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It sound like he was just started guessing without even looking the engine's IPL. Second mistake was ordering an aftermarket carburetor off Amazon.
Amazon carb for B&S engine, no threads, screw broke! It's a journey!!
- Thread starter TLloyd
- Start date
I received a new fuel stop solenoid. With 9 volt battery and a couple of short wires I verified the new solenoid works and the old one does NOT! Replaced it on carb. Now I'm waiting on replacement screw that broke trying to put in replacement carb! It's still a journey!
But the mower would crank! If it sat for a long period then it would crank and run for hours. It just would not crank when turned off - unless left sitting for many hours or overnight. Right now I'm thinking it the fuel shut off solenoid at bottom of carb.
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Then that sounds more like a heat soaked ignition coil pack. But you started out saying it simply would not start the next day.
Mower model 13AL79XT093 or CMXGRAM1130041
Engine 33R877 0033 G1 - single cylinder, 19 HP, 540 CC
Carb (# on carb - 592953, beneath that 23082319) Replacement # 594601
Now, if this has a fuel pump I do NOT find it! I thought this fuel supply system used vacuum method. Remember, this mower will run if left alone for many hours/overnight. If mower is turned off then tried to be restarted, it will not fire.
I'm looking at fuel shut off solenoid at bottom of carb. Using 9v battery and a couple of wires to check it, the original solenoid does not work.
Smithsonite
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If the bottom of fuel tank is ABOVE the carburetor bowl, then you won't have a fuel pump. If the carb is higher than the tank, you most definitely WILL have a pump. Just follow the feed line from the carb backwards to find it. It won't be far since it needs a crankcase pulse to work.
As far as the busted screw goes, just bring the old carb with you to a hardware store and grab screws to try until one fits, then use the size of that screw to buy a tap to rethread the hole. Been there, done that! Usually a really sh!tty day!
As far as the busted screw goes, just bring the old carb with you to a hardware store and grab screws to try until one fits, then use the size of that screw to buy a tap to rethread the hole. Been there, done that! Usually a really sh!tty day!
The screws you are using are self tapping screws. And hardware store will have them. They actually cut threads when you are putting it in the hole the first. In your next try, just after getting it started, drop a few drops of motor oil or any type of oil to lub. As you are cutting those threads, every half turn or so, reverse the screw to back it out a bit. Keep doing this and a bit of oil and you’ll be ok.
Dreaded
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Easy way to check to see if it is a fueling problem or ignition problem is to take some starting fluid and when mower quits on you spray some into the carb if it fires off for a few seconds then quits it is a fuel problem if it doesn't start for a few seconds then you have an ignition problem.
This sounds like something stopping fuel flow or your ignition system is shutting off. Since I work on small engines, I have had both to happen after running for a period of time.
When you buy fuel from a station that fuel is not 100% trash free and when you fill your mower tank you can get trash in it when filling from around the cap or wind. So, that is the reason for a fuel filter but just like today on my 4X4 I kept having issues with it running good for a while then the carb would start leaking fuel and it would start back firing and sputtering. I cleaned the carb; it would still run good then start leaking etc. The problem was the fuel filter was not filtering the fuel. The element inside the filter had come loose and was allowing trash to get by and that trash was preventing the needle valve from closing and causing it to flood and leak fuel. That filter caused me all sorts of problems lol and the thing is it was changed last year when I serviced my 4X4. It has run well since I replaced the filter and fuel lines.
Fuel lines can also give problems. I had a fuel line break down inside it and it would close off causing the fuel to be blocked.
As to ignition systems they use electronic components in the newer models that can quit working after a time and after cooling down start working again. Coils can open and stop firing then cool down and start firing again.
This sounds like something stopping fuel flow or your ignition system is shutting off. Since I work on small engines, I have had both to happen after running for a period of time.
When you buy fuel from a station that fuel is not 100% trash free and when you fill your mower tank you can get trash in it when filling from around the cap or wind. So, that is the reason for a fuel filter but just like today on my 4X4 I kept having issues with it running good for a while then the carb would start leaking fuel and it would start back firing and sputtering. I cleaned the carb; it would still run good then start leaking etc. The problem was the fuel filter was not filtering the fuel. The element inside the filter had come loose and was allowing trash to get by and that trash was preventing the needle valve from closing and causing it to flood and leak fuel. That filter caused me all sorts of problems lol and the thing is it was changed last year when I serviced my 4X4. It has run well since I replaced the filter and fuel lines.
Fuel lines can also give problems. I had a fuel line break down inside it and it would close off causing the fuel to be blocked.
As to ignition systems they use electronic components in the newer models that can quit working after a time and after cooling down start working again. Coils can open and stop firing then cool down and start firing again.