All the oils & grease - beginner questions

[whodunit68]

so, I'm prepared for the "how can he not know this stuff?" head-shaking....but I'm going to put it out there.
I'm about 3 months in to a new Ferris ISX800 and a trailer to haul her around.
there's a lot of talk about lubrication and grease for the ZTR and I'd like to take care of it but it's my first....and I don't know.

manual says
"Use grease fittings when present. Disassemble parts to apply
grease to moving parts when grease fittings are not installed.
Not all greases are compatible. Grease (p/n 5022285) is a
Calcium Sulfonate EP NLGI #2 grease that is recommended
and available through your normal parts source. Lithium
Complex EP-2 NLGI #2 grease may be used if 5022285 is not
available."

This is great for fittings. I search for Calcium Sulfonate and got overwhelmed. Do you use it? Which one? I have seen dozens of threads on "which oil do you use for..." but....
then there's the grease gun. I don't own one (I'll get you're not surprised!). I will purchase when I can figure out which will be the best use-case for me.

And here's where I get super beginner on you....
"
Oil:
• control handle pivots
• seat plate pivots
• deck lift pivots
• discharge chute hinge
Generally, all moving metal parts should be oiled where
contact is made with other parts. Keep oil and grease off belts
and pulleys. Remember to wipe fittings and surfaces clean
both before and after lubrication."

What kind of oil is that? Is that something obvious like WD-40 or 3-in-1?
Sorry to ask such basic questions but I suppose everyone has to start somewhere.

If you have any questions about software or the industry, or about cave diving, fire away .
Steve

 

[SARG]

Best advice after half a century maintaining machines .... keep it simple.
Any grease is better than no grease and any "oil" will work for lubrication. Some sprays are easier and know that WD40 is a water displacement formula ........ not a good lubricant.

 

[ILENGINE]

The general rule on grease is you cannot mix Urea base grease with Lithium base grease. And you can use any oil that is handy. So if you have a bottle of 30w or 10w30 or 10w40 or 15w40 or 20w50 or 5w30 it doesn't matter, use it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

As Sarge said.
Lithium spray grease with a spray straw applied liberally AFTER you have finished mowing and blown down the mower clean
That way the solvents used to spray the grease with will have all evaporated so will not collect dust in use.
I use lithium marine grease everywhere else because it has better weather resistance than most others greases,
Next best after that is High Tac farm grease, also Lithium
Calcium grease is generally used for food production and is a lot more expensive.
As for grease guns , because I use a lot of grease it is a McNaught mini-Lube which clips onto a 5lb ( 1 gallon ) can of grease most places and a Tricor dripless gun everywhere else because as the name says it does not drip.
Some have special ends so I can get them into tight places
So there are 3 McNaughts one each for Marine, LMM & bentinite greases and 5 tricors as 2 have 45 deg ends
The LMM is mostly used on chain saws and in manual gear boxes.

With engine oils the brand is nowhere near as important as how often & when you change it
Aircooled mower oils will of course be better than car oils but not if they are not changed and in particular at the end of the mowing season which for most people will be enough
So on your last mow of the season, drain the oil while the mower is cooling down & you are cleaning it then leave it full of nice clean fresh oil ove r winter .

 

[7394]

1st: Did you do the early oil & filter change. Kawasaki recommends by 8 hours. Not sure what engine you have tho ?

So after the oil & filter change at end of each season, & oiling the pivot points & greasing the (zerks) fittings. (& deck underside cleaned out, & blades & belts inspected.)

Don't be shy to get the Wax out, a waxed mower will blow off much easier thru mow season, thus protecting yer investment. Also while doing this look at every nut & bolt to see that they are still there, & are good & tight. This gets you more familiar with your new baby. aka better to maintain it. & READ your owners manual.

My mower is up on car wheel-dolleys right now covered in wax..

Ask any questions you may have. So many here with super knowledge & skills, ready to help.

 

[whodunit68]

1st: Did you do the early oil & filter change. Kawasaki recommends by 8 hours. Not sure what engine you have tho ?

So after the oil & filter change at end of each season, & oiling the pivot points & greasing the (zerks) fittings. (& deck underside cleaned out, & blades & belts inspected.)

Don't be shy to get the Wax out, a waxed mower will blow off much easier thru mow season, thus protecting yer investment. Also while doing this look at every nut & bolt to see that they are still there, & are good & tight. This gets you more familiar with your new baby. aka better to maintain it. & READ your owners manual.

My mower is up on car wheel-dolleys right now covered in wax..

Ask any questions you may have. So many here with super knowledge & skills, ready to help.

thank you all for the great info.

I do have a Kawasaki but did not do an early oil change. The manual does not suggest it - I checked.

This is great detail - thank you!
What kind of oil do you use for pivot points - is that simply a WD40?
the zerks I think they answered.
you're right, people are incredibly knowledgeable and I'm a complete complete newbie so very appreciative.

 

[bertsmobile1]

WD 40 is not a lubricant despite what it says on the side of the can
Use dry lithium spray grease , often called white grease or body grease.
Apply after you have blown down the parts to remove the dirt & dust.
Use the straw that comes with the can to force the spray into joints then leave the mower alone for a couple of hours till the solvent evaporates .
I go through a new can to every 2 to 3 services .

 

[7394]

you're right, people are incredibly knowledgeable and I'm a complete complete newbie so very appreciative.

You're in the right place.. We all start from some point. I'm always open to learning new stuff. Some that don't ask & assume, well that is just not a good choice.

Which Kawasaki do you have ? How many hours on the meter ?

Hopefully you did end of season oil change at least.

 

[whodunit68]

WD 40 is not a lubricant despite what it says on the side of the can
Use dry lithium spray grease , often called white grease or body grease.
Apply after you have blown down the parts to remove the dirt & dust.
Use the straw that comes with the can to force the spray into joints then leave the mower alone for a couple of hours till the solvent evaporates .
I go through a new can to every 2 to 3 services .

huge thanks - perfectly broken down for the newbie (me).

 

[whodunit68]

You're in the right place.. We all start from some point. I'm always open to learning new stuff. Some that don't ask & assume, well that is just not a good choice.

Which Kawasaki do you have ? How many hours on the meter ?

Hopefully you did end of season oil change at least.

my apologies for not responding sooner. The Kawasaki is an FT-730V EFI and it's got about 26 hours.

Appreciate the kind words....you know how it is when you jump into a place new with enthusiasts and I'm 53 but don't know a lick.

I haven't done end-of-season oil change yet as Kawasaki, the dealer, and the manual all say 100 hours for the first one. If that's not good direction, I'm open.