24hp Kohler Hard to Start When Cold

[twerth]

So, a few days ago, I reversed the work I did on the choke linkage and then adjusted it using the throttle cable clamp as you guys suggested. I was actually able to close the choke tighter that way, and it was easier to do than bending the linkage (I bet you already knew that ). It was still fairly warm that day (>40 deg.), and the tractor fired right up. Today it's closer to 30 deg., and I needed the tractor to drag some firewood up to the house. She fired right up and ran great. I'm going to call this one solved. Thanks a lot for your help!

 

[Rivets]

Glad to hear you solved the problem. Most times we never hear what happens. Thank you.

 

[mechanizm]

These engines are designed to run almost too lean to please the EPA Stasi. If it stars well in the Summer and not Winter, I'd just squirt a little starting fluid into the intake during Winter start-ups. the air cleaner assembly comes off super easy and it sure beats draining your battery and putting wear on your starter motor.

Edit: ok, you solved the problem BUT, if you let it sit for a month in the winter you will likely have the same problem because the gas in the float-bowl has evaporated. Gas will evaporate more quickly in dry weather. Then you'll have to crank it to get the pump to fill-up the float bowl before it will start even if the choke is fully closed. In the Summer you don't have this problem because it takes less gas to get it started and you're using it often, not allowing the carb to go dry.

 

[donslawns]

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.

It seems that I find a fair amount of Kohler twins that the choke is not fully closing. If you have separate controls then it is just a choke cable adjustment. I have cured several with just that.

 

[Msolomon]

seems to happen on Kohlers alot more.

 

[S.A.P.]

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.

I'd guess that it has one of thum vacuum fuel pumps on it to suck gas up to the carb. Many times the fuel gets sucked back into the tank, or the pump takes time when the engine is turning over to supply fuel to the carb. I would suggest installing a low pressure electric fuel pump hooked to the ignition on switch. Now when U go to start the tractor, let the pump work a few seconds until the fuel is there, then crank the engine, and yore problem is eliminated. I see this same problem on any tractor that requires engine vacuum to supply the fuel. If the carb was fed by gravity, U wouldn't have this problem in the first place. U wouldn't be rolling, and rolling, and rolling the engine over, burning up yore starter, battery, and wiring either !

 

[rhiebert]

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.

From experience with small engines like this using synthetic engine oil and a gasoline Stablizer or Performance Improver does amazing.

 

[T/AChad]

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.

Stop using ethanol fuel and find a station that has non ethanol fuel. We have QT gas stations in Texas. What happens is the alcohol evaporates and gums things up. So you have to crank longer to fill the gummed up fuel system.

 

[Freddie21]

Another suggestion, switch to the ethanol free gas for the winter use. Fires much easier. It's more pricey, so reg gas for the summer would work.

 

[VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ]

I followed Rivets' suggestion and checked my choke plate. It wasn't closing all the way, so I adjusted it by bending the linkage. Adjusting the throttle cable would have affected engine speed, so this seemed like a better idea. It started easier than expected, but it was almost 45 degrees so I'll need to test it again when it's colder. Looks like I'm on the right track though.

To follow up on berts' suggestion, I've been running 10w-30 year round, so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated.

In most cases, bending the throttle cable would be the wrong thing to do. Most times, the cable clamp must be loosened and allow the cable to move the linkage to full position for full choke. Engine max rpm is controlled by the governor. It might rev higher when you move the cable clamp but, if the governor is correct, it will not be above factory setting, usually 3600. Which by the way, on hydrostatic tranny is what you need to do most times to extend it's life.