Argh! Briggs Recoil
- Thread starter craig2
- Start date
The new recoil assembly came with a flywheel nut to thread onto the crankshaft extension, and that requires cutting the crankshaft extension. I could have purchased a bolt instead, but since this new recoil was going to solve all my problems there was no need to!
Anyway, I'll get a new crankshaft extension and go back to the old style clutch, the new style plastic pawls clearly aren't going to work.
So, no oil at all at the top of the crank extension? The Briggs manual calls for a drop or two of synthetic motor oil at that spot.
Anyway, I'll get a new crankshaft extension and go back to the old style clutch, the new style plastic pawls clearly aren't going to work.
So, no oil at all at the top of the crank extension? The Briggs manual calls for a drop or two of synthetic motor oil at that spot.
tom3
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I usually clean that extension with some steel wool, clean the bore, add a drop or two of oil, runs for years. Very unusual to have problems with that old style ball bearing recoil deal. Might look on Ebay for a package of those plastic pawls for the new starter, sometimes get them for cheap and have some on hand for the next time.
Thanks, I will get the plastic pawls and retainer as well, just in case.
Definitely going to switch back to the old style clutch, it's a much more robust system. Once I purchase a new crank extension I'll have all new parts. I still don't know why I had issues with it. One thing I just thought of is to be sure of proper vertical alignment between the clutch and the recoil mech so there is no unnecessary sideways force causing friction and heat.
Definitely going to switch back to the old style clutch, it's a much more robust system. Once I purchase a new crank extension I'll have all new parts. I still don't know why I had issues with it. One thing I just thought of is to be sure of proper vertical alignment between the clutch and the recoil mech so there is no unnecessary sideways force causing friction and heat.
bertsmobile1
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When you get it together please put your camera on something solid then do a video of you pull starting.
Either there is a problem with your engine ( hydrolocking ? ) or with your technique.
Usually the only time some one has problems like yours it is caused by an engine that has problems so requires excessive cranking to start.
Either there is a problem with your engine ( hydrolocking ? ) or with your technique.
Usually the only time some one has problems like yours it is caused by an engine that has problems so requires excessive cranking to start.
Fish: The crankshaft extension screws into the crank, part # 691779, pic below. I wouldn't have cut it if it was a permanent part of the crank! The updated replacement starter kit #693900 comes with instructions to cut part #691779 and use an included nut to fasten the flywheel.
bertsmobile1: I don't think it's any harder to pull start than a FC420V I had previously, that is it takes a solid pull to start. I am careful to take up the slack in the rope first so I'm pulling solidly against the clutch and not slamming against it. The issue isn't the pull start, it is after it is running for a while, the clutch mech starts to bind on the shaft, causing the rope to push out of the starter and messing up the spring. This has occurred repeatedly, even after replacing the clutch, sanding the shaft with fine steel wool, using one or two drops of oil, and trying different oils (synthetic motor oil, ATF, light machine oil). I did just buy a new recoil assembly, new crank extension, and a new clutch, so will be putting all new parts in. If that doesn't take care of it I'm not sure what will.
bertsmobile1: I don't think it's any harder to pull start than a FC420V I had previously, that is it takes a solid pull to start. I am careful to take up the slack in the rope first so I'm pulling solidly against the clutch and not slamming against it. The issue isn't the pull start, it is after it is running for a while, the clutch mech starts to bind on the shaft, causing the rope to push out of the starter and messing up the spring. This has occurred repeatedly, even after replacing the clutch, sanding the shaft with fine steel wool, using one or two drops of oil, and trying different oils (synthetic motor oil, ATF, light machine oil). I did just buy a new recoil assembly, new crank extension, and a new clutch, so will be putting all new parts in. If that doesn't take care of it I'm not sure what will.
bertsmobile1
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Interesting.
I can think of a couple of other reasons why this could be happening
1) bent or missaligned blower housing, had that happen on an old 8 Hp, A new blower housing fixed that .
2) bent crankshaft
3) worn top bush.
The latter was a tricky one as the engine cranked fine but would graunch when the blades were engaged.
Didn't end up diagnosing it till I pulled the belts off which took the lateral load off the crank after which I could wiggle it about .010" for & aft.
I can think of a couple of other reasons why this could be happening
1) bent or missaligned blower housing, had that happen on an old 8 Hp, A new blower housing fixed that .
2) bent crankshaft
3) worn top bush.
The latter was a tricky one as the engine cranked fine but would graunch when the blades were engaged.
Didn't end up diagnosing it till I pulled the belts off which took the lateral load off the crank after which I could wiggle it about .010" for & aft.
Fish
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Yes, how can one "easily" install this extension? Drill and tap a hole "on center" in your crankshaft?
Not trying to give you a hard time, just am curious.