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24hp Kohler Hard to Start When Cold

#1

T

twerth

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.


#2

R

Rivets

The very first thing I would check is to make sure the choke plate is fully closed when you you put the throttle control in the choke position. Easy check, remove air filter and watch the choke while moving the control. If it does not close fully, loosen the throttle cable clamp and adjust the cable forward until the plate fully closes, tighten clamp. This is a constant problem with these engines as they age.


#3

T

twerth

The very first thing I would check is to make sure the choke plate is fully closed when you you put the throttle control in the choke position. Easy check, remove air filter and watch the choke while moving the control. If it does not close fully, loosen the throttle cable clamp and adjust the cable forward until the plate fully closes, tighten clamp. This is a constant problem with these engines as they age.
Thanks for the quick response! I'll check the choke tonight and let you know what I find.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

Also have a think about the oil.
If you are going to work in the snow you need to use a 10W30 or 10W40
Strait 30 oil will go too thick thus create too much drag which slows down the cranking speed which makes it hard to start


#5

T

twerth

I followed Rivets' suggestion and checked my choke plate. It wasn't closing all the way, so I adjusted it by bending the linkage. Adjusting the throttle cable would have affected engine speed, so this seemed like a better idea. It started easier than expected, but it was almost 45 degrees so I'll need to test it again when it's colder. Looks like I'm on the right track though.

To follow up on berts' suggestion, I've been running 10w-30 year round, so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated.


#6

R

Rivets

If you would have loosenEd the throttle cable clamp and push the cable forward until the choke closed it would not have affected the engine speed. Better to do it this way than to start bending linkages.


#7

B

bertsmobile1

You will probably find the cable had slipped and the mower was actually running a bit slow when under load .


#8

T

twerth

Damn! Back to the drawing board. I'll take another look and probably undo what I've already done. Thanks again, fellas.


#9

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

The very first thing I would check is to make sure the choke plate is fully closed when you you put the throttle control in the choke position. Easy check, remove air filter and watch the choke while moving the control. If it does not close fully, loosen the throttle cable clamp and adjust the cable forward until the plate fully closes, tighten clamp. This is a constant problem with these engines as they age.
seems to happen on Kohlers alot more.


#10

I

ILENGINE

seems to happen on Kohlers alot more.
I have had several Husqvarna mowers over the years with the same issue. With Briggs and Kohler engines.


#11

T

twerth

So, a few days ago, I reversed the work I did on the choke linkage and then adjusted it using the throttle cable clamp as you guys suggested. I was actually able to close the choke tighter that way, and it was easier to do than bending the linkage (I bet you already knew that ;)). It was still fairly warm that day (>40 deg.), and the tractor fired right up. Today it's closer to 30 deg., and I needed the tractor to drag some firewood up to the house. She fired right up and ran great. I'm going to call this one solved. Thanks a lot for your help!


#12

R

Rivets

Glad to hear you solved the problem. Most times we never hear what happens. Thank you.


#13

mechanizm

mechanizm

These engines are designed to run almost too lean to please the EPA Stasi. If it stars well in the Summer and not Winter, I'd just squirt a little starting fluid into the intake during Winter start-ups. the air cleaner assembly comes off super easy and it sure beats draining your battery and putting wear on your starter motor.

Edit: ok, you solved the problem BUT, if you let it sit for a month in the winter you will likely have the same problem because the gas in the float-bowl has evaporated. Gas will evaporate more quickly in dry weather. Then you'll have to crank it to get the pump to fill-up the float bowl before it will start even if the choke is fully closed. In the Summer you don't have this problem because it takes less gas to get it started and you're using it often, not allowing the carb to go dry.


#14

D

donslawns

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
It seems that I find a fair amount of Kohler twins that the choke is not fully closing. If you have separate controls then it is just a choke cable adjustment. I have cured several with just that.


#15

M

Msolomon

seems to happen on Kohlers alot more.


#16

S

S.A.P.

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
I'd guess that it has one of thum vacuum fuel pumps on it to suck gas up to the carb. Many times the fuel gets sucked back into the tank, or the pump takes time when the engine is turning over to supply fuel to the carb. I would suggest installing a low pressure electric fuel pump hooked to the ignition on switch. Now when U go to start the tractor, let the pump work a few seconds until the fuel is there, then crank the engine, and yore problem is eliminated. I see this same problem on any tractor that requires engine vacuum to supply the fuel. If the carb was fed by gravity, U wouldn't have this problem in the first place. U wouldn't be rolling, and rolling, and rolling the engine over, burning up yore starter, battery, and wiring either !


#17

rhiebert

rhiebert

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
From experience with small engines like this using synthetic engine oil and a gasoline Stablizer or Performance Improver does amazing.


#18

T

T/AChad

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
Stop using ethanol fuel and find a station that has non ethanol fuel. We have QT gas stations in Texas. What happens is the alcohol evaporates and gums things up. So you have to crank longer to fill the gummed up fuel system.


#19

F

Freddie21

Another suggestion, switch to the ethanol free gas for the winter use. Fires much easier. It's more pricey, so reg gas for the summer would work.


#20

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

I followed Rivets' suggestion and checked my choke plate. It wasn't closing all the way, so I adjusted it by bending the linkage. Adjusting the throttle cable would have affected engine speed, so this seemed like a better idea. It started easier than expected, but it was almost 45 degrees so I'll need to test it again when it's colder. Looks like I'm on the right track though.

To follow up on berts' suggestion, I've been running 10w-30 year round, so that shouldn't be an issue. Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated.
In most cases, bending the throttle cable would be the wrong thing to do. Most times, the cable clamp must be loosened and allow the cable to move the linkage to full position for full choke. Engine max rpm is controlled by the governor. It might rev higher when you move the cable clamp but, if the governor is correct, it will not be above factory setting, usually 3600. Which by the way, on hydrostatic tranny is what you need to do most times to extend it's life.


#21

T

Tumbleweeds

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
Never use starting fluid it drys out any lubricants in the cylinder use carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner spray. Oil 5w 30 in winter. Other info about the choke is correct.


#22

T

Tumbleweeds

Another suggestion, switch to the ethanol free gas for the winter use. Fires much easier. It's more pricey, so reg gas for the summer would work.
Hard to come by in some places. Try mid grade.


#23

G

Gord Baker

After checking Choke setting, replace spark plugs. Use fresh fuel.


#24

T

Tbone0106

The advice to use non-ethanol gas in the winter (actually year-round) is good. You can find the nearest source at www.pure-gas.org. If there's a marina near you with a fueling dock, that's a very good place to find it.

Ethanol does absolutely nothing good for your engine, winter or summer. Among its many drawbacks (lower energy content, for instance) ethanol is hydrophilic, which is a fancy way of saying that it attracts water. I shouldn't have to explain that attracting water into your fuel system ain't a good idea.

Switching to a multi-vis motor oil is also a good idea. And I would suggest a careful setting of the valve lash in the fall as part of your regular winter prep maintenance. If the lash is off just a couple thousandths, it can disable the partial compression-release system that is built into these engines, making starting MUCH more difficult in any weather.


#25

D

DCCBill

good thread - - here's a trick -- next time if you take off the breather air intake and the choke plate isn't closed properly you can quickly determine if that's the problem by cupping your hand over the mouth of the carb intake and starting it - - if it starts immediately you are confirming it likely was the failure of the choke plate to be closed -- i also wanted to echo the earlier comments about using ethanol free gas.... plus of course using STABIL and/or SeaFoam as additives --i actually put it in empty gas can before i go to fill them -- that way i have it in the cans to prevent moisture and other fuel problems during storage - its also likely some of us use less gas during winter to move snow than we do mowing so gas sits longer unused?????? Also want to echo about using proper oil -- eg: 5w-30 during winter --which as stated earlier wrong oil viscosity can make starting more difficult.......i have older '80 Kohler twin 17 so i am actually starting to switch to Kohler brand oil that includes the ZDDP zinc phosphorus additive which is healthier for older Kohlers

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#26

T

Tbone0106

good thread - - here's a trick -- next time if you take off the breather air intake and the choke plate isn't closed properly you can quickly determine if that's the problem by cupping your hand over the mouth of the carb intake and starting it - - if it starts immediately you are confirming it likely was the failure of the choke plate to be closed -- i also wanted to echo the earlier comments about using ethanol free gas.... plus of course using STABIL and/or SeaFoam as additives --i actually put it in empty gas can before i go to fill them -- that way i have it in the cans to prevent moisture and other fuel problems during storage - its also likely some of us use less gas during winter to move snow than we do mowing so gas sits longer unused?????? Also want to echo about using proper oil -- eg: 5w-30 during winter --which as stated earlier wrong oil viscosity can make starting more difficult.......i have older '80 Kohler twin 17 so i am actually starting to switch to Kohler brand oil that includes the ZDDP zinc phosphorus additive which is healthier for older Kohlers

Fuel stabilizers don't really counteract the shortcomings of ethanol gas. The best thing to put in the tank is GASOLINE, pure and simple. That's because the engines, especially the older ones, were engineered to run on GASOLINE, pure and simple.

I see that you just joined the forum, and I'll offer a hearty welcome! But I also note that you joined on December 18, 2022 -- which is TOMORROW. Now that is a pretty neat trick! Perhaps one of the moderators here can explain how you did this little time-travel thing.


#27

S

skiman

same here with similar issues with both briggs and kohlers in need of choke flap fully closing from time to time...


#28

cantdw

cantdw

Damn! Back to the drawing board. I'll take another look and probably undo what I've already done. Thanks again, fellas.
Not to beat a dead horse, but Rivets is right on the money. Better never to try a short cut on a mower, in heavy traffic or elsewhere in life, since lack of patience and ignoring intended design will inevitably bite you in arse. I have the marks to prove it!


#29

cantdw

cantdw

Fuel stabilizers don't really counteract the shortcomings of ethanol gas. The best thing to put in the tank is GASOLINE, pure and simple. That's because the engines, especially the older ones, were engineered to run on GASOLINE, pure and simple.

I see that you just joined the forum, and I'll offer a hearty welcome! But I also note that you joined on December 18, 2022 -- which is TOMORROW. Now that is a pretty neat trick! Perhaps one of the moderators here can explain how you did this little time-travel thing.
TBone, when you look out at the celestial heavens and think, WOW!, I must be the only one who can see the beauty of the night sky, think again. Its yesterday, today and tomorrow all the time - it just depends on where you are on the Earth and your point of view. Happy Holidays!


#30

T

Tbone0106

TBone, when you look out at the celestial heavens and think, WOW!, I must be the only one who can see the beauty of the night sky, think again. Its yesterday, today and tomorrow all the time - it just depends on where you are on the Earth and your point of view. Happy Holidays!
Nicely said. The night sky is truly a wonder, but so is the world when the sun shines. My favorite hymn of all is "How Great Thou Art." A quick review of those lyrics will tell you how I feel each and every time I step outside.

My "seasonal" greeting will never change. It is always "MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!"


#31

P

pliers

Never use starting fluid it drys out any lubricants in the cylinder use carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner spray. Oil 5w 30 in winter. Other info about the choke is correct.
Also try riching up the carb setting, and check the valve adjustments


#32

M

Msolomon

I have had several Husqvarna mowers over the years with the same issue. With Briggs and Kohler engines.
The Kohler engines use Carbs. that don't have replaceable throttle shaft bushings or seals. Even with the choke plate adjusted properly the engine will draw air between the body and shaft. starting will still be difficult. Power be off under a load. Some well equipped machine shops are capable of
installing new bushings and seals. In the future you can remove the throttle plate remove the shaft using the right diameter drift punch
or small diameter 1/4 drive deep socket to remove and replace the
seals and bushings


#33

B

bertsmobile1

TBone, when you look out at the celestial heavens and think, WOW!, I must be the only one who can see the beauty of the night sky, think again. Its yesterday, today and tomorrow all the time - it just depends on where you are on the Earth and your point of view. Happy Holidays!
it is Sunday night where I am now
As for night skys you have nothing to compare to the Southern hemisphere night skys
The night sky down here has so many stars that the black fellas do not name the stars, they name the few pieces of dark sky between the stars
ie:- dark emu
When you get west of the mountains here and away from the light pollution the skys are really mind blowing.
It was a massive problem for the Northern hemisphere explorers because there were very few stars to navigate by as the entire sky is bright and any constellations they though they new were upside down.


#34

I

ILENGINE

The Kohler engines use Carbs. that don't have replaceable throttle shaft bushings or seals. Even with the choke plate adjusted properly the engine will draw air between the body and shaft. starting will still be difficult. Power be off under a load. Some well equipped machine shops are capable of
installing new bushings and seals. In the future you can remove yhe throttle
A lot of Briggs carbs don't have shaft seals or bushing either. So that point is not relevant. What Kohler has that Briggs doesn't is the spring loaded choke that allows it to partially open on the intake stroke to help prevent flooding. Creates the same issues as a choke that isn't completely closed. But that system is normally used on the command engines and some Courage and even then most of the time cold starting isn't an issue. I have had a couple handfuls of engines that wouldn't start below 30 degrees F. One was Courage single that I fixed the issue by modifying the choke plate from 4 holes to 2 and the rest were Briggs engines which could be started if you move the equipment out into the sun for a couple of hours.


#35

StarTech

StarTech

I believe that Kohler spring loaded is meant to partially open when the engine is running and not when cranking.

Now modifying choke is an old Tecumseh trick that works on a lot of engines. Sometimes you can find a different plate (vane, butterfly) that has smaller holes. Other times it takes sealing one of holes or welding up a hole and drilling it out smaller. I have even installed screws and nuts to seal them up but of they got to be pinged to prevent from coming apart and being inhaled.

I got a Subaru 650 wagon that has such a mod done. It would not start to save your life below 35F.

And I also engines that these vane holes had to be enlarged due startup flooding while cranking.


#36

P

pliers

Im not sure if I replied yet, but check for good spark, it should be blue, and maybe adjust carb to run a bit richer., of course you probably know the other basics, like plug (proper one, or maybe try a hotter one), and use fresh fuel and stabilizer.


#37

P

pliers

I believe that Kohler spring loaded is meant to partially open when the engine is running and not when cranking.

Now modifying choke is an old Tecumseh trick that works on a lot of engines. Sometimes you can find a different plate (vane, butterfly) that has smaller holes. Other times it takes sealing one of holes or welding up a hole and drilling it out smaller. I have even installed screws and nuts to seal them up but of they got to be pinged to prevent from coming apart and being inhaled.

I got a Subaru 650 wagon that has such a mod done. It would not start to save your life below 35F.

And I also engines that these vane holes had to be enlarged due startup flooding while cranking.


#38

P

pliers

I thank good for fuel injection. I spent many morning freezing my ass off messing with chokes


#39

StarTech

StarTech

Im not sure if I replied yet, but check for good spark, it should be blue, and maybe adjust carb to run a bit richer., of course you probably know the other basics, like plug (proper one, or maybe try a hotter one), and use fresh fuel and stabilizer.
Color of spark is environment depend. When salty air is present the spark can be more orange like the sodium street lights.


#40

S

Sherman Anderson

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
For my Kohler Command Pro engines, 6 HP (2003) & 12.75 HP (2009) I rely on OPEngines of Salem, Oregon for manuals and clear information. Their data sheets and manuals are excellent. I suggest you print a manual for your v-twin then check specifications set of your engine. Good. Luck!


#41

H

hlw49

Then there are the mowers that the manufacturer did not put a throttle control the had enough travel. Problem here is when you adjust the control to properly choke the engine to start then when you set the control to full throttle the choke does not come all the way off.


#42

oldsquare1

oldsquare1

For my Kohler Command Pro engines, 6 HP (2003) & 12.75 HP (2009) I rely on OPEngines of Salem, Oregon for manuals and clear information. Their data sheets and manuals are excellent. I suggest you print a manual for your v-twin then check specifications set of your engine. Good. Luck!
Wow, what a treasure trove of manuals. I'm in the process of downloading all of them for future reference. THANK YOU Sherman Anderson for the source!


#43

B

barny57

My JD did the some, put a carb kit and set the governor, use it to blow snow it was 3 above zero yesterday, and don’t need to run the nipko on it for a half hour like before


#44

J

Johner

I have a 2018 model Kohler 24hp V-twin in a Cub Cadet XT1 that I've owned since new. It's a mower in the summer and gets a snow blade for winter use. It's always been hard to start when it's cold (<45 degrees), and I have to use starting fluid if it gets much below 40 deg. F. It lives in an unconditioned shed and is on at battery tender year-round.

I have the engine manual that came with it, but it's pretty vague. They evidently don't want owners messing with their machinery. Can anyone here help me out with some adjustments to improve cold starting? Thanks in advance.
I have an older Kohler similar problem hard starting in idle, until you increased the throttle. Inside the carb there is a jet that has 2 O-rings very small. Bottom O-ring was cracked, replaced O-ring and all is good. The jet is removable about 1" or so long.


#45

I

ILENGINE

I believe that Kohler spring loaded is meant to partially open when the engine is running and not when cranking.

Now modifying choke is an old Tecumseh trick that works on a lot of engines. Sometimes you can find a different plate (vane, butterfly) that has smaller holes. Other times it takes sealing one of holes or welding up a hole and drilling it out smaller. I have even installed screws and nuts to seal them up but of they got to be pinged to prevent from coming apart and being inhaled.

I got a Subaru 650 wagon that has such a mod done. It would not start to save your life below 35F.

And I also engines that these vane holes had to be enlarged due startup flooding while cranking.
Most will flutter when the engine is cranking. Sometimes it is how the tension is set on the spring from the factory. But I have seen more that flutter than stay closed during cranking.


#46

reynoldston

reynoldston

I see that the choke and oil has been covered. When you say it starts hard what is it doing? Turns over very slow? You might want to check to see if the fuel pump is holding pressure seeing it starts with starting fluid. There are many things that can cause hard starting?


#47

T

twerth

Wow! This thread has taken on a life of its own! So many people reaching out to try to help. What a great forum!

To circle back, adjusting the choke solved the problem. Easy fix that I should have been able to figure out myself. Thanks!!

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