About the steering system.

[Bange]

Pull # 2 out and check the bushes and the hole they run in
One of the two plates that # 2 sits between will have slots for the purpose of adjustment
Usually it is the front one
When you turn there isa very high bending moment at the pivot

I already did that a few days ago... there was a lot of looseness and I corrected it a little, but I think it's acceptable due to the age of the machine, but now I'm going to remove and analyze the geometry of the tubes... or they welded crooked (not likely) or it was a heavy blow.
Review the ugly weld in post #19... break this rod, just with a very strong blow (my suspicion).

 

[Bange]

The bushings are reasonably good, but there is a gap of +- 2mm in the bushings in relation to #2 in the longitudinal direction... grinding the smaller diameter side of one of the bushings it disappears, but there are strange wear marks for normal use.

Bertsmobile1 said that " The bushes # 67 are supposed to be oiled daily but most are never ever touched ".
There is no way to do this without removing the part from its place, there is no grease nipple or any other facility.

Well, it turns out that the play has a twist.
I don't know how to fix this without some control.
After cleaning the piece, I found a micro crack, which is another sign that there was a blow.




This part is ok...

This is the twist I was referring to...

 

[Bange]

I managed to get it right without too much trouble... all I had to do was use the larger vise from a friend's auto shop.

 

[Forest#2]

I really like to make them bend adjustments on Bro In Laws equipment. (just kidding)
I've got a big stout 8 inch vise with a base set in concrete and a big oxy/acet torch I can easily bend railroad iron if needed.

You might want to get into doing wheel alignments for lawn tractors.

 

[Bange]

My vise is small and my bench is very weak... but I didn't use heat to straighten it out... it was on the arm itself and a good iron tube.
This piece is common iron, stamped in two halves and soldered, not very hard.
I redone a weld that broke and fixed the other one that was already opening... in the end I reinforced all the welds.
Tomorrow I'll have to heat it up to unbend one of the draglinks, with the new articulated ends, one of them is very forced in its angular limit, but my torch is portable... it only bends toy train tracks...

 

[Bange]

As I said yesterday, today I straightened a draglink in the heat and it was symmetrical in relation to the other.
A negative point was that I cut the welded screws wrong (short) and had to weld others, which were aesthetically even better than the previous ones.
Another negative point is that the articulated terminals connected to the wheels will be upside down in relation to the diagram, as they are high and hit the chassis, depending on the inclination of the front axle... it was not pretty, but it was functional and without colliding with anything.
I could even bend the wheel axle ear more, but I preferred to invert the terminal.


Now it's much easier to adjust the alignment... the gap in the set was only in the gearing of the steering wheel shaft with the sector plate, a little thing.

 

[Bange]

And now the closing with a golden key, using the last word in direction alignment.