan off the top of the motor to check the keyway. No damage. I did not hit anything.
  • I cleaned the engine.
  • I have opened the valve cover to watch the valves operate. Everything had a slight coat of amber oil. As I turned the flywheel by hand, the bottom valve articulated in and then back out. Next the top valve did the same maneuver. Both valves are closed, the flywheel became resistant as the sound of air releasing would emanate from inside the engine, like a valve being released. Flywheel would become easy to turn and the valves would repeat the process.
 
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Scrubcadet10

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did you ever check the flywheel key?
 

Richard Milhous

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I have pulled the (new) spark plug out and rested it on a frame screw while the plug is plugged into the spark plug boot. The spark plug sparked every time. I gapped a different (new) plug to 1/4" and did the same test. That plug sparked a few times only, most of the time nothing.

There once was a young wrench named Slomo
Who gave good advice to some joker
Whose spark was not bright
And failed to ignite
Now we can all say "Hetoljaso"
 

D_H

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did you ever check the flywheel key?
 

D_H

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There once was a young wrench named Slomo
Who gave good advice to some joker
Whose spark was not bright
And failed to ignite
Now we can all say "Hetoljaso"
After the information I've provided:
  • Still think my ignition coil is bad?
Any further thoughts on the ignition coil being bad based on what I've said?
 

D_H

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Looks like no one wants to read, even if the information they are after is on the same page that they are commenting on...
 

Mower King

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rested the tip of the spark plug on a frame screw and tried to start the mower. Spark every time to the spark plug. I got another new spark plug (same as the one mentioned) and gapped it to 1/4".

A 1/4" spark plug gap?.....you better re-gap that spark plug first, before you try anything else!
 
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Scrubcadet10

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Heh Sorry, read right over it...?
 
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Scrubcadet10

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rested the tip of the spark plug on a frame screw and tried to start the mower. Spark every time to the spark plug. I got another new spark plug (same as the one mentioned) and gapped it to 1/4".

A 1/4" spark plug gap?.....you better re-gap that spark plug first, before you try anything else!
a healthy spark should be able to jump the 1/4" gap... think of it as a load test... as it has to over come immense compression in the cylinder.
 

bertsmobile1

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Well the post is starting to become a War & Peace length novel and reposting what you put in the original post does not help as we recognise it and bypass it.
Some people see your post as a thread while other who use phones will only see a series of emails so it is hard for them to follow the entire thread as it gets broken up by all of the rest of their normal email traffic .
If you have compression of a volatile fuel in a ratio that will ignite at that compression & a spark to ignite it then the engine will start & run.
In a situation like yours, ignoring all that has previously been said I start by getting a known good plug from a running engine .
remove the blower housing
By & large , while I listen the what the customer tells me I ignore it as by virtue of the fact the mower is in my shop their work is suspect .
Step 1
Put a short shot of starting fluid ( carb cleaner ) down the plug holes replace the plug & hit the starter
Goes bang = vales are closing , spark is good & at the right time. Go to step 2
Does not go bang the I remove the kill wires from the magnet & repeat
Goes bang = faulty wiring
Does not go bang = faulty magneto

Step 2
Repeat step 1 with customers plugs
Goes bang = plugs OK
No bang = faulty plugs
NB modern fuels are light oil with just enough volatiles to start a cold engine
IT IS HIGHLY CONDUCTIVE AT COMPRESSION PRESSURES so if it damps a brand new plug, the spark will track down the sides & not jump the gap.
The only way to remove this coating is to burn it off .
This is the "bad in the box" syndrome you keep hearing about because brand XYZ plugs are crap .

Step 3
Spray a SHORT SHOT of starter fluid down the carb ( Choke wide open ) close the choke and crank the engine
Goes Bang Bang Bang then valves are working properly & problem is with the fuel supply.
Does not go Bang = valve / cam problem

Enough typing from me for now.
If you wand my help then do EXACTLY what was asked and post the results
Telling me you did this last Sunday week is not good enough.
I need to know the answer as it happened today, not last week.

And sanding the coil & flywheel does more damage than good unless the rust is so thick that the coils touch the magnet as it passes.
Sanding the mounting posts so there is a know good ground is all that needs to be done
The kill wire terminal is self cleaning so the act of removing & replacing it will have cleaned it well enough.
 
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