7hp briggs on a craftman pressure washer. Can't pull (compression)

[ghper]

I can not start my pressure washer without holding the trigger open on the wand. Too much pressure to pull the rope.

 

[Fish]

Torx tips are tapered, it is likely the t15, just the tip or fastener is likely boogered up a little

 

[tucolawn]

OK. Finally got the model of the engine, and also figured out the screw problem. It is indeed an SAE hex key (allan) bolt.

The engine model is 129612 0114 E1. I've been able to find parts sheets, but no manual or specs on the valve adjustment. Thanks for any help on that!

 

[Rivets]

This manual should help you out.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12502267/B&S Service Manuals/10_276781SingleCylinderOHV.pdf

 

[tybilly]

this might be a longshot,if the crankcase isn't full of gas,ill almost bet the pump is bad

 

[tucolawn]

this might be a longshot,if the crankcase isn't full of gas,ill almost bet the pump is bad

could the pump be bad, but still have the symptom where the start cord will pull freely on when the spark plug is out?

Also, I'm thinking the valves are not the problem. After seeing the specs in the manual, it seems they were pretty close to being in spec. I've read that the compression release mechanism on the cam can actually break. I don't know what it's going to take to check that though. Wouldn't that require complete engine disassy?

 

[Fish]

Rotate the flywheel so that the piston is at top dead cylinder, and both valves are fully closed{rocker arms loose}. Measure the clearances using feeler gauges and
post them here, I am betting that they are too great, thus causing your problem. That is your next step.

 

[tucolawn]

Rotate the flywheel so that the piston is at top dead cylinder, and both valves are fully closed{rocker arms loose}. Measure the clearances using feeler gauges and
post them here, I am betting that they are too great, thus causing your problem. That is your next step.

Thanks, and I did get the engine to finally allow me to pull over with the plug in , by tightening those valves.

I thought I had this problem fixed, but after putting it back together, I am not able to get any starting action with the engine Also, it feels now like there maybe not enough compression. I do have spark, and I used a lot of starting fluid in the cylinder and intake. Didn't help at all.

Not sure if this is possible, but I think I may have adjusted the valves to stop the jam up, but may have not adjusted them properly and caused another problem. I'm still confused on the whole TDC and 1/4 past TDC stuff as I don't even know what I should be using for this engine. Also, the feelers I have only go down to .006. So, how I adjusted the intake (top I think) was to tighten down on the .006 feeler until it would barely move.

The only other thing I'm puzzled by is the engine oil. It seems to be overfilled and maybe filled with gas. I lost a LOT of oil on the floor when I took off the valve cover (more than they say should come out), and still the stick is showing slightly above full on the oil. I also had oil literally shoot me twice in the face when I was pulling the rip cord with the plug out (shot from the cylinder). Now, I did have the engine tipped backwards on edge a lot, so that probably causes some problems like this. Not sure what any of this means, but would appreciate any more ideas. In particular how I can make sure those valves are adjusted within the proper spec. Thanks!

 

[Fish]

Get a better/wider range of feeler gauges, and adjust the engine correctly!!!!! Google some vids of the procedure!!!! Fix it and be done!!!!

 

[Carscw]

You have already answered your own Question. The oil is so over full that it shoots out the spark plug hole and is still over full.
Does it smell of gas?

If the crank case is over full the engine will not turn over as it should.

Change the oil and get the valves close. It will run if they are close