I have a 2300 Series Cub with a 18 hp Kohler single cylinder. Problem is it runs good until it gets up to operating temp then it acts like it runs out of fuel. Carb has been cleaned, new air filter, fuel filter, spark plug and oil was fresh at start of season. Could points cause this?
2300 series 18hp kohler acts like out of fuel once warmed up
- Thread starter knack
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Carscw
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Does it start right back up or do you have to wait for it to cool off?
Two easy things to do
First when it start to act up take the gas cap off and see if it recovers. If it does then gas cap vent is clogged.
Second as soon as it dies pull the plug and check for spark.
When I say as soon as it dies I don't mean go look for your tools after it shuts off.
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Fired up the mower and finished mowing what was left, about 20 minutes worth of mowing and as I finished the last pass it started acting up again. I worked the choke halfway up to keep it running, killed the blades and pulled the gas cap. After about 45-60 seconds it returned to normal. So I pulled back out and ran down the driveway with the cap just sitting on the top of tank and after about 3-4 minutes of blowing off edges of drive it started again. Killed the blades, work the choke about half out and after 45-60 seconds it started running normal, repeated the same process 4 times, same result. It will start back up but I have to choke it to get her to fire. I'm thinking the points. I'm sure it has spark because it will fire and start, just not running normal. Although she acts like the fuel supply is barely enough to run when it does act up. I pulled the fuel line at the carb and cranked it up and fuel came out at a pretty good rate, however I might need to check this at time of issue. Points act up like this???
Pulled the cover and looked at the coil. It was super dirty, so I got everything cleaned up good an put it back together. It cranked right up and ran like a champ for the first hour and then started acting up again. If I turn off the blades and work the choke it will come out of it and return to normal idle and could go back to mowing but it did it 4-5 times before I finished mowing. It will start back up if I shut it off. Any ideas????
There are no points on your engine and it is no an electrical problem. If this came into the shop I would be removing the carb, ultrasonically clean it, replace the float needle and seat, and reassemble.
I agree w/ Rivets. Sounds like a fuel starvation problem. A good carburetor cleaning and boiling out would help. Could also be a blockage of some foreign material in the fuel line or where it enters the carburetor above the needle and seat. Even a small blockage can shut an engine down. I've seen engines idle fine for 20 minutes and no problem, but put them under a load where they need more fuel and they'll cut out, have to disengage blades and hobble back to the garage on 1/2 choke.
greynold99
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I'm having this same problem on a 1996 Cub Cadet 2135 12 hp Kohler engine and have a couple of observations and questions that I'd like to note and to ask...
1. The issue for me is associated with outside heat and subsequently the engine temperature. For example, yesterday we had our first 70 degree temp in a while and I mowed for 2 hours with only a slight sputter when climbing 10 degree incline with mower engaged. Had to disengage mower and half-choke to continue running to get to level at top of hill... once there pushed choke OFF and re-engaged mower with no further problems for remaining mowing time about half-hour. When its 85 degrees outside or hotter, engine cuts out sooner with need to choke and dis-engage mower - On hottest day, it stalled out and I couldn't get it started until it cooled down by the next day. Climbing hill isn't particularly related to issue but load on engaged mower when deck set LOW is related - cutting @height set to "4" reduces problem occurrence. Wouldn't a carb/fuel issue present itself at any time and not consistently after an hour or two mowing?
2. Why were 2 different Float Pins used in these Walbro carbs - a fatter pin made completely out of stainless steel and the other a thinner stainless steel w/rubber point at tip (this is the one I have and had to take back the original carb rebuild kit to exchange)?
3. How do you get the seat-washer part of the carb rebuild kit out of the orifice easily where the pin seats?
4. What do you mean above '... boil the carb' - All I've ever seen was to spray Gumout carb cleaner all over & inside the carb and spray with compressed air?
5. Can you describe procedure for correctly cleaning out gas tank cap vents? Do you need to run compressed air through the vent-holes that you see or do you need to soak in carb cleaner as well?
Thanks,
Greynold99
1. The issue for me is associated with outside heat and subsequently the engine temperature. For example, yesterday we had our first 70 degree temp in a while and I mowed for 2 hours with only a slight sputter when climbing 10 degree incline with mower engaged. Had to disengage mower and half-choke to continue running to get to level at top of hill... once there pushed choke OFF and re-engaged mower with no further problems for remaining mowing time about half-hour. When its 85 degrees outside or hotter, engine cuts out sooner with need to choke and dis-engage mower - On hottest day, it stalled out and I couldn't get it started until it cooled down by the next day. Climbing hill isn't particularly related to issue but load on engaged mower when deck set LOW is related - cutting @height set to "4" reduces problem occurrence. Wouldn't a carb/fuel issue present itself at any time and not consistently after an hour or two mowing?
2. Why were 2 different Float Pins used in these Walbro carbs - a fatter pin made completely out of stainless steel and the other a thinner stainless steel w/rubber point at tip (this is the one I have and had to take back the original carb rebuild kit to exchange)?
3. How do you get the seat-washer part of the carb rebuild kit out of the orifice easily where the pin seats?
4. What do you mean above '... boil the carb' - All I've ever seen was to spray Gumout carb cleaner all over & inside the carb and spray with compressed air?
5. Can you describe procedure for correctly cleaning out gas tank cap vents? Do you need to run compressed air through the vent-holes that you see or do you need to soak in carb cleaner as well?
Thanks,
Greynold99
Carbs, can do funny things. Problems occur at weird times. On really hot days, I would check your spark when unit dies and won't restart.
2. Two different float needles? The solid needle goes with the viton seat and the viton tip needle is used with a solid seat.
3. They make a special tool to remove the viton seat. If you raid your better half's crochet hooks, a #5 crochet hook works perfectly or go to the sewing shop a spend $2.00.
4. I don't boil carbs, too messy. You can get a carb cleaner at the auto parts store, which you can soak the carb in before rebuilding. Or see if you local repair shop has an ultrasonic cleaner, definitely worth the charge.
5. If the cap vents are plugged, I would just replace it.
2. Two different float needles? The solid needle goes with the viton seat and the viton tip needle is used with a solid seat.
3. They make a special tool to remove the viton seat. If you raid your better half's crochet hooks, a #5 crochet hook works perfectly or go to the sewing shop a spend $2.00.
4. I don't boil carbs, too messy. You can get a carb cleaner at the auto parts store, which you can soak the carb in before rebuilding. Or see if you local repair shop has an ultrasonic cleaner, definitely worth the charge.
5. If the cap vents are plugged, I would just replace it.
greynold99
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Thanks Rivets,
It's interesting that I've come across 3 separate posts on this forum that relate similar issues with Cub Cadet lawn tractors and like I said, I still can't account for the good hour or two of mowing that you can get before the issue presents itself. I'd thought a dirty carb would tend to sputter out on you any time but who knows what effect the added heat is contributing.
But I will try what you suggest for ultrasonic carb cleaning and carb rebuild. The carb rebuild kit that I got to replace the original one with a single, fat Float Pin looked like it had "more pieces" than what was going to fit in my carb - that's why I asked.
Last year and this year I've replaced the air cleaner, fuel filter, ignition coil, spark plug, battery (this just went dead this past Spring after 3 yrs service) - all seemed to help for awhile but the problem returned with this years mowing as the Summer heated up. I use this with a plow during the winter and didn't have any problems with 160 ft of driveway to plow - takes about an hour and half with ft and half of snow to push back for the next dump.
One last question... I don't suspect any thing's wrong with the fuel pump, but I wondered why they don't make a fuel-pump rebuilt kit instead of selling you a new one @$50.00? Don't the Cub fuel pumps have diaphragms or are they strictly mechanical drive fuel delivery systems? I've never had mine off to look at, but it appears easy to get to on the opposite side of the engine from the carb-side.
Thanks,
greynold99
It's interesting that I've come across 3 separate posts on this forum that relate similar issues with Cub Cadet lawn tractors and like I said, I still can't account for the good hour or two of mowing that you can get before the issue presents itself. I'd thought a dirty carb would tend to sputter out on you any time but who knows what effect the added heat is contributing.
But I will try what you suggest for ultrasonic carb cleaning and carb rebuild. The carb rebuild kit that I got to replace the original one with a single, fat Float Pin looked like it had "more pieces" than what was going to fit in my carb - that's why I asked.
Last year and this year I've replaced the air cleaner, fuel filter, ignition coil, spark plug, battery (this just went dead this past Spring after 3 yrs service) - all seemed to help for awhile but the problem returned with this years mowing as the Summer heated up. I use this with a plow during the winter and didn't have any problems with 160 ft of driveway to plow - takes about an hour and half with ft and half of snow to push back for the next dump.
One last question... I don't suspect any thing's wrong with the fuel pump, but I wondered why they don't make a fuel-pump rebuilt kit instead of selling you a new one @$50.00? Don't the Cub fuel pumps have diaphragms or are they strictly mechanical drive fuel delivery systems? I've never had mine off to look at, but it appears easy to get to on the opposite side of the engine from the carb-side.
Thanks,
greynold99
The old metal fuel pumps, which were rebuildable, have gone away in this disposable society. When purchasing a new one I always search other companies as most are the same. The cheapest I have found lately is Briggs.
Also a thought, have you checked the pulse line to the pump? It may have have a very small crack, which will open as it gets warm.
Also a thought, have you checked the pulse line to the pump? It may have have a very small crack, which will open as it gets warm.